So I have the stock 8 inch sub. Now, I like to listen to my music loud and the stock system is awesome as far as speakers go. However, when I turn the music up really loud the subwoofer will make a popping noise. So I'll go into the audio controls and turn the sub down a little bit, it still pops, turn it down more, etc. I'm wondering if it's possible to upgrade to a more powerful sub but keep the stock wiring and speaker set up, meaning not putting in an amp, and I won't have the popping noise. I want to keep the sub where it is...out of the way...so if I can avoid getting a box and amp that would be great.

Thanks in advance.

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2012 Jeep Liberty "Arctic" Edition. 2.5" OME lift, 1/4" clevis spacers, 245/75R16 GY Wrangler Duratracs, AtTheHelms steel front bumper, semi gloss black emblems and fuel door, 15% tint all around.

You sure can...just unplug the speaker from amp wires and replace

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2002 KJ Limited 3.7, 5.25" lift via coilovers, custom HD rear springs, 32.2" tires on moabs (soon 33s) 4.56/JBA diff, OX lockers front/rear, NP241OR, Parker Fab front/rear bumpers, rock rails and roof rack, Viair OBA.

2006 KJ sport 3.7, 4" Ironman lift, 32" tires, Parker Fab front/rear bumpers and rock rails.

I realize it won't be anymore powerful but I won't get that annoying popping sound anymore right? And any idea what the stock watts for the sub is?

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2012 Jeep Liberty "Arctic" Edition. 2.5" OME lift, 1/4" clevis spacers, 245/75R16 GY Wrangler Duratracs, AtTheHelms steel front bumper, semi gloss black emblems and fuel door, 15% tint all around.

It's possible that the popping noise is being caused by the amp being overdriven

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'08, OME HD/MD coils, Ironman shocks, Al's A-arms, Top plates, ATH front recovery, V-Tec Offroad wheels 17x8.5, Goodyear Wrangler DuraTrac's 265/65R17, Jasper Offroad 12" Dual LED lightbar, Mopar hitch and harness, RRO roof rails and cross bars, Viper throttle body, K&N FIPK, Hypertech Max Energy

When I first got the libby I had the bass turned up all the way. Then it did it's popping dealio so I turned it down two notches and didn't notice again. A little later I turned it back up one notch and it was fine. Then it started popping again. So I turned it down one notch, still popped, turned it down another notch, still did it. Basically the highest setting is 9 and it's turned down to 5 right now and it's still popping.

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2012 Jeep Liberty "Arctic" Edition. 2.5" OME lift, 1/4" clevis spacers, 245/75R16 GY Wrangler Duratracs, AtTheHelms steel front bumper, semi gloss black emblems and fuel door, 15% tint all around.

Look into a bigger sub, around 12" to give a good balance. The 8 can't move that much air. If you must have an 8. Look into the DD1508 and a DD m4 amplifier.

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3.7 KJ LTD
OME Lift
Bridgestone D697's
Thule Expedition Basket
Polk Audio
Decat and full system + Piggyback (145kw - 300nm)

I had to do the Same with mine! It came with the infinity sound system
Wasn't to happy with my bass and every time I would turn up the bass it would turn up the bass on the door speakers and make them rattle,
I went out to a local car and audio shop and they replaced my stock sub with a 8 inch kicker sub and a amp for only 200 so now I get my bass from the sub and the door speakers are my mids
I'm happy happy happy

Good to know. Thanks!

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2012 Jeep Liberty "Arctic" Edition. 2.5" OME lift, 1/4" clevis spacers, 245/75R16 GY Wrangler Duratracs, AtTheHelms steel front bumper, semi gloss black emblems and fuel door, 15% tint all around.

8's can move plenty of air if in the right enclosure... OP it makes sense to just get a better 8, put it in a ported enclosure, and get an amp to match the subs requirements. you'll notice such a difference from the stock 8