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 Post subject: Re: 4.7L Throttle Body question
PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2017 8:50 pm 
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Scar0 wrote:
Hard to say for sure. Check all the wire connections you took off for the swap.

I had a lightning bolt Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) light on once when the + battery cable was loose at the TIPM. That was a MY bad, oops.

Just remember if you mess with the battery cables to disconnect the Neg(-) first, then the Pos(+). Connect Pos(+) first, then Neg(-). VERY important!

It could be totally unrelated to the TB swap. Since you also had a Traction Control System (TCS)/ ESC (Electronic Stability Control) light on, I'd have a look at the wheel speed sensor wires at each wheel.


I've had the same problem, it is related to the TB and has to do with the engine calibration. My new job actually deals with all of this! My guess is there is a code set for high airflow/vacuum leak detected. There is software in the ECU that monitors the MAP sensor, throttle position, and torque output and uses them in a formula to calculate what range of values each should be in. Because the 4.7L flows more air, it can be far enough from the formula the ECU thinks you have a vac leak or stuck open throttle and goes into limp home for safety. The reason the ESP light comes on is because the ABS module can no longer request torque reduction from the ETC. I've only seen this come up at colder temps after pulling off of the throttle quickly. A restart usually fixes the problem.

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 Post subject: Re: 4.7L Throttle Body question
PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2017 9:15 pm 
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TIJKK1220 wrote:
I'll post some photos of my red neck solution to the air temp sensor this afternoon on my lunch! I like your setup though 4500 guy.

Where did you find that tube?

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


Thanks!..... I have an Ebay link for the tube further up in this thread.


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 Post subject: Re: 4.7L Throttle Body question
PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2017 9:27 pm 
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ajohns1288 wrote:
Scar0 wrote:
Hard to say for sure. Check all the wire connections you took off for the swap.

I had a lightning bolt Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) light on once when the + battery cable was loose at the TIPM. That was a MY bad, oops.

Just remember if you mess with the battery cables to disconnect the Neg(-) first, then the Pos(+). Connect Pos(+) first, then Neg(-). VERY important!

It could be totally unrelated to the TB swap. Since you also had a Traction Control System (TCS)/ ESC (Electronic Stability Control) light on, I'd have a look at the wheel speed sensor wires at each wheel.


I've had the same problem, it is related to the TB and has to do with the engine calibration. My new job actually deals with all of this! My guess is there is a code set for high airflow/vacuum leak detected. There is software in the ECU that monitors the MAP sensor, throttle position, and torque output and uses them in a formula to calculate what range of values each should be in. Because the 4.7L flows more air, it can be far enough from the formula the ECU thinks you have a vac leak or stuck open throttle and goes into limp home for safety. The reason the ESP light comes on is because the ABS module can no longer request torque reduction from the ETC. I've only seen this come up at colder temps after pulling off of the throttle quickly. A restart usually fixes the problem.


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 Post subject: Re: 4.7L Throttle Body question
PostPosted: Fri Mar 10, 2017 9:33 pm 
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Location: Greenville, RI
ajohns1288 wrote:
Scar0 wrote:
Hard to say for sure. Check all the wire connections you took off for the swap.

I had a lightning bolt Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) light on once when the + battery cable was loose at the TIPM. That was a MY bad, oops.

Just remember if you mess with the battery cables to disconnect the Neg(-) first, then the Pos(+). Connect Pos(+) first, then Neg(-). VERY important!

It could be totally unrelated to the TB swap. Since you also had a Traction Control System (TCS)/ ESC (Electronic Stability Control) light on, I'd have a look at the wheel speed sensor wires at each wheel.


I've had the same problem, it is related to the TB and has to do with the engine calibration. My new job actually deals with all of this! My guess is there is a code set for high airflow/vacuum leak detected. There is software in the ECU that monitors the MAP sensor, throttle position, and torque output and uses them in a formula to calculate what range of values each should be in. Because the 4.7L flows more air, it can be far enough from the formula the ECU thinks you have a vac leak or stuck open throttle and goes into limp home for safety. The reason the ESP light comes on is because the ABS module can no longer request torque reduction from the ETC. I've only seen this come up at colder temps after pulling off of the throttle quickly. A restart usually fixes the problem.


Ahhh.....interesting bit of info! Yes, a restart cured it and I took her for a drive today and she ran just fine.

When it happened, I had just cleared an hour of heavy stop & go traffic. When I got the Jeep up to around 70 mph I got the lights. Any ideas on preventing this from happening? Thanks!


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 Post subject: Re: 4.7L Throttle Body question
PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 5:09 am 
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I have never had this problem, even in/after heavy traffic, hot or cold weather, heavy accelerating, rapid decelerating, towing or not...
Right after I did the TB swap, I did have the hanging RPM mentioned in the other thread at first. But once the computers learned the new TB, MAP pressures, and fuel mix ratio, all was fine.
When you did the TB swap did you disconnect the Neg battery cable to set the computers into learn mode?
Did you make sure the "O" ring was still in place when you installed the new TB?
Double check the TB bolts are still tight.

Since you have only had the new TB for a week, it is possible the computers are still learning.

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2.5" Adjust-A-Strut JBA lift, Euro taillights,
Home made; Front Tilt Hood, Roof Rack, RAM Air, & CAI.
ESP Off Switch
Take a ride on the Trō side!

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 Post subject: Re: 4.7L Throttle Body question
PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 9:51 am 
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4500GUY wrote:
I have an Ebay link for the tube further up in this thread.


Hi mate, you did such a nice tidy job that I'm finally inspired to do the TB swap. I'll be ordering those parts from eBay and wondered if you have a link for the TB reducer and the air temp sensor grommet? Thanks kindly.

ImageImage


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 Post subject: Re: 4.7L Throttle Body question
PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 11:47 am 
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This is my 4.7 hot air sucker setup

I actually cut a spare stock intake tube right where the air temp sensor plugs in and attached and sealed it with rtv to my larger diameter tube.

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Image
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 Post subject: Re: 4.7L Throttle Body question
PostPosted: Sat Mar 11, 2017 11:55 am 
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4500GUY wrote:
TIJKK1220 wrote:
I'll post some photos of my red neck solution to the air temp sensor this afternoon on my lunch! I like your setup though 4500 guy.

Where did you find that tube?

Sent from my HTC One M9 using Tapatalk


Thanks!..... I have an Ebay link for the tube further up in this thread.

Sorry! Didn't see the links. I'm definitely going to update my setup for this.

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 Post subject: Re: 4.7L Throttle Body question
PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 1:02 am 
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KKnut wrote:
4500GUY wrote:
I have an Ebay link for the tube further up in this thread.


Hi mate, you did such a nice tidy job that I'm finally inspired to do the TB swap. I'll be ordering those parts from eBay and wondered if you have a link for the TB reducer and the air temp sensor grommet? Thanks kindly.

ImageImage


Hi KKnut,

Glad you like the setup! The silicone coupler (3.0" to 3.0") was purchased from AutoZone. It is a snug fit over the throttle body, so I used a bit of WD40 as a lubricant. The grommet was purchased locally as well (Ace Hardware). The grommet size was 1/2" ID and required a 3/4" hole in the tube. The tube wall thickness is approx. .08, so size the grommet accordingly. Good luck!


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 Post subject: Re: 4.7L Throttle Body question
PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 1:09 am 
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Joined: Sun Apr 17, 2016 10:14 pm
Posts: 22
Location: Greenville, RI
Scar0 wrote:
I have never had this problem, even in/after heavy traffic, hot or cold weather, heavy accelerating, rapid decelerating, towing or not...
Right after I did the TB swap, I did have the hanging RPM mentioned in the other thread at first. But once the computers learned the new TB, MAP pressures, and fuel mix ratio, all was fine.
When you did the TB swap did you disconnect the Neg battery cable to set the computers into learn mode?
Did you make sure the "O" ring was still in place when you installed the new TB?
Double check the TB bolts are still tight.

Since you have only had the new TB for a week, it is possible the computers are still learning.


Yes, I only had it that one time. I followed the procedure from your thread, disconnected the battery, neg first, then pos second. Had the battery disconnected for at least three hours to reset the ecm. I also got the hanging rpm's and all that went away after a short while.

Yes, I did not touch the factory "O" ring for the throttle body. I will check the bolts to be sure they haven't loosened.

Thanks for the help!


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 Post subject: 4.7L Throttle Body question
PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 11:19 am 
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Location: Blue Mountains NSW Australia
4500GUY wrote:
Hi KKnut,

Glad you like the setup! The silicone coupler (3.0" to 3.0") was purchased from AutoZone. It is a snug fit over the throttle body, so I used a bit of WD40 as a lubricant. The grommet was purchased locally as well (Ace Hardware). The grommet size was 1/2" ID and required a 3/4" hole in the tube. The tube wall thickness is approx. .08, so size the grommet accordingly. Good luck!


Thank you 4500GUY, I was struggling to guess which coupler you used so that clears it up. Now I just need to find the correct TB, cheers.


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 Post subject: Re: 4.7L Throttle Body question
PostPosted: Sun Mar 12, 2017 8:25 pm 
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Cool deal. Hope it was a 1 time deal.

_________________
07 KA Light Khaki, Manual trany.
2.5" Adjust-A-Strut JBA lift, Euro taillights,
Home made; Front Tilt Hood, Roof Rack, RAM Air, & CAI.
ESP Off Switch
Take a ride on the Trō side!

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 Post subject: Re: 4.7L Throttle Body question
PostPosted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 1:08 pm 
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OK Guys,

I would like some of your feedback in regards to the tranny shift points. I am finding that the tranny kicks down further on the highway if I really get on it. So, say I am cruising at 65 and hit the pedal down, she kicks down to what seems like 2nd gear and that really throws the RPM's to around 5K. I don't recall these shift patterns before the throttle body swap. Is the computer changing the shift patterns due to the new throttle body? Will the 3.7 tolerate that kind of RPM's on a regular basis? That's not to say I am pushing her that hard all the time, as I am not. Thoughts?


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 Post subject: Re: 4.7L Throttle Body question
PostPosted: Tue Mar 14, 2017 9:31 pm 
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4500GUY wrote:
OK Guys,

I would like some of your feedback in regards to the tranny shift points. I am finding that the tranny kicks down further on the highway if I really get on it. So, say I am cruising at 65 and hit the pedal down, she kicks down to what seems like 2nd gear and that really throws the RPM's to around 5K. I don't recall these shift patterns before the throttle body swap. Is the computer changing the shift patterns due to the new throttle body? Will the 3.7 tolerate that kind of RPM's on a regular basis? That's not to say I am pushing her that hard all the time, as I am not. Thoughts?

Mine does the same, but it did it before also. I chalked it up to the computer compensating for the tb.

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