Axles Question

jsc7002 · **Posted:** Thu Jun 05, 2008 11:16 pm

I found a HP D44 but I was wondering if it is the same width as the 8.25" or would the 8.25" need to be replaced too? and if it does what axles would work with the 8.25" other than the HP D30?

thanks

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2008 12:33 am

jsc7002 wrote:

I found a HP D44 but I was wondering if it is the same width as the 8.25" or would the 8.25" need to be replaced too? and if it does what axles would work with the 8.25" other than the HP D30?

thanks

What is it out of? Chances are it is wider than the KJ rear.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2008 7:31 am

If it's from a early Bronco or a Wagoneer it will be about 58"-60" WMS to WMS(just a tad wider then the 8.25),if from a F100-F250 it will be 67"-69" WMS to WMS.You can't use one from a Chevy due to it being a passenger side drop and you need a drivers side drop.And certian years of the F seris HP44's have the cast wedges that are part of the tube and can not be removed,(1978's) and the others are welded on.Most are drum brakes so you need to covert to disc which mostly means you need to use some Chevy parts and some Ford parts to get front disc brakes,ans so on and so on.

Fulltimer · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2008 8:01 am

You know what would be nice? A sticky list of what front/back axles would fit a KJ without too much expense. A list without a bunch of comments.

Terry

jsc7002 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2008 11:23 am

Fulltimer wrote:

You know what would be nice? A sticky list of what front/back axles would fit a KJ without too much expense. A list without a bunch of comments.

Terry

yes it would lol

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2008 1:14 pm

jsc7002 wrote:

Fulltimer wrote:

You know what would be nice? A sticky list of what front/back axles would fit a KJ without too much expense. A list without a bunch of comments.

Terry

yes it would lol

Well then, The cheapest choice is a High Pinion Dana 30 out of an early to mid 90's XJ and for the rear, just leave the 8.25 in the rear and regear.

From there, the cost just goes up and up depending on what you do to those diffs or which other ones you choose.

You start getting into having to cut off most of the factory brackets and welding on new ones when you go to diffs out of other sources and/or what type of suspension you are running. The HPD30 is pretty close to bolt in (to the suspension) if running the Nth system and some others that utilize the stock front control arm mounting points. The 8.25 still has the tone wheel and just needs a long arm rear suspension fabbed up which can be "simple" and "cheap" or complicated and expensive.

I can think of several diffs that could be used but to figure out in order of expense would be tough since there are variables to consider such as suspension, fabrication, cost of initial purchase (varies by market), mods to those particular diffs, whos doing the work, etc, etc.

KJ Taz · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2008 1:31 pm

I guess I will ask my question here. Would the front and rear axles out of my Rubi work? Would they be wide enough? I am hoping for the Rubi to go through a transformation next year and I would have these sitting around.

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2008 2:03 pm

KJ Taz wrote:

I guess I will ask my question here. Would the front and rear axles out of my Rubi work? Would they be wide enough? I am hoping for the Rubi to go through a transformation next year and I would have these sitting around.

Yes. I had a set I was going to use. Ended up selling them off when I changed my mind the 1st time around but keeping the transfer case I had. Only downside to them is that they are low pinion, Not a huge deal since you can get some Nth sliders for them which helps.

KJ Taz · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2008 2:16 pm

Thank you for the reply. This is good to know and might help speed things along. I guess now is a good time to start getting the planning process going.

Fulltimer · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2008 2:26 pm

Quote:

JJsKJ

Well then, The cheapest choice is a High Pinion Dana 30 out of an early to mid 90's XJ and for the rear, just leave the 8.25 in the rear and regear.

From there, the cost just goes up and up depending on what you do to those diffs or which other ones you choose.

You start getting into having to cut off most of the factory brackets and welding on new ones when you go to diffs out of other sources and/or what type of suspension you are running. The HPD30 is pretty close to bolt in (to the suspension) if running the Nth system and some others that utilize the stock front control arm mounting points. The 8.25 still has the tone wheel and just needs a long arm rear suspension fabbed up which can be "simple" and "cheap" or complicated and expensive.

I can think of several diffs that could be used but to figure out in order of expense would be tough since there are variables to consider such as suspension, fabrication, cost of initial purchase (varies by market), mods to those particular diffs, who's doing the work, etc, etc.

That is what I was talking about. I would like to get a better front differential and leave the rest alone. When people look at the SFA and see all the $$$ people are spending it could give them the wrong idea. It's my understanding that certain Ford units will work also. If all of this info was grouped together under a sticky called Front Axel Swaps, or something like that, it would be very helpful to people.

Terry

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2008 4:01 pm

Fulltimer wrote:

Quote:

JJsKJ

Well then, The cheapest choice is a High Pinion Dana 30 out of an early to mid 90's XJ and for the rear, just leave the 8.25 in the rear and regear.

From there, the cost just goes up and up depending on what you do to those diffs or which other ones you choose.

You start getting into having to cut off most of the factory brackets and welding on new ones when you go to diffs out of other sources and/or what type of suspension you are running. The HPD30 is pretty close to bolt in (to the suspension) if running the Nth system and some others that utilize the stock front control arm mounting points. The 8.25 still has the tone wheel and just needs a long arm rear suspension fabbed up which can be "simple" and "cheap" or complicated and expensive.

I can think of several diffs that could be used but to figure out in order of expense would be tough since there are variables to consider such as suspension, fabrication, cost of initial purchase (varies by market), mods to those particular diffs, who's doing the work, etc, etc.

That is what I was talking about. I would like to get a better front differential and leave the rest alone. When people look at the SFA and see all the $$$ people are spending it could give them the wrong idea. It's my understanding that certain Ford units will work also. If all of this info was grouped together under a sticky called Front Axel Swaps, or something like that, it would be very helpful to people.

Terry

Problem is leaving the 8.25 in there w/ a better front axle making it the weak link.
The D30 if properly built is Plenty for 33"'s on a KJ. Add some alloys axles w/ full circle clip u-joints and it is pretty strong, run hubs and probably never break an axle. There are plenty of folks running similar combos on heavy rigs w/ 35's and no problems. But like anything else, no matter what you run you can find a breaking point so where does it end.......oh wait.....talking Jeeps here, IT NEVER ENDS!

allyrand has been running a fairly stock front HPD30 for a couple years now on his SFA w/ stock axle shafts even and the only thing he has broken was a rear driveshaft so he drove home in FWD on the D30. Now he has hubs and still working fine on stock shafts. His 8.25 is holding up well too on stock shafts.

AFAIC, allyrands is about as close to "budget" as you can get considering the stock parts he still runs. Along the way he has made upgrades so it can only get better. (now if he would just wheel it instead of driving it to the mall all the time :twisted:

)

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2008 4:08 pm

BTW, I don't get this statement at all.

Quote:

When people look at the SFA and see all the $$$ people are spending it could give them the wrong idea.

huh? What wrong idea can you get from a HPD30 front axle? So if I go to D60's or similar and then Don't run 40" tires on it and run trails where the boulders are as big as my Jeep won't people also get the wrong idea?

Build it for what You need and screw what anyone else thinks.

spencevans · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2008 4:20 pm

If I were going to do this swap I would go with new JK Rubicon axles from Mopar Performance. They are much larger than a 44, they are high pinion, and they come with Brakes and a locker for around $1400 each. That's a really sweet deal for that axle. Also they are only 62" from WMS to WMS.

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2008 4:35 pm

spencevans wrote:

If I were going to do this swap I would go with new JK Rubicon axles from Mopar Performance. They are much larger than a 44, they are high pinion, and they come with Brakes and a locker for around $1400 each. That's a really sweet deal for that axle. Also they are only 62" from WMS to WMS.

But I thought Seth (ARBSeth) said there were some problems with the bearings on those? Somewhere I remember that

Fulltimer · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2008 4:50 pm

JJsKJ wrote:

BTW, I don't get this statement at all.

Quote:

When people look at the SFA and see all the $$$ people are spending it could give them the wrong idea.

huh? What wrong idea can you get from a HPD30 front axle? So if I go to D60's or similar and then Don't run 40" tires on it and run trails where the boulders are as big as my Jeep won't people also get the wrong idea?

Build it for what You need and screw what anyone else thinks.

I guess I should have explained what I was thinking. If someone was looking to ONLY do the front axel and saw the thread on SFA, where they are doing the rears and for the most part doing a first class job, they might think that they HAVE to go that route. Real good parts instead of just good parts. Does that make any sense? Not what others think. I couldn't care less what anyone else thinks. :lol:

Terry

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2008 4:54 pm

There have also been instances of cracking axle tubes on teh JK D44's especially the fronts. If the bearing and tube isses were addressed, then they would certainly be a good choice for the money.
Prior to them becoming available to buy new I had a line on a set of takeoffs from a JK that was gettting D60's. Glad I ended up w/ what I have though as my speedo works and I feel they are strong enough to last a while.

KJ Taz · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2008 4:57 pm

This is one of those areas I would have to do a ton of research and then form my own plan of attack. I need to spend some more time in the SFA threads. I will probably even do some research on what people have done with other types of vehicles as well.

JJsTJ · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2008 5:08 pm

KJ Taz wrote:

This is one of those areas I would have to do a ton of research and then form my own plan of attack. I need to spend some more time in the SFA threads. I will probably even do some research on what people have done with other types of vehicles as well.

Good idea. There are many different ways you could go. You should also consider other vehicles if you are not 100% Set on the KJ. There are definately cheaper ways to end up w/ a similar capable vehicle.

Inc · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2008 6:18 pm

JJsKJ wrote:

KJ Taz wrote:

This is one of those areas I would have to do a ton of research and then form my own plan of attack. I need to spend some more time in the SFA threads. I will probably even do some research on what people have done with other types of vehicles as well.

Good idea. There are many different ways you could go. You should also consider other vehicles if you are not 100% Set on the KJ. There are definately cheaper ways to end up w/ a similar capable vehicle.

Amen to that! This guy I know got a screming deal on a 98 TJ with 39" Iroks, Front Dana 60/Ford 9 hybrid axle, and rear Dana 60 for less than most guys on here have put into their KJ SFA project. And it is one serious trail jeep. :twisted:

There are just so many options to get into its ridiculous. But if you are set on a SFA KJ do it. Its your jeep and no one else's and you can enjoy the results regardless of anyone else. :wink:

tommudd · **Posted:** Fri Jun 06, 2008 6:30 pm

incubusmike wrote:

JJsKJ wrote:

KJ Taz wrote:

This is one of those areas I would have to do a ton of research and then form my own plan of attack. I need to spend some more time in the SFA threads. I will probably even do some research on what people have done with other types of vehicles as well.

Good idea. There are many different ways you could go. You should also consider other vehicles if you are not 100% Set on the KJ. There are definately cheaper ways to end up w/ a similar capable vehicle.

Amen to that! This guy I know got a screming deal on a 98 TJ with 39" Iroks, Front Dana 60/Ford 9 hybrid axle, and rear Dana 60 for less than most guys on here have put into their KJ SFA project. And it is one serious trail jeep. :twisted:

There are just so many options to get into its ridiculous. But if you are set on a SFA KJ do it. Its your jeep and no one else's and you can enjoy the results regardless of anyone else. :wink:

So the guy you know that got the 98 TJ, I would guess it is red? :twisted:

I would still rather build my own, that way I know how its been done, what may or may not go wrong and plus have one of a few in the world. Anyone can do a Wrangler/TJ / Rubicon but few have the _____ to do a KJ!

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