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 Post subject: Re: 2000 XJ (work in progress)
PostPosted: Tue Apr 03, 2012 11:48 pm 
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CarNutCertifies wrote:
Any updates?

The injectors came in yesterday. I went with some used Chrysler 007 injectors from the 3.3L Dodge/Chrysler mini-vans. They are newer 4-port (lower mileage) injectors that replaced the 784’s after 2001. They flow the same fuel per minute as the stock Cherokee injectors. I paid $70 dollars for cleaned reverse flushed injectors. They have been electronically tested two ways and have new o-rings and new micro-filters. I’m hoping that the better atomization will increase power and fuel efficiency.

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 Post subject: Re: 2000 XJ (work in progress)
PostPosted: Thu Apr 05, 2012 9:44 am 
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GL and keep us posted once you get them in. I am curious to see how well they work out. I will be using mine at times to tow things and atm i am not to sure if it has the power to do so. So after i figure out the t-case linkage problem and some suspension issues i will be working on the loss of power issues as well.

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 Post subject: Re: 2000 XJ (work in progress)
PostPosted: Sun Apr 08, 2012 9:56 pm 
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I pulled an oil sample just to see how the cold weather startups impacted the fuel dilution. I drive one mile to work, 1 mile home for lunch, 1 mile back to work, and 1 mile home to end the day every Monday - Friday. The engine doesn’t get to hit operating temperatures very often, which I know is causing fuel dilution.

These short trips are a lot of wear and tear on the engine, but that’s why I bought this Jeep. I wanted to take the wear and tear off our nicer vehicles and put the wear and tear on something that was more utilitarian and work related. And besides commuting to work every day, I use the Jeep for off-roading and towing loads of brush, firewood, etc.

Anyway, here’s my results:

Amsoil Oil Filter
Amsoil 10W30 OE oil

Oil sample duration:
5 months on lube
924 miles on lube
179,846 on engine

Iron 11
Chromium 0
Nickel 0
Aluminum 2
Copper 2
Lead 0
Tin 0
Cadmium 0
Silver 0
Vanadium 0
Silicon 26
Sodium 7
Potassium 4
Titanium 0
Molybdenum 82
Antimony 0
Manganese 0
Lithium 0
Boron 176
Magnesium 12
Calcium 1240
Barium 0
Phosphorous 703
Zinc 754

Fuel Dilution % vol 2.6 - GC
Viscosity 100*C 9.1

Oil Analyzers Recommendation: FUEL DILUTION is at a MODERATE LEVEL; FUEL DILUTION has caused viscosity to decrease slightly below grade; Abrasives (silicon/dirt) are at a MINOR LEVEL; Oil is suitable for continued use. Resample in 3,500 miles or 65 hours.

Even though my oil appears to be good for continued use, I’m going to go ahead and change it. I got 5 months of hard driving out of it, so I’m happy.

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 Post subject: Re: 2000 XJ (work in progress)
PostPosted: Tue Apr 10, 2012 12:38 am 
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CarNutCertifies wrote:
GL and keep us posted once you get them in.


I have a little bit of driving time under the new injectors to give a partial review. I replaced the OE injectors at approximately 180,000 miles. Even though there were no signs or indication that my stock injectors were bad or needed to be replaced, I felt the need to replace them due to high mileage and peace of mind.

After installation, there didn’t seem to be any noticeable difference on startup or at idle. The motor did seem to run a little smoother and quieter, especially when accelerating hard. The throttle felt a little more peppy between 25 - 45 mph speeds. When I say peppy, I mean the Jeep felt more responsive at the pedal. I’m hoping that I can squeeze an additional 1 mpg increase at cruising speeds (55 - 65 mph). So far, I’m glad that I replaced the 1 port OE injectors with a more efficient 4 port injector.

Image

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 Post subject: Re: 2000 XJ (work in progress)
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 8:28 pm 
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I’m in the market for brakes, rotors, and a brake rebuild kit, if there is such a thing. With 180,000 miles on my Jeep, I think it’s time for new brake hardware. Any ideas on pads, rotors, or brake rebuild parts?

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 Post subject: Re: 2000 XJ (work in progress)
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 8:36 pm 
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The most Ive ever done for brakes is either stock replacements or NAPAs top of the line stuff. While youre looking into it you should check into doing a disk brake swap in the rear. The Liberty rear components should fit on the XJ rear 8.25 also.


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 Post subject: Re: 2000 XJ (work in progress)
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 8:54 pm 
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DirtyKK wrote:
While youre looking into it you should check into doing a disk brake swap in the rear. The Liberty rear components should fit on the XJ rear 8.25 also.


That’s not a bad idea. What’s the difference between the ZJ and KJ discs? Are you suggesting buying them new or used? I don't know anything about brakes.

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 Post subject: Re: 2000 XJ (work in progress)
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 8:59 pm 
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dieselenthusiast wrote:
DirtyKK wrote:
While youre looking into it you should check into doing a disk brake swap in the rear. The Liberty rear components should fit on the XJ rear 8.25 also.


That’s not a bad idea. What’s the difference between the ZJ and KJ discs? Are you suggesting buying them new or used? I don't know anything about brakes.


I honestly dont know whats better or what all is involved or different. Ive just had it suggested to me from a local XJ guy....

I usually just buy that kind of stuff new though.


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 Post subject: Re: 2000 XJ (work in progress)
PostPosted: Mon May 07, 2012 9:09 pm 
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DirtyKK wrote:
I honestly dont know whats better or what all is involved or different. Ive just had it suggested to me from a local XJ guy....


My front brakes and rotors need to be changed here pretty soon, so I'll focus on those first. In the meantime, I'll do some research on the rears.

DirtyKK wrote:
I usually just buy that kind of stuff new though.


I agree, that's a much better idea.

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 Post subject: Re: Electrical Upgrade
PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 12:37 am 
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dieselenthusiast wrote:
Image
I finally got around to having the wiring upgrade installed. Overall, this kit is top quality. A few of the cables were much longer than the OE cables. I’m not sure why they were so long since the extra length certainly isn’t needed. I suppose the extra length creates more flexibility for custom routing.

Image

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 Post subject: Re: 2000 XJ (work in progress)
PostPosted: Tue May 22, 2012 11:48 am 
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I decided on my front pads, rotors and calipers.

http://www.blackmagicbrakes.com/
XJ 4WD 00-01 Front Black Magic Brake Pad, Calipers, Rotors
KIT: Jeep XJ 4WD 2000 – 2001
Cost: $290

Includes parts for both Passenger and Driver sides
•Front - Black Magic Brake Pads
•Front - Stock Replacement Premium Zinc Plated Calipers
•Front - Centric Premium Rotors

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 Post subject: Re: 2000 XJ (work in progress)
PostPosted: Tue Jun 05, 2012 11:54 pm 
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I finally made a decision on where to put the coolant filter. I narrowed it down to three different locations with all but one requiring a custom bracket. After consulting with a local mechanic, we decided to put the coolant filter down on the front frame rail which was the location that didn’t require fabricating a bracket. It’s the lowest point in the cooling system which is actually recommended by the manufacturer. I’m really happy with the install location, the ease of maintenance, and most of all, the added protection and cooling it will offer. I need to figure out a shutoff valve system so I can change the filter without losing lots of coolant. Anyway, the install will begin tomorrow as well as the radiator and triple fan kit, transmission cooler, and magnefine in-line transmission filter. 8) It will probably take a few days to complete this project since I'm not sure what extra parts we'll need and/or problems that we'll run into.

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 Post subject: Re: 2000 XJ (work in progress)
PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2012 11:53 pm 
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DAY 1

There isn’t a lot of customization involved with this install, however, there’s enough busyness going on to make us stop and think each process through. I’m a detailed oriented person, so I look at every way possible to make things better.

As you’ve seen by my previous photos, this is a well-built radiator, arguably the best quality and most efficient radiator for the Jeep Cherokee. It’s obvious that FF Dynamics put a lot of time and effort into this kit. The attention to detail is second to none and they offer a lifetime warranty if you have it installed by one of their dealers.

With that being said, I did find through my research some debate to whether or not the fan controller (that comes supplied with the kit) can handle the draw of all three fans simultaneously. According to the manufacturer, the fans have a low amp draw of 5 amps per fan at full speed, but that doesn’t account for the initial draw. One remedy to ensure the draw is to use a 75 amp relay to supply the fans. In other words, the advice that was given to me is the advice that I’m posting here, and that is to use the controller to trigger at least a 50 amp relay to supply the fans. Otherwise, the fans might not pull as much air as they should due to a lack of current.

Even though the controller comes with a 30 amp fuse, that may not be enough protection. If the 30 amp fuse blows, then I have no fans. Since I no longer have the mechanical fan, blowing the fuse is one risk that I don’t want to take. For this reason, I decided to use one 30 amp relay and 30 amp fuse for each fan. The fans will be triggered by one lead from the fan controller.

Okay, so on to the install. The radiator and electric fan kit was installed without any problems.

Image

Instead of using the OE transmission hardline to connect to the radiator, we plumbed the aftermarket transmission cooler to the radiator’s upper transmission outlet.

Image

The transmission will now flow through the radiator cooler to the external cooler and back to the transmission return line. After leaving the external coolant filter, the line is tucked behind the front bumper and is plumbed to the transmission filter. Not only is the filter in a safe place, but it’s going to be very easy to service.

Image

Image

Image

We ended the day by finding a mounting location for the controller.

Image

Here's the added relays for each fan.

Image

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Last edited by dieselenthusiast on Tue Jun 12, 2012 12:06 am, edited 3 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: 2000 XJ (work in progress)
PostPosted: Fri Jun 08, 2012 9:58 pm 
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Day 2

Now that we have the radiator installed, there are some decisions that need to be made. First, I need to figure out what type of shutoff valve that I’m going to use to stop the flow to and from the coolant filter. The valves will make filter changes possible without drenching myself in coolant.

The second thing I need to consider is the mounting of the fan switch. I was pretty excited to see that I had a blank switch panel in the OE bezel. But, I also learned that the blank switch panel doesn’t contain the clips to hold the switch. That meant that I needed to find a 3 switch bezel. But to go one step further, I learned that the XJ also came with a 4 switch panel in the export market and in the police package. 8) The fourth switch in the export market was for rear facing fog lights. The fourth switch in the police package was called an extended idle switch. “When you press the button it raises the idle RPM's to about 1000 rpm to provide better cooling and higher alternator amps for emergency lights.” I’ve been told that “the extended idle also raises your alternator speed, and increases coolant flow.” From my understanding, the extended idle switch and kit can still be bought.

After spending several hours researching and looking for switches and bezels, I ordered a 4 switch bezel and two OE switches.

While waiting on parts, we decided to install a magnefine filter for the power steering pump. While attempting the install, we broke off the hose fitting to the pump. :mrgreen: The original OE pump was 12+ years old with 180,000+ miles on it, so I can’t complain too much.
We got the new power steering pump on and installed a magnefine filter. Then we filled it with Amsoil Power Steering Fluid.

Image

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Last edited by dieselenthusiast on Tue Jun 12, 2012 2:15 am, edited 4 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: 2000 XJ (work in progress)
PostPosted: Mon Jun 11, 2012 11:41 pm 
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Day 3

The coolant filter is installed and working properly. Initially I wanted to use a nicer ball valve without the handle, but since I was limited on time, I was able to test fit these valves without having to order them. We had plenty of room in the mounting location therefore the handles were not a concern.

Here's the inlet and outlet to and from the coolant filter

Image

Image

Image

Image

The coolant filter is tucked away behind the front bumper and protected by the radiator support and frame rail.

Image

Image

You can see both the transmission filter and coolant filter.

Image

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 Post subject: Re: 2000 XJ (work in progress)
PostPosted: Sun Jun 17, 2012 11:11 pm 
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dieselenthusiast wrote:
Image


There are two major benefits for using the Amsoil Coolant Booster. (1) It can reduce engine temps up to 6 degrees when mixed with 50/50 antifreeze/water mixture and (2) it helps fight radiator corrosion.

The following information was taken from http://www.amsoil.com/storefront/rdcb.aspx

Competitive testing comparing AMSOIL Dominator Coolant Boost and Red Line Water Wetter® was conducted in an independent laboratory. The ASTM corrosion tests featured in this study are designed to simulate the most grueling conditions cooling systems face, and are the actual test standards the automotive industry relies upon for the approval of engine coolant products.Test results show Dominator Coolant Boost provides enhanced temperature reduction and corrosion protection properties over Red Line Water Wetter.

To test temperature reduction capabilities, controlled engine dynamometer (dyno) tests were performed on a 350 cubic inch Chevy engine with an aluminum block and cylinder heads. In each phase of testing, the engine was operated at 4,500 rpm until coolant temperature stabilized. As benchmarks for the test, straight water coolant stabilized at 220°F and a 50/50 antifreeze/water mixture stabilized at 228°F.

Dominator Coolant Boost
Mixed with 50/50 Antifreeze/Water
6°F reduction
Mixed with Straight Water Coolant
19°F reduction

Red Line Water Wetter
Mixed with 50/50 Antifreeze/Water
3°F reduction
Mixed with Straight Water Coolant
12°F reduction

Cast Aluminum Alloys Corrosion Test

The Cast Aluminum Alloys Corrosion Test (ASTM D-4340) measures corrosion protection properties in modern automobile and high-performance race engines with aluminum cylinder heads. A cast aluminum puck was heated to 275°F at 28 PSI and exposed to the test coolant mixture for one week. Weight loss of less than 1.0 mg is required to pass the test.

Weight Loss in mg (1.00 max)
Dominator Coolant Boost
0.14

Weight Loss in mg (1.00 max)
Red Line Water Wetter
0.21

Weight Loss in mg (1.00 max)
Water Only
3.97

Corrosion Test in Glassware
In the Corrosion Test in Glassware (ASTM D-1384), six metal coupons constructed of the most common metals in automotive cooling systems were totally immersed in aerated coolant mixtures for 336 hours at 190°F. Each test was performed three times to determine the average weight change for each metal. The ASTM sets the “allowable” weight loss maximums for each metal.

Copper weight loss (mg), Allowable 10 max
Dominator Coolant Boost in straight water (1)
Red Line Water Wetter in straight water (1)
Water Only (25)

Solder weight loss (mg), Allowable 30 max
Dominator Coolant Boost in straight water (1)
Red Line Water Wetter in straight water (6)
Water Only (62)

Brass weight loss (mg), Allowable 10 max
Dominator Coolant Boost in straight water (0)
Red Line Water Wetter in straight water (2)
Water Only (23)

Steel weight loss (mg), Allowable 10 max
Dominator Coolant Boost in straight water (1)
Red Line Water Wetter in straight water (1)
Water Only (18)

Cast Iron weight loss (mg), Allowable 10 max
Dominator Coolant Boost in straight water (0)
Red Line Water Wetter in straight water (0)
Water Only (29)

Cast Aluminum weight loss (mg), Allowable 30 max
Dominator Coolant Boost in straight water (0)
Red Line Water Wetter in straight water (16)
Water Only (91)

Simulated Service Corrosion Test
In the Simulated Service Corrosion Test (ASTM D-2570), six metal coupons constructed of the most common metals in automotive cooling systems were exposed to ASTM corrosive water designed to simulate hard and corrosive water in degraded coolant for 1,064 hours at 190°F. Coolant was maintained at a temperature and flow rate equivalent to the operating conditions seen in most passenger vehicles. Corrosive weight loss suffered during the test determines the additive’s corrosion protection properties. The ASTM sets the “allowable” weight loss maximums for each metal.

Copper weight loss (mg), Allowable 20 max
Dominator Coolant Boost in straight water (7)
Red Line Water Wetter in straight water (6)
Water Only (66)

Solder weight loss (mg), Allowable 60 max
Dominator Coolant Boost in straight water (0)
Red Line Water Wetter in straight water (25)
Water Only (120)

Brass weight loss (mg), Allowable 20 max
Dominator Coolant Boost in straight water (3)
Red Line Water Wetter in straight water (5)
Water Only (59)

Steel weight loss (mg), Allowable 20 max
Dominator Coolant Boost in straight water (0)
Red Line Water Wetter in straight water (4)
Water Only (54)

Cast Iron weight loss (mg), Allowable 10 max
Dominator Coolant Boost in straight water (0)
Red Line Water Wetter in straight water (2)
Water Only (117)

Cast Aluminum weight loss (mg), Allowable 60 max
Dominator Coolant Boost in straight water (0)
Red Line Water Wetter in straight water (34)
Water Only (89)

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 Post subject: Re: 2000 XJ (work in progress)
PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 6:18 pm 
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I decided to go with the 4 switch bezel. It’s an OE part and will allow for a cleaner install. I’m not sure which switches I’ll use in this bezel, but I’ll have no problem filling it up.

Image

Image

Image

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 Post subject: Re: 2000 XJ (work in progress)
PostPosted: Tue Jul 24, 2012 7:05 pm 
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I used my diagnostic tool for the first time. After installing the new radiator and triple fan kit, I wanted to check my coolant temperature. Surprisingly, the OE gauge is pretty accurate. So far, I am happy with the new radiator and triple fan kit.

Image

Image

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 Post subject: Re: 2000 XJ (work in progress)
PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 12:17 am 
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After looking at many steering manufacturers, I ended up choosing Currie. Their kits are 100% bolt-on and designed to work with the OE pitman arm.

Currie Currectlync Heavy Duty Tie Rod and Drag Link System
Part #: CE-9701

Description: The Currie Currectlync® heavy duty tie rod and drag link system for TJ, LJ, XJ, and MJ vehicles features, a 1 ¼" diameter forged alloy drag link, and 1 ¼" solid alloy steel tie rod bar that is bored and threaded on the ends. All 7/8" thread tie rod ends with boots are included as well as the Currie heavy duty steering stabilizer bracket. This unit is a direct replacement for the stock parts. No modifications or machining to any part of the vehicle is necessary. This unit is rated at 200% stronger than the stock components. NOTE: This unit is designed to be used on vehicles with 4" of lift. It can be used on vehicles with less lift, but the vehicle must have a minimum of a 2" bump stop (over stock). Also, on vehicles with no lift, 2 of the tie rod ends may need be trimmed to achieve proper adjustment.

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 Post subject: Re: 2000 XJ (work in progress)
PostPosted: Wed Jul 25, 2012 1:11 am 
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In general, Baldwin makes very good filters and they typically have a lower micron rating than Wix. But giving Wix the benefit of doubt, let’s say they are equal to the Baldwin. We know that the Baldwin B5134 is rated at 20um at 50% efficiency and 45um absolute at 100% efficiency. The Donaldson ECF4085 coolant filter is rated at 14um absolute at 100% efficiency. So, let’s compare:

Baldwin: 45 micron
Donaldson: 14 micron

As you can see, there is a big difference in filter media. You are getting more than triple the protection by going with the Donaldson. It would be interesting to know how many premature water pump failures have occurred due to contaminates in the coolant. I found this small tidbit of information: “Field tests returns have noted that 40% of used water filters evaluated contained moderate amounts of contaminant and greater than 10% contained heavy amounts. In addition, a survey of over 11,600 engines operating with and without water filters noted a 3 to 1 reduction in water pump seal leakage between fleets using filters and those which do not (SAE Technical Paper Series 881270).”

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Last edited by dieselenthusiast on Sun Aug 05, 2012 7:38 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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