rocker switches questions

Cherokeeshrop91 · **Joined:** Mon Aug 19, 2013 11:51 pm **Posts:** 40

hey all i was wondering,
i know plenty of you have installed aftermarket switches for various things. what i was hoping you all could help me out on is wiring. are all your aftermarket things wired to the battery or fuze box or what? if they are to the battery, how do you keep things clean looking and from drawing to much power from the battery. i'm asking because im thinking about in stalling 3 to 5 switches for various things. thanks for the help.

KKnut · **Posted:** Sat Jul 12, 2014 10:11 am

How are you at reading electrical schematics? I have a neat circuit design that sounds like what you described.

DetroitKK · **Posted:** Thu Jul 17, 2014 3:18 pm

I would love to take a look at that diagram. I'm plannin on adding some lights and a few other things but I haven't gotten around to how I'm going to wire everything up yet!

Texasrugby911 · **Joined:** Thu Feb 04, 2010 3:18 pm **Posts:** 196

Here is what I have:

The switches are crooked in that picture but I had AtTheHelm make me one that fit the switches much more snugly.
I ran all the cables myself and have integrated the dimmer switch as well so it also looks great at night. The power cables are run to the TIMP accessory relay so when I pull my keys out, the lights stay on for as long as the radio does (a few minutes) then turns off. It keeps me from accidentally running out the battery. I also wired up the Winch Power and Winch In/Out a few weeks ago, and I would be happy to answer any questions you may have.

KKnut · **Posted:** Sat Aug 09, 2014 6:54 am

Sorry for delay, will upload the diagram shortly.

ajdrummer · **Posted:** Wed Aug 13, 2014 7:36 pm

Where did you get the switches from?

At The Helm · **Posted:** Wed Aug 13, 2014 8:15 pm

Those are from otrattw.com, they make custom etched Carling V rocker switches.

ajdrummer · **Posted:** Thu Aug 14, 2014 9:25 am

Atthehelm wrote:

Those are from otrattw.com, they make custom etched Carling V rocker switches.

Thanks...also ATH didn't u make the switch housing?

At The Helm · **Posted:** Thu Aug 14, 2014 10:28 am

Yeah I made a few of them. Those were all cut out by hand, and the holes had to be perfect or they sat crooked like above (replaced that one). Tried getting them cnc cut but gave up as my parts cutter doesn't really deal with thin gauge steel..

ajdrummer · **Posted:** Thu Aug 14, 2014 12:15 pm

oh ok yea 2 bad someone cant make them out of plastic! Is a perfect spot for the switches

lfhoward · **Posted:** Thu Aug 14, 2014 8:51 pm

You could ask LongTallTexan to fab them, because he has a 3D printer. He's made intake tubes and spacers for LOST forum members out of plastic. If he's willing, you could send him the CAD design for the switch panel and he could print the parts.

At The Helm · **Posted:** Thu Aug 14, 2014 9:16 pm

lfhoward wrote:

You could ask LongTallTexan to fab them, because he has a 3D printer. He's made intake tubes and spacers for LOST forum members out of plastic. If he's willing, you could send him the CAD design for the switch panel and he could print the parts.

I was thinking the exact same thing..

KKnut · **Posted:** Sat Aug 16, 2014 4:10 am

Again, sorry for the delay. Started a new job and didn't want to just upload my handwritten scribbles.

This info is common knowledge for many but I'll assume very little experience for readers with my description:
It's still a fairly basic electrical schematic for adding some low amperage accessories to your vehicle whilst keeping it as separate as possible from the factory wiring. If you're running higher amperage items like spot lights, fridge, etc, then you'd use a dedicated relay circuit per accessory (the left side of diagram). It's common best practice to use a correctly selected relay to operate any new electrical accessories. A perfect example being where spot lights are operated by a relay activated via fog lights or high beam, just energize the relay coil from the active connection of the device you want to use as the trigger. Always place a fuse close to the battery and a kill switch isn't a bad idea either.

In my case I've mounted a high amperage self resetting circuit breaker straight off the battery so I know any short circuits beyond there will be protected.

The accessory switch is a common 30A 12volt rocker with LED indicator but now there are some great custom labelled switches selling very cheaply.

Relay is a common 30A horn relay.

Low voltage override is a common dual pole dual throw toggle switch.

I used a missile switch cover on this as I didn't want it activated by accident.

Low voltage override indicator LED is a 12v flashing type.

Hope this helps someone. :JEEPIN:

PDFs of the circuit operations:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-3SPy ... sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-3SPy ... sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-3SPy ... sp=sharing
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-3SPy ... sp=sharing

Here's a gif showing the same thing:
https://drive.google.com/file/d/0B-3SPy ... sp=sharing

ajdrummer · **Posted:** Sun Sep 21, 2014 3:25 pm

quote="lfhoward"]You could ask LongTallTexan to fab them, because he has a 3D printer. He's made intake tubes and spacers for LOST forum members out of plastic. If he's willing, you could send him the CAD design for the switch panel and he could print the parts.[/quote]

Does anyone have the CAD design?

rocker switches questions

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