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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 10:50 am 
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jsc7002 wrote:
wow that ballistic DOM tubing is high! $10 per foot for 1.75"x.120"
Yeah that is real high,I bought a 24' stick of 1.25"x0.281" walled DOM for $8.33 per foot locally.I wouldn't use anything less then 1/4" walled DOM for control arms,steering linkage,and track bars.


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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 10:57 am 
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I was looking at them as well I think I am going to use them bu rework them a lilte to wrap around the frame what Is ever one useing for steering I am going to use a for box witch I just have to go get for $35 dollors and reuild it


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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 3:14 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
jsc7002 wrote:
wow that ballistic DOM tubing is high! $10 per foot for 1.75"x.120"
Yeah that is real high,I bought a 24' stick of 1.25"x0.281" walled DOM for $8.33 per foot locally.I wouldn't use anything less then 1/4" walled DOM for control arms,steering linkage,and track bars.


oh no I wouldnt either I only used that because Im looking for metal for a cage on my CJ. I know a place close by where I can get is for $0.25/ lb. :twisted: 8)

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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 3:59 pm 
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dont forget gears


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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 4:17 pm 
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great piont kyle that will go with what ever wheel and tire size you wont to run


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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 4:20 pm 
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if hes keeping the 8.25 i beleive 4.56 or 4.88 is as deep as you can go.


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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 4:22 pm 
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4:88 is the deepest with the stock rear that you can go I am going deeper yet with the 60 rear when I get it done


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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 4:25 pm 
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you plan to be done for the blessing?


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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 5:25 pm 
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evil libby wrote:
4:88 is the deepest with the stock rear that you can go I am going deeper yet with the 60 rear when I get it done
Just let it be known that 4.56 gears(possible) and 4.88 gears need to have some teeth ground down to fit the center pin back into the carrier for the 8.25.


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PostPosted: Thu May 21, 2009 8:39 pm 
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no I am just working on it I would like to have it done by the blessing next year but I dont see that happening I have a lot to do yet I still have to put the 44 back together do the up grades as I go and then start the back one I would like to have the axles done be for I start cuting so I can roll them around if I need to but I am doing better than I thought started last march and the front is just about all together as for finding parts and now starts the tuff work puting it in


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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 12:16 pm 
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Ok i have another question now. If i were to build the LA's, where is the best place in town to get them?

Also do you have to have coilovers in the front or can you do just coils and shocks?


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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 1:05 pm 
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d30 doesnt have enough room, you would have to go full width. coil overs are the best way to go.

what do you mean by LA? lower arm?


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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 1:21 pm 
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Ok so in order to do regular coils i need full widths. Got it.

LA= Long Arms.


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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 1:32 pm 
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any place that sells DOM. and i would probably order the joints off line.


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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 1:56 pm 
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ya the joints i am going with a local company called Rokmen. they make awesome products in the Wrangler world.


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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 9:41 pm 
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jonie jonts rebuildable way better inthe long run and I am going for the sold tub for the arms I now it is heavy but it dose not matter if you are going over rock I don't fell like breacking arms all the time


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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 9:47 pm 
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evil libby wrote:
jonie jonts rebuildable way better inthe long run and I am going for the sold tub for the arms I now it is heavy but it dose not matter if you are going over rock I don't fell like breacking arms all the time
Sold tube is actually weaker then say 1/4" or 3/8" walled DOM or Chromoly tubing of the same overall diameter.Also remember to have a rubber OEM style rubber bushing on one end(axle end is preferred) of each of the control arms,the ride will be better and it will overall be better for your unibody and suspension since they will transmit less road shock then having Johny Joints on both ends.For a trail only rig it really doesn't matter but one that will see DD duty you will regret using hard joints on both ends.


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PostPosted: Fri May 22, 2009 11:45 pm 
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ok sounds great. Hey TJKJ know of any good places to get DOM tubing?


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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 3:00 pm 
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that is true and I am planing to do so and I am looking in to cold rolled 2" so I should not have any problem with that I have seen the dome at the park come back in half and really done some real numbers on the suspsion as well


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PostPosted: Sat May 23, 2009 8:37 pm 
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evil libby wrote:
that is true and I am planing to do so and I am looking in to cold rolled 2" so I should not have any problem with that I have seen the dome at the park come back in half and really done some real numbers on the suspsion as well
DOM and Chromoly tubing is much stronger then cold rolled tubing by alot.


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