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 Post subject: Re: 4th times the charm
PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 9:18 am 
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A few months back in one of your other threads I posted:

Back in my drag race days we used something called "bump steer spacers" to keep the tie rods aligned when the front end lifted at launch. Seems the same idea is used today on lowered trucks, but upside down from what we did. Would need different tie rod ends, but perhaps this may help the tie rod alignment issue.

I don't know how to post pics here, but search the phrase above and you can see the images. Since the knuckle is aluminum it would be easy to drill out the taper and bolt in something like this.

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 Post subject: Re: 4th times the charm
PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 12:12 pm 
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ElCuervo52 wrote:
What do you guys think about a new vs reman rack


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New will be almost impossible to find for a KK but if you can that is the better route.

New racks can really only be found in a vehicles warranty period and after that remaned units is all you mostly find,even from the dealers.


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 Post subject: Re: 4th times the charm
PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 2:31 pm 
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I don't know what you'd think about this, but used rack and pinions can be found on http://car-part.com for $50-$250 depending on the junkyard. If you can find some low mileage racks from KK's or KA's that were totaled for a reason other than a front end collision, you could save yourself a chunk of change. You could keep even more money if you learned how to install them yourself, but I know that is a PITA. It doesn't necessarily have to cost thousands of dollars every time.

Not saying this is a permanent or ideal solution. Nobody wants to have to replace the steering rack every couple of months. Just saying it could be done without destroying your bank account (as much).

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 Post subject: Re: 4th times the charm
PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 6:38 pm 
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442stu wrote:
A few months back in one of your other threads I posted:

Back in my drag race days we used something called "bump steer spacers" to keep the tie rods aligned when the front end lifted at launch. Seems the same idea is used today on lowered trucks, but upside down from what we did. Would need different tie rod ends, but perhaps this may help the tie rod alignment issue.

I don't know how to post pics here, but search the phrase above and you can see the images. Since the knuckle is aluminum it would be easy to drill out the taper and bolt in something like this.
This is what I'm saying. Also why couldn't you weld it and bolt it? Aluminum welding is possible right?

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 Post subject: Re: 4th times the charm
PostPosted: Thu Sep 28, 2017 9:51 pm 
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Myke wrote:
This is what I'm saying. Also why couldn't you weld it and bolt it? Aluminum welding is possible right?

Look up the issues with Rock Krawler 7UP lift for the KJ,that will state why "bolting" is a bad idea on knuckles


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 Post subject: Re: 4th times the charm
PostPosted: Fri Sep 29, 2017 8:33 am 
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^^^^
yes very bad idea, crap lift

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 Post subject: Re: 4th times the charm
PostPosted: Sat Sep 30, 2017 9:30 am 
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No need to weld anything. Bump steer spacers bolt to the knuckle just like the tie rod. Totally safe and proven.

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 Post subject: Re: 4th times the charm
PostPosted: Sat Sep 30, 2017 9:16 pm 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
Myke wrote:
This is what I'm saying. Also why couldn't you weld it and bolt it? Aluminum welding is possible right?

Look up the issues with Rock Krawler 7UP lift for the KJ,that will state why "bolting" is a bad idea on knuckles
It would be very easy to make an extra set to test the lateral strength of the setup.

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 Post subject: Re: 4th times the charm
PostPosted: Sat Sep 30, 2017 9:52 pm 
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Myke wrote:
tjkj2002 wrote:
Myke wrote:
This is what I'm saying. Also why couldn't you weld it and bolt it? Aluminum welding is possible right?

Look up the issues with Rock Krawler 7UP lift for the KJ,that will state why "bolting" is a bad idea on knuckles
It would be very easy to make an extra set to test the lateral strength of the setup.

The cast steel KJ knuckles broke,do you really think the KK's cast aluminum will stand up any better?


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 Post subject: Re: 4th times the charm
PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 9:28 am 
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tjkj2002 wrote:
The cast steel KJ knuckles broke,do you really think the KK's cast aluminum will stand up any better?


Where did they break? At the tre mount?

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 Post subject: Re: 4th times the charm
PostPosted: Sun Oct 01, 2017 6:21 pm 
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Myke wrote:
tjkj2002 wrote:
The cast steel KJ knuckles broke,do you really think the KK's cast aluminum will stand up any better?


Where did they break? At the tre mount?


Search button is your friend,
lots of good reading on how to build a very bad lift,
costing people 1000's of dollars
entertaining but sad when you knew the people that fell for it

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 Post subject: Re: 4th times the charm
PostPosted: Mon Oct 16, 2017 7:18 pm 
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ElCuervo52 wrote:
We’ve discussed tie rod ends/knuckles. Nothin available for the kk and no one is willing to design something custom. At this point I need to consider dropping the lift and swapping to smaller tires. It just doesn’t seem to be working at 4”. The only reason I haven’t done this already is because I spent ALOT of extra money to run it at 4”. If I knew I was gonna have to drop the lift and stick with 31s I wouldn’t have had to regear, would have bought JBA 2” lift, and would t have had to buy tires and saved myself about 4K


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I put a OME from Jeepin by Al on my 09 a few years ago. Replaced the "A" arms too. Been running 31's on my 1.5inch lift. I don't do rock climbing. Just wanted it up since adding sliders, skids and the from steel bumper from ATH. Didn't regear. Didn't do anything else to it. 109k and not had any issues with suspension. Am I lucky or playing with borrowed time. I didn't want to touch anything in the gearing section so I don't kill my lifetime warranty? Dealership did the lift (I just supplied the parts). Was told as long as I don't open it up, my warranty is good (meaning don't tear into the gearing). Sure, my MPG really sucks. 21 gallon tank, I get about 210 miles out if it city driving, not going over 50. I did replace the rims too. Running 265/70 16's BFT TKO's (latest version). Rims are 8.5 wide. You guys are starting to spook me as I may have pushed my KK past the line and will be looking at a expensive repair or heart break down the road. But up to now, it's seems pretty tight. Much tigher then the 02 KJ I have that has 150k and still all stock.

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