What have you done to your KK lately

Gilcano · **Posted:** Sat Dec 22, 2018 9:49 pm

Get these parts for my KK

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lfhoward · **Posted:** Sat Dec 22, 2018 10:35 pm

Sweeeeeeeet!!!!! :shock:

JBA Santa came early. :BANANA:

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Dec 24, 2018 3:15 pm

MarkZ28 wrote:

Finally got a lot done on the 09. ATH winch bumper is on, only have to drill one hole when the winch gets installed. Went on pretty easily. All new brakes on all 4 corners, calipers, brackets, pads, and rotors. Lunch box locker in both axles, new parking brakes, all seals in the rear axle, front axle seals. New cv joint in front driveshaft. New oil pan, not bad when front axle was out, lol. Installed a 2 inch spacer lift also. I know, its not that great but it was $70 new, Rough Country. I cant afford the nice proper lift for now. Only have the winch, skid plates, and lights to install and its done for a while. I hope at least, haha. I have 3 other projects that need to be done.

Update suspension to at the very least OME HD springs and OME or Bilstein shocks
spacer lift and worn out springs and shocks will never hold up under the extra weight of the bumper and winch. You'll be soon replacing many worn out parts from that set up. 70 bucks wasted and your time installing in the long run ( 2-3 months )
Sorry have seen it happen too many times over the years

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Dec 24, 2018 3:16 pm

Gilcano wrote:

Get these parts for my KK

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Did good, you'll love the ride and handling

MarkZ28 · **Posted:** Mon Dec 24, 2018 5:27 pm

tommudd wrote:

MarkZ28 wrote:

Finally got a lot done on the 09. ATH winch bumper is on, only have to drill one hole when the winch gets installed. Went on pretty easily. All new brakes on all 4 corners, calipers, brackets, pads, and rotors. Lunch box locker in both axles, new parking brakes, all seals in the rear axle, front axle seals. New cv joint in front driveshaft. New oil pan, not bad when front axle was out, lol. Installed a 2 inch spacer lift also. I know, its not that great but it was $70 new, Rough Country. I cant afford the nice proper lift for now. Only have the winch, skid plates, and lights to install and its done for a while. I hope at least, haha. I have 3 other projects that need to be done.

Update suspension to at the very least OME HD springs and OME or Bilstein shocks
spacer lift and worn out springs and shocks will never hold up under the extra weight of the bumper and winch. You'll be soon replacing many worn out parts from that set up. 70 bucks wasted and your time installing in the long run ( 2-3 months )
Sorry have seen it happen too many times over the years

It will be done right later, didnt have the cash at the time to get the full suspension. Ill be getting JBA control arms, better lift, etc.. This wasnt meant to be long term, just to get by for a year or so. Reason it took that long was not working on it every day. Have other cars and a truck to drive.

tommudd · **Posted:** Mon Dec 24, 2018 11:40 pm

MarkZ28 wrote:

It will be done right later, didnt have the cash at the time to get the full suspension. Ill be getting JBA control arms, better lift, etc.. This wasnt meant to be long term, just to get by for a year or so. Reason it took that long was not working on it every day. Have other cars and a truck to drive.

Will never make it a year or so, even if it just sits for 365 days
That much extra weight on junk stock springs will be sagging way down in less than a year

Gilcano · **Posted:** Tue Dec 25, 2018 12:47 am

MarkZ28 wrote:

tommudd wrote:

MarkZ28 wrote:

Finally got a lot done on the 09. ATH winch bumper is on, only have to drill one hole when the winch gets installed. Went on pretty easily. All new brakes on all 4 corners, calipers, brackets, pads, and rotors. Lunch box locker in both axles, new parking brakes, all seals in the rear axle, front axle seals. New cv joint in front driveshaft. New oil pan, not bad when front axle was out, lol. Installed a 2 inch spacer lift also. I know, its not that great but it was $70 new, Rough Country. I cant afford the nice proper lift for now. Only have the winch, skid plates, and lights to install and its done for a while. I hope at least, haha. I have 3 other projects that need to be done.

Update suspension to at the very least OME HD springs and OME or Bilstein shocks
spacer lift and worn out springs and shocks will never hold up under the extra weight of the bumper and winch. You'll be soon replacing many worn out parts from that set up. 70 bucks wasted and your time installing in the long run ( 2-3 months )
Sorry have seen it happen too many times over the years

It will be done right later, didnt have the cash at the time to get the full suspension. Ill be getting JBA control arms, better lift, etc.. This wasnt meant to be long term, just to get by for a year or so. Reason it took that long was not working on it every day. Have other cars and a truck to drive.

Hey Mark, soon will be taking my front OME 2.5” lift OFF for the JBA struts (as soon as next sat). The rear (coils and shocks) will be upgrade in about a month if you want them.

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MarkZ28 · **Posted:** Tue Dec 25, 2018 5:41 pm

How much?

Gilcano · **Posted:** Tue Dec 25, 2018 6:50 pm

MarkZ28 wrote:

How much?

Have OME 2927 & 2731, not sure which is front and which is rear. Will let you know when they are out.

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tommudd · **Posted:** Wed Dec 26, 2018 1:17 am

Gilcano wrote:

MarkZ28 wrote:

How much?

Have OME 2927 & 2731, not sure which is front and which is rear. Will let you know when they are out.

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927s are front springs, he would still need shocks of course
PLUS again with that extra weight he really needs 790 front springs, 927s would be marginal for bumper and winch

Gilcano · **Posted:** Fri Dec 28, 2018 6:28 pm

tommudd wrote:

Gilcano wrote:

MarkZ28 wrote:

How much?

Have OME 2927 & 2731, not sure which is front and which is rear. Will let you know when they are out.

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927s are front springs, he would still need shocks of course
PLUS again with that extra weight he really needs 790 front springs, 927s would be marginal for bumper and winch

I think @Tommudd is right because after 6 months with the ATH bumper plus winch my front end started to squeak a lot (changing lower ball joints + JBA Control Arms and Adjustable struts + extended end links). Before the ATH bumper and winch everything was right. Forget to mention that also replaced one wheel bearing.
I think the extra weight had to do a lot with this issues that’s why I decided to go with the upgrade.
Good luck
UPDATE: PS CV axle leaking so ordered both.

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Gilcano · **Posted:** Sat Dec 29, 2018 6:02 pm

Ok job done, some before and after.

Before:

After:

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Gilcano · **Posted:** Sun Jan 06, 2019 7:24 pm

Hey guys now that I installed the JBA Adjust-A-Struts Will like to proceed with the rear but have a question: if I install the 4” shocks with the 4” coils and the extended SS brake line can I get away with the installation of the extended link and track bar for about a month or so?
Thanks

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lfhoward · **Posted:** Sun Jan 06, 2019 8:30 pm

Gilcano wrote:

Hey guys now that I installed the JBA Adjust-A-Struts Will like to proceed with the rear but have a question: if I install the 4” shocks with the 4” coils and the extended SS brake line can I get away with the installation of the extended link and track bar for about a month or so?
Thanks

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With 4” rear springs the stock brake lines will be ok as long as your stock sway bar links are still installed. The suspension will put too much strain on stock lines with the extended links or with the links removed. The ride will be harsher because the stock sway bar links will prevent the springs and shocks from articulating as far as they were designed for. So: yes you can wait to install the extended sway bar links but it will ride much better once you install them. And once you install them you must have extended brake lines to match.

I’m terms of the track bar, I would be really surprised if you could install 4” lifted springs and keep the stock track bar with no ill effects. If I remember correctly what will happen is your rear axle will be moved left of center by an inch or more, which makes it likely that the aluminum drive shaft will rub on the steel gas tank hanger/skid plate. It may not rub constantly but will make contact at various times when your suspension is articulating. I think this would be a safety issue and would advise to wait on 4” rear spring/shock installation until you have an adjustable track bar.

tommudd · **Posted:** Sun Jan 06, 2019 9:41 pm

^^^^^^^^^^^^ yes we know first hand don't we :wink:

lfhoward · **Posted:** Mon Jan 07, 2019 3:39 am

tommudd wrote:

^^^^^^^^^^^^ yes we know first hand don't we :wink:

Yes we do!! Lol.

I had the 4” lift I think for a year and a half before I put on the extended brake lines and you installed the extended sway bar links. Before that the rear end would sort of hop over railroad crossings and just be a bit too harsh over bumps. The extended links really civilized it.

I always had the extended track bar though— never tried to run the lift without it. One big improvement I’ve made since getting the lift is to swap out the heim joints on the ends of the track bar with rod ends with rubber bushings. The suspension is a bit “clicky” with the heims but silent with bushings. Marlin provides a selection for which kind of track bar ends you want on his website. I recommend the Steinjager ends with bushings.

KKnut · **Posted:** Mon Jan 07, 2019 8:46 am

lfhoward wrote:

Gilcano wrote:

lfhoward wrote:

Yes, that’s exactly where I was getting leaks. At least that’s where the water worked it’s way out. I am not completely sure where it was finding it’s way in. My rubber cement fix was not 100% successful, although it did reduce the amount of water getting in. I may have to take another look at the roof around the roof rack studs (under the side bar feet). I sealed them a few years ago but it may need to be done again.

The leak shows in the left hand side, check the spot in the picture:
I have a video inspection camera but couldn’t spotted the place from where the water is coming.

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Mine drips on the right side in the same exact spot, where that metal tab is. If you ever figure it out, I want to know! And I’ll let you know if I find the leak source too. I think it leaks somewhere and then the water travels to that spot, so it’s difficult to nail down where it’s getting in.

There are a number of steel pressings that join within the roof gutter essentially resulting in a lamination of up to 6 sheets. The flexible sealant and painted surface fatigues due to movement enabling moisture to wick into the laminations. I believe any forces applied to the studs (using rails) will hasten the issue.

The issue has been cured on my KK for over 2 years now since removing the studs and riveting down a pair of rack rails with a good amount of adhesive sealant.

Gilcano · **Posted:** Mon Jan 07, 2019 4:29 pm

KKnut wrote:

lfhoward wrote:

Gilcano wrote:

[quote="lfhoward"]Yes, that’s exactly where I was getting leaks. At least that’s where the water worked it’s way out. I am not completely sure where it was finding it’s way in. My rubber cement fix was not 100% successful, although it did reduce the amount of water getting in. I may have to take another look at the roof around the roof rack studs (under the side bar feet). I sealed them a few years ago but it may need to be done again.

The leak shows in the left hand side, check the spot in the picture:
I have a video inspection camera but couldn’t spotted the place from where the water is coming.

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Mine drips on the right side in the same exact spot, where that metal tab is. If you ever figure it out, I want to know! And I’ll let you know if I find the leak source too. I think it leaks somewhere and then the water travels to that spot, so it’s difficult to nail down where it’s getting in.

There are a number of steel pressings that join within the roof gutter essentially resulting in a lamination of up to 6 sheets. The flexible sealant and painted surface fatigues due to movement enabling moisture to wick into the laminations. I believe any forces applied to the studs (using rails) will hasten the issue.[/quote]

Hey do you have a picture to where you put the silicone at? I have the same issue.
Thanks

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KKnut · **Posted:** Tue Jan 08, 2019 4:18 pm

Gilcano wrote:

Hey do you have a picture to where you put the silicone at? I have the same issue.
Thanks

I do somewhere and a video of the flexing too but need to find the iPad the files are on. Essentially the adhesive sealant (Sika 227 from memory) was applied from the front above the forward doors all the way to the rear end. The rack rail on top of this would also be sealing off the gutter so I’m not sure if just applying silicone along the length will be effective?

Gilcano · **Posted:** Wed Jan 09, 2019 2:39 pm

lfhoward wrote:

tommudd wrote:

^^^^^^^^^^^^ yes we know first hand don't we :wink:

Yes we do!! Lol.

I had the 4” lift I think for a year and a half before I put on the extended brake lines and you installed the extended sway bar links. Before that the rear end would sort of hop over railroad crossings and just be a bit too harsh over bumps. The extended links really civilized it.

I always had the extended track bar though— never tried to run the lift without it. One big improvement I’ve made since getting the lift is to swap out the heim joints on the ends of the track bar with rod ends with rubber bushings. The suspension is a bit “clicky” with the heims but silent with bushings. Marlin provides a selection for which kind of track bar ends you want on his website. I recommend the Steinjager ends with bushings.

Mr. @tommudd or @lfhoward, what about if I decide to go to 3.5” (saw the “econolift” at JBA website) which coils do I need in the rear to get to 3.5”? Do I need “isolators”? And with the 3.5” I’ll still need the Trackbar+extended brake lines and the extended rear links? I’ll appreciate your help and comments.
Thanks

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What have you done to your KK lately

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