The parts are rolling in!!!!!!(more parts on pg.3)

chefdab · **Posted:** Mon Nov 26, 2007 1:07 pm

Christopher wrote:

tjkj, what steering box are you planning on using? I am looking into a SFA and am trying to get together a parts list. complete as I can. I know people ended up using coilovers with the Dana 30. Are they just not wide enought to use a coil and shock setup? I was looking at the rubicon front axle from mopar. Some suppliers prices are pretty resonable but would be the same width as the 30 I imagine. BTW-sweet wheel and tire combo.

Thanks.

The Rubicon axles from Mopar are the JK Rubicon axles. The front axle is a high pinion and supposedly a lot stronger than previous versions of the Dana 44. They are also wider (I think around 65-67" wms to wms.). They are also a different bolt pattern than the KJ. They are 5on 5 rather than 5 on 4.5 so you would need adapters if you only use the front 44 or want to use your current wheels. They come with the JK bracketry already installed so you would have to cut them off and weld on your own brackets.

Christopher · **Posted:** Mon Nov 26, 2007 2:13 pm

Thanks chefdab. I knew it had the jk brackets but I didnt know they were 5 on 5. Different width too hugh? Well thats out of the question then. Isnt there a HP30 out there? I think my comanche has one.

Thanks

Chris

kj in a tight spot · **Posted:** Thu Nov 29, 2007 3:29 pm

swyszomirski wrote:

I am not interested in going higher than 4" of lift and 32's!

Whats the point of spending thousands of bucks to run 32s :roll:

Just buy a beater CJ, YJ, or TJ if you want that solid axle so bad...you can run 32s on a KJ with a 2.5" lift as it is now...just curious....

C co Crusader 2/127 · **Posted:** Fri Nov 30, 2007 3:35 am

tjkj2002 wrote:

tommudd wrote:

hey I think 20s or 22s would take care of that problem of brake and high steer wouldnt it? Can just see it now...................... :wink:

Tom

The only way I would run 20" rims is if 44" or 54" Boggers where wrapped around them 20" rims :wink:

.

well if you like that why dont you just get a set of 20r16x16 from a HEMMT, HET, PLS, MTVR, or LVSR. the dod auctions about a 100 of them in a lot for about 100 bucks. Now those are tires

[/img]

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Fri Nov 30, 2007 5:18 pm

C co Crusader 2/127 wrote:

tjkj2002 wrote:

tommudd wrote:

hey I think 20s or 22s would take care of that problem of brake and high steer wouldnt it? Can just see it now...................... :wink:

Tom

The only way I would run 20" rims is if 44" or 54" Boggers where wrapped around them 20" rims :wink:

.

well if you like that why dont you just get a set of 20r16x16 from a HEMMT, HET, PLS, MTVR, or LVSR. the dod auctions about a 100 of them in a lot for about 100 bucks. Now those are tires

[/img]

The Michalins and GoodYears that are on the Hemmits/PLS's are junk for offroading,I don't need a load range "G" tire that wieghs 300lbs alone then add about 350lbs for the rim.

Otto · **Posted:** Fri Nov 30, 2007 5:24 pm

nice tire choice, hearing good things about those toyos... probably the tire ill go with when i (eventually) move up to the 285/75 range on my tj (might be a while)

Guest · **Posted:** Fri Nov 30, 2007 6:04 pm

kj in a tight spot wrote:

swyszomirski wrote:

I am not interested in going higher than 4" of lift and 32's!

Whats the point of spending thousands of bucks to run 32s :roll:

Just buy a beater CJ, YJ, or TJ if you want that solid axle so bad...you can run 32s on a KJ with a 2.5" lift as it is now...just curious....

I agree, If you are putting this kind of work & money into your KJ, make it worth your while. I was just looking at some trail ratings & limitations for the Black Hills 4X4 group. They strongly suggest 33"s on a #4 trail, & won't let you on a 4+ trail with anything less than 33"s. #5 trails require 35"s... anything below 4, you can do in a stock 4X4. So with that as a guide, I'd shoot for at least 33"s.

Sadly, I don't get to worry about such problems, with my time frame & current bank account, I'll be lucky to get the Jeepin' by Al's 4" kit, Marlin says no 33"s for me. :cry:

DarbyWalters · **Posted:** Fri Nov 30, 2007 6:56 pm

If you stay at 4" and 32's you can save a lot of rotating mass...Wheels and Tires for one. You can also stick with D44s front and rear with no problems. It would be a stout reliable JEEP. For an everyday driver that choice might suit somebody better than a huge lift/tire combo. You would still get the advantage of front flex and a stronger center section than the D30A. There are plenty more reasons to stay around 4-5" of lift and 32-33" tires...including the cost of tires.

kj in a tight spot · **Posted:** Sat Dec 01, 2007 11:33 am

DarbyWalters wrote:

There are plenty more reasons to stay around 4-5" of lift and 32-33" tires...including the cost of tires.

No doubt. I run 33s and I got a 4" lift...I have taken it on every black diamond trail that Ive pointed the wheels towards without a problem...

My question was WHY in the HELL would you wanna spend upwards of $7k to get a solid axle on a Liberty and only be runnin 32s when that can be had for MUCH cheaper OR you could just buy an old Wrangler or CJ for that amount of money. You would then have yourself two jeeps and have a real 4wheeler beater for the weekends and keep the KJ for the DD duties and some trail ridin...

csukoh78 · **Joined:** Thu Mar 08, 2007 10:34 pm **Posts:** 501

WHAT are you going to do about power??? The 3.7 seems horribly underpowered as it is, and that rig seems to me to not be able to make it uphill at 60mph.....just curious

Christopher · **Posted:** Sat Dec 01, 2007 12:34 pm

I know tjkj has talked about the 4.7l. But gears help a lot as more will be available with the axles hes going with.

Chris

tommudd · **Posted:** Sat Dec 01, 2007 1:17 pm

gear ratio has more to do with the way a vehcle runs than anything else almost, you can take a 4 cyl iron duke motor and drive it everyday with 38s with the proper gearing, tjkj is headed in the right direction, he will have no problems at all with his setup. But then we always think we need more power aarrggghhhhh!! :lol:

Tom

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sat Dec 01, 2007 8:31 pm

csukoh78 wrote:

WHAT are you going to do about power??? The 3.7 seems horribly underpowered as it is, and that rig seems to me to not be able to make it uphill at 60mph.....just curious

Like tommund said I'm gearing low in the axles,going from 32" tires and 4.10 gears to 35" tires and 5.13 gears.4.88 gears you'd be just about perfect to get back into "stock" area but I do alot more city driving so going with 5.13's for better low end for starting my heavy junk from a dead stop,also will be better on the trail.Not worried about the highway,won't be going over 65-70mph anymore anyway.

Oh and my USA Alloy D44 inner and outer axles arrived today,Ford inners and GM outers,one more piece of the jigsaw puzzle here!!!!!

Tokyojoe · **Posted:** Sat Dec 01, 2007 9:21 pm

New pics of those new presents, Troy?

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sat Dec 01, 2007 9:34 pm

Tokyojoe wrote:

New pics of those new presents, Troy?

Here you go---

Christopher · **Posted:** Sat Dec 01, 2007 10:22 pm

Whats the story on the ford inners and gm outers? different hubs or something?

Chris

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Sat Dec 01, 2007 10:31 pm

Christopher wrote:

Whats the story on the ford inners and gm outers? different hubs or something?

Chris

Since I'm using Crane high steer knuckles I have to use GM spindles which need the GM outer stub axles(they are longer then the Fords),same diameter and spline count.Also using Ford rotors but GM caliphers and mounts,screwed up isn't it?

tommudd · **Posted:** Sun Dec 02, 2007 1:33 am

screwed up maybe but works killer, I can tell that this build was not just a 2 week I think I may do this, from the parts that you are assembling this has been a long time ...planning dream, great to see it all coming together for ya!

Rush345 · **Posted:** Mon Dec 03, 2007 2:06 am

From what I've been reading did you imply that your not going to street your rig anymore??Are you going disc brakes on all 4 corners if so what size? I fully understand keeping the power plant and using the gearing to do the work. With the wheels stickng out further does that keep it street leagle?? I'm asking a lot of questions but I think this is way a Cool project.

kj in a tight spot · **Posted:** Mon Dec 03, 2007 2:08 am

Rush345 wrote:

With the wheels stickng out further does that keep it street leagle??

Prolly not but cops usually got better things to do, or are fellow rednecks so they dont give a dayum :lol:

I run a 2.50 BS with 12.50s and they stick out a good bit from my flares...when I ran without fenders for a bit obviously they were WAY out and no stoppy from the coppy :wink:

The parts are rolling in!!!!!!(more parts on pg.3)

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