I just wanted to let everyone know that I have taken the plunge and signed my bank account over to a local shop to do a SFA swap on my KJ. It looks like we will be using a HP Dana 44 from an early Bronco as the front axle (might have to shorten the axle to equal the rear width; that is TBD right now). Mainly using this axle because it is readily available vice seeking out a HP Dana 30 and have less strength. If you really smart axle people see any issues/concerns please let me know. I will be keeping the rear axle, for now, to simplify the build (speedo issue mainly) and to keep cost down. Both axles will have Chromoly axle shafts, ARB lockers (hopefully), and 4.88s.
The shop that i am going through is a certified vendor for BDS and OME so i will be utilizing those companies as much as possible to keep cost down. This may cause my build to be a bit different then most on this forum (mainly with bracketry, disconnects, track bars, etc). Time will tell. I will make sure to document the build as much as possible to aid others.

Inc's and OHV_KJ's build posts have been a huge help and will continue to be. To both of them (even though neither own their KJ's anymore) thanks.

I will post pictures and keep this post up-to-date when we start working. The plan is to start working in Feb when i deploy so they can have plenty of time to do the work.

Below is my specs as of right now:

2003 Renegade, 5 Speed manual. I have been running the Frankenlift II, JBA 4.5 A-Arms, and 245/75 tires for awhile now. I will be selling my current set up next year.

Front axle: HP Dana 44 from early bronco. Warn Hub kit. Knuckles, disc brakes, and steering tentatively from a late model ford f150. If this doesn't look to work well, we will transition into the WJ gear like others have used.
Rear axle: Stock 8.25
Control Arms: TJ/LJ BDS Arms (tentative)
Fox 2.0 Coil Over Shocks
QA1 2.5id 10” #450 upper springs
QA1 2.5id 10” #500 lower springs
OME 864 Rear Springs
Rear shocks - TBD
Rear 8.25 - 4.88 gears with master overhaul kit
Front HP44 - 4.88 gears with master overhaul kit
BDS Sway Bar Disconnects and Currie Anti-Rock Sway bar
Front and rear Drive Shafts fabbed in house.
Ford Steering Box (need to locate)
Custom Exhaust - TBD but will be fabbed in house.
SYE Kit for NP231 - TBD.
Long Arm and Coilover mounting - fabbed in house.
BDS Front Track Bar
Yukon Alloy Axle Shafts for HP Dana 44 & 8.25 Rear Axle
ARB Airlockers - front and rear. (hopefully)

You will not have to shorten a HP44 from a EB as they are the width you need,about 62" WMS to WMS.Be very carful on picking one as there are many you do not want,the below link has a ton of HP44 info about flat top knuckles(for the very needed high steering),disc brake conversions,and so on.

http://77cj.littlekeylime.com/web_rs44.html

The Ford steering box is the best/easiest to do.I would also skip Yukon axles for the HP44,use 10 Factory chromo axles for the HP44,you will need Ford inners and Chevy outers if you plan on running front disc brakes.Yukon also does not make chromo axles for the 8.25,they do make HD 8.25 axles but they are not chromolly.

If you have any ?'s about the HP44 just ask as I use the same axle in the front of mine but it's full width.

I am still researching the year of the axle. That is why there is a question on whether it will have to be shortened or not. The axle owner just hit me today on the phone and said he had the perfect axle for me. I am yet to see it. I will find out more and post.




I will definitely be using the ford steering box. the knuckles, disc brakes, etc will be from a ford f150. That is different from what i have seen folks use in here (most use WJ parts from what i have seen). The F150 parts are readily available but if the WJ parts will save me some major pain, please let me know. Since you are using basically the same axle, what brakes, knuckles, etc did you use? If there was a particular reason, please let me know.



What do you mean by, "use 10 Factory chromo axles"? The axle shafts for the HP44 will only be purchased if the axle needs to be shortened. If not, i think it has plenty of strength for my use. I will have to convert it to Disc brakes and confirm it is capable of high steer. Is $450 a good price before the disc brake conversion? As for the 8.25, thanks. The HD 8.25 shafts is what i meant.



Thanks. I will probably take you up on that numerous times.

If you want high steer you will need to swap out the Chevy knuckles,use Chevy small bearing spindles,Ford bearings,ford hubs/rotors,Chevy caliper mounts,Chevy Calipers/pads,and the Chevy outer stub shaft.Your not going to have high steer with 1/2 ton Ford stuff.I used Crane knuckles and new Chevy small bearing spindles and I'm only using the passenger side knuckle for high steer which gives you the more street freindly "cross-over steering" since the Crane knuckles have the tie rod ports reamed topside already for Chevy 1ton TRE's.

Read up about the HP44's in the link I posted,some HP44's are junk while others are gold.


Then you got another issue if your keeping the 8.25,the front and rear bolt patterns will be different.

Yea, I have been pondering whether I want to deal with two different bolt patterns or figure out a way to solve the problem without going to a bolt pattern adapter (i have never liked spacers or adapters of that sort).

What is required to setup the steering on the HP30? I saw Inc used WJ
knuckle/brake/steering conversion w/ chevy 3/4 ton TRE's and heavy duty 1.25x.219 drilled and tapped tie rod and drag link.

I'm assuming the WJ knuckles are flattop knuckles allowing high steer. Then the chevy rod ends are as we discussed earlier. But i didn't see a mention of WJ Knuckles in Neatus' build post. Are the knuckles from the 97-99 Cherokee HP30 able to be used?

Thanks for your help.

You can not use WJ stuff on the HP44.You either get to use Ford stuff(no high steer for 1/2 ton) or Chevy and get high steer if you find the correct knuckles and have them machined(or find a set already machined) or buy aftermarket knuckles that are already machined for high steer.You have to use a D30(or HP30) or the TJ Rubicon LP44 front diff to use WJ high steer knuckles.

If you choose aftermarket I highly recommend Cranes stuff,they have keyways now for a stronger setup and use thicker 5/8" studs instead of the 9/16" studs everyone else uses.Worth every penny and there a great company to deal with,they even supported LJS '10,Josh is a great guy and knows his stuff.

http://www.cranehiclearance.com/crane_ddm_003.htm

Sorry for the confusion. I realize that. I have a Dana 30 from a 97 Cherokee that I am looking to purchase and was asking about the setup if i went that route vice the Dana 44. Both axles are at the shop now. I will be going over there on Friday to take a look. I would like to go with the Dana 44 but if converting it to fit my need is costly and the Dana 30 is significantly cheaper, I may go that route.

Thanks.

I noticed on Inc's build sheet he had QA1 2.5id 10” #450 and QA1 2.5id 10” #500 springs but Neatus had Eibach ERS 10" long 2.5" I.D. Coil spring Spring Rate: 250lb

Can someone confirm that the Eibach springs require that much of a drop in spring rate? I saw the posts in Inc's build post where he went with way to light of springs and finally changed to the 450 and 500lbs springs. Does anyone know if Neatus ended up doing the same thing? Any help would be appreciated.


Thanks.

the spring rate all depends on how you want the coilover to perform and ride. depending on the weight that is on the front well also depend on spring rate. on are crd we are doing 550 and 500

_________________
2005 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon TJ- Impact Orange
4'' RK LA, 35's KM2's, Warn front bumper, Warn rear bumper with tire swing, Warn gas skid, Nth oil skid, 4.88's, Alloy axles shafts F&R, Rokmen Corner armor with led's, and Rokmen sliders, custom back-up lights from gen-right, piaa 510's, IPF green glow fatboy's up front.

I went 450/500 and will be getting an ARB soon enough as well so that added weight and then the eventual winch that will be installed on it as well and a potential snorkel led me to the decision for my springs as well as seeing that other SFAs did the same...

Best of luck with the build!!

-Scott

_________________
Had 2005 KJ Rocky Mnt. Edition (destroyed)
Had 2006 KJ Sport 4x4
Have 2007 JK 4-dr Sahara 4x4 (tow package so stock 4.10s!!)
AEV 3.5" RS Lift; Schrockworks FR bumper and Warn 9.5ti winch; Cobra 75 CB; Rigid 50" LED light bar; Adventure Trailers (AT Overland) JK Kitchen setup in the cargo area.
Southern L.O.S.T. # 236487