This Was Probably a Bad Choice.

Guest · **Posted:** Thu Mar 26, 2009 1:14 am

That's what I'd do.

And be honest with yourself...do you really think you're gonna get GOOD gas mileage with the 4.0?

ThunderbirdJunkie's cammed 304/727/D300/4.11 geared CJ7 got dismal fuel economy, but a large part of that is the loud exhaust that lead to a lead foot:D

It would still go about 200 miles per 17(ish?) gallon tank on the highway though...4 barrel (which really doesn't affect highway mileage, since two of those venturis are inactive part-throttle)

If you run a decent 650 carb with a decent cam and a 304 V8, and you don't succumb to the beastly tones of the true duals, you will be rewarded with decent mileage (For what it is)

And with the F150 8.8...that's what would be in mine now if I still had it (had the Corp 20 rear). Just get a proportioning valve for it, and USE IT, because those monstrous rear drums WILL make that stubby little thing want to swap ends under hard braking.

BTW...make sure you double-check the measurement WMS to WMS on the 8.8...you may be better off using F150 brakes on a Ranger housing with custom axleshafts if you decide to go the 8.8 route. IIRC there was no disk brake option on an F150 with a 5x5.5 bolt pattern for rear brakes

jsc7002 · **Posted:** Thu Mar 26, 2009 1:45 am

well I found a 4.2L that is rebuilt and is a good price and then my friend talked me into going with full-width axles, the D44/ 9" in particular.

KJ kyle · **Posted:** Thu Mar 26, 2009 2:05 am

if you put a 4.0 HO head on that 4.2 you can gain something like 30-40 hp... and the full widths would be very cool. mine is still on narrow tracks :cry:

scrambledKJ · **Posted:** Thu Mar 26, 2009 7:03 pm

Nice project.

If you find a 4.0 and ax-15, the dana 300 will bolt in. The ax5 behind the 4 bangers were the wrong spline.

The f150 8.8 is way too wide. I have one in my scrambler with a WT cherokee 44 front and spidertrax spacers and the rear is still 3-4 inches wider. I dont mind. The 38 sx's just stick out further.

An explorer 8.8 is a nice swap. get the diskbrake from 96 and up. you can get alloy usa shafts with the 5 on 5.5 pattern and get your rotors redrilled. I built one last summer for my friends YJ on 37's.

The easiest axle up front it the widetrac dana 30. Easy to spring over or keep under. The narrow spring width on the cj makes most fullsize axles not fit easily.

My 80 CJ7 is getting a widetrac 30, scout 44 SOA with 35's and a 4.0 and ax15 when I can find one complete and cheap.

I guess I would have to finish my scrambler first....good thing I brought home a J4000 today....my wife hates me

Travis

jsc7002 · **Posted:** Thu Mar 26, 2009 7:20 pm

Well actually I think I have have just found a Wagoneer D44 that is exactly what I want and then I would just need to find a good rear D44 or I might do the 8.8. I am also talking to two guys about a engine, they are both rebuilt, one is the 4.0L and the other is the 4.2L which I am tempted to do because it would match up with the manuals I have and make it a lot easier to do my gauges and wiring. Then if I do the 4.2L I found a T18, so then I would rebuild it and be good to go minus the t-case.

jsc7002 · **Posted:** Wed Apr 08, 2009 8:20 pm

okay I finally got some parts, I got a couple of CJ manuals and I bought a front D44 axle today for only $150 and I might have found an 'N' Ford 9" for $125 and then my friend called me yesterday and said he has a completely rebuilt and bored out 360 V8 with a Holley carb in a 1981 Jeep Wagoneer and he offered the Wagoneer to me for $400, so Im thinking Ill buy it just for the engine and then part out the rest.

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Wed Apr 08, 2009 8:53 pm

Pics as you gather the pieces?

Sounds like the parts are coming together nicely.

jsc7002 · **Posted:** Wed Apr 08, 2009 9:02 pm

yea Ill get some pics when I get it home, I picked it up at a local salvage yard close by school so it wont be till Friday afternoon till I have it with my CJ.

JeepinJarhead03 · **Posted:** Wed Apr 08, 2009 9:34 pm

so ya didn't want a v8 cause of the mpg's then atleast are pondering a 360? :lol:

i figured ya woulda chomped on the AMC or a olds 260/307 builder or a SB chevy, they all bolt to AX15's or a T18's

I personally like 4 speed trannys for rods or wheelers

i hope to get my hands on another 352 ford when I finally get to do my project down the road

jsc7002 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 09, 2009 2:24 am

JeepinJarhead03 wrote:

so ya didn't want a v8 cause of the mpg's then atleast are pondering a 360? :lol:

i figured ya woulda chomped on the AMC or a olds 260/307 builder or a SB chevy, they all bolt to AX15's or a T18's

I personally like 4 speed trannys for rods or wheelers

i hope to get my hands on another 352 ford when I finally get to do my project down the road

yea but there is more power which I like so.....

ya those arent bad engines but the 304, 360 and 401 are WAY easier to install in a CJ and still have everything work, since they came in them, the 350 is a common swap but more work is involved and Im on a timeline and budget.

ATXKJ · **Posted:** Thu Apr 09, 2009 3:33 am

Take the 4.0 block - drop in the 4.2 crank and end up with a 4.6

http://www.ajeepthing.com/stroker-motor.html

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Thu Apr 09, 2009 12:29 pm

ATXKJ wrote:

Take the 4.0 block - drop in the 4.2 crank and end up with a 4.6

http://www.ajeepthing.com/stroker-motor.html

That is what I would do Over a V8 but only if It turned out to be cheaper overall. (since the stroker would make plenty of torque for the app.)

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Thu Apr 09, 2009 10:29 pm

JJsKJ wrote:

ATXKJ wrote:

Take the 4.0 block - drop in the 4.2 crank and end up with a 4.6

http://www.ajeepthing.com/stroker-motor.html

That is what I would do Over a V8 but only if It turned out to be cheaper overall. (since the stroker would make plenty of torque for the app.)

I'd skip the 4.6 stroker,the last 2 built,and rebuilt here in CO blew up on there way back from MOAB last week,both XJ's are now getting V8's.Heard many horror stories about those strokers not lasting and blowing often.

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Fri Apr 10, 2009 10:01 am

tjkj2002 wrote:

JJsKJ wrote:

ATXKJ wrote:

Take the 4.0 block - drop in the 4.2 crank and end up with a 4.6

http://www.ajeepthing.com/stroker-motor.html

That is what I would do Over a V8 but only if It turned out to be cheaper overall. (since the stroker would make plenty of torque for the app.)

I'd skip the 4.6 stroker,the last 2 built,and rebuilt here in CO blew up on there way back from MOAB last week,both XJ's are now getting V8's.Heard many horror stories about those strokers not lasting and blowing often.

Strange. 1st stories I have heard of the sort on straight 6 strokers. What failed?

Problem in many places is getting a V8 swap to pass the referee. Maybe possible on some Jeeps that came w/ v8's but good luck in this state and many in any vehicle that didn't come w/ one as an option.

jsc7002 · **Posted:** Sat Apr 11, 2009 1:37 am

ok here is the D44, I actually got it to fit in the back of the KJ, I spent a couple hours today tearing it down and cleaning it up, but it kind of sucks because its the bottom of the barrel D44 no flat top knuckles, 3.42 gears, open and I need to replace the hubs and once I get it all cleaned Ill paint it. So eventually I will add either 4.88 or 5.13 gears, DTT, diff cover and high steer. And tomorrow I am driving 1.5 hrs to pick up a GM 14 bolt for $150, but I dont think I will be able to get it in and out of the KJ so easy so I am going to hopefully borrow a trailer.

jsc7002 · **Posted:** Fri Apr 17, 2009 8:58 pm

Sorry I now Im missing some pictures but Ill get them up this next weekend, I got the FF 14Bolt it was a big pain to load and unload but I got it done and I paid $175, I just got back from KC, MO and I picked up a gas tank, T150 and Dana 20, I know the Dana 20 isnt the best but Im gonna change the gears so itll go from a 2.0:1 low range to a 2.46:1, I got the tank, trans, t-case and cross member all for $125 and Im hoping to pick up a complete wire harness and a twin sticked Dana 18 next weekend for $70.

The Dana 18 is for the 2.46:1 low range, I will just need a Bronco Dana 20 upper sliding gear that is 33 toothed, and then I will have a twin stick, 2.46:1 low range Dana 20!

Guest · **Posted:** Mon Apr 20, 2009 11:19 pm

Why would you put a DTT in the front of a trail rig with lockout hubs when an Aussie locker is $200 cheaper?

Just sayin'...

Lincoln Locking is significantly cheaper as well

jsc7002 · **Posted:** Tue Apr 21, 2009 1:19 am

ThunderbirdJunkie wrote:

Why would you put a DTT in the front of a trail rig with lockout hubs when an Aussie locker is $200 cheaper?

Just sayin'...

Lincoln Locking is significantly cheaper as well

yea I know, that is my second choice, but I just want a full carrier replacement, but I may end up going with the Aussie, unless I can find another good deal for a Detroit

callaway · **Posted:** Tue Apr 21, 2009 9:20 am

what size tires are you planning on running with the 14 bolt ?

jsc7002 · **Posted:** Tue Apr 21, 2009 11:45 am

callaway wrote:

what size tires are you planning on running with the 14 bolt ?

Im not sure, it changes, Im going to shave it and Ill be running at least 36" and maybe later on a 38"

This Was Probably a Bad Choice.

Who is online