spacer plate was more for attaching with 3 bolts instead of two but as some have done you can use 2x2 square and weld it to the hitch bar
all depends on what you want yours to be!
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| Front tow points that are stronger than the Libby! http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=59&t=9316 |
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| Author: | Cobalt-60 [ Tue Jun 16, 2009 3:33 pm ] |
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Prospect62 wrote: Also, can someone clarify what type of replacement rivets I should get to reattach my front bumper?
I know I wrote a post on this at some point but I will be darned if I can find it. Though this page deals with WJ Grand Cherokee grills and fascia the plastic pop rivets are the same as for the KJ: http://www.wjjeeps.com/grilles/grillesrem.htm#RIVETSET |
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| Author: | Prospect62 [ Wed Jun 17, 2009 12:43 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Thanks guys. |
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| Author: | tigersleafs39 [ Mon Jul 06, 2009 12:59 pm ] |
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KJ kyle wrote: BTW i did fit these on a 06 bumper if anyone is interested.
Pictures of these on a 2005+? Sorry about pulling up an older thread. |
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| Author: | AltE [ Thu Jul 09, 2009 10:14 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Plates |
I have the plates JeepinJarhead used to mount his receiver if anyone is interested. Mike made a couple extra, which I planned to use until I went for a new bumper. Cover shipping and they are yours... |
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| Author: | kayadog [ Thu Aug 06, 2009 4:06 pm ] |
| Post subject: | class II drop hitch strong enough? |
Just a quick question before I buy. The strongest Class II drop hitches I can find are 3,500lb. Is this too weak, or is that rating only because class II hitches only rate that much? The class III hitches I see rate for 5000 or even 7500 lbs. |
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| Author: | Prospect62 [ Fri Aug 07, 2009 12:34 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: class II drop hitch strong enough? |
kayadog wrote: Just a quick question before I buy. The strongest Class II drop hitches I can find are 3,500lb. Is this too weak, or is that rating only because class II hitches only rate that much? The class III hitches I see rate for 5000 or even 7500 lbs.
Yeah I don't think you'll find any Class II draw bars rated for more than 3500 lbs. This is what I used... http://store.uhaul.com/Hitch_balls__mou ... all_Mounts You can use a Class III drawbar if you want. Nothing that says you can't. Just more gurth to it and probably harder to fit. I guess that's a funny thing about this mod...while I'm sure the drawbars will hold up just fine, people have 3500 lb rated draw bars and 10,000 lb rated D-rings. Kinda funny. Anyway, good luck doing the mod. It's probably one of the coolest and most useful things I've done to this particular Jeep yet. |
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| Author: | JeepinJarhead03 [ Thu Aug 13, 2009 12:05 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
well the 3500 is a rating of a certain stress, being downward weight on the tongue when mounted in a hitch pulling as straight out on it as possible, even with the drop in the bar, it's as strong as the headplate welds, and the bolts/steel you used to mount it which generally speaking makes it stronger than what it's mounted to, which means be careful, but not paranoid, if something breaks under a straight pull it will probably not be any of the items you installed, it will probably be the front support |
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| Author: | kayadog [ Wed Aug 26, 2009 3:07 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
Finally put these on my 05 Sport. Very simple. 3 1/4 drop hitch came out right in the middle of the factory tow hook cut outs. I didn't need the steel stock spacer, just 2 washers and cut the holes a few centimeters higher. 3 washers would have been better but I bought 2" long bolts and couldn't fit the 3rd. Bumper and grill come off really easy. drop hitch from uhaul.com $20 each 6500lb galvinaized anchor shackles $10 each from marine supply store grade 8 zinc nuts and bolts/washers from Home Depot $7 |
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| Author: | STINGN [ Wed Aug 26, 2009 11:31 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
ok, now if i understand correctly, i need to use the already made hole and drill another hole in the hitch so i can put nuts and bolts through it and then i would have the tow points (i got the shackles) im really confused cause some people added steel plates, yada yada, so i want the bare bones, am i in the ball park haha? |
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| Author: | kayadog [ Thu Aug 27, 2009 8:45 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
Yes, you need to drill a second hole in the shaft of the drop hitch, using the existing pin hole as the first. You probably need a drill press since its an inch and a 1/4 solid steel. I used a neighbors. I think the steel plate is only needed on pre 05's to drop the hitch so it goes out the hole in the bumper. On my 05 I only used 2 washers and cut the tow hook cut-outs a hair higher. |
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| Author: | JeepinJarhead03 [ Tue Sep 01, 2009 3:39 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
you'll need to test fit (unless an 05+ can elaborate) but i basically had to mount mine with the headplate of the insert just about flush with the chassis section to get the fascia to fit back without major hacking in otherwords the elbow of the hitch portion stuck out too far when attempting to use the existing hole in the hitch you very well may find this to not be the case so test fit atleast once, if you're able to get some holes paired up on the bottom of the fascia where the "road squeegie" is, then you're absoltely good, if it's close to pairing, you're still good, if it's way off, by a foot, the head plates stickin out too far and you need to reevaluate your hitch positions |
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| Author: | Prospect62 [ Thu Oct 01, 2009 10:12 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
STINGN wrote: ok, now if i understand correctly, i need to use the already made hole and drill another hole in the hitch so i can put nuts and bolts through it and then i would have the tow points (i got the shackles) im really confused cause some people added steel plates, yada yada, so i want the bare bones, am i in the ball park haha?
I brought my drawbars to my local machine shop to drill the second hole, because without a drill press it can be a long, tedious and dangerous process. You want your two holes 2 1/4" apart, center of hole to center of hole. I have an 02, and I didn't use the "steel spacer plate" that others have suggested. Because of that, I had to take the sawzall to my bumper holes to open them up a bit and putting the bumper back on was a tight fit, but it worked. So you don't NEED the spacer plate, it just makes it easier. I did throw some washers in IIRC. Pick some up when you buy the hardware. |
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| Author: | JeepinJarhead03 [ Sun Oct 11, 2009 4:18 am ] |
| Post subject: | |
spacer plate was more for attaching with 3 bolts instead of two but as some have done you can use 2x2 square and weld it to the hitch bar all depends on what you want yours to be!
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| Author: | mochodurazo [ Wed Nov 25, 2009 5:27 pm ] |
| Post subject: | |
i been reading alot time after time this thread and other related. finally, i went to autozone and look what i got.. 
2 class II 1 1/4, with 2.5 drop, im geting all material and tool together. i going to weld it to, and do a 1 solid piece like the author of the thread. i'll post some pics of the entire process 
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| Author: | 05liberty [ Sat Feb 20, 2010 9:17 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Front tow points that are stronger than the Libby! |
Well I did mine this weekend .. worst part was cutting the bumper |
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| Author: | GeoJeeper [ Mon Feb 22, 2010 12:18 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Front tow points that are stronger than the Libby! |
Thanks for the write up Gris. I got around to mounting my points in the fall. And finally got around to taking pictures. Turned out very well I think. I got tired of trying to find 3 1/2" drops. So I went ahead and got the 2 1/2". I just had to trim the bumper a little bit. It's not anything that can be seen without getting on your knees and looking up at. So I'm very pleased. And they seem to be incredibly solid.   
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| Author: | JeepinJarhead03 [ Mon Feb 22, 2010 2:50 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Front tow points that are stronger than the Libby! |
looks good geo! that's pretty much the exact amount of trimming i had to do for my variant |
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| Author: | dgeist [ Sun Feb 28, 2010 5:12 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Front tow points that are stronger than the Libby! |
05liberty wrote: Well I did mine this weekend .. worst part was cutting the bumper I have an '05 limited and was wondering... did you need to trim anything other than the tow-hook knock-outs (as seen in the pictures). I know the trim beneath the main bumper is different, so I don't want to assume a hitch will go in there without something else being trimmed. Dan |
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| Author: | 05liberty [ Tue Mar 02, 2010 7:55 pm ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Front tow points that are stronger than the Libby! |
dgeist, I had to trim to the side and below of the knockouts too. quite a bit ...Ill try to get a couple photos this week ! I drilled my first hole just past the weld for the "drop" I think it has been said that you can use the hole that comes in the bar ... It didnt line up for me I wonder if the Renny style bumper sticks out futher than the Limited .. Oh and i used 2 1/4 " drop ... one more thing ! you wont need to drill any rivits ! Hope this helps I think if you look at my photos you can figure out where you have to cut & trim ! As far as under , if you mean the frame part its the same on all Libbys just the bumper cap (pretty parts) is different . You cant see in the photos but on mine i have a 1/2" plate in the frame rail with the nuts welded to it .. a little insurance i feel ! Dave |
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| Author: | kayadog [ Tue Jun 01, 2010 10:51 am ] |
| Post subject: | Re: Front tow points that are stronger than the Libby! |
Finally got to use my front shackles this weekend. An AWD Lexus SUV was stuck to its axles in deep sand on a steep dune on the back side Nauset Beach in Cape Cod. I think the Lexus hadn't tuned off its traction control and combined with its lack of ground clearance and driver inexperience it didn't stand a chance. It was blocking the only beach access and there was no way around it so 4x4's quickly began to line up behind me (I was next in line) since it was Memorial Day. If I hadn't had front tow points it would have been a problem. I simply put a strap on the Lexus tow loop and easily pulled it out of the ruts and onto a turn out so the other trucks could go past. The shackles worked flawlessly, and it was a hard pull as the Lexus was badly stuck. My Kj walked right up the dune without spinning a tire. |
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