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PostPosted: Thu Jun 04, 2009 7:13 pm 
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I am looking for a SYE. AA makes a ton of them and I have no idea which way to go.

Any suggestions? Links to the right one? My buddy told me about a $200 one that would be all I need made by AA.

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PostPosted: Fri Jun 05, 2009 1:00 am 
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daspes wrote:
Must have misread this post from you slider build...

Inc wrote:
Fordyce when my rig has a solid front axle. We should plan on a week or two. I'll be in UT in a week or so, and then Vegas a week after that. I need to check my schedule to see the actual dates but we'll get it sorted.

Deer Valley
Slick Rock
Pardoe
Strawberry

-any of those should be fun.


Thought you meant you were hitting Fordyce Creek in a week or two.. Sorry. I was thinking when I read that the "wow he really made some progress"





I wish. :(


My original goal summer 2010.

That date has been thrown out and moved up a year. :wink:

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 3:14 pm 
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Inc wrote:
I am looking for a SYE. AA makes a ton of them and I have no idea which way to go.

Any suggestions? Links to the right one? My buddy told me about a $200 one that would be all I need made by AA.

anyone?

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 3:59 pm 
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you are using the stock transfer case for now right?

If so, I would call AA and ask them which one to use. I have one on my wifes KJ but it was there when we bought it so I have no idea if it is a special one or the same one you would use in any other 231. fwiw, it looks just like the one on my XJ 231.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 4:01 pm 
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JJsKJ wrote:
you are using the stock transfer case for now right?

If so, I would call AA and ask them which one to use. I have one on my wifes KJ but it was there when we bought it so I have no idea if it is a special one or the same one you would use in any other 231. fwiw, it looks just like the one on my XJ 231.

Yep, stock one for now. I guess I'll be calling AA soon.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 4:05 pm 
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http://advanceadapters.com/product/2464/50-7906.html

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 4:19 pm 
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daspes wrote:
http://advanceadapters.com/product/2464/50-7906.html



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So that will work for sure then? If so, thanks a bunch.

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PostPosted: Sun Jun 07, 2009 4:59 pm 
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This one looks well built also:

http://www.jbconversions.com/pages/prod ... t_sye.html

I thought the Liberty had 27 spline shafts??

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 2:31 am 
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The more I read and look into this one http://www.jbconversions.com/pages/prod ... t_sye.html
the better it sounds. I sent them an email asking about it and if it will work for my application.

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 10:40 am 
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Inc wrote:
The more I read and look into this one http://www.jbconversions.com/pages/prod ... t_sye.html
the better it sounds. I sent them an email asking about it and if it will work for my application.


The only concern I have is here...

Image

With the yoke being that short, would you have to yank the whole shaft to change the U-joints? That seems like more pain than it's gain of 3.12"...

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PostPosted: Mon Jun 08, 2009 1:45 pm 
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daspes wrote:
Inc wrote:
The more I read and look into this one http://www.jbconversions.com/pages/prod ... t_sye.html
the better it sounds. I sent them an email asking about it and if it will work for my application.


The only concern I have is here...

Image

With the yoke being that short, would you have to yank the whole shaft to change the U-joints? That seems like more pain than it's gain of 3.12"...

I received a reply from the JB guys and they said that kit will work on any NV231.

Mike, I'm not sure why the whole thing would need to come out. Can't you still do one side at a time? When I changed them on my CJ5 I could do them one at a time and I'm not sure why the shortness of it would hinder me.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 3:43 pm 
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I thought the reason for the super short SYE was so you could add length to the drive shaft. TJ guys need the extra couple of inches, but I don't see why you would on the KJ. The KJ drive shaft is already longer than one from a TJ.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 6:52 pm 
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chefdab wrote:
I thought the reason for the super short SYE was so you could add length to the drive shaft. TJ guys need the extra couple of inches, but I don't see why you would on the KJ. The KJ drive shaft is already longer than one from a TJ.


Mostly true depending on amount of lift.

Simple answer... Lifting a vehicle increases the drive line angle which induces vibrations and increases wear on all the joints. The only way to decrease the angle is by installing a longer drive shaft. The only way you can install a longer drive shaft is to install a SYE or a new T-case which is shorter than OEM (Atlas, Stak, etc).

Longer wheelbase vehicles can get away with more lift before needing the SYE. TJ's have such a short wheel base that anything over 3.5" or so a SYE is pretty much needed. The KJ could probably handle 5-6" or so of lift before you need to do one.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 7:21 pm 
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daspes wrote:
chefdab wrote:
I thought the reason for the super short SYE was so you could add length to the drive shaft. TJ guys need the extra couple of inches, but I don't see why you would on the KJ. The KJ drive shaft is already longer than one from a TJ.


Mostly true depending on amount of lift.

Simple answer... Lifting a vehicle increases the drive line angle which induces vibrations and increases wear on all the joints. The only way to decrease the angle is by installing a longer drive shaft. The only way you can install a longer drive shaft is to install a SYE or a new T-case which is shorter than OEM (Atlas, Stak, etc).

Longer wheelbase vehicles can get away with more lift before needing the SYE. TJ's have such a short wheel base that anything over 3.5" or so a SYE is pretty much needed. The KJ could probably handle 5-6" or so of lift before you need to do one.


I was referring to his choice of the super short versus the regular SYE. I already understand the reason for a SYE in the first place.

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 7:31 pm 
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I think it is just extra insurance. He will be going 8 or 10" of lift. The price difference between the two is minor. Plus, I think he stated that the shorter one looked stronger. I would do the same thing. If you can get the angle down lower for less than $100 of additional cost, why not?

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PostPosted: Tue Jun 09, 2009 10:11 pm 
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I picked up my steering box today.

I went to the pick n pull place to find one and I told him I needed one from a Bronco II.

This is the list of vehicles that use the same steering box as the Bronco II (all fords):

Bronco 80-96
Explorer 91-94
F100 80-83
F150 80-96
F250 80-96
F350 80-96
F450 80-96
VAN 83-91
Ranger 83-97

I got mine out of a 90 something F250.

I am going to order rear Youkon axle shafts here shortly as well. $128 ea. shipping incl.

I am also going to pick up the JB SYE. Seems worth the $ since everyone I talked to that runs one says they are worth the little bit extra.

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Last edited by Inc on Tue Jun 09, 2009 11:12 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Wed Jun 10, 2009 5:31 pm 
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I talked to my dealer for Rubicon Express and he can get me a full set of Extreme Duty Long Arms front and rear for $1,100 out the door.

That is $300 more than i wanted to spend, but I don't have to make my own, my front axle is already set for radius upper front arms, and they are covered by RE. I figure those things are worth the extra 3 bills. I just wish they were high clearance arms.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2009 12:56 pm 
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Inc wrote:
Anyone know anything about Doetsch Tech shocks? I can get a set of front shocks for $275 a pop, and the coils are $35 a piece.


Well, I looked at the FOX shocks again and they are on sale with free shipping. $207 a piece. :shock: Hard to pass that up, so I might order them today.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2009 1:40 pm 
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Just an odd question. Could you actually do the rear long arm conversion without lifting it? I know that sounds stupid but I was thinking that if you can I might go ahead and start on it now. I'm thinking put all of the rear in except the shocks and springs while I'm getting the rest of the components. That way I can at least get that work out of the way. Less to do later.

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PostPosted: Thu Jun 11, 2009 2:25 pm 
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rescu2000 wrote:
Just an odd question. Could you actually do the rear long arm conversion without lifting it? I know that sounds stupid but I was thinking that if you can I might go ahead and start on it now. I'm thinking put all of the rear in except the shocks and springs while I'm getting the rest of the components. That way I can at least get that work out of the way. Less to do later.

I would think the length of the long arms would be an issue.

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