I just completed the ARB front/rear axle & pump/switches swap from my '05 gasser (sold) to my '05 CRD (I will be cold-and-dead but it will still be idling in the driveway, itching for adventure...).
I see no reason why this pump needs to be mounted in a "flat" location. Here's the pump mounting location I finally settled on. It's acceptable, but I wished I'd set it about 1/2" further back 'cuz there's only 1/2" of space behind the headlight. To ease access, remove the two bolts securing the PS cooling-line and move it out of the way during pump install (viewable @ last pics in post):
Note how it was necessary to use the 'ole beijing vibro-tool to hum a small (ugly) notch in the bottom of the battery tray:
The mounting-location of the switches was chosen by the PO of the donor-Gasser. At first I thought it would be a knee-banger but in actuality not a problem. Imo, a plus is that the constant-on f/r "ready" lights are not another nighttime dash-distraction:
The trim-panel hinges downward, secured by two upper clips. I just swapped the trims between gasser and CRD; getting those plasti-formed hinges to snap-out was NOT easy (wonder-bar duty), but at least they aren't brittle plastic:
UPDATE: Geordi schooled me; if you drop it and then slide it to the left, the trim panel easily pops out.
ZOOM-IN and you can observe which wire/circuit the ARB taps into; it's a big-boy, pink w/ yellow-stripe if I recall. Although there's a couple fatties in that loom, "the" one is the most accessible of them:
Marginally related, if you ever have the left-headlight, grill etc. removed, take the time to update the ground that has given others trouble.
The existing (undersized) mounting bolt may break (yup) or refuse to loosen (= grinder-duty). If so, it's faster to just drill a fresh ground location adjacent to the old hole. I found the space just to the right ideal (in the close-up, you can see the old bolt-stub just left of the fresh hole). The ARB pump will still fit behind the new ground location.
I swapped an abrasive-disc onto my grinder to clean both the unified cables' copper ground-plate as well as to remove the OEM paint and expose raw metal on the body-mount location. Everything gets Electro-Salsa to dress the wounds and help prevent rust on fresh metals:
I ran an additional wire from the new bolt directly to the battery-terminal ground; short and sweet. No such thing as too many grounds.