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 Post subject: My SFA parts list(JJ inspired)
PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 10:31 pm 
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Front axle-----

High Pinion Dana 44(mid '70's F-100)-----$175(used,complete drum to drum)
Crane High Steer Knuckles-----------------$200(pair,new)
Napa Ball Joints------------------------------$180(2 upper,2 lower,lifetime replacement)
Napa Ford Hubs------------------------------$210(pair,new)
Napa Premuim rotors----------------------------$140/pair
Napa Wheel bearings/seals-----------------$100(2 sets,new)
Napa Chevy Calipers------------------------$134(L/R,remaned with new pads and mount bolts)
Warn Premium Lockouts--------------------$96(pair,new)
6 Hole Disc Brake Spindles-----------------$140(pair,new)
Precision Gear 5.13 gears------------------$165
Precision Gear install kit--------------------$85
ARB Air Locker-------------------------------$775
TJ mount kit-----------------------------------$200
CTM U-joints----------------------------------$450/pair
USA Alloy 30-spline Alloy axles-------------$650(Ford inners and Chevy outers)
1350 yoke-------------------------------------$120(new)
Crane High Steer arm------------------------$150
Chevy Caliper mounts------------------------$150(pair,new)
Set-up Labor-----------------------------------$200
Brake Lines-------------------------------------$100
Riddler D44-------------------------------------$100


Rear Axle--------------

Currie RockJock 60---------------------------$4000(new,$200 shipping)

Consiting of----
5.13 gears
ARB Air Locker
35-spline alloy axles
TerraFlex Ford Explorer disc brakes
TJ mounts
1350 Yoke

Brake Lines------------------------------------$120
Rear disc brake E-brake cables--------------$60
D60 Riddler cover-----------------------------$100

Tranfer Case------------

AtlasII 4.3-------------------------------------$2500(new,$100 shipping)

Consisting of-------

4.3 low range
cable shifters
Rear flange,front 1310 CV yoke



Suspension-------------------

Rubicon Express TJ Long Arms-------------$1600(F/R and upper/lower arms,Chromoly)
Front springs-RE1345,4.5" ZJ coils---------$150/pair
Rubicon Express ZJ Nitro front shocks-----$150/pair
Rear springs-OME 864's--------------------$150/pair
Bilisten 7100 series 12" rear shocks ------$380
ACOS Pro front bumpstops-----------------$650(pair)
Currie AntiRock------------------------------$350

Steering-----------------------

Ford Steering Gear--------------------------$284(remaned)
Ford Pitman Arm-----------------------------$78
24' 1 1/2"x0.281" walled--------------------$220(track bars,drag link)
MOOG Tie Rod Ends-------------------------$260(all 4,lifetime replacement)
Machining of Steering links(threading them)-$200


Wheels and Tires------------

35x13.50x15 Toyo Open Country MT's-----$1500(5 tires)
15x10 ION alloy rims---------------------$300(5 rims)
Lifetime mount/balance----------------------$100


MISC---------------------

Kilby Gas Tank Skid--------------------------$200 shipped
Dakota Digital Speedo Adapter--------------$80
Nevada speedo AC signal generator--------$160
Wheel studs------------------------------------$40
Lug nuts----------------------------------------$60
Catco cat---------------------------------------$70
4 new OE O2 sensors-------------------------$210
Magnaflow 14416 muffler---------------------$60
Header wrap-----------------------------------$200

MISC...................
High Angle Driveline front shaft--------------$375
High Angle Driveline rear shaft---------------$415



As stated my list is JJ inspired.I went a little overkill but I would rather buy it once them have to upgrade down the road,hence the higher prices.Oh and I don't like used parts,all parts are brand new besides the HP44 housing(housing only used) and the remaned steering box.

Will be updating as the other parts are bought.


Last edited by tjkj2002 on Mon Jun 27, 2011 6:01 pm, edited 10 times in total.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Wed Feb 20, 2008 10:58 pm 
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This sums it up nicely......
Image

But it is also a labor of love.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 2:56 am 
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Um... WOW! I got as far as the rear axle and my head started to swim from all the numbers :shock:

Bet it looks killer once it's done 8) :wink:


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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 10:17 am 
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I am sure there is a reason for it but why not keep the KJ transfer case?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 11:51 am 
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Sport wrote:
I am sure there is a reason for it but why not keep the KJ transfer case?


231 t-case---------

Weaker chain drive
only 2.72:1 low range
26 spline front out put
Slip-yoke for the rear(can be changed but is it worth the extra $1000 to do it?)
No speedo port in the KJ case

AtlasII t-case--------

Gear to gear driven
4.3:1 low range
Twin stick operation(F/R output independitly controlled)
32 spline front output
32 spline rear output
NO SLIP YOKE
Speedo port (TJ,Ford,and GM)
****Virtually indestructable*****



Like I said I'm willing to pay more the first time for good parts then have to spend alot more down the road to upgrade when weaker parts fail.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 1:34 pm 
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you guys sure know your stuff.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 5:37 pm 
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SFA doesn't snap at the ball joint
SFA doesn't snap at the ball joint
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tjkj2002 wrote:
Sport wrote:
I am sure there is a reason for it but why not keep the KJ transfer case?


231 t-case---------

Weaker chain drive
only 2.72:1 low range
26 spline front out put
Slip-yoke for the rear(can be changed but is it worth the extra $1000 to do it?)
No speedo port in the KJ case

AtlasII t-case--------

Gear to gear driven
4.3:1 low range
Twin stick operation(F/R output independitly controlled)
32 spline front output
32 spline rear output
NO SLIP YOKE
Speedo port (TJ,Ford,and GM)
****Virtually indestructable*****



Like I said I'm willing to pay more the first time for good parts then have to spend alot more down the road to upgrade when weaker parts fail.


Don't let him fool you with justifying it... He only got the Atlas because I have mine... :twisted: Then he one upped going to the Rock Jock vs my 9"

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 6:07 pm 
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Quote:
Don't let him fool you with justifying it... He only got the Atlas because I have mine... Then he one upped going to the Rock Jock vs my 9"
Well it was between the AtlasII or RockTrac :wink: (really wanted the Atlas 4-speed,even before you had yourAtlasII).My RockJock was cheaper then the 9" I was going to build :wink: .

Going to have to start your list sometime,budget SFA vs a bigger budget SFA.Could open alot of new aspects for others wanting to do a SFA.


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PostPosted: Thu Feb 21, 2008 6:26 pm 
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I think allyrands was the most "budget" oriented so far. It is actually a cool way to go about it. He now gets to spend money upgrading which can be a fun thing. I get almost as much enjoyment out of the build process as I do actually using my Jeeps. I love having a project going on.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 12:34 pm 
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JJsKJ wrote:
I think allyrands was the most "budget" oriented so far. It is actually a cool way to go about it. He now gets to spend money upgrading which can be a fun thing. I get almost as much enjoyment out of the build process as I do actually using my Jeeps. I love having a project going on.


Is there a break down somewhere on his SFA build up?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 1:18 pm 
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SFA doesn't snap at the ball joint
SFA doesn't snap at the ball joint
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JJsKJ wrote:
I think allyrands was the most "budget" oriented so far. It is actually a cool way to go about it. He now gets to spend money upgrading which can be a fun thing. I get almost as much enjoyment out of the build process as I do actually using my Jeeps. I love having a project going on.


Well, mine is going to be a budget project, but you will all have to wait for the list as I leave Wednesday, and have better things to do than stress about how much I have/will pay for parts. If Troy or Marty want to do the list, I do not mind, or once I get overthere, but any spare time I have will be spent on school I think.

Mine is using a lot of used/previous owner parts, here is so far:
D44 High pinion front $100 (used)
ARB $750 (new)
513 GearsW/install kit $ 215 (new)
Install gears/ARB $350
Chev Hi Steer Knukles $100 (Used ebay)
Ball joints, bearings, brakes and brackets will be same as troy (See above)
Warn lock outs $30 (previous owner never installed)

Ford 9" $ 75 (used)
ARB $775 (new)
513 GearsW/install kit $ 205 (new)
Install gears/ARB $250
Rear disc brake calipers from Nissan Maxima (e-brake)(??? Junkyard cores +new price)
Sammi rotors/disks (??? Junkyard cores +new price) ( I was shocked too, but others report good results, especially since most of stopping power comes from the front.

Will use standard u joints not 760s
Atlas II Tcase ($1850 Previous owner, never installed, includes new parts from advance adapters to convert from TH400 to 45RFE, cable shifters, TJ electronic speedo)
Custom drivelines (???)

Steering gear, Suspension and belly pan will be same as Troy.
1/4" Belly pan estimate (~$500-$700 prototype price from Manufacturer)
Dakota digital speedo adapter do not remember price (Previous owner, never used...thanks JJ)
Wheels so far $40 (used) Most likely will buy good wheels, but these will work for now (wagon wheel steels)
Tires (??? Whatever I find used or a good price... Steal Troy's Toyos :twisted: But that would add years in jail, so no)
Kilby gas tank skid $200 to door (new)
Exhaust hopefully >$600
And more RL secret stuff to make me street legal for WA DMV...

So I am saving money using some proven used upgrades from the cherokee guys, that Marty found when we started to put it all on paper a year ago, but this is still going to be expensive, thus why I have been collecting parts for a year or more to spread it out... That and deployment money will help too.
Like I said, next Fall/Winter, after it is all done, I will post like JJ did to try to compare Troy's cost to my cost to JJ's cost, then we will see how much deal finding and junkyard scrounging can really save you on this project, but it has to wait because of my "Vacation" :? Unless Troy wants to do the compare based on his finished project.

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 1:39 pm 
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Interesting you both just got your Kilby gas tank skids, I already have one so now all I need is .....well everything else, all the expensive stuff !

Thanks for the lists though , interesting to see everyones parts list and compare. It all works in the end, thats the great thing
My buddy still has my old 79 Ford F150 that I bought new and put I think 4.88s/ detroits in, keep thinking I need to buy it back and strip it for parts, or just mount the KJ body on top of the frame.... Hillbilly/Redneck Engineering at its best

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 2:18 pm 
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Sport wrote:
JJsKJ wrote:
I think allyrands was the most "budget" oriented so far. It is actually a cool way to go about it. He now gets to spend money upgrading which can be a fun thing. I get almost as much enjoyment out of the build process as I do actually using my Jeeps. I love having a project going on.


Is there a break down somewhere on his SFA build up?


Is Allyrand also known as Wally?

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 Post subject:
PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 10:42 pm 
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SFA doesn't snap at the ball joint
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Yep, it is he.

As for the 79 axle Tom, you would need to double check if it has the cast or welded radius arm mounts on it. I think 79 was the first of the cast (can't be cut off easy). No good for KJ set up. Unless you can build it for the ford radius arms.

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 10:51 pm 
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USAFCOP wrote:
Yep, it is he.

As for the 79 axle Tom, you would need to double check if it has the cast or welded radius arm mounts on it. I think 79 was the first of the cast (CAN'T BE CUT OFF UNLESS YOU RE-TUBE THE AXLE). No good for KJ set up. Unless you can build it for the ford radius arms.
Fixed it for you.


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 22, 2008 11:00 pm 
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I thought mine were welded, it was one of the first off the line for 79 models, but will have to check it out next week, thanks for the info!

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PostPosted: Sat Jul 25, 2009 4:03 pm 
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TTT

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 11:18 am 
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Wow, thats $4500 on the front axle. Lot of premium parts your adding. :D

I found a 76 F150 front axle complete end to end. That year had disk brakes so I'm thinking I could get away with just the following from your list.

New Rotors and pads $150
New gears 4.88's $200
Gear install kit $100
ARB Locker $750
Crane High Steer Knuckles $200
Warn Premium Lockouts $100
Riddler D44 cover $100
TJ mount kit $200
Crane High Steer arm $150
Brake Lines $100
------------------------------------------
Parts $2150
Labor $500

Anything I missed?

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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 5:10 pm 
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bugnout wrote:
Wow, thats $4500 on the front axle. Lot of premium parts your adding. :D

I found a 76 F150 front axle complete end to end. That year had disk brakes so I'm thinking I could get away with just the following from your list.

New Rotors and pads $150
New gears 4.88's $200
Gear install kit $100
ARB Locker $750
Crane High Steer Knuckles $200
Warn Premium Lockouts $100
Riddler D44 cover $100
TJ mount kit $200
Crane High Steer arm $150
Brake Lines $100
------------------------------------------
Parts $2150
Labor $500

Anything I missed?
Well if you want to run the Crane knuckles you will need to swap in Chevy small bearing spindles,brake caliper mounts,Chevy brake calipers,and Chevy outer stub axles since that is the only items that fit on those knuckles,Complete Offroad has new Chevy small bearing spindles.While your at it you will need new balljoints(about $180 from Napa),new hub seals/bearings(about $120 from Napa),and the inner axle seals do not come with any gear install kit and a good idea to replace when it's torn apart(about $40 from Napa).Then you go new axle u-joints also,the Spicer 760's are about $25 each(I used CTM's with lifetime warranty for $450 for the pair).So your kinda still low on the $$ for parts,now don't think this is trying to scare you away but building a full width front axle is pricey to start out but cheaper to maintain since most of the parts are lifetime warranty if bought through places like Napa.


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PostPosted: Tue Aug 04, 2009 6:03 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
bugnout wrote:
Wow, thats $4500 on the front axle. Lot of premium parts your adding. :D

I found a 76 F150 front axle complete end to end. That year had disk brakes so I'm thinking I could get away with just the following from your list.

New Rotors and pads $150
New gears 4.88's $200
Gear install kit $100
ARB Locker $750
Crane High Steer Knuckles $200
Warn Premium Lockouts $100
Riddler D44 cover $100
TJ mount kit $200
Crane High Steer arm $150
Brake Lines $100
------------------------------------------
Parts $2150
Labor $500

Anything I missed?
Well if you want to run the Crane knuckles you will need to swap in Chevy small bearing spindles,brake caliper mounts,Chevy brake calipers,and Chevy outer stub axles since that is the only items that fit on those knuckles,Complete Offroad has new Chevy small bearing spindles.While your at it you will need new balljoints(about $180 from Napa),new hub seals/bearings(about $120 from Napa),and the inner axle seals do not come with any gear install kit and a good idea to replace when it's torn apart(about $40 from Napa).Then you go new axle u-joints also,the Spicer 760's are about $25 each(I used CTM's with lifetime warranty for $450 for the pair).So your kinda still low on the $$ for parts,now don't think this is trying to scare you away but building a full width front axle is pricey to start out but cheaper to maintain since most of the parts are lifetime warranty if bought through places like Napa.


OK, the seals and bearings make sense as does the u-joints. Besides swapping out the spindles, what are my options for high steer components? The 76-77 year axle is already setup for disks, thought I could take advantage of that and use the stock Ford parts.

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