Ok I'm the owner of Performance Innovations, the shop that did the solid axle swap on the black liberty in the picture. Someone sent me the link to this
discussion and I figured I might as well join in, there are 2 sides to every story right?
I'm not trying to start internet fights or anything here(i have better things to do than argue on internet forums), I'm just trying to get the facts out and promote my business.
I had done alot of work to the black liberty previously to the SAS, I replaced and regeared the front diff and rearend, added a locker, fabricated some stuff (that he took credit for WTF?)blah blah.
Well next up was the SAS, James wanted to do the swap for as cheap as possible(first problem and I should have turned it away right then), hence all the BUDGET BUILD this and budget that, well I'm sorry to burst everyones' bubble but you get what you pay for. This was the first Liberty Solid axle swap i had done (he was aware of that) and I knew there would be some problems that would need to be fixed after it was all said and done. Another problem we had was the time frame, I underquoted the time and labor for this project, and then to top it off my plasma cutter broke when I first started working on this jeep and it took 2 or 3 weeks to get the parts in to fix it. I had scheduled the time frame to work on this jeep because I was very busy and when it got bumped back 2 weeks it threw all my other projects off and just wasn't a really good experience for both of us. As far as fixing problems that exsisted after I did the work... I ALWAYS fix things that aren't right after doing work, there are always little issues when doing these type of projects(especially when its the first one!) and I am always more than willing to fix them on my dime to make it right.....
But james's situation was a little different, I'll just give one example because I'm not wanting to argue on internet forums, The coilovers were rubbing the side of the body because the upper mounts needed to be moved outboards about a 1/2". He wanted me to do them the morning I was leaving for MY vacation and I said I couldn't because it wouldn't be a 5 min ordeal, So james went on to get all pissy like a little girl and do a big burnout in my parking lot, throwing rocks and gravel all over my other customers cars, that was the last time i heard from him and he decided to go to the other shop in town and pay twice as much for everything to get redone so he could bad mouth me any time he could. Thats cool and all but I am always more than willing to make everything right if I work on it. So lessons learned here: 1 You get what you pay for, and 2 don't be a dickhead. I work on ALOT of high dollar builds and vehicles, most projects are at least 2-6 months and usually $20,000 and up. I did James' for so cheap because it was the first one, a learning experience and I was helping him out because I did a bunch of other work for him before and he was also supposedly going to become a cop in town and everyone likes having a cop friend(i get my share of speeding tickets)
Now on to the details of my service's and the liberty SAS conversion.
I have done another Liberty solid axle swap since the black one and things are fabricated and setup slightly differently in each one. I believe I have a pretty bullet proof plan and setup
My price of $6,000 includes the complete solid axle swap in the front, and the rear lift. I use a XJ Cherokee front axle, so its a dana 30 high pinion and they
are available in 3.73 and 4.10 so I wouldn't have to regear to match unless you have a different ratio. The front suspension is going to be a modified radius arm type link setup. It will have triangulated end links that pivot on Johnny Joints on the frame side(or whatever kind of joint you want to use) Using the triangulated links allows us to not have to use a trac bar. The steering uses the stock jeep solid axle drag links and tie rod ends, the Chevy astro steering box is mounted to the inside of the frame and the rails are plated inside and out and connected together with DOM tubing(this area was a problem on the black liberty, I have addressed this strength issue and corrected it for future swaps).
The rear lift is accomplished with 8" lift springs, new rancho shocks and a link extension similar to this one
http://jeepinbyal.com/cat-Rear_Shocks_a ... ngs-8.aspx Except mine is boxed in on the sides to give it way more strenght (another problem on the black liberty, I didn't make them tho, he bought them from AL and they broke) I also extend and fully box in the lower control arms to correct the pinion angle which gets changed because of the lift. You don't need a SYE elimnator on these jeeps, the driveshafts are long enough to not have problems with them flying out like on wranglers with little short shafts. If you don't like this rear suspension setup we could always do a custom link setup using the triangulated upper joint and longer lower control arms. Thats about it for the swap, there are a couple other things like brake lines, steering shaft adapter, and power steering lines, but I am now equipped to make those in house to get the costs way down. I build you a new front driveshaft, using the Cherokee yoke and I swap the front output on your transfer case to a non CV style YJ/TJ yoke ( i have a pile of these yokes sitting on my shelf) Also the exhaust has to be wrapped down and under the front driveshaft because there is no room on top if you want to reuse the rest of your factory exhaust, it is possible the we could build a new custom exhaust system that would run the exhaust back on top/beside the tcase and totally out of the way of the exhaust.
Like i said there are many options.
Now I will break the prices down just to show everyone that a $6000 Solid front axle swap is possible in your Liberty, and its not too good to be true, and i'm not trying to rip anyone off
Here are the parts costs:
Coilovers and springs approx $750 (thats for 2 Fox 2.0 coilovers and 4 springs)
Dana 30 front axle used with either 3.73 or 4.10, they all have TRE's, drag link and pitman arm $150, i have a pile of these things I have been accumulating for awhile
Rear springs and shocks approx $300
Joints for suspension approx $200
New Chevy Astro Steering box $180
Assorted hardware and steering adapter $100
Custom driveshaft and balancing $180
Thats pretty much it, other than the steel and tubing used(i have alot of steel, i don't calculate how much yours will take excactly but I have plenty to go around)
SO our parts add up to approx $2000 give or take a few hundred dollars, I'm sure I left something off the list and someone will chime in and correct me. Again I DON"T use all brand new parts, the axle and steering links are used but still in great condition, and i also have axle's the have factory gearing that will match your liberty so I don't have to regear the axle, thats where the money is saved. The rest of the price is labor. My labor rate is $60 an hour
and I spend 60-70 hours doing the work. They get done a little quicker everytime I do a new one. As far as time goes, I will complete the swap as listed in 3 weeks at the most, unless we add a bunch more work or something unexpected happens, ie: coil overs get backordered for ever, we get invaded by china, asteroid hits the earth, etc.
Again the $6000 price tag isn't an end all be all price, it is possible tho, you can add more options if you want (ie lockers, thicker custom steering links, different rear suspension setup, rear gearing and lockers)
So if anyone has any questions feel free to PM me or give me a call and we can talk about it 910-515-4762
Also everyone has bad experiences at shops, or any other type of business, no one is perfect and you can't please everyone. I'm not about to bad mouth the other shop that "re-did" all my work, but he definatly isn't perfect either, NO ONE IS PERFECT!! My shop was a little unorganized a few months ago because it was ME doing everything, I couldn't find any skilled/reliable employees to I was left to do everything so it would get done right. I have finally found a very proficent employee, allowing us to get projects done faster and more efficent. We are now turning and buring the projects out, I really like the Liberty solid front axle conversion because they are unique and you don't see them being wheeled around everywhere like wranglers and every other jeep.
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i think the better move would be to wait in the RL kit.. atleast we know it'll be top quality and work without death wobble and bump steer. 6g's for a SFA sounds REAL iffy
i had know idea this was up there...he didn't even get permission from me or my parents(that's who is in the last pic next to the battleship) i tell you all he cut corners and yes i did have it re-done...let me tell you the good part...the shop that i had do the install first was not a friend of mine...i did have alot of work done befor the swap and he did a great job...so i thought he could take it on......the shop i had fix everything is a very good and legit place...it is call cape fear 4x4...he has had 6 rigs published and featured in magazines...the reason i didn't go to him was price and time...he was very busy then...he now told me he could do a nice setup close to what i had done for a little more money...this would be triangulated 4 link rear long arms w/ 8 inch coils or more if you want...4 link front w/ trac bar and coil overs w/ what ever axles you would want...my steering has been changed to a wj HD box which workd great...pm me if you have more Questions.
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what a coincidence....please disregard the post above yours.... 
I'll wait for RL
