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 Post subject: Re: Tools for the Job
PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2017 4:23 pm 
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Seems like the best option for maximum clearance without sacrificing structural integrity would be cut it flush and weld over it. I'm sure I could learn how to do it with the right equipment. I talked to offroad warehouse about it, they told me they cut the pinchwelds on unibodys all the time and have never had a problem. At least I'm not the only hack job they've done. Are there any options as far as after market fender flares?

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 Post subject: Re: Tools for the Job
PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2017 5:13 pm 
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ElCuervo52 wrote:
Seems like the best option for maximum clearance without sacrificing structural integrity would be cut it flush and weld over it. I'm sure I could learn how to do it with the right equipment. I talked to offroad warehouse about it, they told me they cut the pinchwelds on unibodys all the time and have never had a problem. At least I'm not the only hack job they've done. Are there any options as far as after market fender flares?


NO NO NO do not cut flush and try to weld it over
And they are stupid if they say they cut all the time without issues
There are no aftermarket flares for KJs or KKs available

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited


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 Post subject: Re: Tools for the Job
PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2017 5:16 pm 
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GordnadoCRD wrote:
If you're talking about the plastic inner fender shield, I found it cheaper to buy new ones and hang on to the old for patch material if needed, but the ones for KJs are only like $16 each.


I have done " a lot " of Liberty lifts ( bet way more than where you took yours to! )
I don't cut the inner liner all the way off , only a partial "V" and then when pounded over heat up and smooth back down over

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MUDD'S MOTORSPORT'S We do IFS lift installs ,
03 OVERLAND EDITION /Kilby-Skidrow-Mopar-4XGuard skids/ 2.5 inch TOTAL CONTROL JBA coilovers -JBA Arms/MOABS-31 FALKEN WILDPEAK AT3W / 4.10's etc, 04 Kilimanjaro Edition loaded, plus 05 KJ limited


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 Post subject: Re: Tools for the Job
PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2017 5:48 pm 
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ElCuervo52 wrote:
Seems like the best option for maximum clearance without sacrificing structural integrity would be cut it flush and weld over it. I'm sure I could learn how to do it with the right equipment. I talked to offroad warehouse about it, they told me they cut the pinchwelds on unibodys all the time and have never had a problem. At least I'm not the only hack job they've done. Are there any options as far as after market fender flares?

Cutting the front pinch welds on a KJ/KK actually totals the vehicle as those 2 points are 2 of the 4 major structural points(strongest points also) of a KJ/KK for the unibody.


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 Post subject: Re: Tools for the Job
PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2017 6:29 pm 
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Not sure what the guy you are working with does to his tools, but I have a ton of Milwaukee cordless tools and have never had that problem.

I have used my regular Milwaukee 18 volt drill on the hammer drill setting to drill holes in concrete for anchor bolts all day long and it never even phased it.

I accidentally left my 12 volt impact on a roof for a month. It rained all that month. When went back I found it right where I left it. Dried off with a rag and works just fine.

I know a ton of trades guys that use Milwaukee tools with no issues. I know guys in a heavy duty mechanic shop that beat on that Fuel 18 volt 1/2" impact wrench and it is still going strong.

tjkj2002 wrote:

Oh and unless your only doing very light duty tasks those Milwaukee cordless tools are total junk.One of the guys I work with bought one of there high end 1/2" cordless impacts and has toasted 2 tools and 5 batteries in 6 months




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 Post subject: Re: Tools for the Job
PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2017 6:41 pm 
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WolverineFW wrote:
Not sure what the guy you are working with does to his tools, but I have a ton of Milwaukee cordless tools and have never had that problem.

I have used my regular Milwaukee 18 volt drill on the hammer drill setting to drill holes in concrete for anchor bolts all day long and it never even phased it.

I accidentally left my 12 volt impact on a roof for a month. It rained all that month. When went back I found it right where I left it. Dried off with a rag and works just fine.

I know a ton of trades guys that use Milwaukee tools with no issues. I know guys in a heavy duty mechanic shop that beat on that Fuel 18 volt 1/2" impact wrench and it is still going strong.

tjkj2002 wrote:

Oh and unless your only doing very light duty tasks those Milwaukee cordless tools are total junk.One of the guys I work with bought one of there high end 1/2" cordless impacts and has toasted 2 tools and 5 batteries in 6 months




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Trade jobs and automotive shops are a bit different.

He does nothing different then I do but he does more tires then I do.On a new freshly charged battery(5 amp hour battery) he can barely take off 50 lugnuts torqued at 150lbs-ft before the battery is dead,that is 2 F150's worth.My Snapon with only a 4 amp hour battery can do well over 150 lugnuts torqued to 150lbs-ft before the battery is dead.I can also use my snapon cordless to actually press in/out balljoints,his Milwaukee can't even begin to budge them and his cordless is "rated" higher in torque then my snapon cordless.

Oh and his is the brushless version.


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 Post subject: Re: Tools for the Job
PostPosted: Sun Jun 04, 2017 10:18 pm 
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Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
Greetings Tom

tommudd wrote:
GordnadoCRD wrote:
If you're talking about the plastic inner fender shield, I found it cheaper to buy new ones and hang on to the old for patch material if needed, but the ones for KJs are only like $16 each.


I have done " a lot " of Liberty lifts ( bet way more than where you took yours to! )
I don't cut the inner liner all the way off , only a partial "V" and then when pounded over heat up and smooth back down over

I replaced the inner fenders on my 2006 due to pre-existing damage from one of the prior owners, not resulting from any lift, as far as I know. My comment was simply the price I paid for them.

I'm aware you've done a lot of lifts.
AND, that you've done a lot of suspension work besides lifts.

That's why, with every suspension question I've had, to date, about my Liberty, I've always PM'd you, before having to proceed anyway, due to no response, / interest, / whatever.

You've done precisely infinitely more lifts than "where I took mine to".
Mine isn't lifted.
Nor am I looking to have it lifted.

It doesn't have 32-44" tires (nice pics on the web by the way).
Nor do I want it to.

I simply want mine to drive nice, and to ride nice, wherever I choose to drive it.

Most likely, 60% on pavement,[edit - not nice pavement though, LOL. Very rural.] 30% mud (field work), the rest split between gravel, dirt, and sand.

I've never claimed to have your experience or knowledge of Libertys, (I'm happy with my own in other areas), but if I have to find my own way without the benefit of your said knowledge and experience, I'm ready, willing, and ultimately able, to do that as well.
Although, having it, I'm sure, WOULD lower the expense, due at very least, to less experimentation.

Regards,

Gordon

[Edit again] Sorry for the southward turn here. Never meant for your thread to be hijacked.

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