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PostPosted: Thu Mar 12, 2009 4:56 pm 
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PostPosted: Mon Jul 06, 2009 11:36 pm 
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JJ, remember those 3 D44s from S.A. KJs? One was installed in an XJ right? That XJ has made its way to Reno I guess. A guy on a local forum said the guy he bought the XJ from the previous owner of Nth Degree and an old Chrysler engineer, and he told him that the rear 44 came from a KJ. He had never seen a 44 quite like it and I showed him the pics from your build. He said that was the same axle. Small world, kind of anyway.

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PostPosted: Tue Jul 07, 2009 11:00 am 
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Inc wrote:
JJ, remember those 3 D44s from S.A. KJs? One was installed in an XJ right? That XJ has made its way to Reno I guess. A guy on a local forum said the guy he bought the XJ from the previous owner of Nth Degree and an old Chrysler engineer, and he told him that the rear 44 came from a KJ. He had never seen a 44 quite like it and I showed him the pics from your build. He said that was the same axle. Small world, kind of anyway.


Too funny. Yes though, Unlike any other D44 externally for sure. Dang thing is so much beefier around the case area. Pinion snout is larger diameter externally and extra ribbing around it. I should have measured tube thickness while it was apart but iirc that too is thicker than a standard D44. The Nth slider certainly wasn't a bolt up to the dang thing, requiring quite a bit of massaging in a few areas to make it fit properly.

Shame that speedo pickup is going to waste on that xj. :? :lol:

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 Post subject: Re: DUUUUUUUUUUUHHHHHHHHHHh of the week...
PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 1:39 am 
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JJsKJ wrote:
Oh and one more thing......

Guess what?

Moab wheels WON'T work w/ Warn hubs!!!! :oops: DUUUUUUHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!! :oops:


I never even thought of that but the hole in the middle of the wheel is too small for the hub to go through.

Looks like I am in the market for wheels now too. UGH!

Now should I go Bling! 8) Bling! or just functional? :lol:


Could'nt you have bored out the hole a bit to fit it or no? Or maybe another hub would work with the moab? Trying to do some homework for future project :D If I could get away with using the Moabs that would help with cost & pain to sell & buy other wheels. I think Moabs are the best looking wheel also.

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 Post subject: Re: DUUUUUUUUUUUHHHHHHHHHHh of the week...
PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 8:56 am 
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nosnorb_808 wrote:
JJsKJ wrote:
Oh and one more thing......

Guess what?

Moab wheels WON'T work w/ Warn hubs!!!! :oops: DUUUUUUHHHHHHHHHHHHH!!! :oops:


I never even thought of that but the hole in the middle of the wheel is too small for the hub to go through.

Looks like I am in the market for wheels now too. UGH!

Now should I go Bling! 8) Bling! or just functional? :lol:


Could'nt you have bored out the hole a bit to fit it or no? Or maybe another hub would work with the moab? Trying to do some homework for future project :D If I could get away with using the Moabs that would help with cost & pain to sell & buy other wheels. I think Moabs are the best looking wheel also.


I wouldn't try it. The hub is quite a bit larger than the opening for the small cap that fits there. Thing is, you don't have to run the Warn hubs. You could just run unit bearings and then it would work just like a stock TJ/XJ. That would also save a bundle over the hubs anyway.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 12:58 pm 
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I see... Thanks for the knowledge JJ. I think thats the route I will be going with the unit bearings. I was thinking the same thing with the stock tj/xj just didnt know what it was called. Another question do you think the BS of the Moabs are sufficent enough? Im thinking Moabs wrapped with 33/14.00-16LT TSL Boggers. Sorry if Im hijacking your thread.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 1:20 pm 
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14" tires are kinda wide for the 8" rim width of the Moabs. You should look at a 12" tire or wider rim. w/ the narrower tires, the Moabs should be fine, could always add spacers (though I'm not fond of them)

No hi-jack, good questions. Keep 'em coming.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 2:04 pm 
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no a 8" can work but a 10 is best... still bubble some...i have 16.5 wide boggers w/ a 10" rim and they bubble out fine...thiss will allow you to run less air presure as well... i off road w/ 10 lbs and w/ out bead lock, never had a prob, granted that's a little low, it works

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 3:24 pm 
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If the 10" wheel & 16.5 tire combo works for OHV_KJ. Then a 8" wheel & 14.00 tire combo is similar. Both combos have a 6" or so difference wheel to tire. So all in all in should work right :? For safety reason maybe I will install some staun inner beadlocks. Save money in some areas & spend that saved money in other areas :D

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 3:31 pm 
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ftr, Interco suggests a 10" wide rim for the 14" tires. Sure 8" will work but see here http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/vie ... hp?t=44894 just fyi.

A narrower rim (vs wider) will rarely unseat the bead when aired down so beadlocks are less likey to be needed.

just giving info, do w/ it what you will.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 3:32 pm 
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if ur tire is being squeezed more then it's less likly to break the bead...the tire is tighter to the rim...the down side is that you don't get the full width potetial of the tire...but nothing to shy away from

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 3:59 pm 
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Thanks for the good info JJ & OHV...

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 4:04 pm 
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I've read numerous times before that a narrower rim is better when airing down, but I can't seem to wrap my head around the physics as to why. Can anybody explain in lay terms why this works. I have 12.5 inch tires on 10" rims and worry at times when I air down that I might lose a bead, although I haven't yet. If it makes enough sense, I might go to an 8" rim when I get my next set of tires.

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 22, 2009 6:07 pm 
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the tire is made at a width of say 12.5 wide... when you air up a tire the pressure keeps it to the side of the rim... if you fill that tire w/ 20lbs of air...that tire on the rim has a certain force against it... now take the same tire on a 8" wide... the same air lbs... there will be more force on the side of that tire at the same poundage... also think of it as a belt around ur waist... the belt around u on the 3rd hole is tight... it allows you to move ur pants...go to the 4th and now you can't move ur pants..it's tighter...lol... not sure if i made any sense...lol

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 1:55 pm 
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I searched the thread, but couldn't find this info. Sorry if I'm asking something that has already been answered.

How much higher did you go over stock? (Bottom of fender flair to center of hub typically is 18 to 20 inches depending on year) :)

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PostPosted: Wed Jul 29, 2009 3:38 pm 
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bugnout wrote:
I searched the thread, but couldn't find this info. Sorry if I'm asking something that has already been answered.

How much higher did you go over stock? (Bottom of fender flair to center of hub typically is 18 to 20 inches depending on year) :)


Copied from the "fender height" thread in the 4x4 section from a while back:

Quote:
SFA - All taken w/ my normal DD load in the Jeep, sitting in my slightly inclined driveway. (I'll try to get level measurements later to compare)
RF = 27.25"
RR = 27"
LF = 27.25"
LR = 26.75"

Wifes IFS - Old Daystar lift, stock springs front, OME Med rear w/ one isolator, about 25K on it all (IIRC?) (Sitting slightly crooked in driveway, facing downhill)
RF = 21.5"
RR = 21"
LF = 21"
LR = 20.75"
(hmm....guess I better straighten her out and remeasure)

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 11:15 am 
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For Sale??

So Would anyone pay $22K for my KJ?

If not, taking into consideration whats been done, whats a fair price?


(not saying it Is for sale, but I have been asked.......)

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 12:02 pm 
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Wow! You are selling!?

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 12:07 pm 
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well if you were to sell it I definatly think 22K is an amazing price

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PostPosted: Wed Sep 23, 2009 12:14 pm 
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Neatus wrote:
Wow! You are selling!?


When you wanna pick it up?

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