Hey everyone it's been a long while since I have posted. I need some guidance here. So this is the deal. I started out with this OME install about a month ago. I installed the front spring and shocks with no real issues aside from popping noises, I think I need to turn the spring so it sits flush on the rubber stopper. 2 weeks later I installed the rear... While removing the upper driver side sway bar link I snapped the bold off with half still in. So after hours of different extractors to no avail I had to drill out the whole thing. This caused the loss of the nut welded to the inner frame. I decided to drill a whole all the way through the frame and install a much longer bolt..........its not over yet. After looking everywhere open at the time the closest bolt I could find was 3/8 (a little small). I bolted the thing up; it wasnt pretty and it wasnt super straight but it was tight. With this known here are my symptoms.

At low speeds(below 25ish) I have a semi constant up and down bounce. This is not a swooping swaying bounce as in shocks. its like a slight boing boing boing but bouncy you know. I feel like a beer keg being shook up. I had the alignment and its as good as it can get i think it was 1 deg off on each side.

Does anyone thing removing the rear sway bar all together might help? I can shake the jeep side to side in the rear and when i stop it stops.....weird.

Any and all suggestions appreciated

As a test, try removing the rear sway bar and see if your symptoms persist.
Popping in the front is 90% of the time caused by torquing before the weight of the rig is on the springs. Usually the front sway bar link bolt you loosened for the install is the cause. Loosen the bolt with the weight on the springs, bounce the bumper up/down 3-4 times, then torque it.
But also look at the spring for contact with the upper "A" arm.
If you had the alignment before things settled in, you may need to do it again.
Also if you had it aligned before the rear was done, you will most likely need to do it again.

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07 KA Light Khaki, Manual trany.
2.5" Adjust-A-Strut JBA lift, Euro taillights,
Home made; Front Tilt Hood, Roof Rack, RAM Air, & CAI.
ESP Off Switch
Take a ride on the Trō side!

I did the alignment after the rear was done. I will get it done again when I hit the 1k mark. I am also planning on re-torquing everything this week. I also read somewhere that the spring not sitting against the stopper on the bottom boot could cause the popping and clunking. Anyone know of a trick to allow the turning of the spring with it installed? I believe the rear bounce I am feeling is just due to it being VERY stiff in the rear. I feel every wave in the freeway with 2 very small bounces after I hit one of the wave which makes it seem constant when driving slow so its kinda like "small bump, bounce bounce, small bump, bounce bounce......." the bumps are like the spacers on aa sidewalk to prevent the cracking.

I really dont want to have to remove the springs to turn them

In order to turn the front springs/rests you will have to compress the springs.
Because the OME springs are heavy duty, I would recommend you completely remove the assembly and take them to a shop to have them done.

Did you replace the rear shocks with longer ones?
If not you will need to do so. Stock rear shocks will not last long before they pop a seal.

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07 KA Light Khaki, Manual trany.
2.5" Adjust-A-Strut JBA lift, Euro taillights,
Home made; Front Tilt Hood, Roof Rack, RAM Air, & CAI.
ESP Off Switch
Take a ride on the Trō side!

I use the ome 60069 shocks that were recommended on the JBA site. I got the 2730 springs......Do you think these shocks could be the source of the bouncing?

Those are stock length shocks.
The OME 132Ls were the correct ones, but only a few sets are out there anymore since ARB/OME stopped production of them.
Bilstein are just as good IMO

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited

Did you install the rear shocks upside down by chance?

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2010 KK 4WD BRILLIANT BLACK
Fox/King/Bilstein ATH BUMPERS ATH RACK GY DURATRACS

ATHFAB.com

Pretty sure they are the right way

and now my drivers airbag light keeps going on and off. passenger side does it once in a while but no where near as much as the drivers....maybe the passenger only lit up once

I am now convinced it is not the stiffness and the road. I think the stiffness it amplifying something else. When stopped in traffic and i let off the break and begin to roll forward it almost feels like there is a larger flat spot or a protrusion causing the bounce. Problem is my tires are new so I know its not that but it feels like it. Or maybe one of the rear tires is sitting like this |---\

Now that you mention it...
In the Pics above the tread is almost completely worn off the inside of the left rear tire.
An all wheel alignment should have caught this problem.

_________________
07 KA Light Khaki, Manual trany.
2.5" Adjust-A-Strut JBA lift, Euro taillights,
Home made; Front Tilt Hood, Roof Rack, RAM Air, & CAI.
ESP Off Switch
Take a ride on the Trō side!

Sorry should have said those pictures were from when i was installing it. After those pictures I had the alignment done and new tires put on. a while back it was so out of alignment it was puilling the jeep straight, had the alignment done then but didnt want to pony up for new tires so i drove with those screwed up tires.

PS
the alignment that was just done after i installed the rear was -1.5deg off on the left and right rear Camber

-1.5° camber off on both right and left rear?
Sounds like you have a bent rear axle housing...

_________________
07 KA Light Khaki, Manual trany.
2.5" Adjust-A-Strut JBA lift, Euro taillights,
Home made; Front Tilt Hood, Roof Rack, RAM Air, & CAI.
ESP Off Switch
Take a ride on the Trō side!

Yes both left and right were off. Is there a way to check if its bent? Also is this something I could replace/fix my self? Marlin is going to send me a set of the extended shock as soon as they clear customs! So maybe that will fix it.....

There is no easy way to check it yourself.
With both off by -1.5° your wheels are sitting like this.
/--o--\
If one was + and the other - then it would be like this /--o--/ part of which could be caused by the lift as the track bar pulls everything to the left when lifted. And your rear toe would be off a little as well.
My rear camber is; left +0.15 right -0.6
My rear toe is left -0.03, right +0.28

I highly doubt if new shocks will change anything, but you may get lucky.

_________________
07 KA Light Khaki, Manual trany.
2.5" Adjust-A-Strut JBA lift, Euro taillights,
Home made; Front Tilt Hood, Roof Rack, RAM Air, & CAI.
ESP Off Switch
Take a ride on the Trō side!

Well I'm an idiot....Its not my Camber that is off its the front Caster 1.9 on the left and 1.7 on the right......Any new thoughts? I have no clue about alignment aside what I have found by researching

Front caster Preferred is 3.3° ± 0.5°
Range is 2.8° to 3.8°
MAX RT/LT Difference 0.5°

Did you replace the A-arms?

_________________
07 KA Light Khaki, Manual trany.
2.5" Adjust-A-Strut JBA lift, Euro taillights,
Home made; Front Tilt Hood, Roof Rack, RAM Air, & CAI.
ESP Off Switch
Take a ride on the Trō side!

No didn't do the arms... I'm sure als arms would fix that caster. But don't think caster up front would cause a bounce in the rear that would be felt while driving. Could be totally wrong though.

On a plus I torqued the front with the wheels on the ground all noise is gone. Also checked and the springs set themselves against the stop. no need to compress and turn that rubber boot.

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