YJ lift advice needed - edit: the build begins

phxtoad · **Posted:** Fri Sep 28, 2007 5:17 pm

I posted awhile back that I am 'allowed' to lift Lois's '95 YJ.

However, I promised that I would never scratch it. :cry:

After researching things with the goal of running 33's (the right way), I'm thinking of dialing it back a bit due to $$$ and sticking to 31's/32's. This rig probably will only see trails once in a while, so I'm thinking 2.5" lift, maybe a 1" body lift (if needed - I know everyone hates them - I wouldn't do more than 1") - and/or shackles. Then just some disconnects for the sways.

Questions:

1. Will I need to do a SYE with only the 2.5" lift?
2. Will it need a transfer case drop (in lieu of SYE)?
3. Extended brake lines?
4. Will it need to be re-geared (if she wants to retain quick acceleration)?
5. Drop pitman arm?
6. Steering stabilizer (is death wobble an issue at 2.5")?

My assumption is that I wouldn't need to do any of the above (except for maybe #3 and #5) if it's not going to be used off road much.

Any advice?

Thanks for your support!

Todd

chefdab · **Posted:** Fri Sep 28, 2007 6:46 pm

I'm not as knowledgeable on YJ's as I am on TJ's but I Will pass on what I have learned.

1. You may not get driveline vibes with only 2.5 inches, but each Jeep is different. Ideally you should do a SYE just to err on the side of caution. A transfer case drop and/or a motor mount lift can also take care of the vibes but this seems to be the poor man's way to deal with it. It will kind of depend on your budget. But remember dropping the t-case makes you lose some of the clearance gained by lifting.
2. See number 1.
3. I've heard YJ brake lines are already pretty long. It was suggested to me to use stock YJ lines to replace the broken line I have with my 5.5 inch lift.
4. If stock gears were 3.07 then yes I would regear. 3.73 might be livable but 4.10's would be best with 32's.
5. On TJ's they say drop pitman arms will cause bumpsteer on small lifts like you're talking. The thing you need to determine whether or not you need a drop pitman arm is if the lift is enough to cause your track bar and draglink to come out of parallel, then you will need a DPA to correct this. Since YJ's don't come with track bars due to the leaf springs that will be hard to tell. I would try it with the stock pitman arm first since it is not a large lift and drive it around the block a few times to see if the handling has been affected. Then you'll know if you need to get a drop pitman arm.
6. A stock stabilizer would probably be okay for those size tires, but only if it is not worn out. If it is still the factory original, I would replace it anyway. It is just a shock that's valved different and can wear out just like your other shocks.

Hope this helps.

kj in a tight spot · **Posted:** Fri Sep 28, 2007 11:10 pm

phxtoad wrote:

After researching things with the goal of running 33's (the right way), I'm thinking of dialing it back a bit due to $$$ and sticking to 31's/32's. This rig probably will only see trails once in a while, so I'm thinking 2.5" lift, maybe a 1" body lift (if needed - I know everyone hates them - I wouldn't do more than 1") - and/or shackles. Then just some disconnects for the sways.

Good choice for ya sounds like. everybody dont hate BLs but I wouldnt recommend one over 1.25" which is what I got. They serve a good purpose IMO.

phxtoad wrote:

Questions:

1. Will I need to do a SYE with only the 2.5" lift?
2. Will it need a transfer case drop (in lieu of SYE)?
3. Extended brake lines?
4. Will it need to be re-geared (if she wants to retain quick acceleration)?
5. Drop pitman arm?
6. Steering stabilizer (is death wobble an issue at 2.5")?

My assumption is that I wouldn't need to do any of the above (except for maybe #3 and #5) if it's not going to be used off road much.

Answers:

1. Prolly not, like stated before every jeep is different BUT you should be ok.
2. No dont do this either :lol:

Defeats the purpose of liftin'. If you really were worried then get the SYE instead. T-case drops are one of the dumber things Ive seen out there, and are only made to cut corners for people who want a quick and cheap fix IMO.
3. Nope, dont need em YJs are plenty long
4. Prolly yea, 4.10s would be my first choice. Good all round gear for a lift/tire size like the one your talkin bout
5. Didnt need one on my TJ, yet...
6. Would recommend it. Remeber though a new stabilizer/upgraded one is just a band aid for death wobble and NOT a cure so dont get caught in that trap. They are cheap as hell at any Pep Boys and should be in stock.

Dont need to really do ANY of the above at all, but you could if you choose. Its your money boss aint ours

jason thompson · **Posted:** Sun Sep 30, 2007 9:52 pm

phxtoad wrote:

Questions:

1. Will I need to do a SYE with only the 2.5" lift?
2. Will it need a transfer case drop (in lieu of SYE)?
3. Extended brake lines?
4. Will it need to be re-geared (if she wants to retain quick acceleration)?
5. Drop pitman arm?
6. Steering stabilizer (is death wobble an issue at 2.5")?

1. not if you drop the T-case but sye is prefered
2. see #1
3. probably not with only 2.5" of lift but your choice in shocks will determain that
4. sorry to say but 99% yes it probably has 3.07 gears and with 32's you will want at least 3.73's now 4.10 will give it life like never befor. This also brings up the question of lockers/LSD's the cost is only parts as the labor is in the regear
if you go LSD's (tru-tracks front and rear) the DD will not be affected but the off road will be night and day
5. probably not
6. I would say yes

some notes about a '95
I would bet that the bushings on the front end are shot and that can cause D/W
also the ball joints should be looked at they too can cause D/W
YJ's do have a front track bar and it is needed for good road maners but the sway bar make little differance
My brother has a '94 and many of these issues have come up
it has 4" and runs 35's by the slightest he had 3.07's and even with the I6 and only 33's he could not use 5th gear
now he has 4.56's and can probably pull wheelies
he had the track bar bushings go out and D/W set in ,ball joints same thing
he droped the T-case only about an inch on a 4" lift so with 2.5" you may only need to do about 1/2" and a motor mount lift

I probably know more and forgot something so if you have more questions just ask

Gramps · **Posted:** Mon Oct 01, 2007 11:01 am

I had a '92 YJ for about 12 years. After about 4 years and almost 100,000 on the odometer, I decided it was time for some mods. I installed OME springs, shocks, transfer case drop kit, and greaseable shackle bolts. I had 31" BFG All Terrain TAs on ARE Bajas, and covered them with wider flares. Rode far better than it ever had, and was still easy enough to get in and out of! Never had the slightest suspension problem, and eventually sold the Jeep with close to 350,000 miles on it.

phxtoad · **Posted:** Mon Oct 01, 2007 11:17 am

Thanks everyone - excellent advice, especially on the front end wear items. Now if everyone will please send in their donation to this project I can begin!

So far, the only mod I have scheduled is mirror relocation brackets next weekend. Doh!

TL

stick · **Posted:** Mon Oct 01, 2007 2:31 pm

What 2.5" lift kit are you going with? I have the 2.5" Rubicon Express lift on my YJ with some 1" shackles and I got a lot more than 2.5" of lift out of it (ended up with about 4.5-5" total). I ended up going with longer break lines, SYE, and new CV rear driveshaft. The kit didn't come with a drop pitman arm either, so I had to get one of those. Every Jeep is different, but if you're going with an RE lift kit, plan on getting more than the advertised 2.5" of lift, which might mean you will need to spend more $$$ on the SYE, CV, DPA, etc.

phxtoad · **Posted:** Mon Oct 01, 2007 3:39 pm

Stick,

Not sure on which one I'm going to get. I've looked at the RE kit, also BDS, Skyjacker, etc. - I like that the RE kit includes a lot of other items (discos, etc.). I really have no preferences.

It'll be a phased build I'm sure, so I'm hoping that I can run it with the basic lift before making the other upgrades.

TL

stick · **Posted:** Thu Oct 04, 2007 3:43 pm

When I was in the market for a lift kit, I found that most people preferred either RE or BDS.

LibertyFever · **Posted:** Sat Oct 13, 2007 9:39 am

phxtoad wrote:

I posted awhile back that I am 'allowed' to lift Lois's '95 YJ.

However, I promised that I would never scratch it. :cry:

After researching things with the goal of running 33's (the right way), I'm thinking of dialing it back a bit due to $$$ and sticking to 31's/32's. This rig probably will only see trails once in a while, so I'm thinking 2.5" lift, maybe a 1" body lift (if needed - I know everyone hates them - I wouldn't do more than 1") - and/or shackles. Then just some disconnects for the sways.

Questions:

1. Will I need to do a SYE with only the 2.5" lift?
2. Will it need a transfer case drop (in lieu of SYE)?
3. Extended brake lines?
4. Will it need to be re-geared (if she wants to retain quick acceleration)?
5. Drop pitman arm?
6. Steering stabilizer (is death wobble an issue at 2.5")?

My assumption is that I wouldn't need to do any of the above (except for maybe #3 and #5) if it's not going to be used off road much.

Any advice?

Thanks for your support!

Todd

Okay, here's my two cents on this topic;

Firstly let me say that is one fine YJ you have there. I seldom see any with a shine, most are beaten & scratched. I'm not positive if you'll be able to get 33's under a 2.5" suspension lift. A one or two inch body lift (about $100) may get 32's under your fenders. How big of an engine do you have?
I'm assuming that since you don't want to scratch your ride you're not considering any more than mild stock trails. Maybe what you need is a mild upgrade.
I have some experience on the YJ, I have a 95 with a 4" RE lift running on 33's(its definitely not shiny). Lets look at each of the questions you've made.

1. Will I need to do a SYE with only the 2.5" lift?
nope, I'm running a YJ with 4" of suspension lift without a SYE or any driveline vibration

2. Will it need a transfer case drop (in lieu of SYE)?
3. Extended brake lines?
my Rubicon Express lift kit came with transfer case drop hardware & hardware to extend the front brake lines and sway bar disconnects
Its totally your choice but for myself I chose to install all new brake lines front to back (they must have been over twelve years old) and to raise my engine rather than lower the transfer case

4. Will it need to be re-geared (if she wants to retain quick acceleration)?
if you do make a drastic change in tire size then yes, I'd say you need to regear. My four banger YJ sucks big time on the highway with the stock 4.10 gears

5. Drop pitman arm?
I doubt it. Again even with my lift I didn't require it but I chose to put one in.

6. Steering stabilizer (is death wobble an issue at 2.5")?
nope, I believe the "death wobble" is an issue with TJ's because of their coil springs. I'm still running with my stock steering.

Here's an idea, why don't you get a mild body lift ($100) and new wider 32's. Your ride will look great & you'll still have cash in your pocket.

phxtoad · **Posted:** Mon Oct 15, 2007 11:33 am

Liberty Fever,

Thanks. A dealership here had a Jeep Jamboree over the weekend and I think she's getting a bit more excited about the project. However - the first priority will be a new sound system. All the speakers are blown!

TL

stick · **Posted:** Tue Oct 16, 2007 7:23 am

Liberty Fever - I'm really amazed that even with a 4" suspension lift you didn't need an SYE or drop pitman arm. I'd say that certainly isn't the norm. It might be working for you, and that's great, but I'd have to say that 9 times out of 10 you'll need the SYE and drop pitman arm when running a 4" suspension lift on a YJ.

phxtoad · **Posted:** Thu Feb 14, 2008 5:38 pm

RE 2.5" on order. 4Wheelers to install when it comes in... Woo Hoo!

Looking at 31x10.5's BFG AT/KO's - either on the existing wheels (I kinda like the 90's Retro look - makes we want to crank Alice in Chains) -OR- new 16" black steelies with 265/75's. That way I can use them on the KJ if needbe. I bet I'll have some rubbing on the YJ with the 265's - but not too much . Do ya'll agree?

I debated the 4" for 33's till the end. It's too much dough to do it right for THIS build. Gotta get Nathan Jr some Huggies, so I need to save the $$$ for now. Maybe next time.

TL

05kjrenny · **Posted:** Thu Feb 14, 2008 9:29 pm

Add a 1 inch body lift for the extra clearance and you will be fine.

phxtoad · **Posted:** Tue Mar 11, 2008 12:10 am

Here it is with the RE 2 1/2" standard lift, and 32" x 11.5" BFG AT/KO's. We're really happy with the look. To the underside of the rocker trim panels it was 17.5" near the front and 19" near the rear tire. Now (until it settles) it's 22.25" near the front and 23.5 near the rear. I'm guessing it'll settle an inch or so in time.

It's a bit slower as expected - but not bad. So on the wish list is new gears. But that's for another day...

dynamike · **Posted:** Tue Mar 11, 2008 11:39 am

VERY SWEET!!!!!!

boy does that bring back some memories of our YJ.......

sschneider · **Joined:** Thu Aug 18, 2022 10:16 am **Posts:** 2

@phxtoad I just purchased a YJ islander and put a 2.5inch lift on it. I'm planning on going to a 32/11.50 tire. Are your wheels a 15x8? if so, what is the offset. I'm new to this game.

advice from anyone... Also, I am contemplating on doing a 1inch shackle lift and going to a 16x8 offset -11mm wheel with a 285/75R16 tire (32.8x11.2). just a thought.

YJ lift advice needed - edit: the build begins

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