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 Post subject: KK 2012 Front passenger half-shaft removal
PostPosted: Wed Jun 06, 2018 10:04 pm 
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Joined: Sun Nov 16, 2014 11:12 am
Posts: 46
Hello,

Have a leaking CV boot. I can't find any instructions to remove the half-shaft. There are no bolts on the CV joints. Does the axle just pull out after the brake rotor and hub are removed?


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 Post subject: Re: KK 2012 Front passenger half-shaft removal
PostPosted: Thu Jun 07, 2018 4:01 pm 
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Joined: Wed May 30, 2018 3:20 pm
Posts: 14
waysidecharlie wrote:
Hello,

Have a leaking CV boot. I can't find any instructions to remove the half-shaft. There are no bolts on the CV joints. Does the axle just pull out after the brake rotor and hub are removed?

waysidecharlie,

Here is the instructions for removal:

1. Lift the affected area of the car and support securely with a jack AND jack stands

2. If you do not have air powered tools, be sure to loosen but not remove all 5 lug nuts as well as the center nut that attaches to the axle.

3. Once in the air, remove the wheel, and the axle nut

4. Remove the sway bar end link

5. Detach the lower ball joint and tie rod end from the steering knuckle
-These may be seized in their holes, simply hit whatever they 'go through', i.e. the steering knuckle with a small sledge until they pop free, Do NOT strike the actual parts

6. With the upper ball joint still attached, swing the knuckle out and up slightly and push the tip of the axle through the knuckle, if you must tap it through, be sure to put the axle nut back on FLUSH with the end of the spindle

7. Then with a large screwdriver or preferably pry bar, pry the inside end of the CV axle outward from the differential, if this is on the right (passenger) side, an axleshaft will remain inside the axle housing tube

8. Installation is reverse of removal, be sure to use a new axle nut on the spindle and torque it and the lug nuts down properly. Torque specs for the axle nut are listed as 100 ft-lbs, and 80-110 ft-lbs for the lug nuts.

You should not have to remove the brakes or hub for this, if you already have it may grant you more room however. If you are replacing the axle, just reverse the removal, if you intend to repair them it gets a bit more complicated! Good luck! -Also, before using those torque numbers is this a front or rear axle? Thanks-


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 Post subject: Re: KK 2012 Front passenger half-shaft removal
PostPosted: Sun Jun 10, 2018 9:54 am 
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Joined: Sun Nov 16, 2014 11:12 am
Posts: 46
mbrando1994 wrote:
waysidecharlie wrote:
Hello,

Have a leaking CV boot. I can't find any instructions to remove the half-shaft. There are no bolts on the CV joints. Does the axle just pull out after the brake rotor and hub are removed?

waysidecharlie,

Here is the instructions for removal:

1. Lift the affected area of the car and support securely with a jack AND jack stands

2. If you do not have air powered tools, be sure to loosen but not remove all 5 lug nuts as well as the center nut that attaches to the axle.

3. Once in the air, remove the wheel, and the axle nut

4. Remove the sway bar end link

5. Detach the lower ball joint and tie rod end from the steering knuckle
-These may be seized in their holes, simply hit whatever they 'go through', i.e. the steering knuckle with a small sledge until they pop free, Do NOT strike the actual parts

6. With the upper ball joint still attached, swing the knuckle out and up slightly and push the tip of the axle through the knuckle, if you must tap it through, be sure to put the axle nut back on FLUSH with the end of the spindle

7. Then with a large screwdriver or preferably pry bar, pry the inside end of the CV axle outward from the differential, if this is on the right (passenger) side, an axleshaft will remain inside the axle housing tube

8. Installation is reverse of removal, be sure to use a new axle nut on the spindle and torque it and the lug nuts down properly. Torque specs for the axle nut are listed as 100 ft-lbs, and 80-110 ft-lbs for the lug nuts.

You should not have to remove the brakes or hub for this, if you already have it may grant you more room however. If you are replacing the axle, just reverse the removal, if you intend to repair them it gets a bit more complicated! Good luck! -Also, before using those torque numbers is this a front or rear axle? Thanks-



Thank you for the information. It didn't work quite the way it should because of corrosion from the salt brine they put on roads. Hitting the lower ball joint off and on over two days did not free it. I eventually, used a chain around the steering knuckle and under a bottle jack to push the ball joint out. But its apart. I'll use anti-seize on things when it goes back together. I'll probably replace the boot with the shaft in place, and put it all back together.

The ABS sensor also broke off trying to remove it. It was not working anyway. Never had a ABS light on the dash, but the right front wheel was locking up so I assume the sensor was junk. Waiting for a new one to arrive before putting it all back together.

Here in the northeast junk yards are selling used steering knuckles for $60, so there must be a lot of people with the same corrosion problem. its pretty big hunk of cast aluminum.


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