So I never put in rear bump stops in back when I installed my lift in the fall but lately decided to do it just as a cheap insurance against a blown shock. I tried to do it with hockey pucks today and ended up with a broken step bit and smoking drill. I did get enough of a hole started to use a self tapping bolt, however that also twisted apart so now I'll have to drill that out too The only good that came from me wrenching today was adding an iso to level out the infamous KK lean.

To those of you that drilled through the perch mount, what did you use to drill and how did you fasten it? The drill and bits I used were all harbor freight specials, which could explain the breaking.

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2008 Liberty Sport
OME Lift, JBA A-Arms + Track Bar
245/75/16 Nokian Rotiiva AT Plus
Numerous junkyard upgrades

A few different sized carbide drill bits made quick work out of mine. Why did you try to use a step bit?

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'08, OME HD/MD coils, Ironman shocks, Al's A-arms, Top plates, ATH front recovery, V-Tec Offroad wheels 17x8.5, Goodyear Wrangler DuraTrac's 265/65R17, Jasper Offroad 12" Dual LED lightbar, Mopar hitch and harness, RRO roof rails and cross bars, Viper throttle body, K&N FIPK, Hypertech Max Energy

Wow never seen a step bit break, gotta love harbor freight. I usually grab my unibit when I need to enlarge a hole rather than starting one. Go as slow as you can with heavy pressure and use motor oil as cutting fluid. A right angle adapter (or better yet a right angle drill) will make it more comfortable too.
I was too lazy to drill mine out so I just "glued" them in with rtv sealer. I only run one per side which works great and they haven't fallen out for over a year.

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2010 KK 4WD BRILLIANT BLACK
Fox/King/Bilstein ATH BUMPERS ATH RACK GY DURATRACS

ATHFAB.com

I used a drill, a 90° angle adapter, and a 13/32” standard drill bit, after I center punched the drilling point. Had no problems at all. You do need to temporarily remove the upper bump stop to get enough room though.
You can see Pics in the How-to part 2.

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07 KA Light Khaki, Manual trany.
2.5" Adjust-A-Strut JBA lift, Euro taillights,
Home made; Front Tilt Hood, Roof Rack, RAM Air, & CAI.
ESP Off Switch
Take a ride on the Trō side!

Quality drill bits are the key, like anything else cheaper ones just don't get it
I've drilled a bunch of them starting them with a 1/4 inch 90 degree Sears drill I bought in 1970 and finish with a regular drill and 3/8 inch drill bit

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

I just used a regular American quality drill bit. Harbor freight drill bits don't cut the mustard.
Drilled nicely through the pucks, too.

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2012 Liberty Latitude 4x4,3.7L,42RLE,MP1522,D30M/8.25"@3.73,215/85R-16 LTX A/T2,Bright White
1974 CJ5,258,T14a,D20,D30/D44@3.73,TransAm Red