2011 Liberty with 4" lift springs
Debating on the blistein 5100 or the 7100 series
What are the pros and cons besides price

The 5100 series is the line of shocks that are meant for lifted trucks, its still a basic automotive shock, no remote reservoir or anything like that.
That's the 7100 series they have the remote reservoir. They also have a zinc plated silver finish.
Ride wise would be of course the 7100 series since they also have the remote to keep them cooler when running long distances
With that said have installed and driven a lot with the 5100 series and ride and handling was very good

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

Tom, the current 5100s have that same finish.

Basically the 7100 is rebuildable and the 5100 isn't. The 7100s also tend to have a remote reservoir(I believe some don't...), where the 5100 doesn't.

Theoretically they would ride the same as long as valving is the same. If it has a remote reservoir that same ride will last longer under harsh conditionals and extended time offroad. Between the 2 choices the 7100s are top of the line, the 5100s are budget that will still get the job done for most people(that includes a lot of Wrangler owners too).

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2011 Deep Cherry Red KK - Skyslider - JBA/Bilstein Adjust-A-Strut set at 3.5" - OME 731 Rear Springs - Bilstein Rear Shocks - Al's A-arms - 245/75-16 Duratracs - Rock Liazard Super Sliders

For daily driving and light off-roading the 5100s will be more than adequate in giving you a good ride. I love mine, but sometimes wheel too much for them. By the end of some trails I have definitely noticed some shock fade, but they do tend to cool off fast too.

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Custom Bumper & Rock Rails-JBA 4.5" Lift-Custom 4.5" HD Springs-16x8 M13 Rims-265/75 Pro Comp MT2s-Yukon 4.56s-Front DTT-Rear OX Air Locker

Does my summer temperature of 110+ come into effect on intetnal oil temp

Where are you located? 110 makes me thing South West in the desert. If that's the case you might benefit from the remote reservoirs if you like to run the desert a lot.

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2011 Deep Cherry Red KK - Skyslider - JBA/Bilstein Adjust-A-Strut set at 3.5" - OME 731 Rear Springs - Bilstein Rear Shocks - Al's A-arms - 245/75-16 Duratracs - Rock Liazard Super Sliders

Yes an no...yes it would raise them higher than normal but not enough to really affect driving performance. Are you driving fast through desert, or racing? If not you could probably get away with not needing a reservoir.

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Custom Bumper & Rock Rails-JBA 4.5" Lift-Custom 4.5" HD Springs-16x8 M13 Rims-265/75 Pro Comp MT2s-Yukon 4.56s-Front DTT-Rear OX Air Locker

Vegas baby

So what model 7100 would fit my Kk
I only have a phone so looking at the Bilstein website is nearly impossible

Depends on if you run a sway bar, what you want from the Jeep, and if you're going to install extended brake lines. The norm for 4" lift is 2" of bumpstop (2 hockey pucks per side) giving us 16" compression and a 10" travel shock extending to 26". This size will prevent you from needing to extend your brake lines and is what I'm running (and nearly everyone else with 4" lift and Bilstein rear shocks).

5125 series, 10" Travel, 15.91"-25.91", 255/70 Valving: 33-185552

5165 series, 11" Travel, 16.4"-27.4", 255/70 Valving: 25-187717
*This shock is a reservoir shock on a "budget" but will also need extended rear brake lines

7100 series, 10" Travel, 16.1"-25.77, 255/70 Valving: AK7110R04 Reservoir
AK7110S04 Non-reservoir

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Custom Bumper & Rock Rails-JBA 4.5" Lift-Custom 4.5" HD Springs-16x8 M13 Rims-265/75 Pro Comp MT2s-Yukon 4.56s-Front DTT-Rear OX Air Locker

"Budget", I guess if budget is double the price of the 5125/5100s lol. I think they're on par with most 7100s.

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2011 Deep Cherry Red KK - Skyslider - JBA/Bilstein Adjust-A-Strut set at 3.5" - OME 731 Rear Springs - Bilstein Rear Shocks - Al's A-arms - 245/75-16 Duratracs - Rock Liazard Super Sliders

If you're just after a reservoir this would be the way to go. I also like the 360° hose attachment...keeps everything so much neater than the 7100s.

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Custom Bumper & Rock Rails-JBA 4.5" Lift-Custom 4.5" HD Springs-16x8 M13 Rims-265/75 Pro Comp MT2s-Yukon 4.56s-Front DTT-Rear OX Air Locker

What is this No sway bar we talk of ?
And if I'm lifting 4 inches wouldn't I have to extend the Brake lines ... What does the bumps top have to do with it
I'm soooo confused lol

Almost all vehicles have sway bars/antisway bars/antiroll bars in the front and the rear. It helps to limit roll of the body during turns, bumps, emergency maneuvers etc. Some people chose to remove them as they limit flex offroad. Problem is on road handling gets worse. In an emergency situation this is bad, but other than that someone who can actually drive would be fine with day to day driving. The safest bet is to get quick disconnects so you can disconnect them offroad, but still have the swaybars for on-road droving.

Now with 4" rear springs you pretty much max out the rear swaybar and its links to the body. To fix this you need to get extended swaybar links(or just remove it in general). Can you have 4" springs without extended links? Yes. But you will get more flex, a tad bit more height, and a better ride and handling with the extended links.

At 3.5-4" you also need to extend brake lines. If you keep stock swaybar links and don't remove the rear swaybar, you should be fine. If you chose to remove it or get extended links then you'll need to extend brake lines otherwise you can over stress them and break them(which is REALLY bad). If they break, then you have no brakes.

Bumpstops limit up travel. The point is to stop oversized tires from rubbing or hitting body parts, from blowing shocks by over compressing them, and stacking the springs(from over compression). General rule of thumb for extending them is 1" for every 1" of lift. Generally we have it figure out that 2-3" will work with 4" springs in back. Once you get into it more and change things up(long travel or more extended shocks, different rear setups, etc) you can change your bumpstops to work for you. So you can add longer shocks to get more droop, but have to add more bumpstops to save the shock from over compression.

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2011 Deep Cherry Red KK - Skyslider - JBA/Bilstein Adjust-A-Strut set at 3.5" - OME 731 Rear Springs - Bilstein Rear Shocks - Al's A-arms - 245/75-16 Duratracs - Rock Liazard Super Sliders

Almost all vehicles have sway bars/antisway bars/antiroll bars in the front and the rear. It helps to limit roll of the body during turns, bumps, emergency maneuvers etc. Some people chose to remove them as they limit flex offroad. Problem is on road handling gets worse. In an emergency situation this is bad, but other than that someone who can actually drive would be fine with day to day driving. The safest bet is to get quick disconnects so you can disconnect them offroad, but still have the swaybars for on-road droving.

Now with 4" rear springs you pretty much max out the rear swaybar and its links to the body. To fix this you need to get extended swaybar links(or just remove it in general). Can you have 4" springs without extended links? Yes. But you will get more flex, a tad bit more height, and a better ride and handling with the extended links.

At 3.5-4" you also need to extend brake lines. If you keep stock swaybar links and don't remove the rear swaybar, you should be fine. If you chose to remove it or get extended links then you'll need to extend brake lines otherwise you can over stress them and break them(which is REALLY bad). If they break, then you have no brakes.

Bumpstops limit up travel. The point is to stop oversized tires from rubbing or hitting body parts, from blowing shocks by over compressing them, and stacking the springs(from over compression). General rule of thumb for extending them is 1" for every 1" of lift. Generally we have it figure out that 2-3" will work with 4" springs in back. Once you get into it more and change things up(long travel or more extended shocks, different rear setups, etc) you can change your bumpstops to work for you. So you can add longer shocks to get more droop, but have to add more bumpstops to save the shock from over compression.

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2011 Deep Cherry Red KK - Skyslider - JBA/Bilstein Adjust-A-Strut set at 3.5" - OME 731 Rear Springs - Bilstein Rear Shocks - Al's A-arms - 245/75-16 Duratracs - Rock Liazard Super Sliders

Great answer dude ...
Okay I got the springs from al I bought mood sway bar links and I'll extend them 4 inches .. I'm buying a adjustable track bar from qs if I can figure out what Heims and spacers I need ... Think I will do the 7100's maybe ... And will extend the lines myself ...


What recommendations do you have for my rear
I'm doing it slow so I wanna do it right

If you limit the shock's extended length to 26" you won't NEED to extend the rear brake lines (even with a sway bar disconnected). But it is a good safety of mind to extend them. I recently did them and managed to get them sorted out through Crown Performance. Here's my thread regarding them:

viewtopic.php?f=88&t=81956&p=865317#p865317

As for the trackbar, I'd actually recommend Metalcloak's Duroflex Joints as the rod ends, best of both worlds. They're $60 a joint plus the tubing but it's worth it. I'm planning on building one soon myself this way.

BMX, you hit everything pretty much spot on haha.

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Custom Bumper & Rock Rails-JBA 4.5" Lift-Custom 4.5" HD Springs-16x8 M13 Rims-265/75 Pro Comp MT2s-Yukon 4.56s-Front DTT-Rear OX Air Locker

I try to be helpful sometimes lol. Can't always derail topics

I just realized it double posted. Oh well. Do you know how long it took to type that out on my phone? Haha It was all good though, had time to finish my beer and wait for my dinner to finish cooking

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2011 Deep Cherry Red KK - Skyslider - JBA/Bilstein Adjust-A-Strut set at 3.5" - OME 731 Rear Springs - Bilstein Rear Shocks - Al's A-arms - 245/75-16 Duratracs - Rock Liazard Super Sliders

The durolex joints won't fit into the factory pearches right