Surplus Dana 30

TheBlueKJ · **Posted:** Thu Nov 21, 2013 12:42 pm

That is coming along great! :POPCORN:

You should do some cleaning under there now that'll be so much easier to get under there :mrgreen:

Fertana13 · **Posted:** Thu Nov 21, 2013 5:12 pm

Looking awesome bro!!!

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bshooter · **Posted:** Thu Nov 21, 2013 9:39 pm

Thanks Guys. I need a little help with ordering up brake line extensions. Dose anyone know what the thread sizes are on the front connection where it attachés to the fender well, and in the rear at the 2 brass block connections? This would help me greatly…. Thanks :JEEPIN:

bshooter I found the answers I was looking for.. Got the gear box hooked up to the steering wheel now also.

Chipppy · **Joined:** Wed Apr 11, 2012 5:23 pm **Posts:** 223

Awesome!!! Doing a great job defiantly killing it with double tri front end :BANANA:

bshooter · **Posted:** Tue Dec 03, 2013 11:51 pm

Finely getting to the front. Their is not a lot of room for easily maid hoops for the strut supports, so I decided to make a tower by cutting a piece of 5" .25 wall weld pipe in half and build a tower. Im not done yet but this should do the trick with more bracing and make it easer to close in the fender wells. Their may be enough room for the battery instead of having to relocated it in the rear. I still may do the battery relocate for the weight difference. Brake line extensions should be this week also. Getting closer.. :CAMPING:

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bshooter · **Posted:** Sun Dec 08, 2013 10:31 pm

After putting in the front strut towers, the top of the towers need to be tied together with a cross brace. no problem till you go to hook up the intercooler and the intake :ALONE:

Then I remembered "I used to be a plumber along time ago" hahahahahahahaha. A picture is worth a 1000 words and Im not done yet. If you have ever just looked at small heater hoses that rap around each other in that small area you just want to walk away.. Don't let that scare you because a ¾" brass pex fitting and some new ⅝ heater hose will fix that factory mess even after sticking a 14" strut tower right up in the thick of it. Im hanging tuff...

bshooter · **Posted:** Thu Dec 12, 2013 12:05 am

Not done yet, but hears a a look with the tires on. Still need to connect the ram on the front axle, steering rods, sensor connections and a few other little things.[url][URL=http://s886.photobucket.com/user/bshooterr/media/DSCN1462_zps1ba5f573.jpg.html]

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Chipppy · **Joined:** Wed Apr 11, 2012 5:23 pm **Posts:** 223

Right on!!!!!

bshooter · **Posted:** Fri Dec 13, 2013 9:53 pm

The cross brace will serve as front part of the engine skid and bump stop bracket also. [url

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Chino78 · **Posted:** Fri Dec 13, 2013 10:03 pm

How much lift are you going to get?

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Chipppy · **Joined:** Wed Apr 11, 2012 5:23 pm **Posts:** 223

How much lift are you wanting at ride height? Are you able to sit any lower since you motor is lifted a little bit?

bshooter · **Posted:** Fri Dec 13, 2013 11:02 pm

Im not sure yet. Its Kinda hard to tell because my garage floor is not level. When I leveled the Jeep and hung strings in the fender wells and used a laser to to mark the strings to get axle hight. The front is about ½" off the floor with the tires on and the center of the headlight to the floor measures 49". My ride hight is fully adjustable with the ORI struts so I will be able to go up or down when I want with the help of a nitrogen tank. :SOMBRERO:

I built the strut towers front and rear to handle 6" of compression and 8" of drop. The front ARB bumper will be trimmed to handle the tires the rear flairs will be cut and I will be making a rear bumper to cary the spare. The right now I have 109.75" wheel span. The links are made to be extended if I choose to go with bigger tires later.

bshooter · **Posted:** Thu Dec 19, 2013 12:20 am

Trying to get the lockers and speed sensors wired. Have to move the battery to the rear also, o'joy. Did the the rough cut on the fender wells and flairs in the rear. These pictures are not the finish cut. I bought the wire harness from Jeep for a JK's locker and sensors. All the plugs and connections are on the harness, Just take it apart and use what you need with all the wire necessary.[url][URL=http://s886.photobucket.com/user/bshooterr/media/DSCN1466_zps62f6aa4d.jpg.html]

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Chipppy · **Joined:** Wed Apr 11, 2012 5:23 pm **Posts:** 223

Omg this is so cool!!!!!! :CAMPING:

I wanna be your friends haha

bshooter · **Posted:** Sun Dec 22, 2013 9:07 pm

bshooter · **Posted:** Tue Dec 24, 2013 10:30 pm

Took till Christmas to get this far :ROTFL:

Merry Christmas Everyone...[url][URL=http://s886.photobucket.com/user/bshooterr/media/DSCN1491_zpse0eba3ec.jpg.html]

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bshooter · **Posted:** Thu Dec 26, 2013 11:11 pm

The track bar was not being so nice to me :banghead:

but I whooped it. No pics yet, but soon enough. That should finish up the suspension :seuss:

.. I need to do something with the air intake and mount the power steering bottle and the crank case ventilator "pro 200", mount the battery box in the rear and make the connections. I need to trim the ARB bumper so the tires will fit and turn better under compression. double check everything- :grim:

Then its on- :rockon:

Chino78 · **Posted:** Fri Dec 27, 2013 9:59 am

Why did you move the upper control arms mounts of the front axle to the outside? Did you get more clearance under the uniframe/engine?

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bshooter · **Posted:** Fri Dec 27, 2013 10:29 am

The front is a lower triangulated 4 link. This gives you oil pan clearance and driveshaft clearance. Its the same as the rear just turned upside down.

bshooter · **Posted:** Fri Dec 27, 2013 7:10 pm

Track bar pic. Now I need to remove all steering linkage for paint then finish welding the track bar bracket at the axle which was made from 2 different brackets combined. then final paint on the axle. [url][URL=http://s886.photobucket.com/user/bshooterr/media/DSCN1495_zps997a8dc9.jpg.html]

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Surplus Dana 30

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