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 Post subject: Re: Timing belt and Turbo change-out
PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 3:32 am 
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CaptainDean wrote:
WWDiesel wrote:
No need to unplug the FCV at this point, but I would recommend removing the flapper valve (butterfly) out of the FCV.

Two kinds of good beer, Cold and / or Free, or both! :5SHOTS: :ROTFL:

Thanks WWDiesel,

Removed the butterfly valve and replaced the upper radiator hose.

Have another issue. There is a squeal coming from the Serpentine belt area that sounds like a slipping fan belt. Only happens under acceleration. Make sure that no oil or grease or other gunk got onto the belt or pulleys. I use the do-it-yourself car washes with the high pressure soap cycle (no wax) for 30-60 seconds to clean everything off. Slipping stops seconds after you pull the sprayer away, and has never come back. Double check your belt routing. If that is all correct, check the tensioner. On mine with a new belt and new tensioner, I had to hold the tensioner all the way to the stop, and the belt would barely roll on to the alternator pulley.

I'm a little puzzled with the concept of a decoupler on the alternator. Why does an alternator have a decoupler? Why would the Serpentine belt tensioner sales ad have a warning about it?

I'm also wondering about the harmonic balancer possibly slipping.
Don't like looking the wise old gift horse in the mouth, but anyone have some great words of wisdom about this?

These questions are all concerning means of addressing the same engineering ..er.. property(?)
The 4 cyl diesel engine such as we have, has an extraordinary amount of torsion caused acceleration / deceleration due to the combustion-power cycles happening at 180 degree intervals. The harmonic balancer is important as a means to smooth these out, but doesn't completely eliminate the issue.
When the serpentine belt system driving the accessories has a high ratio pulley with heavy mass such as the alternator doesn't have an overrunning clutch, the pulsing of the power cycles causes a huge tension-relaxation cycle that is borne entirely by the spring type belt tensioner. So without the decoupler (overrunning clutch), this cycle literally hammers the serpentine belt tensioner to pieces, damages the belt, and risks damage to everything a failed serpentine belt can touch. Up to and including tearing the timing cover from around the crankshaft, balling up inside with the timing belt and causing catastrophic engine failure.


Glad I modified the fan shroud so it will come off easily. That's a good call.

Dean.

Glad to help anytime I can. I think we all are.

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 Post subject: Re: Timing belt and Turbo change-out
PostPosted: Thu Nov 02, 2017 11:57 pm 
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GordnadoCRD wrote:
The 4 cyl diesel engine such as we have, has an extraordinary amount of torsion caused acceleration / deceleration due to the combustion-power cycles happening at 180 degree intervals. The harmonic balancer is important as a means to smooth these out, but doesn't completely eliminate the issue.
When the serpentine belt system driving the accessories has a high ratio pulley with heavy mass such as the alternator doesn't have an overrunning clutch, the pulsing of the power cycles causes a huge tension-relaxation cycle that is borne entirely by the spring type belt tensioner. So without the decoupler (overrunning clutch), this cycle literally hammers the serpentine belt tensioner to pieces, damages the belt, and risks damage to everything a failed serpentine belt can contact. Up to and including tearing the timing cover from around the crankshaft, balling up inside with the timing belt and causing catastrophic engine failure.

Thanks GordnadoCRD,

That is exactly the logic I needed to learn to decide which Serpentine belt part to change first. The Harmonic Balancer wins this competition. The noises I hear (sounds like bolts in a hubcap) are coming from the area of the harmonic balancer. I'm ordering one tonight.

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Timing belt and Turbo change-out
PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 1:45 am 
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Made two separate orders to IDParts.com. (Harmonic balancer, exhaust manifold EGR port cap) Afterward I asked if they would combine the two orders into a single box and shipment.

They wrote back saying they had combined the two orders, and managed to fit them into a cheaper shipping method. They refunded the balance to my CC. :D

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Timing belt and Turbo change-out
PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 3:02 am 
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Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
They are definitely a cut above.

I ordered some items from them last month, when I knew I could get them from other companies for a little less, because I knew there would not be any hassles. And yes, from loyalty.

It's because of IDParts, Sasquatch Parts, GDE, JBA, and others, in the interest of those of us who love to hate

(or hate to love?) our little Jeeps, but just can't stand the idea of giving them up, that makes owning them viable.

Plus all the folks in the forum that have developed superior products to solve problems that never should have existed, as well as those who have experimented to find what works, what doesn't, and what alternate equivalent parts can be acquired for much less, helps too.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


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 Post subject: Re: Timing belt and Turbo change-out
PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 10:01 am 
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GordnadoCRD wrote:
They are definitely a cut above.
I ordered some items from them last month, when I knew I could get them from other companies for a little less, because I knew there would not be any hassles. And yes, from loyalty.
It's because of IDParts, Sasquatch Parts, GDE, JBA, and others, in the interest of those of us who love to hate
(or hate to love?) our little Jeeps, but just can't stand the idea of giving them up, that makes owning them viable.
Plus all the folks in the forum that have developed superior products to solve problems that never should have existed, as well as those who have experimented to find what works, what doesn't, and what alternate equivalent parts can be acquired for much less, helps too.

Can you just imagine where all Liberty CRD owners would be if it were not for all the shared knowledge, experience, vendor/services, and help available on the LOST forum! :juggle:

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 Post subject: Re: Timing belt and Turbo change-out
PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 1:59 pm 
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WWDiesel wrote:
GordnadoCRD wrote:
They are definitely a cut above... ...It's because of IDParts, Sasquatch Parts, GDE, JBA, and others, in the interest of those of us who love to hate (or hate to love?) our little Jeeps, but just can't stand the idea of giving them up, that makes owning them viable. Plus all the folks in the forum that have developed superior products to solve problems that never should have existed, as well as those who have experimented to find what works, what doesn't, and what alternate equivalent parts can be acquired for much less, helps too.

Can you just imagine where all Liberty CRD owners would be if it were not for all the shared knowledge, experience, vendor/services, and help available on the LOST forum! :juggle:

Thanks for the acknowledgement of IDParts, and naming other sources. I had not come across GDE, JBA yet.

Also, I truly believe in the power of Forums. After owning a Dodge diesel and Volvo Penta diesel, and belonging to forums for each, I have nothing but respect for the shared knowledge. Thank you everyone.

[Edit] Of course, GDE is Green Diesel Engineering. I have heard of them and will probably get an ECM update after I get the kinks our of this this Liberty CRD.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Timing belt and Turbo change-out
PostPosted: Sat Nov 04, 2017 4:29 pm 
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Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
JBA= Jeepin By Al http://jeepinbyal.com/liberty-2002-2007-kj.html
Superior suspension components including those of their own design.

The list was not all inclusive. There are many more you will become acquainted with as you search, read, and seek answers.

(http://www.boulderbars.com/kjproducts.htm) Etc, Etc.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


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 Post subject: Re: Timing belt and Turbo change-out
PostPosted: Mon Nov 06, 2017 11:50 pm 
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GordnadoCRD wrote:
The 4 cyl diesel engine such as we have, has an extraordinary amount of torsion caused acceleration / deceleration due to the combustion-power cycles happening at 180 degree intervals. The harmonic balancer is important as a means to smooth these out, but doesn't completely eliminate the issue.
When the serpentine belt system driving the accessories has a high ratio pulley with heavy mass such as the alternator doesn't have an overrunning clutch, the pulsing of the power cycles causes a huge tension-relaxation cycle that is borne entirely by the spring type belt tensioner. So without the decoupler (overrunning clutch), this cycle literally hammers the serpentine belt tensioner to pieces, damages the belt, and risks damage to everything a failed serpentine belt can touch. Up to and including tearing the timing cover from around the crankshaft, balling up inside with the timing belt and causing catastrophic engine failure.

New 'harmonic balancer' and 'cap for the ERG port on the exhaust manifold' arrived today from IDParts. I can put them on after work sometime this week. I'm driving the old Chevy S-10 pickup tomorrow.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Timing belt and Turbo change-out
PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 11:21 am 
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Before I get busy removing the EGR pipe that goes around the back of the engine, what is the best path and method of extracting that pipe?

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Timing belt and Turbo change-out
PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 11:58 am 
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Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
On the Exhaust side it's a smaller version of the v-band clamp that holds the exhaust to the turbo. I can't remember off hand but I think you will use it to clamp the port plug in place. Red exhaust silicone is your friend here. On the Weeks side (intake side) I took off everything EGR related in one go, and that came with. If you don't have the EGR valve removed it probably wouldn't hurt anything to let it ride back there. Perhaps wrap a rag around it to avoid any banging clanging noises.

At one point it seemed perhaps possible to put the exhaust side (Weeks 2) plug in the manifold, and put the pipe back over the plug and the v-band clamp back on around all of it. I never did get around to trying it though. Kind of pointless as it was all going to come off anyway.

I think there is a p tab retainer holding that pipe in place, and a woven heat protector sleeve around all of it. I can't remember if the bolt for the tab retainer went into the head or the block. Then again maybe I'm remembering wrong.

Once it's all undone though, you can just lift it up and out once cleared of the back of the head. If you CAN'T, Jack up the rear of the transmission with caution until it will come out. Basically it means your transmission mount has settled and is allowing the trans tail to sit too low, and probably is making more noise inside, than it should.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


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 Post subject: Re: Timing belt and Turbo change-out
PostPosted: Tue Nov 07, 2017 11:43 pm 
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Thanks GordnadoCRD,

Your explanation, as always, is right on target and full of expert information, and well written.

I'm looking forward to this weekend to remove this EGR pipe, and replace the harmonic balancer. Both parts are clanking around causing the jeep to sound like the Clampet's truck. The picture shows a P clamp with the bolt-side up, so it probably screws into the head.

Image

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Timing belt and Turbo change-out
PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 2:39 am 
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Ahh I see the clamp holding mine must have been replaced at some point. I really remember it being shaped like a P or a d depending on which way was up. That one shown looks more like something FCA's bean counter "engineers" would specify.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


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 Post subject: Re: Timing belt and Turbo change-out
PostPosted: Wed Nov 08, 2017 2:03 pm 
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A bit more friendly advice! IF you are not totally removing the FCV & EGR valve junk at this time, but only removing the EGR exhaust feed tube and capping it at the exhaust manifold end per your description, I would strongly recommend you leave a blank either on the EGR valve or better yet on the FCV. This will prevent any possible boost leakage. The EGR valve is known for not fully sealing off!
You certainly do not want to lose boost through either one! :roll:

:SOMBRERO:

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05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount

98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve


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 Post subject: Re: Timing belt and Turbo change-out
PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 1:03 am 
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Thanks for the concern WWDiesel,

No matter how hard if try to express myself accurately, I always find that the written word can be comprehended differently than I intend. Here's another "go" at it... :)

I was planning to keep the brass disk in place on the FCV that is blocking off the EGR path. (Location of item 4 on item 1) I plan to cut the flared end off of the pipe so I can only use the brass disc held on by the severed end of the EGR pipe. Throw the rest of the EGR pipe (item 5) away.

Also will be installing the $35 ( !!! ) stainless steel block-off cap at the rear end of the exhaust manifold. (Item 4 on item 10) Then throw the EGR source pipe (item 9) away too.

The EGR heat exchanger will remain in place on the side of the block until I bypass the coolant hoses.

Image

I have mused myself with the though of cleaning the heat exchanger well enough to use it in the beer making process. Meanwhile, back on planet Earth, I'm certain it will never clean up enough. I'd have to name all my future beers various renditions of EGR Soot Stout, and EGR Soot Pilsner, bla bla bla puke. :mrgreen:

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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 Post subject: Re: Timing belt and Turbo change-out
PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 2:35 am 
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Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
If you are a function over aesthetics guy, save the heat shield sleeves from those pipes. Use them around the turbo oil supply line, to block radiant heat between the exhaust manifold / turbine housing, and the oil supply line.

Help save turbo bearing damage from thermal breakdown of the oil.
Yes, it's good oil, but that's no reason to make it have to live with 400F+ temperatures.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


Top
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 Post subject: Re: Timing belt and Turbo change-out
PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 3:33 am 
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Thanks GordnadoCRD,

That sounds like excellent functional advise. I will do that. Fortunately the oil supply line is easy to disconnect atop the turbo. Next time I'm in that area I'll slip'r on.

The oil in the engine is black black black, even though the last owner said he recently changed it. Now with the EGR gasses and soot no longer coming into the intake, I plan to change the oil again. With the amount of blow by this engine has, it will probably turn black again right away anyway.

At least I'll have my peace of mind knowing it will have actually been changed, and not just the word of the last owner.

Are there any recommendations on oil? Additives? Filter? (I was headed for Delo 400 and a NAPA filter)

Dean.

_________________
2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


Top
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 Post subject: Re: Timing belt and Turbo change-out
PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 11:48 am 
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Location: Oregon Coast Dairy Country. Land of stumps, dumps, and "Liquid Pumps"
Oh boy... :dizzy:

That is one of the most opined subjects you can get into with a crowd like this. :lol:

Ok I'll just say, I use Mobile 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w/40.
It's reasonably priced.
It's easily available.
It's on sale usually a couple of times per year.
It easily exceeds the requirements of the 2.8L CRD
However, there are others that also do the same, and of course, "availability and price may vary".

All my previous turbo diesels I used Delo 400 15w/40, and it never let me down. That said, factory specs for this little gem calls for pure synthetic cj-4 or better, and I don't find the price difference (over time) enough to justify using Delo over Mobile, Shell, or any others that meet ALL the specs the factory calls for. There have been independent tests in which Delo's synblend 15w/40 outperformed a few name brand full synthetic 15w/40 diesel offerings, so it's by no means a bad oil.
There are some brands that I stay away from, more due to personal grudge than anything else.
So, Find one that works for you, and stick with it as long as it makes sense.

The filter I have for the between-change duration is Mahle. (Got a couple extra from IDParts last winter)

I had a similar situation with a full new top end going on a well used short block at the end of last year. Full service, new filters and fluids all around, and the first oil change just came up last month. Because it had blacked up so fast, I decided to do a flush change, and bought a case of super cheap cheap ($15/case) oil filters from Rockauto. Drained oil, changed filter to one of the cheap cheap ones, and put 4 quarts of 0w/20 (I think) and 2 quarts of Marvel Mystery Oil. (basically cheap solvent that won't eat seals). I ran it at a fast idle (1100rpm) for about a half hour, no load. until it was up to temp, then drained that out, and changed the filter to the Mahle, and refilled with Mobile1 TDT. (this was a 3000 mi change) I intend to do that the next interval or 2 and see if it helps keep it cleaner over time. (Also sending samples to Blackstone Labs)
I'm not putting this out as a recommendation. In fact I have no clue at this point, if it will help, hurt, or be just a complete waste of money. I strongly suspect the last, but I do want to know.

_________________
'06 Lbrty Sprt CRD 150K

Sasquatch
DSS Turbo
CAT-elimntr
Weeks Stg1&2 EGRfix
PV-200
BLING
vent gauges

IDParts
head
cams
rockers
Timing set
ARP studs
eTn1 GX2123 5v GPs

YETI Custom Tune
Flowmaster 8325508
Carter P76611M
GM 12611872
Hayden 2986
GM 15976889
PATC Custom Billet
2010 Ram Hemi Trans
Sonnax 44957
Transgo kit
Cooper 51770


Top
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 Post subject: Re: Timing belt and Turbo change-out
PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 12:07 pm 
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CaptainDean wrote:
Thanks for the concern WWDiesel,
No matter how hard if try to express myself accurately, I always find that the written word can be comprehended differently than I intend. Here's another "go" at it... :)
I was planning to keep the brass disk in place on the FCV that is blocking off the EGR path. (Location of item 4 on item 1) I plan to cut the flared end off of the pipe so I can only use the brass disc held on by the severed end of the EGR pipe. Throw the rest of the EGR pipe (item 5) away.
Also will be installing the $35 ( !!! ) stainless steel block-off cap at the rear end of the exhaust manifold. (Item 4 on item 10) Then throw the EGR source pipe (item 9) away too.
The EGR heat exchanger will remain in place on the side of the block until I bypass the coolant hoses.
I have mused myself with the though of cleaning the heat exchanger well enough to use it in the beer making process. Meanwhile, back on planet Earth, I'm certain it will never clean up enough. I'd have to name all my future beers various renditions of EGR Soot Stout, and EGR Soot Pilsner, bla bla bla puke. :mrgreen:
Dean.

Dean, sounds like you have a very "GOOD" plan!
Just be sure and remove the butterfly flapper valve out of the FCV to render in non-functional! > viewtopic.php?p=914265#p914265 <
As to the the EGR cooler, you can go ahead and remove all the coolant hoses, cap or plug the fitting in the head and remove the "Y" fitting and replace it with a 5/8" straight hose coupling. There is no need to keep the cooler in service with no exhaust gases passing through it! :wink:
Now using that cooler to make beer, that's a whole nother can of worms!!!! :ROTFL:

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05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount

98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve


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 Post subject: Re: Timing belt and Turbo change-out
PostPosted: Thu Nov 09, 2017 2:08 pm 
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CaptainDean wrote:
Are there any recommendations on oil? Additives? Filter? (I was headed for Delo 400 and a NAPA filter)
Dean.

As Gordon stated, Mobile 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w/40 is a solid choice!
Royal Purple Duralec Super motor oil 15W-40 is a very good oil if you live in a climate like you do in Hawaii where you don't experience much cold weather!

DELO 400 LE Synthetic SAE 5W-40 , and Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic Diesel 5W-40 are also all solid choices depending on what is available in your area.

Just be sure any oil you choose is CH-4 or higher API rated: API CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4

As to oil filters, Purolator One PL30001 or PBL30001 are excellent choices or *NAPA Gold or Platinum are also good choices (FIL 1515 or PFL 41515), or the Mobil M1-301.
All these filters listed are slightly larger than the OEM size filter, but will fit and function perfectly and allow a full 7 quarts of oil capacity. :wink:
*Note: NAPA filters are made by WIX!

As to oi additives, some on LOST including myself use Marvel Mystery Oil , I use it in all my vehicles engine oil. Also add it to the diesel fuel for additional lubricity protection.
To me, engine actually sounds a little quieter or smoother with the MMO in it!

:SOMBRERO:

_________________
Supporting Vendor and Moderator of LOST
05 Jeep Liberty CRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Ironman Springs/Bilstein/Shocks
Yeti StgIV Hot Tune
Week's BatteryTray
No FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast/Transgo
Carter Intank-pmp
2mic.Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NO CAT
V6Airbox/noVH
GM11 Bld.fan/HDClutch
IronrockArms/wwdieselMount

98 Dodge Cummins 24 Valve


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 Post subject: Re: Timing belt and Turbo change-out
PostPosted: Fri Nov 10, 2017 12:29 am 
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WWDiesel wrote:
As Gordon stated,
  • Mobile 1 Turbo Diesel Truck 5w/40 is a solid choice!
  • Royal Purple Duralec Super motor oil 15W-40 is a very good oil if you live in a climate like you do in Hawaii where you don't have cold weather!
  • DELO 400 LE Synthetic SAE 5W-40 , and Shell Rotella T6 Synthetic Diesel 5W-40 are also all solid choices.
  • Just be sure any oil you choose is CH-4 or higher API rated: API CJ-4, CI-4 PLUS, CI-4, CH-4
  • As to oil filters, Purolator One PL30001 or PBL30001 are excellent choices
  • NAPA Gold or Platinum* are also good choices (FIL 1515 or PFL 41515), or the Mobil M1-301.
All these filters listed are slightly larger than the OEM size filter, but will fit and function perfectly and allow a full 7 quarts of oil capacity. :wink:
*Note: NAPA filters are made by WIX!
As to oi additives, some on LOST including myself use Marvel Mystery Oil , I use it in all my vehicles engine oil. Also add it to the diesel fuel for additional lubricity protection.
To me, engine actually sounds a little quieter or smoother with the MMO in it!
:SOMBRERO:

Thank you WWDiesel for pointing these out! I found a .PDF about API ratings. It categorizes the various ratings according to engine types. This seems to give newbies like me a feel for it's purpose and importance.
http://www.api.org/~/media/files/certification/engine-oil-diesel/publications/mom_guide_english_2013.pdf

Kona town has grown here on the west side of the Big Island. We have always had NAPA and CarQuest, but now have O'Reiley and AutoZone. I've seen most of those oils on the shelves.

I have wanted a reason to buy Marvel Mystery Oil, but it's difficult to find here. I'll look harder. My Liberty has not had the good treatment it should have gotten. I think MMO will clean up and loosen the insides nicely.

Dean.

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2005 Jeep Liberty 2.8L CRD 248
Kona, Hawaii (Big Island) USA

Changed Turbo.
100,000-mile service.
Replaced harmonic balancer.
Noise in front axle or 3rd member - removed loose chain in transfer case.
Rebuilt engine - replaced #3 cylinder, piston, valves, head repair. Removed EGR.
Sheared bolts on TC. Replaced flex plate, TC, bolts.


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