Hard to say for sure. Check all the wire connections you took off for the swap.

I had a lightning bolt Electronic Throttle Control (ETC) light on once when the + battery cable was loose at the TIPM. That was a MY bad, oops.

Just remember if you mess with the battery cables to disconnect the Neg(-) first, then the Pos(+). Connect Pos(+) first, then Neg(-). VERY important!

It could be totally unrelated to the TB swap. Since you also had a Traction Control System (TCS)/ ESC (Electronic Stability Control) light on, I'd have a look at the wheel speed sensor wires at each wheel.

I'll post some photos of my red neck solution to the air temp sensor this afternoon on my lunch! I like your setup though 4500 guy.

Where did you find that tube?

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I've had the same problem, it is related to the TB and has to do with the engine calibration. My new job actually deals with all of this! My guess is there is a code set for high airflow/vacuum leak detected. There is software in the ECU that monitors the MAP sensor, throttle position, and torque output and uses them in a formula to calculate what range of values each should be in. Because the 4.7L flows more air, it can be far enough from the formula the ECU thinks you have a vac leak or stuck open throttle and goes into limp home for safety. The reason the ESP light comes on is because the ABS module can no longer request torque reduction from the ETC. I've only seen this come up at colder temps after pulling off of the throttle quickly. A restart usually fixes the problem.

I've had the same problem, it is related to the TB and has to do with the engine calibration. My new job actually deals with all of this! My guess is there is a code set for high airflow/vacuum leak detected. There is software in the ECU that monitors the MAP sensor, throttle position, and torque output and uses them in a formula to calculate what range of values each should be in. Because the 4.7L flows more air, it can be far enough from the formula the ECU thinks you have a vac leak or stuck open throttle and goes into limp home for safety. The reason the ESP light comes on is because the ABS module can no longer request torque reduction from the ETC. I've only seen this come up at colder temps after pulling off of the throttle quickly. A restart usually fixes the problem.

I have an Ebay link for the tube further up in this thread.

Thanks!..... I have an Ebay link for the tube further up in this thread.

Hi mate, you did such a nice tidy job that I'm finally inspired to do the TB swap. I'll be ordering those parts from eBay and wondered if you have a link for the TB reducer and the air temp sensor grommet? Thanks kindly.

I have never had this problem, even in/after heavy traffic, hot or cold weather, heavy accelerating, rapid decelerating, towing or not...
Right after I did the TB swap, I did have the hanging RPM mentioned in the other thread at first. But once the computers learned the new TB, MAP pressures, and fuel mix ratio, all was fine.
When you did the TB swap did you disconnect the Neg battery cable to set the computers into learn mode?
Did you make sure the "O" ring was still in place when you installed the new TB?
Double check the TB bolts are still tight.

Since you have only had the new TB for a week, it is possible the computers are still learning.

Hi KKnut,

Glad you like the setup! The silicone coupler (3.0" to 3.0") was purchased from AutoZone. It is a snug fit over the throttle body, so I used a bit of WD40 as a lubricant. The grommet was purchased locally as well (Ace Hardware). The grommet size was 1/2" ID and required a 3/4" hole in the tube. The tube wall thickness is approx. .08, so size the grommet accordingly. Good luck!

OK Guys,

I would like some of your feedback in regards to the tranny shift points. I am finding that the tranny kicks down further on the highway if I really get on it. So, say I am cruising at 65 and hit the pedal down, she kicks down to what seems like 2nd gear and that really throws the RPM's to around 5K. I don't recall these shift patterns before the throttle body swap. Is the computer changing the shift patterns due to the new throttle body? Will the 3.7 tolerate that kind of RPM's on a regular basis? That's not to say I am pushing her that hard all the time, as I am not. Thoughts?