JBA A-ARMS Liberty KK and Camber Problem

BRUNEZ · **Posted:** Tue Jun 07, 2016 4:45 am

Hi all,
i mounted on my KK a-arms but now i have some camber (positive) problem.
Maybe i make a mistake on mount a-arms or other...
I used also OME hard springs and Rancho 9000xl for a total of 2" more stock.
My car is KK 2011 with diesel engine.
I show you some photo about DRIVER side (Left)

-

Now i ask a couple of things about my assembly...
1 - A-ARMS for left side is correct or maybe make a shift from left to right ?
2 - I read that some user "grow" his KK about 4\5", i have camber problem with only 2"... why ?

Sorry for my bad english bro, write from Italy and thanks to all can help me.

PALiftedKK · **Posted:** Tue Jun 07, 2016 7:36 am

i was in marlins office 2 months ago and saw he had a shipment to Italy. coincidence.... i think not.

positive camber really inst a huge deal. its caster and toe that should be close to perfect.

make sure those upper ball joints are packed.

speaking of your KK, lets see that power house!!!! there's not one diesel KK on here. frequent

BRUNEZ · **Posted:** Tue Jun 07, 2016 9:45 am

PALiftedKK wrote:

i was in marlins office 2 months ago and saw he had a shipment to Italy. coincidence.... i think not.

positive camber really inst a huge deal. its caster and toe that should be close to perfect.

make sure those upper ball joints are packed.

speaking of your KK, lets see that power house!!!! there's not one diesel KK on here. frequent

Hi,
no, is not my kk for shipment, i bought my A-arms one year ago but only now find the time for assembly.

I tight the ball at 122 Nm. like instruction, the ball joints are packed without wheel like the photo posted.
With this camber positive is visible that the wheel have more rubber consumption on external side.

If you have time can you post some photo of your ball joint and a-arms ? i' ll want to check the mounting difference from your to my A-arms, maybe i make some mistake.

Thank you

At The Helm · **Posted:** Tue Jun 07, 2016 10:08 am

You didn't mention if you took it in to a shop for an alignment, did you do that?
If so, post a pic of the sheet the shop gave you of your alignment numbers.

BRUNEZ · **Posted:** Tue Jun 07, 2016 10:43 am

At The Helm wrote:

You didn't mention if you took it in to a shop for an alignment, did you do that?
If so, post a pic of the sheet the shop gave you of your alignment numbers.

Yes, i went to shop for alignment but i don' t have the stamp because the printer was brake, tomorrow i go again and they give me all.
After that i post the alignment data.

G.O.A.T. · **Joined:** Wed Jan 27, 2016 1:11 am **Posts:** 149

This post is a waste of bandwidth without actual alignment spec sheets.

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tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Tue Jun 07, 2016 9:44 pm

PALiftedKK wrote:

i was in marlins office 2 months ago and saw he had a shipment to Italy. coincidence.... i think not.

positive camber really inst a huge deal. its caster and toe that should be close to perfect.

make sure those upper ball joints are packed.

speaking of your KK, lets see that power house!!!! there's not one diesel KK on here. frequent

Camber and toe need to be in spec,caster can be out but needs to have no more then 0.5 degrees cross caster.Camber and toe are tire wearing angles,caster is not.

To the OP.....................

You have that washer installed wrong,it goes on the bottom side of the ball joint right under the castle nut.

BRUNEZ · **Posted:** Wed Jun 08, 2016 2:18 am

tjkj2002 wrote:

PALiftedKK wrote:

i was in marlins office 2 months ago and saw he had a shipment to Italy. coincidence.... i think not.

positive camber really inst a huge deal. its caster and toe that should be close to perfect.

make sure those upper ball joints are packed.

speaking of your KK, lets see that power house!!!! there's not one diesel KK on here. frequent

Camber and toe need to be in spec,caster can be out but needs to have no more then 0.5 degrees cross caster.Camber and toe are tire wearing angles,caster is not.

To the OP.....................

You have that washer installed wrong,it goes on the bottom side of the ball joint right under the castle nut.

Yes, now i look... the washer is in wrong position. Thank you.
Yesterday evening i went to shop but the printer was broke, they checked all again and now the camber is at 0.
The passenger side have 1-2 mm. again of bolt regulation, the driver side no, is maxed out, but now is in "limit" green of the machine graph.
This week-end change the position of the washer, but you think that with this shifting can change some alignment paramenters ?
Thank you

PALiftedKK · **Posted:** Wed Jun 08, 2016 8:34 am

My apologies brunez, i must have been drinking when i replyed, tjkj2002 is corect. Wait about a hundred miles unless the jeep doesnt drive stright for another alignment. With the JBA arms you should be able to get toe, caster, and camber pretty close to what they need to be. Remember to do frequent tire rotations as well. Better to be every oil change or every other oil change.

BRUNEZ · **Posted:** Wed Jun 08, 2016 9:38 am

PALiftedKK wrote:

My apologies brunez, i must have been drinking when i replyed, tjkj2002 is corect. Wait about a hundred miles unless the jeep doesnt drive stright for another alignment. With the JBA arms you should be able to get toe, caster, and camber pretty close to what they need to be. Remember to do frequent tire rotations as well. Better to be every oil change or every other oil change.

Don't worry PAL. :wink:

I follow all of yours suggestion.
First of all, i' ll change washer position and after wait some Kilometers\Miles for check again.
I' ll inform all of you about any news.

G.O.A.T. · **Joined:** Wed Jan 27, 2016 1:11 am **Posts:** 149

Troy,

Actually according to JBA, the washer goes between the boot and the knuckle to take up the space.

I have personally talked to Marlin about this many times. But I dont know anything, Troy knows it all about the KJ, 12000+ post vs 145 post, it is what it is.

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PALiftedKK · **Posted:** Wed Jun 08, 2016 8:17 pm

yea... its nasty grease. know what im doing this weekend.

don't be fooled by that spacer. im not going to bother defending my suspension modifications.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 08, 2016 10:19 pm

G.O.A.T. wrote:

Troy,

Actually according to JBA, the washer goes between the boot and the knuckle to take up the space.

I have personally talked to Marlin about this many times. But I dont know anything, Troy knows it all about the KJ, 12000+ post vs 145 post, it is what it is.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk, waiting on the ban hammer

In that pic it's a spacer,in the OP's pic it's a washer.

Depends on the ball joint used(and brand).Those washers go below or you can prevent the ball joint stud from fully seating in the knuckle.

G.O.A.T. · **Joined:** Wed Jan 27, 2016 1:11 am **Posts:** 149

tjkj2002 wrote:

G.O.A.T. wrote:

Troy,

Actually according to JBA, the washer goes between the boot and the knuckle to take up the space.

I have personally talked to Marlin about this many times. But I dont know anything, Troy knows it all about the KJ, 12000+ post vs 145 post, it is what it is.

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk, waiting on the ban hammer

In that pic it's a spacer,in the OP's pic it's a washer.

Depends on the ball joint used(and brand).Those washers go below or you can prevent the ball joint stud from fully seating in the knuckle.

Yes that spacer is his newest design becuase he changed ball joints. With the Raybestos its a smaller bushing. But still 7/8" ID and 1/4" thick. But he then switched to Moogs and it has a smaller height boot thats not attached, thus the taller bushing.

Besides Tom, I beileve I have installed more arms on members rides than anyone else (I have done over 20 sets of JBA since 2007)

According to JBA at the time it was to keep pressure on the boot. The actual shank dimensions are the same between the Moogs vs Raybestos but the boots are different

If you can prove that the thin was wasnt for the boot but belonged on the bottom I will leave this site and never come back, but until then, I am right, just like I was with the OX lockers on the KJs.

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G.O.A.T. · **Joined:** Wed Jan 27, 2016 1:11 am **Posts:** 149

Unless someone is a time traveler........pic is from 2013

Also take note of the Raybestos blue boot.

Proof. Im right Troy. Just admit it, but you wont just like the OX lockers

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At The Helm · **Posted:** Wed Jun 08, 2016 11:39 pm

The washer is sometimes needed and sometimes not.
If you can't fit the cotter pin through the castle nut at 125 ft lbs, then use the washer below the knuckle.

The thick spacer that goes above the knuckle is used to push the boot up and help keep the grease in I believe.

G.O.A.T. · **Joined:** Wed Jan 27, 2016 1:11 am **Posts:** 149

Last time I checked, no KJs or KKs that I have worked on came with a washer from the factory. You also have to remember that instruction sheet is for a Chevy, not a Jeep.

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G.O.A.T. · **Joined:** Wed Jan 27, 2016 1:11 am **Posts:** 149

Peace Im out. Yall can thank Troy. Hes an idiot and think he knows everything. Lostjeeps has become worst than Facebook.

It actually would make my day if I got the ban hammer again. But we know that doesn't work to well.

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BRUNEZ · **Posted:** Tue Jun 14, 2016 3:51 am

Hi all,
without start with any flame.
Marlin from JBA answer me by e-mail and for him this assembly is correct.

JBA A-ARMS Liberty KK and Camber Problem

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