Gear install cost - necessary to remove front axle?

ajohns1288 · **Posted:** Fri Jul 31, 2015 1:54 pm

I was looking at getting a truetrac in the rear, however I also was planning on eventually getting 4.10s too. This means I'll need 4.10s for the front and since that diff will be out, might as well get a truetrac up front too. How much does a regear cost? I was thinking about 4hrs an axle so $800-1000 total. Is this in the ballpark? Also, how taken apart does the front end need to be. The service manual doesn't mention removing the axle, just the CV shafts.

As far as lockers/limited slips go. I'm pretty set on the truetrac, since I don't rock crawl that much and have to daily drive it in the snow. I was considering selectable lockers, however I don't think I'd use them that much for the price.

John3:17 · **Posted:** Fri Jul 31, 2015 2:23 pm

ajohns1288 wrote:

I was looking at getting a truetrac in the rear, however I also was planning on eventually getting 4.10s too. This means I'll need 4.10s for the front and since that diff will be out, might as well get a truetrac up front too. How much does a regear cost? I was thinking about 4hrs an axle so $800-1000 total. Is this in the ballpark? Also, how taken apart does the front end need to be. The service manual doesn't mention removing the axle, just the CV shafts.

As far as lockers/limited slips go. I'm pretty set on the truetrac, since I don't rock crawl that much and have to daily drive it in the snow. I was considering selectable lockers, however I don't think I'd use them that much for the price.

I bought a 4:10 front diff from the salvage yard. Took it to a local shop - paid $250 installation for the tru-trac. Save yourself some cash if they don't have to take it out and re-install.

Bmxer524 · **Posted:** Fri Jul 31, 2015 2:26 pm

Someone told me it's just easier to drop the front and work on it from a table rather than keeping it in the Jeep.

I've heard great things about the DTT. When I eventually regear, that will probably be what I throw in the front and rear. I don't have a need for a full locker, and I'd need a selectable locker due to how much my Jeep is driven on the street. Too much money for something I'll barely use...

PALiftedKK · **Posted:** Fri Jul 31, 2015 2:50 pm

Bmxer524 wrote:

Someone told me it's just easier to drop the front and work on it from a table rather than keeping it in the Jeep.

I've heard great things about the DTT. When I eventually regear, that will probably be what I throw in the front and rear. I don't have a need for a full locker, and I'd need a selectable locker due to how much my Jeep is driven on the street. Too much money for something I'll barely use...

OX! $200 more then Eaton. Not sure about Eaton, but OX is American made and has passes the tests of time. Not sure how complex the truetracs are.

Maybe just a rear locker and a truetrac in the front.

JeepMorrison · **Joined:** Thu Jul 16, 2009 11:34 am **Posts:** 1236

Reason why I love OX.....no seals to blow like a ARB.

PALiftedKK · **Posted:** Fri Jul 31, 2015 4:22 pm

4x4kayak2112 wrote:

Reason why I love OX.....no seals to blow like a ARB.

Have you seen my pm?

JeepMorrison · **Joined:** Thu Jul 16, 2009 11:34 am **Posts:** 1236

PALiftedKK wrote:

4x4kayak2112 wrote:

Reason why I love OX.....no seals to blow like a ARB.

Have you seen my pm?

Yeah now I did.....my PMs havent been letting me know I have a PM. Weird.

lfhoward · **Posted:** Fri Jul 31, 2015 6:03 pm

This thread may help you too. Many people chimed in with their regear costs.
http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=3&t=79346

Ted15 · **Posted:** Sun Aug 02, 2015 11:29 am

Be VERY picky who you let mess with your axles.
Trutracs are great, I had two of them until the shop that couldn't get it right blamed it on the Trutrac. I now have an Eaton e-locker in the front with a Trutrac in the rear with 4.10's. It takes a day per axle depending where you take it plus parts. Some places make you buy the parts from them so check before but the parts.
You won't find an axle for the KK in a bone yard with 4.10's, they didn't make one.
You'll love the performance and the Trutrac has served me well for a couple years now. I tow a heavy pop up and I can really tell the difference. One thing that I think would be a good addition is a programmer, the program that's in there is quite doggish.
Every time they redid my front, they removed it. Make sure you get an alignment afterwards. They didn't tell me they removed my lower control arms and I was driving around with the front out of alignment for a couple months, not far but my tires started wearing unevenly.

ajohns1288 · **Posted:** Sun Aug 02, 2015 8:55 pm

Ted15 wrote:

Be VERY picky who you let mess with your axles.
Trutracs are great, I had two of them until the shop that couldn't get it right blamed it on the Trutrac. I now have an Eaton e-locker in the front with a Trutrac in the rear with 4.10's. It takes a day per axle depending where you take it plus parts. Some places make you buy the parts from them so check before but the parts.
You won't find an axle for the KK in a bone yard with 4.10's, they didn't make one.
You'll love the performance and the Trutrac has served me well for a couple years now. I tow a heavy pop up and I can really tell the difference. One thing that I think would be a good addition is a programmer, the program that's in there is quite doggish.
Every time they redid my front, they removed it. Make sure you get an alignment afterwards. They didn't tell me they removed my lower control arms and I was driving around with the front out of alignment for a couple months, not far but my tires started wearing unevenly.

The shop I'm looking, Drivetrain specialists in metro Detroit, has good reviews, although I don't know how much IFS diffs they work on. How is the e-locker? I was thinking of something like that, but I feel I'd get more use out of a LSD front in the snow/mud then I would a locker off-road. I was also considering looking for a spare front axle for them to setup on the bench that I would be able to install myself.

lfhoward · **Posted:** Sun Aug 02, 2015 9:15 pm

ajohns1288 wrote:

I was also considering looking for a spare front axle for them to setup on the bench that I would be able to install myself.

Took a quick look at Car-Part.com for "carrier assembly - front" (the front differential) for 2008-12 Liberty/Nitro and I found some in my area for as little as $150. You should also have a good selection of parts, being from Detroit.

Ted15 · **Posted:** Sun Aug 02, 2015 9:38 pm

ajohns1288 wrote:

Ted15 wrote:

Be VERY picky who you let mess with your axles.
Trutracs are great, I had two of them until the shop that couldn't get it right blamed it on the Trutrac. I now have an Eaton e-locker in the front with a Trutrac in the rear with 4.10's. It takes a day per axle depending where you take it plus parts. Some places make you buy the parts from them so check before but the parts.
You won't find an axle for the KK in a bone yard with 4.10's, they didn't make one.
You'll love the performance and the Trutrac has served me well for a couple years now. I tow a heavy pop up and I can really tell the difference. One thing that I think would be a good addition is a programmer, the program that's in there is quite doggish.
Every time they redid my front, they removed it. Make sure you get an alignment afterwards. They didn't tell me they removed my lower control arms and I was driving around with the front out of alignment for a couple months, not far but my tires started wearing unevenly.

Trutracs are great in the snow. It's hard to steer in 4WD with the locker engaged. Trutracs seem to be the best option for every day driving and they work pretty well of road too. I wouldn't left the Trutrac in but the shop that installed it wouldn't repair it any more, they wanted to put it back to stock, that wasn't an option so I paid the difference and got an e-locker. It should do better off road.

The shop I'm looking, Drivetrain specialists in metro Detroit, has good reviews, although I don't know how much IFS diffs they work on. How is the e-locker? I was thinking of something like that, but I feel I'd get more use out of a LSD front in the snow/mud then I would a locker off-road. I was also considering looking for a spare front axle for them to setup on the bench that I would be able to install myself.

Ted15 · **Posted:** Sun Aug 02, 2015 9:40 pm

Something strange happened with my reply lol

ajohns1288 · **Posted:** Mon Aug 03, 2015 8:45 pm

I gave DTS a call and their labor is $360 an axle, however I have a feeling that goes up for an IFS. All together the parts and install kits are about $1700 plus labor would be around $2500, probably more so I still have to save up. Eaton is giving up to a $70 rebate on truetracs though until the end of August so I'm going to buy now to save a few $$. That plus my $100 I won at the Jeep Jamboree makes me :pepper:

NAMoulton1 · **Joined:** Tue Aug 12, 2014 7:01 pm **Posts:** 1054

I believe I payed about $3600 for Yukon gears, master overhaul kits, (5) Pro Comp MT2s ($1250 + $45 install), and install. I was definitely quoted more than others because they did need to drop the front axle. I can guarantee it'll be cheaper if you drop the axle and give it to them.

I'm definitely okay with the money I spent though since each axle is insured and the guys I went to have an EXCELLENT reputation doing the jobs that's just too tough for even the slightly above average mechanic.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Aug 04, 2015 3:49 pm

ajohns1288 wrote:

I gave DTS a call and their labor is $360 an axle, however I have a feeling that goes up for an IFS. All together the parts and install kits are about $1700 plus labor would be around $2500, probably more so I still have to save up. Eaton is giving up to a $70 rebate on truetracs though until the end of August so I'm going to buy now to save a few $$. That plus my $100 I won at the Jeep Jamboree makes me :pepper:

Expect 5 hours of extra labor added for the R&I of the front diff.

Gear install cost - necessary to remove front axle?

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