Timing belt and Turbo change-out

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Tue Oct 24, 2017 11:44 am

CaptainDean wrote:

Who is a good source for a power steering pump? Looking for a new one, or a reliably re-manufactured pump. I see that Crown is a source to avoid.
Dean.

IMPORTANT NOTE!
Gas powered Liberty's use a totally different power steering pump than the diesel powered ones...
Part Number: 52088710AE

Autozone list them with lifeime warranty: Part Number: 63135 > http://www.autozone.com/suspension-stee ... 37536_3508
THE BEST PRICE!

ID parts list them:> https://www.idparts.com/power-steering- ... -4282.html
Rockauto list them.
Carid list them.
Several online retailers including eBay list them, just Google PN 52088712AC :google:

Factory Chrysler Parts list them (Mopar OEM):> Part Number: 52088712AC
https://www.factorychryslerparts.com/pr ... 712AC.html

:SOMBRERO:

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 693

WWDiesel wrote:

...Autozone list them with lifeime warranty: Part Number: 63135 > http://www.autozone.com/suspension-stee ... 37536_3508
THE BEST PRICE!... :SOMBRERO:

Ding-ding-ding! AutoZone is the winner. Good price, lifetime warranty, 2-day arrival, no additional shipping. Drove down and ordered it. Was glad to see an old friend who now works there. Life in a small town is always rewarding.

Dean.

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 693

I plan to test the hoses and intercooler with the output of a shop vac, while holding each part in a tank. How much pressure does a turbo produce? (6 lbs?)

Is there a discussion about cleaning and testing the boost hoses and aftercooler?

Dean.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Oct 25, 2017 12:48 am

More like 15-20ish psi depending on turbo and how much foot you got in it's tooter.

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 693

GordnadoCRD,

I have a light foot, the tooter will probably not feel it much. Problem is I live in a hilly area. This Jeep puts out a lot of black smoke and bogs down up hills. Surges too. Get a Check Engine light with under boost code P0299.

Now with a new turbo (didn't need it), new timing belt kit, new water pump, new power steering pump; none of those will fix this problem. Upon disassembly, I did not find either hose split, nor obvious damage to the intercooler. I will clean and test these probably Thursday.

Looking down through the intake, the throttle looks clean but there is soot visible in the area deeper into it. Haven't taken that apart yet.

Dean.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Oct 25, 2017 5:01 am

Not wishing trouble on you, but I hope you find the P0299 problem with your hoses. It's relatively simple, while not exactly cheap, things could be worse.

The "throttle" you see is not one such as you would be familiar with on a Gasoline engine. The worst position for it to be, is closed.

It is a "flow control valve" who's primary function is to proportion how much fresh air /per/ how much black exhaust soot that it sucks through the pipe coming around the back of the engine from the rear of the exhaust manifold, into the intake manifold. That soot, when combined with the oil vapors coming from the crankcase via the turbo, coalesce into something very much like tarmac, which is what you're seeing there.

With that buildup, it not only prevents correct function of the FCV valve, it also prevents correct function of the EGR valve as well.
It very commonly physically prevents tunes from fully closing the EGR, it also in the same action prevents turbo from building boost pressure.
So when driven at light throttle, it runs terribly because of the unregulated soot coming from the exhaust, then when the engine attempts to use fuel to increase boost, it sends the boost around and into the exhaust manifold, causing underboost, overfueling, no power, and black smoke.
If you have doubts, you lose nothing by making a block-off plate with a piece of sheet metal and WWDiesel's template. It forms a positive bi-directional block, that can be easily installed, removed, or left in place as you deem fit.

While there are other things that can cause P0299, That one is extremely common.

Another thing to check, is that there is vacuum at the turbo control solenoids, (just behind the air filter) that the small clear plastic air filter is not plugged, none of the vacuum lines are leaking, and all are connected at the proper place. Also that the vacuum reservoir tank there has no leaks. It should retain vacuum for some minutes after shutting the engine down.

I am unfamiliar with the make of turbo you installed, but it's possible they left it to the installer, to do final adjustment of the Vane Control Rod. You might call them and see.

There was another here, who's P0299 problem was solved via a GDE tune. I don't know right offhand, which one.

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 693

Thanks GordnadoCRD,

First of all, I have to ask: what are "tunes"? (I'm guessing it's the character of the on-board computer with either stock or changed programming.)

I have suspected the EGR system, especially after watching some the YouTube videos about EGR Delete.

Apparently the 'shortcut' to a better running engine with EGR problems is to install the blocking plate. I've done that on gassers to stop vacuum leaks. Your description sounds like a good match up, especially the light-footed driver. This vehicle does run fine when I step on it, although it smokes.

However, I will finish my current project by proving the turbo, tubes and aftercooler are in good shape before digging into the beast again.

Although it looks daunting, removing the EGR valve, cooler and exhaust tube may not be as big of job after all. I like the idea of clearing out some more unwanted hoses hanging off the side of the engine.

Dean.

tjkj2002 · **Posted:** Wed Oct 25, 2017 7:04 am

CaptainDean wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

...Autozone list them with lifeime warranty: Part Number: 63135 > http://www.autozone.com/suspension-stee ... 37536_3508
THE BEST PRICE!... :SOMBRERO:

Ding-ding-ding! AutoZone is the winner. Good price, lifetime warranty, 2-day arrival, no additional shipping. Drove down and ordered it. Was glad to see an old friend who now works there. Life in a small town is always rewarding.

Dean.

They have a lifetime warranty for a reason,you will be using it often.

You buy air fresheners at autozone,not hard engine parts.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Oct 25, 2017 7:52 am

tjkj2002 wrote:

They have a lifetime warranty for a reason,you will be using it often.

You buy air fresheners at autozone,not hard engine parts.

I've got a friend here that just went through that with Autozone remanufactured alternators. He had 5 straight defective ones, and I don't mean the worked a little while then quit, ALL of them were bad straight from the box.
When he took the 4th one back, they flat out accused him of doing something to make them go bad. He told them to pull the 5th one from the box and test it right there, but they had no tester at that store. They sent it to another store that tested it that afternoon. It was bad.. New in the box Reman.
He took a refund and shops at Napa now.
This can't be a local store problem, all of these came from their Reman supplier. I don't know who they are, but someone there had a really crappy day, and leveraged it into a crappy week for him.

Dean, I really hope your experience with them is not like that. I guess just drive it and worry about that bridge if it goes out.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Oct 25, 2017 12:13 pm

CaptainDean wrote:

Thanks GordnadoCRD,
First of all, I have to ask: what are "tunes"? (I'm guessing it's the character of the on-board computer with either stock or changed programming.)
I have suspected the EGR system, especially after watching some the YouTube videos about EGR Delete.
Apparently the 'shortcut' to a better running engine with EGR problems is to install the blocking plate. I've done that on gassers to stop vacuum leaks. Your description sounds like a good match up, especially the light-footed driver. This vehicle does run fine when I step on it, although it smokes.
However, I will finish my current project by proving the turbo, tubes and aftercooler are in good shape before digging into the beast again.
Although it looks daunting, removing the EGR valve, cooler and exhaust tube may not be as big of job after all. I like the idea of clearing out some more unwanted hoses hanging off the side of the engine.
Dean.

Best way to get rid of all the EGR crap is to install a Weeks Elbow Kit available from Sasquatchparts.com
The kit allows the removal of the EGR valve, EGR feed tube, FCV, EGR cooler and all associated coolant hoses. :BANANA:

Many members including myself have this kit installed! It is a very good product! :wink:

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Oct 25, 2017 12:26 pm

GordnadoCRD wrote:

tjkj2002 wrote:

They have a lifetime warranty for a reason,you will be using it often.
You buy air fresheners at autozone,not hard engine parts.

I've got a friend here that just went through that with Autozone remanufactured alternators. He had 5 straight defective ones, and I don't mean the worked a little while then quit, ALL of them were bad straight from the box.
When he took the 4th one back, they flat out accused him of doing something to make them go bad. He told them to pull the 5th one from the box and test it right there, but they had no tester at that store. They sent it to another store that tested it that afternoon. It was bad.. New in the box Reman.
He took a refund and shops at Napa now.
This can't be a local store problem, all of these came from their Reman supplier. I don't know who they are, but someone there had a really crappy day, and leveraged it into a crappy week for him.
Dean, I really hope your experience with them is not like that. I guess just drive it and worry about that bridge if it goes out.

As to Autozone parts, I have not had any problems with parts I have bought from them so far, and I have bought a lot of them!
Running their alternators on my Jeep and my Dodge 360 gasser. Been on Jeep for over 2 years now!
Running their Duralast CPS, it was a Bosch OEM sensor in the box and they had the absolute best price of anyone for it!
Both rear window regulators for the Jeep came from Autozone and have been in service since 2013 with no issues.
Many Moog parts purchased from them!

Some may have had bad luck with them, but so far my experience with them has been good.
I buy mostly from Autozone or NAPA, and O'reilly's occasionally depending on price and availability.
Advance is the only store that I rarely purchase anything from other than lube or filter products. Some of their hard parts have had some issues. :roll:

But to each his own, it's a free market, buy from whomever you like! Anyone can get a bad part every now and then especially if they do a lot of mechanical repair.... :2cents:

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 693

GordnadoCRD wrote:

...Not wishing trouble on you, but I hope you find the P0299 problem with your hoses...

Well, lookie here what I found. I'm not sure what I found but it's definitely an open connection in the EGR merry go round. I will reconnect this bugger and see how the old girl runs.

Can anyone tell me what this connection is? This is certainly the source of all the soot around the front of the engine.

Dean.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Oct 25, 2017 11:40 pm

CaptainDean wrote:

GordnadoCRD wrote:

Not wishing trouble on you, but I hope you find the P0299 problem with your hoses.

Well, lookie here what I found. I'm not sure what I found but it's definitely an open connection in the EGR merry go round system. I will reconnect this bugger and see how the old girl runs.

Can anyone tell me what this connection is?
Dean.

IT is the EGR feed to the FCV!
With it disconnected as shown in your picture, you are loosing LOTS of boost!!!! :shock:

A Weeks Elbow Kit will eliminate all of this! :wink:

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Oct 25, 2017 11:50 pm

I buy from Autozone as well, with mixed results, as would be expected, and in general I'm a pretty loyal customer. It takes a lot to make me jump ship.

I completely agree that anyone can have a bad day, but had their reman supplier tested their units before they boxed and shipped them, his mess would have been caught.
The fact that they never tested anything on the shelf when the units were being brought back day after day, and I'm highly dubious that these are the only bad ones that left their facility, DOES make at least this store look pretty bad beyond just the reman shop.

Then to insult the customer and blame the situation on them without checking into the problem first, well, that's just inexcusable.

Leaving it up to the end user to test the products they sell is probably the reason that most professional shops I know of, do business elsewhere.

So one problem that should have been found and dealt with internally with simple bench testing, turned into a situation that makes an entire organization look bad to an indeterminable amount of people who now go elsewhere (queue social media...)

Hobbyists and home mechanics tend to be more patient with this stuff than people who depend on every detail being correct and good and dependable out of the box in order to make money.

A professional that has to do the job twice (or more) because of getting bad stuff out of the box and/or dealing with boomerang jobs because of early failures, MUST shop elsewhere, because they just can't afford to deal with that kind of problem repeatedly.

It makes their customers unhappy, and gives them a bad reputation.

If they continue to do business with a supplier like that, it's a reputation they deserve.

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Wed Oct 25, 2017 11:58 pm

CaptainDean wrote:

Well, lookie here what I found. I'm not sure what I found but it's definitely an open connection in the EGR merry go round. I will reconnect this bugger and see how the old girl runs.

Can anyone tell me what this connection is? This is certainly the source of all the soot around the front of the engine.

Dean.

Take a few small pieces of aluminum foil and place them between the pipe and FCV body there, and put the clamp back on...
Keep that soot out!!!!
Imagine taking a pipe that directly ports your "exhaust" back into a diving helmet that you wear, just so it doesn't offend the birds and bees........ It's no better for that engine than it would be for you, besides, it deprives the local flora of their normal food cycle.

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 693

COOL !!

[Edited] Thank you GordnadoCRD. (I just re-read your last post)

GordnadoCRD · **Posted:** Thu Oct 26, 2017 12:07 am

They will probably pop off or leak badly. The FCV from the boost pressure, and the pipe from exhaust pressure.

That's why you still want to have them clamped together, to hold the block in place with force of the v-band clamp, and keep the area of reactive force down to just the small area of the inside of the pipe.

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 693

Gotcha! I have some 0.010" shim sheet to cut into a disk and clamp the two pipes together.

Thanks GordnadoCRD!

Dean.

CaptainDean · **Joined:** Thu Oct 05, 2017 2:22 am **Posts:** 693

Also, THANKS WWDiesel !!

Dean.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Oct 26, 2017 12:29 pm

GordnadoCRD wrote:

I buy from Autozone as well, with mixed results, as would be expected, and in general I'm a pretty loyal customer. It takes a lot to make me jump ship.
I completely agree that anyone can have a bad day, but had their reman supplier tested their units before they boxed and shipped them, his mess would have been caught.
The fact that they never tested anything on the shelf when the units were being brought back day after day, and I'm highly dubious that these are the only bad ones that left their facility, DOES make at least this store look pretty bad beyond just the reman shop.
Then to insult the customer and blame the situation on them without checking into the problem first, well, that's just inexcusable.
Leaving it up to the end user to test the products they sell is probably the reason that most professional shops I know of, do business elsewhere.
So one problem that should have been found and dealt with internally with simple bench testing, turned into a situation that makes an entire organization look bad to an indeterminable amount of people who now go elsewhere (queue social media...)
Hobbyists and home mechanics tend to be more patient with this stuff than people who depend on every detail being correct and good and dependable out of the box in order to make money.
A professional that has to do the job twice (or more) because of getting bad stuff out of the box and/or dealing with boomerang jobs because of early failures, MUST shop elsewhere, because they just can't afford to deal with that kind of problem repeatedly.
It makes their customers unhappy, and gives them a bad reputation.
If they continue to do business with a supplier like that, it's a reputation they deserve.

Probably some sorry employee putting some returned or bad units back on the shelf without bothering to test them? And I believe he stated they had no bench tester! :shock:

No excuse for such actions!!!
When I worked at a local old fashion parts store years back owned by a very dear friend of mine, we tested every reman alternator before it went out the door on our bench tester to be sure we were giving the customer a "good" unit! :wink:

If any parts store you frequent, no matter the name, has a bench tester, you could ask them to test, reman or new, before walking out the door with a purchased unit....

Timing belt and Turbo change-out

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