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 Post subject: 4.0 Crank pulley trouble
PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 9:48 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jul 27, 2007 4:44 pm
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Location: Fort Wayne, IN
My son's '96 Cherokee lost the serpentine belt today. Investigation revealed that the outer ring on the crank pulley is loose and had worked forward 1/4". Can this pulley be replaced w/o removing the radiator? I've never seen a crank pulley do this before.
Thanks for any response!! :?:


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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 10:08 pm 
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Location: Big Bear & Lancaster, Ca.
Looking at mine there is enough room to get the bolt out but if it requires a pulley puller I don't think you can do it w/out removing the shroud and radiator. If I find more info I will post.

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 19, 2007 10:16 pm 
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Location: Big Bear & Lancaster, Ca.
http://www.naxja.org/forum/showthread.p ... aft+pulley

:End of the MYSTERY SQUEAL ~ Sept. 11, 2007

Well I finally fixed the "Mystery Squeal" and what I did and learned along the way.

Harmonic Balancer went out which isn't all that bad.

BUT, when I want to install the new one using the bolt that screws into the Crank Shaft, the few threads that were left stripped out. Seems I wasn't the first to try to install it using the factory bolt and only a few threads were left and they didn't have the strength to hold, so out they came.

What I ended up doing to get the wife's Cherokee back on the road;
1) Buy a "bottom tap" and clean out the bad threads and add what I could to the bottom of the hole for a TOTAL of 4 THREADS left.
2) Buy a "Grade 8 Alloy Steel Hex Head Cap Screw Zinc Yellow Plated, 1/2"-20 Thread, 5-1/2" L, Fully Threaded" from McMaster-Carr ( http://www.mcmaster.com ). They may not have everything, but they do have 450,000 of the most common items in stock.
3) "J.B. WELD" the bolt in, let it cure for a day, cut off the head with an angle grinder (if you don't have one, you're missing out on a lot of fun).
4) Get my new factory Harmonic Balancer's "nose" shortened 20/1000th's so it will fit the '89 without having to pull the timing cover and remove the "oil slinger" that isn't used on newer engines and gently smooth the front of the keyway.
5) Install balancer using factory spacer washer plus a couple extra, well greased washers, all snugged down with a Grade 8 nut. Remove nut and extra washers, clean grease off and re-install nut to proper torque. I haven't yet decided how short to cut the bolt, now it sticks out about 4 inches and will be needed if I ever need to remove the balancer again. I run the factory splash guard and skid so nothing "should" come up and cause problems.

Some things I learned;
1) Before you start do your research here on and actually READ what others have done.
2) It's MUCH easier with the bumper removed.
3) Use a "Harmonic Balancer INSTALLER", they thread all the way into the crank BEFORE they pull the balancer down. If you don't do the work your self, be sure the mechanic uses the installer. The engine re-builder, before I owned the car, stripped out the first half of the threads.
4) There are many DIFFERENT things that can "Squeal" under the hood. I found mine thanks to several members and changing way more parts than needed, but I sure learned a lot!"

Quote from NAXJA thread....
Hope that helps some.

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99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal


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