Hey we tossed this idea around last night, What challenges might I run into if I Run this T-Case setup?

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02 Sport,Frankenlifted,JBA arms,31/11.50/15 LTB,Aussie locker,204,000m

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=73&t=58476 Already discussed all of the combonations here and seems we are truly down to two choices Rubicrawler or Atlas 2. Both proven and both in Gods of the KJ universe vehicals (Tjkj2002 and JJskj)

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My CRD Build Thread
Soon to Come:more lights

BAhahahaha These are all the T-cases?

1... A google link??? I know how it works and can put one together.
2. I'm looking for actual technical reasons it will/won't work not just Use a 241OR or Atlas because it worked for me No offense to the people running those setups.
I can build a 231/300Crawl box with twin sticks for 350$ (that's including custom adapters and a re-splined 231 shaft) I'm wondering if I can actually mate this too my 04's 42RLE? I'm not trying to offend people I'm trying to push the limits of the Libby SFA to make it more affordable for the home builder, who doesn't have 10-20K too drop on a build, but wants something better than stock.

Seen planty of 203/205 doublers,works well but extremely heavy.That's alot of work for what you get doing a 231/300 doubler.Oh and you have the 42RLE trans in your '04 KJ so why not just do the Advance Adapters RubiCrawler and 231?

Cause he knows everything about it all.

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02 Sport,Frankenlifted,JBA arms,31/11.50/15 LTB,Aussie locker,204,000m

Easy Buddy, I'm Doing something Different. Also I don't know it all or I wouldn't be asking these questions! If we all did the same thing over and over again with our builds where would that lead us?

The reason I'm not doing either of those troy is because I have this stuff, and the RubiCrawler is 1600$ (Really trying to keep it under 10K Driving down the trail). If doing the 231/300 won't cause any Electrical nightmares I can do that for 350$. I mean if weight is really the only issue then I will try to make it work, if there is some other issue or issues I might be getting into this.

Weight will be a issue,a 300 t-case is a little heavier then the AtlasII,then add half of the 231 case and all the adapters and you will be stressing that trans mount alot,more then it's ment to handle.I had to modify a OEM trans mount to handle the 25lbs heavier AtlasII.

Then the fun part,making the shifters.That alone will run more then $350 as you will most likely have to use a cable shifter setup like I had to for twin sticks unless you want the shifters in the armrest part of the center console.

make it so! Id love to see something Really different in a SFA KJ build.

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99 TJ
71 C101
04 KJ
03 SFA KJ Sport
LOST JEEPS So-Cal

Try it and be sure to add to your crossmember and add a support mount to help with the weight... Troy is just trying to make sure his junk stays as the fattest Libby... But then again when you roll around with enough tools to rebuild the whole thing it gonna be heavy!!! And then there is Troy...

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I'm baaaaccckkk...
LOST Member 10
If you can read this you don't need glasses, go Wheel your Jeep!

It's in the works, The Trans to Transfer case adapter will be the last piece of the puzzle. I got a cable shifter setup from another guys TJ build, maybe I can make them work. We'll see soon enough tho.

Lets see something different. I would love to see you make the doubler work.

No point in doing a build like this if you cannot add your own touches too it.

IT well be fun to see how you get the doubler in there, and what you do about the crossmembers.

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2005 Jeep Wrangler Rubicon TJ- Impact Orange
4'' RK LA, 35's KM2's, Warn front bumper, Warn rear bumper with tire swing, Warn gas skid, Nth oil skid, 4.88's, Alloy axles shafts F&R, Rokmen Corner armor with led's, and Rokmen sliders, custom back-up lights from gen-right, piaa 510's, IPF green glow fatboy's up front.

so i've been watching this forum for a very long time now preparing my own SFA KJ. The one thing i have noticed time and time again is troy giving his two cents on almost everything. now i'm not doubting his knowledge, and i have found his input very helpful a number of times. however, he seems hell bent on being correct all the time. Red Kj ... if you wanna do the doubler and you have what it takes to make it work then go for it. yes the added weight of it will put stress on the trans mount, but if you are doing a SFA swap, then what is some extra fab work? the best thing is to remove the factor crossmember and eliminate it completely or try to re-use it. move the mount to the back of the transfer case using a ring to go around the output(i'm assuming you are getting a slip-yoke eliminator, if you aren't, you need to) and have it bolt in place using slightly longer bolts. mount that bracket on some sort of an isolator for vibration and drivetrain movement. if you wanted it real beefy you could keep the trans K-memeber and make another for the transfer. as for the shifters ... it is tight under there but with creativity you could mount them wherever you want to. you will have to modify them to stretch out to the stock shifter location, but i've done custom transfer cases before and a cable shifter doesn't always have to be used. scrap metal goes a long way if you think mechanically. there are endless ways to go when doing a project like this. if you have the parts and the creativity, go for it.

The Doubler is still in the works anyone who honestly thought of using the stock mounting system would be on glue (even without the Doubler I am building a custom cross member and T-Case Support arm). The Doubler may not go in until next year due to the possibility of budget restraints I may cut the body even more and make a cross member inside the rear hatch area to mount rear Coilovers.I guess Either way I will have a cross member in there due to the 14" travel Bilstiens. Some people build inside the box and others outside the box, I consider my style outside the box. I will guarantee that my jeep turns out quite a bit lower than most SAS Kjs due to some outside the box thinking.