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Looking for a Dana 44, What should I be looking for
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=73&t=23239		 Page 1 of 1
Author:  bugnout [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 3:43 pm ]
Post subject:  Looking for a Dana 44, What should I be looking for
I'm going to try to build a new rear axle, not ready for SFA conversion yet, but seems like an incremental improvement to replace my 8.25 w/Trak Lok with an axle that has a wider choice of selectable lockers.

Going with a D44 seems like it offers the most flexibility and options and is an incremental upgrade that won't need to be redone if and when I decide to make this a more capable trail rig.

What should I be looking for, what years and models would be the most suitable donor?
Author:  JJsTJ [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 3:53 pm ]
Post subject: 
One out of a 05 or newer TJ (disc brakes) but you are going to need to modify it pretty drastically to accomodate the factory rear suspension. You will need to add a truss across the top to accept the KJ's rear top mount and modify the control arm and shock mounts. Then when (if) you go to do a SFA, you will have to chop that all back off and go back to a different setup. I think it would be too much work to bother with.
Author:  bugnout [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 5:47 pm ]
Post subject: 
Why not just do it all the first time, just not lift over 2.5 inches so I can keep the IFS?
Author:  tommudd [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 6:09 pm ]
Post subject: 
basically you would be doing the work twice even though you would already have the 44 under it, all the mounts that you had put on say today would have to be cut off and new mounts done again. Designing everything to work correctly is not just a weld some stuff on and be done. Every bracket would be different between what you need now with a 2.5 and and going to sfa front later, and raising the rear to match. Just not as simple as it sounds,
Author:  JJsTJ [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 6:43 pm ]
Post subject: 
bugnout wrote:
Why not just do it all the first time, just not lift over 2.5 inches so I can keep the IFS?


You would have to 4 link the rear or go the route of the Nth kit and use a stinger setup like I and others are doing. I don't think it would work well at such a short lift but I could be wrong. I understand what you want to accomplish and I think it would be a good way to go if you can make it all work.
Author:  spencevans [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 6:49 pm ]
Post subject: 
Talk about creating a headache for your self. I am just swapping in a d44 on to leafs in my truck and it is a major project.
Author:  bugnout [ Wed Aug 08, 2007 9:36 pm ]
Post subject: 
OK, assuming I fabbed up a triangulated 4 link, then going to a bigger lift would just require changing the link lengths. I'm betting that there are limited spots to weld the pivot points to under the Libby. Might have an issue with the drive shaft :? I'm not sure I care about rear disks, I'm not impressed with those little bitty shoes on the back now. Don't know that I trust the ebrake enough to get out of my Jeep on a hill to check the line. Regular drum brakes are easy to adjust and I think hold much better. Down side is less effective brakes on the highway.

I was thinking about a bagged system similiar to the ones I've seen for Dodge or Ford pickups. By building out the rear suspension and setting the bags at minimum air pressure hieght to about 3 inches of lift, I could keep the IFS until I was ready for a SFA swap or a taller IFS front suspension becomes available. Bags would also come in handy when I tow.

Anyway, back to my original question. I've checked other threads, and it seems that 97-99 XJ High Pinion D30 is the recommended front axle, due to strength of the u-joints and High pinion. So... when I'm looking for a D44 from the junkyard, besides rear disks is there anything else I should be looking for? What models have the closest widths to the Libby. Any differences in strength from one Jeep to another.
Author:  RQuarte [ Wed Sep 05, 2007 10:17 pm ]
Post subject: 
Save it for the SFA
Author:  ARBSeth [ Fri Sep 07, 2007 1:32 am ]
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More work than it's worth....
The 8.25 works fine. You'd have to totally re work your rear suspension and lose your speedo/tone ring for 1 extra spline on your axles, a whopping .25" of ring gear OD and no c clips. Ummm... you do the math. Now, if you're going to lift the hell out of it, then go ahead... but until then, don't bother.
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