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60,000mi. service stuff.....
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Author:  SavageSS27 [ Tue Feb 07, 2006 8:36 pm ]
Post subject:  60,000mi. service stuff.....
Just went over 60k on the odo., what exactly should i do??? air filter? belts? diff. fluid? trans fluid? spark plugs are new and already swapped to mobil full syn oil and a mobil filter.

Thanks for the info...
-Savage-
Author:  SavageSS27 [ Wed Feb 08, 2006 12:04 am ]
Post subject: 
crud...sorry, didn't ralize until now what forum i posted this in....please feel free to move it to general discussion or whatever fits best...thanks and sorry
Author:  skrracing [ Wed Feb 08, 2006 12:31 am ]
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Man you better catch up...UI have that many miles on my 04... Just do the regular service and get that rig out on the trails. later...clint
Author:  Jeepjeepster [ Sat Feb 11, 2006 8:06 pm ]
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Ive just got 18k on my 2004, its 2 years old and 1 month old.
Author:  2003KJ [ Sun Feb 12, 2006 11:23 am ]
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I've always done a tune up every 30K. As a matter of fact, I hit 30,200 yesterday and did a tune up on it for the 1st time. New plugs all around, and a new air filter, and a broken dipstick...long story. I usually replace the air filter every 6-8 thousand anyways, due to the fact my commute takes me through alot of construction areas that are always blowing dust around. About 2K ago I did the front and rear diffs....got those out of the way for now, and I plan to switch to Mobil 1 10W30 on my next change.

As far as you go, I really wouldn't replace the belt unless its showing signs of weakening. Its probably going to be cracked a bit, but they all do as rubber expands and contracts. If you can see the threads in the belt, then its probably time to replace it.

I'd also look into maybe flushing out the tranny. Nothin like a $3,000 important component take a crap on you.

If you haven't done the diffs. yet I definately would. Mine looked pretty sorry when I changed it not too long ago...and I don't do any hardcore wheelin either.
Author:  TnRebel [ Sun Feb 12, 2006 12:53 pm ]
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I must be the oddball then I have 8k on my 06 renagade 4x4 :oops: and have done a tune up and two oil changes.
Author:  SavageSS27 [ Sun Feb 12, 2006 10:08 pm ]
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OK, so what does a tune-up entail, and is it something i can do myself with some basic tools? Already put new plugs in it not too long ago...tranny just got rebuilt under warranty after chewing up one of the valves...so that shouldn't be an issue...About the diffs, what kind of oil should i be putting in there (definately want to go syn.) and since i'm open on both ends i don't need friction modifier correct?

Thanks again,
-Savage-
Author:  Jeepjeepster [ Sun Feb 12, 2006 10:35 pm ]
Post subject: 
SavageSS27 wrote:
OK, so what does a tune-up entail, and is it something i can do myself with some basic tools? Already put new plugs in it not too long ago...tranny just got rebuilt under warranty after chewing up one of the valves...so that shouldn't be an issue...About the diffs, what kind of oil should i be putting in there (definately want to go syn.) and since i'm open on both ends i don't need friction modifier correct?

Thanks again,
-Savage-


Correct, no Friction modifier. I went with 75w-140 castrol syn, I like this oil. I would use the 75-140 since you go of roading. Change out the oil in the tcase, check the air filter and call it a day.
Author:  2003KJ [ Sun Feb 12, 2006 10:41 pm ]
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On the KJ, a tune up really consists of just Plugs, which you've covered, and an air filter. The coil packs should last a long time.

As far as the diffs, go, it's really simple. I went with the stuff what was recommended in the book, and it calls for synthetic in the front. Since synthetic fluid was expensive as crap, even with my discount, I only put it in the front b/c it was required, and regular in the back. And since you are open in the front and back, yes you are correct in that you DO NOT need a friction modifier to be mixxed in. That would only be necessary if you had a locker.

A quick check of the FSM for 2003 shows that the front axle holds 2.6 Pints, and the rear holds 4.4 Pints. But I just picked up a few bottles to keep as spare over time incase something happens...so I just filled them both up till they started running back out again, let them drip a little, and slapped the plug or drain plug back on...depending on whicih axle I was doing.

If you want a little more info on how to change it out, here's a brief write up I did about a day or two after I changed mine. clicky here
Author:  SavageSS27 [ Sun Feb 12, 2006 11:28 pm ]
Post subject: 
Why 75W140 as opposed to the 75W90??? and would i use the 140 in both diffs?

Also, does anyone know if there's a write up on changing the t-case fluid?
Author:  sleeve84028 [ Fri Feb 24, 2006 10:05 am ]
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Typical transfercase has 2 plugs on the rear face of the unit:

You'll need a 3/8" ratchet without any sockets. A short extension if you would like can be used, but you just need the head of the extension to remove the plugs.

1) Get your vehicle up high enough in the air that you can work comfortably. Use Jackstands or ramps for safety
2) Take the ratchet and remove the TOP plug. This is the fill / check plug. You'll want to make sure you can get this plug out before removing the drain plug. You can also check the level of the T-case fluid at this time. Should be at or near the opening.
3) With the top plug out, remove the BOTTOM plug to drain out the fluid.
4) Once the case is empty, wipe off the plug and reinstall
5) You will need some platic tubing or a vacuum pump to fill the case. If you use the tube, just stick it in the fill hole and stand next to the vehicle while you add fluid.


The case is full when fluid is right below the fill plug opening. I am pretty sure you'll need Mopar ATF to fill it, but verify in your Owners manual to be safe.
Author:  SavageSS27 [ Fri Feb 24, 2006 5:22 pm ]
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ok, so it's just about exatcly the same as the SOP on the front diff...thanks for the info, ATF is first on the list after i get my next paycheck...
Author:  Video Guy [ Fri Jun 09, 2006 9:33 am ]
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Made the mistake of having Tires Plus flush and fill my auto. transmission, and the KJ had a fit. Hard shudder when downshifting from 3rd gear to 2nd. After having the dealership check it out, they told me that Tires Plus didn't use the right fluid. I caught the problem in time to save the transmission from blown-out seals. I was PISSED! I had no problem getting Tires Plus to refund my money though. I'd go there for tires, but nothing else. They just don't know KJ trannies!
Author:  SavageSS27 [ Fri Jun 09, 2006 2:47 pm ]
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yeah, you HAVE to make sure it's ATF+4 or else the tranny will not like you...lol Unfortunately my trans ate a valve, so i had the whole thing rebuilt under warranty for $100.00 (that's the deductable).
Author:  MoladoGuy [ Fri Jun 09, 2006 9:12 pm ]
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SavageSS27 wrote:
yeah, you HAVE to make sure it's ATF+4 or else the tranny will not like you


What happens if the shop doesn't use ATF+4 and a problem occurs a few months later?? For instance, I had my local shop change the tranny fluid, immediatley I had a shifting problem. They corrected the issue (saying they didn't put enough in) and then everything was fine and dandy. Recently I have been getting a slight slip feeling when the KJ shifts gears, but not enough for me to cause for alarm (yet). I was thinking to start investigating this issue, and maybe I should start with looking at exactly what they used for my fluid.

So, if they gave me something different, do I have a complaint? or was it me that should have paid attention?
Author:  CaKJFreedom [ Sat Jun 10, 2006 6:19 am ]
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It's their job to make sure the right fluids go in. You don't have to tell them the oil weight and the same should go for the atf fluid. Can you check on the paperwork you got when you picked it up?
Author:  Wade [ Fri Apr 06, 2007 6:21 pm ]
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If you have the Dealer do the "flushes" here's a breakdown;

Brake flush - 89.95 (19.95 for fluid)
Induction flush - 119.95 (49.95 for the service kit PN BG2902C))
Power steering flush - 92.95 (50.95 for the service kit PN BG6700C)
Rear Diff flush - 124.95 (16.80 for 1 qty BG328 LS11 and 22.05 for 3 qty 752 ULT GRD fluid)
Front Diff flush - 108.15 (22.05 for 3 qty 752 ULT GRD fluid)
Injection system clean - 70.00 (31.95 for the service kit PN BGSK227C)
Author:  rhinocharg [ Sun Mar 07, 2010 10:42 pm ]
Post subject:  Re: 60,000mi. service stuff.....
I too am at the 60,000 mi point. We inherited our 2005 Liberty from my in-laws. I'm not confident any of the fluids were ever done, other than the oil of course. So I want to do: spark plugs, both diffs, tranny, tranny filter, and transfer case.

I am happy with NGKs, I guess the iridium IX is what these call for unless anyone disagrees?

I read that the front diff takes synthetic but my manual does not say so, it just says 80w-90. Should I run synthetic just to be safe?
The rear says it needs synthetic with the Friction Modifier. Any recommendations on the Friction Modifier? Will Trans X work?

I know to use ATF+4 for the transfer case and the tranny, I also thought I saw somewhere that there were two filters for the auto, is that right?

I'm going to try to do all this stuff over the next few weeks. I'm getting about 20mpg out if it right now, so if the plugs look pretty good, should I leave them?

I've been searching a lot but I thought I'd just revive this thread to get any more information from anyone.
Thanks
Author:  dirt pig [ Mon May 24, 2010 8:44 am ]
Post subject:  Re: 60,000mi. service stuff.....
Iridium Plugs are better than the recommended Platinum. Cost more though!

The Auto trans has 2 oil filters and can be a very messy job. No drain plug! You just have to crack the bottom pan and catch the 6 litres of oil which will try and leak all over the place.
One filter looks like a small conventional oil filter (canister type) and the other is a long plate like filter.
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