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 Post subject: ESP On/Off Switch install "For off road use."
PostPosted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 10:49 pm 
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Another Mod to cross off my list. YEA!
This turns off the ESP completely!
There are a lot of Pics in this one so bare with me.
Any way I will start with a shopping list & tools.

1- 40 Amp relay (5 post) Napa part # 191 (*See Note at bottom*)
1- 40 Amp Stock fuse
1- Switch for the dash (I chose a non lighted one)
1- Can of Plasti-Dip
1- Roll of masking tape
11- Female fully insulated wire connectors
2- Male fully insulated wire connectors
2- Male partially insulated wire connectors
2- Butt connectors
2- Loop connectors
1- In-Line 5 Amp fuse
1- Roll Electrical tape
A whole bunch of wire... 5 different colors
2- 9 inch long very small bare coper wire. (You could strip off the insulation from one of the above and then peel off a single wire)
1- 3/8" Plug
1- 3/8" Rubber washer (I made one from a piece of inner-tube)
1- 3/8 " Grommet
1- tube ATV Black silicon sealant

TOOLS:
Wire strippers/crimper's
Drill, 1/8" bit
Small round file
Hacksaw or scroll saw
Small flat file
Long sharpened coat hanger for an awl
Patience and a lot of it!

Below is a Wire color chart followed by a diagram.
It is the best I could make. SO LIVE WITH IT!

Relay activation:
Red wire for the power to "activate" the relay.
Black wire from the relay to the dash switch.
White wire to ground the dash switch.
Circuit wires:
Yellow w/Red stripe for the "always on" wire from the original fuse post in the fuse box, to the "remote" fuse, then to the relay.
Yellow for the return wire from the relay to the other original fuse post.
(Note: The 87 post on the relay is not used.)
(Caution: The 87 post has power to it when the relay is activated. Cap the post if you do not use it!)
Image

Now for the fun stuff...
The first thing I did was to disconnect the negative battery cable. Then I drilled a hole in the fuse box. I was very concerned with the possibility of water getting in, so I took extra care to not damage the seal around the top. I first drilled a 1/8" hole and then made it bigger with the round file till it was 3/8" round.
Image

This is where the Plug with the rubber washer will go when I have service done. And also where the Grommet and wires will go when I am playing.
Image

Image

The next thing I did was to make a wire harness for the relay.
Image

Image

After I tied the wire together I dipped the whole thing into the Plasti-Dip.
(Follow the directions on the can) I put 4 layers on it.
I did this for two reason; 1 was to create a water barrier, 2 was to make a plug-in.
Image

This is what it looked like after it dried.
Image

Then I cut off the Plasti-Dip from the top of the relay. Voilà Plug-in.
Image

Next I did the same to the fuse, however on the fuse I used masking tape to cover the part I did not want the dip on.
Image

After I cut off the excess.
Image

Plug in...
Image

Then I wrapped the 2 together with electrical tape and connected the Yellow w/Red striped wires.
(One from the Relay and one from the fuse.)
Image

On the drivers side fire-wall there is a stud used to hold a hanger for the stock wire harness. I pulled the hanger off the stud and put on the Relay/ Fuse bundle.
Image

Here is what it looks like with the stock wires back in place.
Image

Next I removed the negative battery cable, opened the fuse box, and removed the J6 fuse.
(Caution: The Post I have circled in this Pic always has power to it. Even with the rig turned off!)
Image

I ran the wires threw the grommet and then connected the Female fully insulated wire connectors on the ends. You have to do it this way or the connectors will not fit threw the grommet.
(Red striped from the "remote" fuse and Yellow from the relay.)
Then I sealed the grommet with the Black ATV silicone.
Image

I routed the wire inside the fuse box and connected them to the J6 fuse posts.
Image

Note the wire with the red stripe goes to the "Always on" post.
Image

Now I ran the wire into the rig for the switch.
I used the sharpened coat hanger to poke a hole threw the rubber grommet where the factory wires come threw the fire-wall. I taped the Black wire to the coat hanger so it would go threw at the same time.
Sorry no Pic it is just too dark under there.
Once threw the fire-wall I taped the Black and White wires together. Then neatly ran the wires up next to the gage cluster and out on the right side.
Image

The White wire comes down just to the left, of the center of the foot well, to a grounding point. There really isn't much under there to ground too, so I drilled a hole into the metal plate and used a self-tapping metal screw, to attached the wire.
Image

I removed the gage cluster bezel and made the hole for the switch on the right side of the steering wheel.
Image

To complete the circuit I ran the Red wire from the relay to an in-line 5 Amp fuse, then connected it to the positive terminal on the fuse box.
No Pic here either because I forgot to get one before I taped everything up.
I keep these in the glove box for service visits.
Image

Any way...
The relay and switch work great!
When the dash switch is in the "off" (Open circuit) position the power comes from the "always on" post in the fuse box, threw the Yellow w/Red striped wire, to the "remote" fuse, out of the "remote" fuse, over to the relay, threw the relay, and back down the Yellow wire, to the other post in the fuse box.
Everything functions as normal.

When you turn the dash switch to the "On" (Closed circuit) position the relay turns off the power from the Yellow w/Red striped wire. Disabling the ESP, ABS, and BAS systems. The lights on the dash will light up letting you know it is disabled.
The braking ability of your ride should work as normal except the ABS and the traction control, will not work.

To get the system back to normal, turn the dash switch to the "Off" (Open circuit) position. Then you will need to turn the rig off, and restart it. Drive it a few feet forward and the dash lights will go off.
All is back to normal.

(*Note: Since the Nitro uses a 40 Amp fuse, I was not comfortable using a 30/40 relay, which is much more common and cheaper. The first number "30" is the amperage the relay is designed to handle threw the "87A post" which is the one used for this Mod. The second number "40" is the amperage the relay is designed to handle threw the "87 post" which is not used in this Mod.*)

Do this at your own risk.
It is illegal to have the ESP disabled on a vehicle, while it is being driven on the road.
I take no responsibility for any modifications you decide to make to your ride, or the results of those modifications.
I do not advise ever using this anywhere but at the race track or off road, and NEVER use this in bad weather, because your ability to control the vehicle in slippery conditions will be greatly impaired.

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Home made; Front Tilt Hood, Roof Rack, RAM Air, & CAI.
ESP Off Switch
Take a ride on the Trō side!

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Last edited by Scar0 on Thu Mar 25, 2010 7:58 pm, edited 7 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: ESP On/Off Switch install
PostPosted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 11:01 pm 
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I like it

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 Post subject: Re: ESP On/Off Switch install
PostPosted: Fri Mar 19, 2010 11:56 pm 
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Top job!

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 Post subject: Re: ESP On/Off Switch install
PostPosted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 1:56 am 
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Another awesome how to post Scar0! Thanks for the details and the great pictures. This ought to be in the tech section! Great job. :D

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 Post subject: Re: ESP On/Off Switch install
PostPosted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 9:53 pm 
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What gauge wires did you use for all that? was it ALL the same gauge or did u use bigger from the relay to the fuse/battery? Ive been meaning to do this mod myself for a bit but have been busy doing mechanical work to the KK. I was going to use a different method to kill power going to that fuse, but i think i like your idea better since your way would be easier to get it back to lookin like "normal" so the service guys wont gimmie a hard time at the stealership :jester:

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 Post subject: Re: ESP On/Off Switch install
PostPosted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 10:42 pm 
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Great job Scar0.

Digger, should we move this to the Technical section as a "how to"?

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 Post subject: Re: ESP On/Off Switch install
PostPosted: Sat Mar 20, 2010 10:44 pm 
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clacker wrote:
What gauge wires did you use for all that? was it ALL the same gauge or did u use bigger from the relay to the fuse/battery? Ive been meaning to do this mod myself for a bit but have been busy doing mechanical work to the KK. I was going to use a different method to kill power going to that fuse, but i think i like your idea better since your way would be easier to get it back to lookin like "normal" so the service guys wont gimmie a hard time at the stealership :jester:

I used 16 gauge wire for it all. :roll: Because I just wanted to get it done.

If anything I would recommend changing the Yellow w/Red stripe and Yellow wires to a 14 (better) or even a 12 gauge (ideal) wire. Just to be on the safe side.
I will have to do this myself to be on the safe side.
See this Amperage to gauge chart for recommended wire gauges and lengths.

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Home made; Front Tilt Hood, Roof Rack, RAM Air, & CAI.
ESP Off Switch
Take a ride on the Trō side!

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 Post subject: Re: ESP On/Off Switch install
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 12:33 am 
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MtnLuvr wrote:

Digger, should we move this to the Technical section as a "how to"?



Gotta check something out first...........

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 Post subject: Re: ESP On/Off Switch install
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 1:14 am 
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i still odnt know whether its j6 or j7

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 Post subject: Re: ESP On/Off Switch install
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 1:31 am 
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J6 :wink:

Look at the first picture

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Prototype JBA 4 Inch Lift - JBA UCA's - Flowmaster Super 44 OR - Whacked Resonator
Jet Stage 2 - RL Gecko Basket Rack - Custom Winch Bumper - Recon 10.5K Winch
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 Post subject: Re: ESP On/Off Switch install
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 1:32 am 
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Jeepin_it_real wrote:
i still odnt know whether its j6 or j7

In the first post wiring diagram... J6 ABS pump.
I should also add that so far the wires have not heated up that I can feel to the touch.
My longest drive has been 30 minutes so far. So far, so Good.
When I take the rig up to our property in the mountains I will feel the wires again. If they heat up on that trip, I will go to a 14 gauge wire for all the Yellow and Yellow w/Red stripe wires in the diagram.

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Home made; Front Tilt Hood, Roof Rack, RAM Air, & CAI.
ESP Off Switch
Take a ride on the Trō side!

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 Post subject: Re: ESP On/Off Switch install
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 1:36 am 
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whats j7 do though?

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 Post subject: Re: ESP On/Off Switch install
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 1:47 am 
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Jeepin_it_real wrote:
whats j7 do though?


It keeps your KK from blowing up :goink:

:ROTFL: :ROTFL: :ROTFL: :ROTFL:

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Jet Stage 2 - RL Gecko Basket Rack - Custom Winch Bumper - Recon 10.5K Winch
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 Post subject: Re: ESP On/Off Switch install
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 1:51 am 
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well wasnt there a fuss between j6 and another one(i thouhgt that was j7)... is that resolved and j6 is the one that definitely turns off esp?

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 Post subject: Re: ESP On/Off Switch install
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 2:06 am 
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Jeepin_it_real wrote:
whats j7 do though?

J7 is for the ABS Valve module, This is what controls the pulsing feeling in the brakes when you brake too hard. It is the combination of the valve opening and closing (which is controlled by the combination of the wheel speed sensors, speed of the vehicle, the Anti-lock brake control module and the ABS pump) which causes the pulsing sensation you feel in the brakes.

If you pull this fuse the valves will not work correctly and the ABS pump could just lock your brakes.
Or worse, it could possibly decrease the pressure to the brakes to the point of no brakes (Because the Valves could get stuck in the closed position.), and even possibly create so much pressure in the brake lines that you could blow a hose (Because the Valves could get stuck in the open position.).

See this for ABS explanation.

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Home made; Front Tilt Hood, Roof Rack, RAM Air, & CAI.
ESP Off Switch
Take a ride on the Trō side!

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Last edited by Scar0 on Sun Mar 21, 2010 2:11 am, edited 1 time in total.

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 Post subject: Re: ESP On/Off Switch install
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 2:11 am 
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ahhh gotcha... alright i was just trying to clear up something that mustve went over my head... last thing i knew was j6 and j7 were both said to do something ot ESP, so j6 it is then haha

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 Post subject: Re: ESP On/Off Switch install
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 8:04 am 
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Again I feel the need to remind folks that this Mod is for "non-street" use only. The ESP system is there for a reason.

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Home made; Front Tilt Hood, Roof Rack, RAM Air, & CAI.
ESP Off Switch
Take a ride on the Trō side!

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 Post subject: Re: ESP On/Off Switch install
PostPosted: Sun Mar 21, 2010 10:25 am 
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Great mod and write-up.

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 Post subject: Re: ESP On/Off Switch install "For off road use."
PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 1:22 pm 
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Where did you get the 40 amp relay? Every where I go they only have 30/40 relays which I know will not work.

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 Post subject: Re: ESP On/Off Switch install "For off road use."
PostPosted: Sat Jan 08, 2011 5:52 pm 
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Jeepin_it_real wrote:
Where did you get the 40 amp relay? Every where I go they only have 30/40 relays which I know will not work.

http://www.jcwhitney.com/40-amp-relay-w ... map=11339G

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