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 Post subject: Basic questions
PostPosted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 6:14 pm 
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Hey everyone, been tossing the idea of a SAS WK or KJ around for a bit. i've got a pair of JK44's already stripped, geared, gusseted, and sleeved that I was going to use on the WK, but the recent BDS KJ piqued my curiosity. a few people have told me it's pricey; are we talking $10k or are we talking $20k? anything anyone can tell me to get me started? I have the means and the ability, I'm just wondering how comprehensive the swap will be. I had a built WJ before they were cool, and miss wheeling something different. My current TJ just doesn't do it for me. any and all advice appreciated. thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: Basic questions
PostPosted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 9:23 pm 
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I have $26k in parts alone on my SFA KJ and I consider mine mildly built.If you have a '06+ it will cost more due to ABS and ESP.It's going to be very costly in a WK due to ABS,ESP,and gas tank location.


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 Post subject: Re: Basic questions
PostPosted: Sat Jun 29, 2013 11:33 pm 
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awesome. i've seen your KJ a few times before and it's nasty; definitely expected something along the lines of what you said you had into it money-wise. i'm not planning on going as hardcore as you at the moment, but doesnt seem like it would cost much more than building another WJ to where my last one was headed. plus the wife thinks it would be fun (she's reading this too and understands the $$). i noticed people using TJ long arm kits with their hp30 swaps... mind if i ask why? wheelbase similarities? all the builds i see on here seem to be with the hp30 and lifted HIGH. i wanted to try to keep a lower COG and trim more. won't go bigger than 35's, MAYBE 37's with the JK44's. this isn't going to be a quick build by any means. more like stockpile the parts while i research who's doing what and then go to it with the help of a local offroad shop. so i'll def look pre-06. anything else? what's the average price for a CRD kj of around that age with decent miles? and what are decent miles on a CRD? sorry for all the questions, i'm trying to find all the info myself. i've just come to learn that you can get better info from someone with previous experience vs. something on a forum. (jeepforum turned into a special needs group as far as the WJ's went, so i stay far away from there now) once again, thanks for the insight. you guys have a facebook page or anything else to glean info from?


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 Post subject: Re: Basic questions
PostPosted: Sun Jun 30, 2013 12:10 am 
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Your going to run into issues with a CRD that you will not with a gas KJ like steering box and intercooler hose routing and issues with linp mode since the CRD is electronic throttle.To get everything under the KJ you must lift higher unless you don't want much articulation or cut the heck out of the uniframe and weld in alot of bracing.I went full widths,even wider then JK axles and a HP44 up front.


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 Post subject: Re: Basic questions
PostPosted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 2:33 pm 
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is it safe to say that hydro steering will take care of the steering box issues? and will jk axles not be wide enough, or were they just not wide enough for your liking? i wanted to do a lower COG kj if possible. all of you guys seem to be lifted way up.


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 Post subject: Re: Basic questions
PostPosted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 4:06 pm 
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MrJ wrote:
is it safe to say that hydro steering will take care of the steering box issues? and will jk axles not be wide enough, or were they just not wide enough for your liking? i wanted to do a lower COG kj if possible. all of you guys seem to be lifted way up.

The JK axles are to weak.The whole steering box issue is due to the lack of room.Once you start looking at the front end you will see why you have to go up higher then others.


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 Post subject: Re: Basic questions
PostPosted: Mon Jul 08, 2013 4:08 pm 
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There are only 3 CRD SFA KJs i have seen so far and been around here quite awhile buy my understanding the front steering and suspension is a pain but the rear is just like the gassers. The problem with hydro steering on a kj is it would no longer be road legal in alot of states. Hydro assit on the other hand is legal in almost every state. And to find a good milage CRD is one pre-100K or one after 100K with the timing belt done. The timing belt on one of these is about a 1200 dollar job if you buy the parts and the dealer does it. Another thing to look for is GDE tunes all of them are great and anyhting like and EHM or Provent are good also. And TJKJ is right the HP44 up front on a CRD wont handle the wieght.

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 Post subject: Re: Basic questions
PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 11:49 am 
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Go take a look at what BDS did on there Ultimate Adventure KJ they just built, to get the room you need up front that is what you will need to do. You will also need to be prepared to spend somewhere in the neighborhood of 15-20k if you are not doing everything yourself, and JK 44's would be alright as long as you don't plan on going any bigger than a 35" tire no one needs 1-tons for 35's lol


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 Post subject: Re: Basic questions
PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 3:08 pm 
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The JK44 is questionable because of the extra wieght of the CRD which can be about 500 pounds more then a gasser. And about the same for the JKs and most of that is over the front wheels. You throw and ARB up front and some lights your pushing closer to 450 and then it is all up hill from there. Without a properly sleved and gusseted HP44 out front with some heavy shafts and a good locker in it I wouldn't do it. I wouldn just buy a steerable sixty put a locker in it and be done. Plus for the cost of the work needed to be done on the 44 the D60 would be cheaper.

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 Post subject: Re: Basic questions
PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 9:39 pm 
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The biggest issue with the JK 44 is the weak 1/4" tubes,no better then a D30 front,weak tubes.Find a HP44 out of a '75-'77 F100/F150 with 1/2" tubes.


I don't know how building a HP60 for the front could be any cheaper then a HP44.Heck your pretty hard pressed to find a HP60 front for under a $1000 and then add all the goodies and your at $10,000 easy.


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 Post subject: Re: Basic questions
PostPosted: Wed Jul 10, 2013 11:49 pm 
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No axle out of the box will work on a SFA KJ. Their have been a few very successful builds and TJKJ2002 has one. He also has some good advice, but their is more then 1 way to build an axle. Who knows why Jeep made the front JK D44 axle tube smaller then the rear 44?? They did and the aftermarket can fix the weaker tube with a sleeve, when installed correctly makes it strong enough for a KJ CRD or 3.7. This axle is not a good choose for a hot rod rock bouncer. I'm using this axle in my build. I was lucky to get the set I got. The Jk 44 also needs gusset strengthening. Easy enough.. These are normal things in a custom build. There is no denying an old f250 D44 is stronger than a stock JK D44. The JK axles should work well on the KJ. BDS just put one through a toucher test. bshooter

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 Post subject: Re: Basic questions
PostPosted: Thu Jul 11, 2013 12:09 pm 
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BDS also did alot of things to that axle I am sure are not listed since they themselves didnt put them together and build them. And I have and HP60 from a F-350 sitting in my shop floor got it off our old total lossed shop truck before we scraped the rest of it.

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 Post subject: Re: Basic questions
PostPosted: Sat Jul 13, 2013 10:27 pm 
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i know this is kind of off topic, but i'm picking up a 2002 kj renegade next week and the guy says it already has ome springs, bilstein shocks, jba control arms and is at about 3". what do i want to do next? going to keep it at that height for now, but would like to strengthen the suspension and install a locker. we do mostly trailing with camping and the occasional rock garden


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 Post subject: Re: Basic questions
PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2013 12:02 am 
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As long as it has the heavy duty springs(927 fronts, not sure of the backs for KJs), it should be pretty strong. OME/Bilstein combos are very popular and hold up well. Can't help with lockers though as I have little to no experience with that stuff besides what I read.

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 Post subject: Re: Basic questions
PostPosted: Sun Jul 14, 2013 3:25 pm 
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what are my options as far as front struts/co's go? i saw the jba ones, but wasn't sure if there are other options


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 Post subject: Re: Basic questions
PostPosted: Mon Jul 15, 2013 7:28 pm 
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If the OME suspension stuff is the heavy or even the medium set up and he has the JBA UCAs you are set. Not much else you can do to make it better. The JBA adjustables are nice but I have a feeling the OME will out last them and handle more wieght. So leave it alone and save money for lockers. ARB up front and anything really in the rear works. Just make sure to use and ARB up so you reduce the risk of shock loading the aluminum front diff and cracking or shattering it. Also you need to look into skids and sliders if you plan to wheel it they would be the first on my list then 4.10s and then lockers.

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 Post subject: Re: Basic questions
PostPosted: Tue Jul 16, 2013 10:59 pm 
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yeah, it seems solid, so going to hold off on the struts for now. will i be able to fit 33's wth 3" lift? it's got like 31.5's or something on it now and it's got plenty of room all around the tire. i assume it has fender liners that can removed same as he WJ. it's got the factory skid package, so i'll keep that for now. like you said, going to go locker in front. between arb and eaton, would rather go with eaton. which one do i order? just one for a dana30? was looking at the JCR sliders since i ran those on my WJ and they were beefy. any suggestions on those? i saw lizard whatever's sliders.


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 Post subject: Re: Basic questions
PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 12:06 am 
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MrJ wrote:
yeah, it seems solid, so going to hold off on the struts for now. will i be able to fit 33's wth 3" lift? it's got like 31.5's or something on it now and it's got plenty of room all around the tire. i assume it has fender liners that can removed same as he WJ. it's got the factory skid package, so i'll keep that for now. like you said, going to go locker in front. between arb and eaton, would rather go with eaton. which one do i order? just one for a dana30? was looking at the JCR sliders since i ran those on my WJ and they were beefy. any suggestions on those? i saw lizard whatever's sliders.

Rock Lizard rock rails are 25 times better than JCRs
33s and 3 inches of lift = NO not without tons of hacking away at the body

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 Post subject: Re: Basic questions
PostPosted: Wed Jul 17, 2013 2:10 pm 
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For the locker check compatability because our fronts are acttually called D30A some companies differentiate some dont.

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 Post subject: Re: Basic questions
PostPosted: Thu Jul 18, 2013 10:16 pm 
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been doing more research. going to lock the rear and get a jba steel diff to build. may i ask the difference in sliders? i dropped my dub onto rocks and jersey barriers relentlessly with never more than a scratch or ding. i was pusing 2.5 tons with that thing fully loaded down.


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