TJ Lift Q's

moose · **Posted:** Mon Apr 23, 2007 9:45 am

OK, so I'm looking at several lift option for the LJ. I See PixelDzn is using the OME lift with a BL and a MML; well can someone explain a MML? I understand why the BL, but I just don't get the MML.

kj in a tight spot · **Posted:** Mon Apr 23, 2007 11:07 am

The MML is used to compensate for the BL...they are usually a 1" lift and they physically lift the motor to make sure the angles are all aligned again with the DS, t-case, etc. It is STRONGLY recommended that you get this cheap mod if ya do a BL. I personally have the JKS 1.25" BL w/their 1" BMML and it works great. Believe it or not, the t-case shifter and the stick shift much better than stock

Good, cheap and easily installed mods to gain that extra bit of clearance and line everything up right again

SunDvl · **Posted:** Mon Apr 23, 2007 11:29 am

I love my lift - RE 4.5 Superflex (swapped out the 4.5 coils to 3.5 coils to keep all the UCA's) with OME shocks.

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Apr 23, 2007 8:41 pm

Hey Moose have you been on the ROF site yet? There is some really good discussions about lifts from budget lifts all the way to maxed out ones. Not trying to steer you away from LOST :wink:

but some good info anyways.
I go over there to dream, :lol:

almost have the wife convinced that she needs one to drive (a Rubicon) (and then I get to Mod it) :lol:

moose · **Posted:** Mon Apr 23, 2007 9:14 pm

tommudd wrote:

Hey Moose have you been on the ROF site yet? There is some really good discussions about lifts from budget lifts all the way to maxed out ones. Not trying to steer you away from LOST :wink:

but some good info anyways.
I go over there to dream, :lol:

almost have the wife convinced that she needs one to drive (a Rubicon) (and then I get to Mod it) :lol:

Just get a TJ (quick while you can) X or Sport and mod it to be better than a rubi. that's my goal.

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Apr 23, 2007 10:02 pm

Will be the way we go if I can just sweet talk her a little more. Will do like you slowly build it over time, when she is not looking :wink:

She has always wanted a ......dare I say.....Rav 4 but slowly getting her back to the right side. :lol:

Where she comes from they have a lot of Rav 4s but also some Jeeps if you have enough money.

jason thompson · **Posted:** Mon Apr 23, 2007 11:30 pm

moose wrote:

OK, so I'm looking at several lift option for the LJ. I See PixelDzn is using the OME lift with a BL and a MML; well can someone explain a MML? I understand why the BL, but I just don't get the MML.

all easy stuff
as others stated what they mean and what they do but there are down sides to every mod and that is what I look at
I have been through the ringer with the mods to the TJ so I will try to keep you from eff'n up like I did

What I know ,the short version on how to mod a TJ to be like a rubi +some
Do NOT use poly bushings in control arms they go out quick <5000 miles
Do NOT use adjustable lowers on a short arm kit ,rather get fixed proper length lowers and adjustable uppers with OE style rubber bushings
Avoid poly spacers on the rear end ,UNLESS you do a rear spring relocation, long story I can PM you if you need
these are the main thigs to look out for

Now what I think works or what I did or am doing
first get some lift on it I like rustys lifts but with FIXED length lowers ,trust me I have had/am having issues with his adj lowers
get some new meat but dont go crazy as you will up grade later and with the 3.73's that I think you have any thing over 32" will be to big ,I like cheep
get an SYE/CV rear DS combo from any of a number of places that sell them as a pkg. for ~$500 ,for this you will need adj uppers in the rear
next get an Nth* tummy tucker I should have said earlier do not do a MML if you want a TT ,I THINK that with the '06 you will need a 1" BL to do this

If you go with say a 3" coil lift + the TT + the 32" tires you will gain 6" at the xfer case skid wich is the hang up for the LJ
Given my top pic for lifts I would go Nth*
I have one of the most hybrid lift combos but of all of it their stuff is the BEST hands down ,yes it cost more but you get what you pay for

Now as far as lockers
ARB front or any selectable you like
for the rear go CHEEP ,lunch box locker will be fine under 32's ,aussie or quick lock or what ever you want provided you do not have Trac loc
The reason I say go cheep is that with 3.73's in a 44 that is the breaking point if you want 4.10's of numericaly higher you need to change the carrier out
and I am waiting for my regear + I have trac loc ,it is worn but it still works OK

If you need any pics or info on what I have done feel free to ask
I dont want to see any one go through the head aches I did also this i not my DD so I can let it sit for a week on jack stands while I get the proper stuff to fix what I effed up

Hope this helps and good luck
Jason

moose · **Posted:** Tue Apr 24, 2007 8:13 am

Thanks Jason. Since I already have the 32's from my KJ, that part is simple. A guy at the gym has an almost identical LJ, but with a bunch of goodies

. He is selling his 4" skyjacker to get a 6" nth degree, so I'm going to see what kind of a deal he'll make on the old lift. I just bought a Rusty's engine/oil pan, radiator and steering box skid. I don't know the quality, but I had to get something under her.

As for the Dana's, well the rear 44 has TT, so I'm not going to dork with that for a while (I know, it's no locker, but I have to prioritize spending

). Once I do, I'd like to have front and rear ECTED's or OX's, although I see your point about the rear.

chefdab · **Posted:** Tue Apr 24, 2007 5:12 pm

Quote:

The reason I say go cheep is that with 3.73's in a 44 that is the breaking point if you want 4.10's of numericaly higher you need to change the carrier out

Yes the carrier break is at 3.73, but you can go lower on the same carrier (ie, 4.10, 4.56 or 4.88) . If you started on a TJ with the stock 3.07 gears then to get 3.73 or anything lower(numerically higher) you would have to replace the carrier. I know this since I already got a quote from a shop to install new gears. In doing the estimate they asked what gears I was currently running so they would know if they needed to include a new carrier in the parts list. And they told me I would be fine with the stock carrier.

jason thompson · **Posted:** Tue Apr 24, 2007 6:44 pm

chefdab wrote:

Quote:

The reason I say go cheep is that with 3.73's in a 44 that is the breaking point if you want 4.10's of numericaly higher you need to change the carrier out

Yes the carrier break is at 3.73, but you can go lower on the same carrier (ie, 4.10, 4.56 or 4.88) . If you started on a TJ with the stock 3.07 gears then to get 3.73 or anything lower(numerically higher) you would have to replace the carrier. I know this since I already got a quote from a shop to install new gears. In doing the estimate they asked what gears I was currently running so they would know if they needed to include a new carrier in the parts list. And they told me I would be fine with the stock carrier.

I would double check if I were you
Dana 44 carrier break is 3.73 and lower or 4.10 and higher

The break is 2.73-3.73 or 3.92-5.38 for the arb lockers

I know that you can get thick cut 4.10's and 4.56's that will work on a 3.73 carrier but from what I hear they are a PITA to work with

jason thompson · **Posted:** Tue Apr 24, 2007 6:59 pm

moose wrote:

Thanks Jason. Since I already have the 32's from my KJ, that part is simple. A guy at the gym has an almost identical LJ, but with a bunch of goodies

. He is selling his 4" skyjacker to get a 6" nth degree, so I'm going to see what kind of a deal he'll make on the old lift. I just bought a Rusty's engine/oil pan, radiator and steering box skid. I don't know the quality, but I had to get something under her.

As for the Dana's, well the rear 44 has TT, so I'm not going to dork with that for a while (I know, it's no locker, but I have to prioritize spending

). Once I do, I'd like to have front and rear ECTED's or OX's, although I see your point about the rear.

I have skyjacker springs and shocks I like the ride
I would avoid the skyjacker control arms ,poly joints dont last and the "flex joints" ride like pooo

as far as rustys skids they are fine to my knowlage and a steering box skid is a must

I would go OX over ECTED in the front mostly because I know more people with the OX's and they all love them

I would get the locker up front befor any thing it makes the jeep 100000000% more capable

lilmatty · **Posted:** Tue Apr 24, 2007 7:16 pm

If you want to preserve that sweet ride get a long arm...

moose · **Posted:** Tue Apr 24, 2007 8:28 pm

lilmatty wrote:

If you want to preserve that sweet ride get a long arm...

Now if I just had 3G's to spend on her

No, I'm going to have to wait a few years before I put a LA on her...

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