2000 XJ (work in progress)

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Fri Feb 03, 2012 2:36 am

The 4 speed automatic AW4 transmission in these jeeps are very strong and durable. Other than a 4X4 truck, I can’t think of a better utilitarian vehicle than the XJ for my needs.

I want to do what I can to keep the transmission in the best working condition. We know that transmission fluid is the life-blood to any transmission. Besides switching over to Amsoil ATF, I decided to go one step further by adding an aftermarket transmission filter. After much research, I decided to go with the Magnefine filter.

Magnefine Transmission Filter
http://www.magnefinefilters.com
Fitting: 3/8”
Cost: $16.00

Features:
-Dual filtration - Magnet and filter media filters down to 3 micron and removes 99% of all wear metal contaminants.
-Full flow filter (Does not restrict flow and contains a built-in bypass system in case filter becomes clogged)
-Prolongs life of fluid
-Prolongs life of transmission
-Reduces the need to drop the pan to change OE filter.

Installation:
-On a used trany, the manufacture recommends installing the filter on the return cooler line.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Fri Feb 03, 2012 3:21 am

I have a Dynomax catback exhaust waiting to be installed. I hate doing things twice, so I’ve been waiting to replace the stock catalytic converter and have everything installed at once. Before choosing a converter, I had to consider that my XJ has the California emissions. A proper converter will ensure that the Jeep will run correctly and wont throw a code.

Much to my surprise, I don’t have an 02 sensor on or near my converter. It appears that all 2000 and 2001 Cali emission models stopped requiring the 02 sensor on the converter. I thought this was really strange since a 1999 non-California emissions has the 02 sensor on the converter. Instead, my 2000 XJ has two sensors on the first two cats near the exhaust manifold.

After some research, I decided to go with Thunderbolt’s high flow converter. It comes with a ceramic brick with 400 holes per square inch. We don’t have emissions or vehicle inspections in New Mexico, but this converter is OBDII EPA legal and designed for engines up to the 5.9L / 6000 lbs.

Length - 11"
Body - 4" Round
Inlet - 2.50"
Outlet - 2.50"
Brick Type - Ceramic

http://performance-curve.com/
Thunderbolt High Flow Catalytic Converter
Part # 410250
Retail: $73.90
Sale Price: $38.95

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Fri Feb 03, 2012 4:18 am

After installing the Fumoto drain valve on my Dodge diesel (14 quart system), I wanted one for my other vehicles. They are simple to use, eliminate messes, and reduces the amount of time to change oil. I bought the valves with the nipples so I can attach a hose. The adjustable valve and hose makes it easy to fill bottles of any size. In all honesty, the valve will probably pay for itself with all the cat litter and paper towels that you would use to clean up your oil mess. :ROTFL:

F101N: Nipple Type Oil Drain
$26.95

5/8" Safety Clip
$1.00

3/8" ID x 3FT Clear Vinyl Tubing
$3.00

ABQKJ · **Posted:** Fri Feb 03, 2012 11:09 pm

dieselenthusiast wrote:

....cat litter and paper towels that you would use to clean up your oil mess

I use more than my fair share of cat litter. I suppose I need to add one of these to the wish list.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Sat Feb 04, 2012 12:23 am

ABQKJ wrote:

dieselenthusiast wrote:

....cat litter and paper towels that you would use to clean up your oil mess

I use more than my fair share of cat litter. I suppose I need to add one of these to the wish list.

yep

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Sat Feb 04, 2012 12:29 am

Distilled water, Amsoil Engine Coolant, and Amsoil Coolant Boost will be going in the new cooling system.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Thu Feb 16, 2012 12:08 am

The 4" lift and built-in bumper hitch receiver has created a need for a longer drop down ball mount. I found a really good deal on a Reese 11" inch drop with a 5,000lb rating.

Reese 2” chrome ball
1” shank diameter and 2” shank length
Rated for 6,000 lbs tow capacity.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Mon Feb 20, 2012 9:05 pm

dieselenthusiast wrote:

Electrical Upgrade

I’m going to change out my electrical wiring for 1AWG, part # 2XJ-242-ANL-150(4) - which is the full kit and fuse setup. Eventually, I will upgrade to the Durango/Dakota/WJ/ZJ V8 upgrade (136A) Alternator.
Here’s the final product before it goes on the Jeep.

2XJ-242-ANL-150 (1 AWG, 150A fuse kit)
Cost: $207.00

CLAMP-B1 (Marine Brass Battery Clamps)
Cost: $7.50

“All the wiring is 1AWG welding cable with fine strands for flexibility and increased current-carrying capacity. All connections are pressure-crimped, packed with corrosion inhibitor, and sealed twice - first with vinyl terminal tape, then with polyolefin heat shrink tubing. This makes a connection that should never be contaminated or work loose over the life of the vehicle.”

Technical: http://www.kelleyswip.com/electric.html
Pricing: http://www.kelleyswip.com/price.html

The parts have arrived. I'm now waiting for the headlamps, bulbs, and wiring harness. It’s easier to get everything installed at one time, especially when the radiator is out.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Mon Feb 27, 2012 9:09 pm

We were up on the mountain yesterday when the front passenger window dropped. I thought about buying the window regulator repair kit from Steiger, but for a few bucks more, I could order a new regulator and motor from eBay for $59.95 and free shipping.

97-01 Jeep Cherokee Power Window Regulator w/Motor Front RH Passenger Side

Specifications:
RH (Passenger Side) Front Door
Upgrade Design (The regulator has been redesigned to reduce binding)
OE replacement (No modification required)
Replaces dealer part numbers 55154958AH, 55154958AI

For those who are just interested in the window regulator repair kit, click on the link below:
http://www.steigerperformance.com/products/sp12001.html

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Thu Mar 01, 2012 10:58 pm

The new window regulator/motor kit is now installed and works good! While the price was good, I went ahead and ordered one for the driver’s side. I wont replace it until it needs to be replaced, but at least I have the part on hand.

97-01 Jeep Cherokee Power Window Regulator w/Motor, Front LH Driver Side

Specifications:
LH (Driver Side) Front Door
Upgrade Design (The regulator has been redesigned to reduce binding)
OE replacement (No modification required)
Replaces dealer part numbers 55154959AH

CarNutCertifies · **Posted:** Fri Mar 02, 2012 8:39 pm

Good job. new stuff is always so much fun!

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Sat Mar 03, 2012 3:07 am

CarNutCertifies wrote:

Good job.

Thanks!

CarNutCertifies wrote:

new stuff is always so much fun!

I thoroughly enjoy replacement parts as much as I enjoy modification/performance parts, therefore I find a large degree of pleasure and satisfaction in knowing that our vehicles are highly reliable, safe, and sufficient for our needs. A vehicle is an investment, so I try to be practical in my decision making and spending. Sometimes I get it right, and sometimes I don’t. Funding these projects would not be possible if it wasn’t for my wife’s support. She works hard to financially contribute to all our projects and is part of the decision making.

DirtyKK · **Posted:** Mon Mar 05, 2012 12:38 am

thanks for the link to the wiring upgrade. he has a list of everything with correct lengths and everything. this saves me the trouble from removing them all first to find out what lengths i need. now i can make them and replace them with minimal down time.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Mon Mar 05, 2012 12:54 am

DirtyKK wrote:

thanks for the link to the wiring upgrade. he has a list of everything with correct lengths and everything. this saves me the trouble from removing them all first to find out what lengths i need. now i can make them and replace them with minimal down time.

You’re most welcome! That’s why I try to post pics, links, and other data. I figure if it’s relevant to me, it might be relevant for someone else.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Tue Mar 06, 2012 12:07 am

I’ve been researching headers for the past year or so. My 2000 XJ came with the OE cast iron exhaust manifold, which are actually very durable. I’m fairly confident that I can get many more miles out of my factory manifold; however, I would like to increase the efficiency of the exhaust flow. Theoretically, a high flow header should decrease engine temps, decrease under hood temps, increase horsepower, and increase fuel economy. There are several aftermarket companies who manufacture headers for the 4.0L, but I have narrowed my choice to one manufacturer.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Sat Mar 10, 2012 1:27 am

dieselenthusiast wrote:

I'm guessing that I lost somewhere between 3/4" inch to 1" inch in the rear and it doesn't appear that I lost anything in the front. I plan to order the JKS greasable shackles which should provide me with an additional 1" inch of lift in the rear. Here's where she sets right now.

After several months of towing and flexing the Jeep, there hasn’t been anymore settling. So I figured it was time to order the shackles.

JKS shackles
* Specifically designed for the Cherokee.
* Specifically designed to optimize rear suspension travel (The extended length and boomerang design allows full compression and extension of the leaf springs)
* Increases rear ride height by approximately 1” inch
* Rigid one-piece construction prevents premature bushing fatigue, a common problem on Jeep Cherokees with inferior shackle designs.
* Greasable Dura-Thane™ bushings and hardware are included for the chassis end of each XJ Shackle for smooth, quiet operation and easy lubrication.
* A durable powdercoat finish is applied for corrosion resistance.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Mon Mar 19, 2012 6:38 pm

Overtime, there can be a lot of gunk buildup in the cooling system. There are many factors that can contribute to gunk buildup, but I’ll save that for another discussion. Since I’m rather proactive about maintenance, I wanted to install a coolant by-pass filter before installing the new radiator.

There are several universal coolant filter heads to choose from with various inlet/outlet configurations and bracket options. Unsure where I will choose as my final mounting location, I went ahead and decided to go with the WIX filter head and a cheap WIX coolant filter. You get what you pay for, and WIX is not the most transparent company. I asked WIX what their micron rating was, and they said, “27 micron.” I’m fairly sure that their filter isn’t rated at 27um (absolute). I then asked WIX what their coolant filter flowed (gallons per minute) and they said, “flow varies, the filter is designed to only accept about 10% of the fluid.” I find it frustrating when a company doesn’t make their data known and they can‘t answer specific questions.

The Baldwin coolant filter B5134 is rated at 45um absolute at 100% efficiency and 20um absolute at 50% efficiency. So when WIX says that their filter is rated at 27 micron, I really wanted to know at what efficiency. :banghead:

Unfortunately, WIX didn’t have an answer for me. Anyway, I decided to go with the WIX filter for test fitting purposes and to do an initial cleanup. I’ll eventually replace the WIX with a Donaldson ECF4085 coolant filter that is rated at 14um absolute. The Donaldson filter media is top quality and interval changes are rated at 150,000 miles, 4,000 hours, or 1 year; whichever comes first.

WIX Filter Head, Part# 33109
Spin-On Conversion Kit
Universal Mounting Base
11/16-16 Threaded Base Stud
3/8 NPT fittings

WIX/NAPA Coolant Filter, Part# 24070
Rated at 27 micron (efficiency is unknown)

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Sat Mar 24, 2012 2:03 am

dieselenthusiast wrote:

I’ve been researching headers for the past year or so. My 2000 XJ came with the OE cast iron exhaust manifold, which are actually very durable. I’m fairly confident that I can get many more miles out of my factory manifold; however, I would like to increase the efficiency of the exhaust flow. Theoretically, a high flow header should decrease engine temps, decrease under hood temps, increase horsepower, and increase fuel economy. There are several aftermarket companies who manufacture headers for the 4.0L, but I have narrowed my choice to one manufacturer.

The stainless steel Borla Headers came in.

These aren't my photos, but I know a guy who put these headers on his 2000 XJ and took these pictures. Here's what they look like compared to the OE cast iron manifold. As you can see, there is a vast improvement over the stock headers.

dieselenthusiast · **Posted:** Wed Mar 28, 2012 2:21 am

I’ve been looking at new pre-catalytic converters. There’s one company that stands out above the rest. Catco makes stainless steel converters that flow better than the OE converters. According to Cato, “The reason is because the 2200 series uses a metallic substrate as opposed to the ceramic type used in the OEM on your vehicle. The wall thickness is thinner on the metallic 2200 converter then on the OEM converter. This thickness affects how the exhaust gas flows through the converter. Also the 2200 uses a 200 cells per square inch substrate as opposed to the 400 cell used in the OEM cat. Again this would cause the exhaust gas to flow faster through the 2200 cat.”

My XJ has nearly 180,000 miles on it and the factory exhaust is 10 years old. I wonder what the condition of my OE cats are? I’ve heard that a clogged cat can be restrictive enough to produce enough heat to cause vapor lock and throw cylinder miss-fire codes. I really don’t have a clue. I know more about diesel engines than I do gasoline engines. Due to soot and unburned diesel fuel, a diesel engine can most certainly clog a cat. I don’t know how susceptible a gasoline engine is to clogging a cat?

CarNutCertifies · **Posted:** Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:20 pm

Any updates?

2000 XJ (work in progress)

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