I got a couple of stupid questions to ask. Just bought the OME lift, bump stops, 4 extra isos, top plates, clevis lift and bumpstops last week.
Question:
1. In the rear you already have 1 iso on the stock springs. So do I use that one and add 2 more to get 3.5 inches, for a total of 3 isos per side. Or do I toss the stock ones and only use 2 per side for the 3.5 inches?
2. Upfront I am doing the springs, top plate and 3/8 clevis lift. So if I want the jeep level, how many total isos would I use in the back per side?
3. I bought the 4 inch bump stops for the rear. Do I need to cut them down to the projected lift height?
Sorry in advance for the stupid questions.

Front will be the 927 springs, 3/8" clevis, 1/4" top plate, shocks, factory hardware (isolators, factory top shock mount etc), extended bumpstops, and JBA upper control arms.

The rear will be 731 springs, extended shocks, extended bumpstops (cut the 4" JBA down), factory upper and lower isolators, AND 2 new isolators per side (4 total) which will be added to the top. So each side should have 3 upper isolators and 1 lower isolator.

This will make your Jeep sit level. 21.5" all around, so 3.5" in front and 2.5" in back.

Bushtit, yes you'll technically wear them more than normal. That's going to happen to anything that works at a different angle than planned. Technically you're wearing your rear driveshaft's u-joints more than normal too. Will most people notice a shortened lifetime? As long as you don't push past about 4-4.25" of lift the front end will be fine (technically your tie-rod ends bind up and go bad at this height before your CVs do). Most people replaced CVs because of external damage (stick through the boot etc). Many are lifted over 100k miles and are still running factory or have only replaced one.

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2011 Deep Cherry Red KK - Skyslider - JBA/Bilstein Adjust-A-Strut set at 3.5" - OME 731 Rear Springs - Bilstein Rear Shocks - Al's A-arms - 245/75-16 Duratracs - Rock Liazard Super Sliders

Thanks for the quick response to my questions Bmxer524. Your jeep is one of the many I have saved and trying to look like. I bought all the stuff based on what your posts from different threads. Will the OME shocks that come with the OME 1.5 kit be long enough having the extra isos, or should I have ordered different shocks? Also what length do I need to cut the rear bump stops down too based on that setup?
If I could figure out how to post pictures I would show you what mine looks like now.

I'm honestly not too sure about the OME shocks anymore. They've changed since I first lifted. Tom would honestly know better than I. I wanna say cut the JBAs in half. It's usually just 1-2 hockey pucks that people stack, so that's about 2" or so tall.

Just a heads up, you'll have a little bit of contact between the upper control arms and the springs, more common at first until the lift settles in (even with JBA). It'll only happen at big bumps like a speed bumps, unless you slow down like you're supposed to, and smaller bumps and pot holes when you're accelerating (usually fairly heavy on the gas, I happen to be...). It's just what happens when you sit over about 3.25" with full size springs. The only way to get rid of it is to go with coilovers like JBA's or custom. It's honestly one of the reasons why I upgraded my front end. NY, specifically the city and Long Island, have garbage roads; which combined with my lead foot got to me. It doesn't really cause any damage, and you can mitigate it by clocking your springs (very time consuming and annoying) so the arms can travel a little more or a little rubber on the spring where it hits (some people have done this).

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2011 Deep Cherry Red KK - Skyslider - JBA/Bilstein Adjust-A-Strut set at 3.5" - OME 731 Rear Springs - Bilstein Rear Shocks - Al's A-arms - 245/75-16 Duratracs - Rock Liazard Super Sliders

If you got the OME full kit you need longer shocks. OME stopped making the extended shocks for the rear so you'll need to go to Bilsteins
As far as the bumpstops should of went with hockey pucks, but since you have them have to be right on as far as placement
Cut them down to 2 inches
Personally with stock upper control arms I would only install the top plate then after a bit and you get the JBAUCAs you could always do the clevis
Upper control arm/ spring contact makes a heck of a sound at times even with bumps in the highway

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

CRD makes a big difference. Just to be sure, you do have a KK (08-12) correct? Idk if they're like the KJs or are different. The KJ CRDs are limited to about 2.5" of lift if I'm correct. Idk if it's different for KKs (we do have a slightly different front axle).

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2011 Deep Cherry Red KK - Skyslider - JBA/Bilstein Adjust-A-Strut set at 3.5" - OME 731 Rear Springs - Bilstein Rear Shocks - Al's A-arms - 245/75-16 Duratracs - Rock Liazard Super Sliders

I did go ahead and get the JBA UCA's when I ordered everything else. I will call Marlin and see if I can return the shocks that came with the kit and get longer ones. I just ordered the bump stops to be able to get everything in in one spot.

I've done two now for customers ( KJ CRDs ) that went to 3. 25 with JBA arms and of course OME 790/948s

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

I would not go 4 inches , stick with 3-3.25 at most due to the diff being over to the left side more and shorter CV on that side.
Done two for customers and worked out well with JBA UCAs and OME 790 / 948 springs

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited