What would it cost to just get a SFA D30 under the front of my KJ?

Strategy, Only replace what I have to, use what I have.
Assumption. I can keep the transfer case and rear 8.25 axle.

HP Reverse cut D30 from a late 90's XJ with ABS - $800-$1500 built with alloy axles and some upgrades.
ARB for the D30 - $800 (already got one)
Front Coil Over kit $500
New drive shafts $500
4:56 gears front and back $500
Nth degree kit - $3000 (is this the only route, the best route?) how about a custom 4 link system front and back? What has everyone else done?)

Install and fabrication 80 hours at $80 an hour - $6400

Total budget: $13000.00

Compared to about $5000.00 for a 6" IFS lift installed

Does this seem a reasonable estimate?
Am I missing some critical parts?
Does going with an HP D44 up front add to the cost much? (need a new front locker at minimum)

All comments welcome.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

Don't forget new steering box and all the linkages involved,about $700-$1000.Oh and if you want the alloy axles in the HP30 you can kiss the ABS goodbye from what I understand since new unit bearings will be needed that don't come with ABS provisions.Oh and the price of the Nth kit is going up(how much I don't know) since it is no longer Nth but AEV,you don't need the Nth/AEV kit anyway unless you really wnat F/R long arm kit,you can go with the Rubicon Express long arms also,but a custom bellypan will be needed(we're working on them),the RE arms are only about $1200 for the full set.

Adding a HP44 up front will add alot of cost since it is 7" wider then the HP30,you'd need to cut it down(custom axles then,$$$$$)to match the 8.25 in the rear,or swap the rear axle for a full width axle.But then again the early Bronco's used shorter HP44's but are getting hard to find in good condition.

Would he even have to replace all that to really do a SFA swap???
I've always wondered about a budget SFA swap. I remember Marty (Rock Lizard) posting about it awhile ago. He mention possibly trying a leaf-sprung setup! That idea seems really awesome IMO, and definitely unique.
Couldn't you do the SFA-swap up front, knowing you're going to have to at least throw a couple grand at it...and then get what you need from Jeepin' By Al to put the 8.25" at 6-8" inches of lift? I think the rear alone, including the new driveshaft, would be ~$1500. Would the driveline angles be too extreme for the stock T-case? I would only go 33s probably, maybe skinnier 34s.

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2003 Limited, Silver - L.O.S.T. # 068957 Rockies
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2127390/14
2006 Kawasaki KLR650

once i get my plasma cutter fixed and returned i can get my project up and going "again"...i do not want to get into details now, but right now i'm sitting still with the rear 80 % done and the front 10% done this is a budget build and most the stuff i have is used or custom...

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02 Jeep TJ Sahara, 33's locked up front
03 SAS KJ 0n 35ish boggers(Sold )
Petersens 4wheel: http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/featuredve ... index.html

I'd like to keep ABS so I guess I won't considering D44 or alloy axles if that prohibits it.

I assume the belly pan is the mounting points for the RE arms so its probably going to be well engineered and beefy.

If I didn't replace anything in the back, just added JBA's 6 inch components I would need:

$60 for the center link extension
$112 for the LCA mounts
$370 for the lower control arms
$200 for the springs
$80 for the 6" over shocks
Total $822 for the rear end in parts plus fabrication.

Compared to about
$600 for the RE arms
$80 for new shocks
$250 for new rear drive shaft
(need the belly pan anyway for the front)
Total $930 plus fabrication.

Looks almost a wash.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

Another way,as ohv kj has stated,is to use all used parts,I can see that saving money in the short term.

I personally preferr to use all new parts(only 1 part is used in my SFA swap,just the HP44 housing,all new guts),yes it's more expensive to begin with but most of my parts also have lifetime replacement guarantee,so my tie rod ends,ball joints,bearings,rotors,pads,steering gear,front HP44 inner/outer axles,and all those type of parts I will never have to buy again,saving money in the long run.Plus I went a little overkill to stem off breaking parts,I hope for a long time.But that's just my personal preference.

For the rear, it would probably be best to do a SYE when you do that new driveshaft. That should help eliminate some of the vibes problem.

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David
Bel Air,Md
2003 KJ Patriot Blue Sport w/mods R.I.P.
2005 Wrangler Unlimited not so stock
L.O.S.T. #082670
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/803306
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2399643
More mods planned than money.
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"Roads, where we're going we don't need roads."

for threar i did the JBA 8 inch springs and y-link relocator...doing custom long arms and extending the drive shaft...all this works well...if your going on the highway i would do a sye and new drivshaft...that's not the entire rear and somethings will change but i save a bundle on doing that

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02 Jeep TJ Sahara, 33's locked up front
03 SAS KJ 0n 35ish boggers(Sold )
Petersens 4wheel: http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/featuredve ... index.html

Parts List:
HP Reverse cut D30 from a late 90's XJ with ABS - $800
ARB Locker for D30 $800
Compressor $250
Front Coil Over kit $500
Rear Shocks and Springs $300
New front drive shaft $200
Slip Yoke Eliminator for NP242 with Drive shaft $500
4:56 gears front and back $500
RE Long Arms $1200
Rock Lizard Custom Belly Pan $1000 ??
Parts Total: $6150.00

Install and fabrication 80 hours at $80 an hour - $6400
Total Budget $12,650.00

Since I already have the ARB and compressor for the D30, parts total a nice round $5000.00

Compare that to $3250.00 for the JBA 4" lift for the CRD. Labor for the SFA is going to be much higher because of all the FAB, but considering the end result, may well be worth the money and effort.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

Anyone want to guesstimate what the lowest you can go with a setup like this?

4" over stock?

I'd like to keep the CG low, don't really want to run anything over 33's, but still have the option to take it up later.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

I would go at least 5"-6" of total lift,not including tires,to minimize the chance of rub with 33" tires,you'd need at least 8" for anything bigger using 60" WMS to WMS axles.I'm guessing that Wally,ARBSeth,and JJ are at about 8"-10" with there lifts.I'm shooting for 7" of lift for my SFA swap but full width axles(67" and 65" WMS to WMS) will help with the rubbing issue for me,and those custom tube flares and some sawzall action .

Once you see how much room you need for the front suspension & steering you will quickly realize that you are limited on how low you can go and Still have any up travel.

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99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal

BTW, A lot of the uptravel problem is not becauseof rubbing tires but because the axle will hit the "frame" when flexed..

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99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal

[quote="bugnout"]Parts List:
HP Reverse cut D30 from a late 90's XJ with ABS - $800
quote]


i found my hp30 for 125.00...you just have to search...not including gears, carrier, and paint job...that's nothing

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02 Jeep TJ Sahara, 33's locked up front
03 SAS KJ 0n 35ish boggers(Sold )
Petersens 4wheel: http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/featuredve ... index.html

jj i have about 8 and i could run maybe run 35's...i have the same fox coilovers as you...i think 6 wuld be best

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02 Jeep TJ Sahara, 33's locked up front
03 SAS KJ 0n 35ish boggers(Sold )
Petersens 4wheel: http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/featuredve ... index.html

My current measurments:
I have 305/70-16's which are right at 33".

Hub to flare front and rear is about 27.25"

Flare to ground is about 42.5"

Boulderbars to ground is 22.5"

Compare to the figures folks are posting for their IFS lifts will give you an idea of where I'm at. Based on a post I just read it looks like I am 10" over stock on the ww measurements.

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99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal

Must be nice,I paid about $150 for my HP44,stripped it then tossed everything but the housing,then $4400 later it's complete and will handle over 37" tires with ease with my driving style.

ohv-kj, do you have any pics of your build up?

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David
Bel Air,Md
2003 KJ Patriot Blue Sport w/mods R.I.P.
2005 Wrangler Unlimited not so stock
L.O.S.T. #082670
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/803306
http://www.cardomain.com/ride/2399643
More mods planned than money.
-----------------

"Roads, where we're going we don't need roads."

well i was going to take pics of the whole build first then put them up...right now i'm waiting for the plasma cutter head to get fixed, it broke, and we are already a week behind...so i have be busy tring to get other things done w/ out it which is pretty hard when doing a 85% custom job...don't worrie there will be somthing on it when it is done...i might start a thread starting early next week or somthing

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02 Jeep TJ Sahara, 33's locked up front
03 SAS KJ 0n 35ish boggers(Sold )
Petersens 4wheel: http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/featuredve ... index.html

Hows it going? Any progress or at least get your plasma fixed?

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99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal