xxx

I don't recall ALL J having any problems hooking the steering shaft to the box on 3 different SFA's they have built so far.

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99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal

if thats the case then ill go with traditional steering box... but i thought i remembered reading in a post that they had trouble routing it... what about hoses from steering pump etc.. anyone know if there a straight hook up or need adapters?

als i guess ill ad an e series van steering box to my deal or a bronco two... now the question i should be abel to use thier pitman arm right? just maybe straight drill it for a heim on the drag link....

Stock pitman on mine, No drop. Uses a standard Ford end on the drag link. Sure I can get the details on it.

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99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal

not sure about the three link set up...your keeping the rear axle.? need the y-link reallocator for that unless your doing a new rear 4 link as well then i would just upgrade axles too

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02 Jeep TJ Sahara, 33's locked up front
03 SAS KJ 0n 35ish boggers(Sold )
Petersens 4wheel: http://www.4wheeloffroad.com/featuredve ... index.html

whats unsure about the three link?

and yes i was thinking of keeping rear parts for eas now then next trip home i will do the rear up better to match front probly weld on axle truss and move up to johnny joint rear instead of the big ball joint... and i think i will use relocator or make one... then just rebuild stock trilink oout of tube so i can adjust pinion angle from top....

oh and i d appreciate any info on your steering setup you could get me... if the lines will hook up or only need a simple fitting thatd be swell.. but if its soemthing time consuming ill have to stick with the rack and pinion conversion....

also am keeping rear axle because of the speedo issues... again ive only got a weeks build time and dont want to jack with all the different issues there... ohterwise id go bigger tires and maybe full widths but for 33s the rear axles more then strong enough and im sure with my light foot itd survive under much more power and tire then im gonna give it...

You might want to rethink the whole 3-link setup unless it's going to be a trail only Jeep,Go for a 5-link setup.Make sure if you use long arms up front you need to make the rear a long arm setup or some funny handling will result.

Disco D30 huh? Just my 2 cents but you may want to rethink that also and get a a regular HP30 from a XJ(which will be much stronger) and put the WARN lockout's on it.


4.56's are the lowest you can go if your keeping the rear 8.25 diff,anything over 33" tires you'd want a lower gear ratio(4.88's for 34" tires would be about perfect),more so if your keeping the stock t-case.

Don't set your build time,there's plenty of little things that will drag it out,2-3 weeks sounds more resenable.Some parts will need the axles on so you can get measurements,like driveshafts,brake lines,and shocks.

xxx

ok got some more parts....

Hd crossover steering

3/8 diff cover for 8.25

shocks from jba for 6 inch lift will move shock mounts to top of axle so theyll be good for 8 inches im shooting for

1.5 inch wheel spacer to go with my moab rims

8 inch rear springs from jba

y link relocator by jba

the extended bumpstops from jba for rear.

still looking for good deal on steering box but may wind up going to junkyard so i can take all the ammenities as well...

my buddy is supposed to email me pics then ill post them.

Buy a rebuilt Bronco II box. No telling how worn out of a box you will get form a yard and steering is pretty important. Only bummer is the usual core charge will get ya so it won't be cheap. (but ya get what ya pay for)
Unless you feel up to rebuilding an old box.

Cool to see another one being worked on. I really never expected so many to start up so soon.

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99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal

a YJ weighs what, 1500 lbs less than a KJ? and a YJ on 33s weighs probably 2,000 lb less than an SFA KJ on 33s?



you'll spend over a grand to do a 4:1 transfer case, but you don't want to spend $1200 on lockouts?

doing the y link relocator and 8 inch springs?? lots of ??? on this one, I really think you need to sit down and think what you want in the end and then get all the right parts before you start, You are going to end up with a ill handeling POS on wheels if you do what you say.
Hate to harsh on anyone who is trying to build their dream vehicle but also want you to be safe as well. From what I see it will not be at this time

and the three link ???
I know you stated that you are only home 30 days at a time, try and build it so those 30 days are not spend working on repairing weak parts

Tom

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

ok gotcha loud and clear on the wieght difference ... its deffinitely somethign to be considered.... ofcourse now the stock differential is weaker though and i ran 33s with it though skinnier and had noe real troubles but againw asnt locked then ... or doing as hard a wheeling as i probly will get myself into now lol..
ill keep my eyes out for a later model dana 30 .. i migth even know where to get one...

as far as the lockouts 1200 dollars is way to much when the onyl reason i want to disconnect is to save a little on gas .
plus if i was gonna spend 1200 dollars id just throw another 300 in and buy a jk dana 44 rubicon axle and be donewith it. the dana 30 is just a cheeper and still functional alternative.

also i will eventually go 4to1 or i was reading about aa's new box to put behind your auto tranny which might be even better. depending on price which i think id do instead.

now again im at a loss for why the 3 link is no good as noone has said anything factuall about why... like the guy did about the wieght on the front dana 30 . theres a great deal of mythology in building or doign anythign and its never good to do soemthign or not do it just because soemone says no. if they dont have som facts or hey you shouldnt do that because of a b and c reasons then they probly dont really know what theyre saying or they dotn want to take the time to explain it properly.

now the rear relocator and 8 inch springs i have given some thoguth to and heres the ultimate plan. firs ti will simply hook it up with the springs and lwer rear long arms. and see how it works . but i suspect what ill wind up having to do. and soemthing id thought of long ago was to build a new trilink using stock bushings and joint but out of tubing with about a two inch drop or as much as nescessery in the tubing at the joint end to keep it all level at rest allowing full range of motion formt eh ball joint. this link relocator is for 6 inches and with my bunmper ill only get about 7 and a half inches out of springs so it shouldnt be that out of wack anyway and with some weaking it will be fine.

now next r&r i will be building an axle truss and three or foulinking the rear and anew. but this time time is limited and the frotn will take most of it.

ive also been looking at the rack and pinion steering again and think i will just try the aussie conversion on it ... something about it just rubs me the right way.. plus it will be much quicker then the other i suspect. as ill simply trim down my crossover steering build the bracket as they have... and then a track barand be done.

ok gotcha loud and clear on the wieght difference ... its deffinitely somethign to be considered.... ofcourse now the stock differential is weaker though and i ran 33s with it though skinnier and had noe real troubles but againw asnt locked then ... or doing as hard a wheeling as i probly will get myself into now lol..
ill keep my eyes out for a later model dana 30 .. i migth even know where to get one...

as far as the lockouts 1200 dollars is way to much when the onyl reason i want to disconnect is to save a little on gas .
plus if i was gonna spend 1200 dollars id just throw another 300 in and buy a jk dana 44 rubicon axle and be donewith it. the dana 30 is just a cheeper and still functional alternative.

also i will eventually go 4to1 or i was reading about aa's new box to put behind your auto tranny which might be even better. depending on price which i think id do instead.

now again im at a loss for why the 3 link is no good as noone has said anything factuall about why... like the guy did about the wieght on the front dana 30 . theres a great deal of mythology in building or doign anythign and its never good to do soemthign or not do it just because soemone says no. if they dont have som facts or hey you shouldnt do that because of a b and c reasons then they probly dont really know what theyre saying or they dotn want to take the time to explain it properly.

now the rear relocator and 8 inch springs i have given some thoguth to and heres the ultimate plan. firs ti will simply hook it up with the springs and lwer rear long arms. and see how it works . but i suspect what ill wind up having to do. and soemthing id thought of long ago was to build a new trilink using stock bushings and joint but out of tubing with about a two inch drop or as much as nescessery in the tubing at the joint end to keep it all level at rest allowing full range of motion formt eh ball joint. this link relocator is for 6 inches and with my bunmper ill only get about 7 and a half inches out of springs so it shouldnt be that out of wack anyway and with some weaking it will be fine.

now next r&r i will be building an axle truss and three or foulinking the rear and anew. but this time time is limited and the frotn will take most of it.

ive also been looking at the rack and pinion steering again and think i will just try the aussie conversion on it ... something about it just rubs me the right way.. plus it will be much quicker then the other i suspect. as ill simply trim down my crossover steering build the bracket as they have... and then a track barand be done.

The on-rosd handling will be terrible and unsafe if used in any DD use,a 3-link setup is also weaker then a proper 4 or 5 link setup.A 4 link setup is not a good handler either if used in any DD use but far better then a 3 link.Go to a 5 link and be done with it,better handling,better articulation,and much safier if used as a DD.

Oh and the vacu-disco D30 is a weak version of the D30,get a non vacu-disco HP30,lockouts is up to you but well worth the money and not for any gas savings either.

xxx

xxx

xxx

Dang photobucket blocked at work! I gotta wait all day to see whats in those pics!

_________________
99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal