First of all I have a Libby Ltd CRD which has been great and I plan to keep, Thanks to this forum before I put any miles on it we did the EGR and CCV fixs along with having a great Dealer has ensured the approprate TSB's were applied, I would generally wait until the TSB had proven itself before jumping in like the Cooler, New pump and TQ replacment.

I have a opportunity to get a new holdover 07 Overland CRD at a great price, I would like your thoughts especially current CRD owners on the following questions:

1. Should I wait for the Cummins? will it be a better engine than the MB 3.0
2. Does the CRD 3.0 have the crankcase oil venting Intake clogging issue like the Libby VM has? is Elephant mod or Provent required?
3. Does the CRD 3.0 have the reoccuring EGR issues that many (Not me fortunately) had on the Libby?
4. Real world MPG on the CRD 3.0 primarly highway cruising? I have heard anywhere from 22 to 25? is this right anyone seen better I know road wind and many other factors must be considered.

Thank you and I appreciate the feedback

All I know is that I'd own it in a second if I could financially justify it. I love my Liberty, but on a recent 2000 mile road trip I began to understand why people have more space. Even with only two people the Libby was cramped...

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2006 Jeep Liberty Sport CRD

Answers I can provide are:

1. No and no.
2. No and no.
3. No.
4. It's been a few thousand miles since I had a chance for a road trip (first week of July) but even then it got 25.2 mpg on the highway. That was with less than 3K miles and some seriously hot weather and a lot of mountain driving. I now have more than 6K miles, and hope to take a day trip this weekend to see what it's getting on the highway.Around town, putting 6 - 20 miles per day on the clock, I can't get less than 20 mpg, and typically it's right about 22 mpg. Last tank was better than 23 mpg.

1. Sure the Cummins would probably be a better choice (Cummins has a great parts and service network), but its not a sure thing it will ever make it to that platform.
2 -3. Not sure about these specific problems, but talk to a honest service or parts guy (or get a copy of the shop manual) and get the low down on how maintenance intensive that engine is. Lots of VERY expensive things to go wrong - makes our CRD's look down right affordable to buy parts for.
4. I haven't heard - sorry.

Bottom line they drive nice and I would have seriously considered one when the lifetime warranty came out, but for some reason Chrysler excluded them... And now with the Chrysler/ Diamler break-up, that thing has orphan written all over it (even more then our CRD's!)

I don't mean to offend any owners of them and frankly I hope I am wrong and it turns out to be a great million-mile vehicle, but I can't justify the gamble now, especially after the history with the CRD (bad dealer training and support, marginal band-aid fixes, constantly back-ordered parts)

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2005 Limited CRD

I just took a drive across two mountain passes, in various conditions of sunlight, driving rain, snow and gale-force head winds, at road speeds up to 70 mph, and temperatures from 29° F to 57° F.

Total miles: 444.1
Gallons to fill: 16.795

Result: 26.4 mpg

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Doug
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2007 WK CRD

It needs parts? Wow, damned by faint praise!

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Doug
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2007 WK CRD

I appreciate the great feedback. I believe it has a Diesel particulate filter does this need to be changed frequently? if so is it expensive?

Thanks again

The diesel particulate filter (DPF) is supposed to last the life of the vehicle. It's warranted the same as the other emissions equipment which, IIRC, is a federally-mandated 80,000 miles. There are tubes fore and aft of the DPF that are connected to pressure sensors. If they register backpressure, the injectors are signaled to add a tiny amount of fuel during the exhaust stroke to increase the exhaust temperature enough for "active" regeneration. This combusts the soot into ash. This active regeneration occurs only as needed, as normal operation should do the job. It's amazing, that after 6500 miles there is no soot in the tailpipe. It's bare steel, like it was installed yesterday.

It is critical that the correct motor oil and fuel be used. Not only must the oil have less than 1% ash, but phosphorous must also be low to protect the catalytic convertors. The fuel must only be ULSD (15 ppm of sulphur or less).

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Doug
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2007 WK CRD

Great information Doug, this helps me understand the process better

At first I envisioned some kind of filter in the exhaust we would need to change frequently


Thank you

how much did they want for that 07 Overland CRD?

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2005 CRD Sport
Mods: Glasspack, OME HD Struts & Springs, 2" Daystar lift,
255/70/16 General Grabber AT2's on MOAB's
ORM&EHM with great success!
TJM T17 Bumper, 50W KC HID's

Hi Endurance

In this area I have seen deep discounts because the CRD's are not selling 2007's several thousand under invoice plus the rebate

Thank you

You might want to try to find that in writing before you try to hang your hat on it. Several Liberty CRD owners have had emissions parts denied warranty coverage once the 36K warranty was over.

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Matt B.

05 Limited CRD. Bought it new. 112k on the clock now.

GDE Eco-tune, rear differential drain plug (drilled and tapped the pumpkin), transmission pan drain plug, Fumoto oil valve, fuel filler neck restriction removed, front hitch, Hayden fan clutch, Sears P1 battery since 08, Mobil 1 5w40, 5 volt glow plugs, DIY timing belt at 109k

Try two adults, two kids, camping gear and towing a giant pop-up camper! We are cramped for sure but I was more amazed that it towed the camper and carried all of us as well as it did! Even with steep discounts on the Grand CRD Limited it's still about $11 to $15k more than my Liberty CRD new. If money were no option... How cool would that be!

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'05 CRD Sport born on 06/20/05, bought on 9/23/05, L.O.S.T. on 9/27/05 - modding ever since:

Daystar 2.0" Lift, P255/70R16 Revos, Boulder Bars, Reese Front Hitch w/9k Hooks, Poison Spyder Rock Ring, MOPAR Skids/Bug Shield/Roof Rails/Mats, WARN Hitch Shackle(Rear), 10k Hitch Hook(Front), Custom Tilt/Slope Meter, Ammo Box Mod, Rotella T 5W-40.