One of my customers came into the shop today to pick up his bike and I got to talking about how my Kilby gas tank skid, and my Hidden Hitch has developed surface rust. See the photo below. He is a certified dragster chassis builder and he recommended POR15. He claims it is stronger than any bedliner product made, and when applied properly, looks better than powder coating. When dried, this paint is suppose to be an armor protection. His directions were for me to steel brush away the surface rust, then wipe it down, and apply this paint to the skid with a paint brush. He also commented that whatever this paint comes in contact with or applied to, it will never come off. That it cannot be sanded, it must be grinded. I guess some people have tried this on body work and found this out the hard way.

So I was just wondering if anyone here has ever used this stuff?

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Illegitima Non carborundom!

Great stuff, I just painted my sliders with POR15. I recommend you use Metal Ready as well to prep the surface.

I used disposable brushes - wasn't worth trying to clean them
wear gloves, if it dry's its permanent. Clean off any spills or spatter immediatley
use plastic wrap between the cap and the can if you ever want to open the can again
Make sure the surface is absolutely dry before you start applying POR15.
POR15 will fade, so you need to top coat. I used Rustoleum gloss black.

Haven't really tested the new finish yet. They look really good though.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

As for the plastic wrap in the can, have you done this? Just wondering since my friend told me that doesn't work if you let the can sit a month or two. Regardless, I am going to buy a quart tomorrow ( I found a place in Elburn, IL ) that sells it. The girl quoted me $14.00 / QT. I'm going to do both my hidden hitch, and my tank skid. I'll post before & after pic's when I get around to completing that task.

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Illegitima Non carborundom!

It worked for me for consecutive days, but I haven't tried to open the can in about 2 weeks. I'll try tomorrow.

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2005 CRD "Ol' Blue"
Red Ryder carbine-action, two hundred shot range model air rifle with a compass in the stock and this thing which tells time.
My build page- RL Komodo Rear and TJM Front Bumper, armored, lifted, JBA Steel D30, 4.10s and ARB air lockers.

Oops. That should have read, $41.00 / QT.

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Illegitima Non carborundom!

Before...


After...


I wouldn't think I need topcoat... Unless I roll it.

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Illegitima Non carborundom!

2 thumbs up buddy. Looks great. Huge improvement.

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My Jeep Build ----> Big Black

I believe POR15 needs topcoated if it sees any sun as it will fade. It is a good product, but due to the isocianates in it, it can be dangerous, especially if thinned and sprayed. I preferred using Zero Rust, less hazardous, holds up just as well as POR, and you can get a gallon from JC Whitneys for around $60.
Looks good, keep updated on how it holds up.

how well does por15 hold up for use as undercoating overtime in comparason to some of the other products?
we used to use it on the salt trucks and it seemed to work ok

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03 Renegade (Black)
177k miles 3.7L gas - 45RFE
Command Trac / 4.10s
Lift: ft. 790+ rr. JBA4+
The last of the TrailReady Front&Rear Bumpers and TR Rock Rails
Jarhead Offroad light covers
31x10.5R15 RedLetter Grabbers on Blackrock Dunes
L.O.S.T #KD098632