The Belafonte, ....Building a better CRD Version Pics P4

Team J.a.G · **Posted:** Wed May 26, 2010 7:21 pm

A few weeks ago, Nobster & I had a 5mm alloy checker plate installed from the from lip of the engine skid to the rear edge of the ARB bar. This was to stop collection of mud, grass hoppers & birds, getting up & under the to fill the engine skid.
It also gives a nice finish to the gap exposed by the ARB bar.

Glend · **Posted:** Wed May 26, 2010 7:29 pm

Photos Greg? Did you make it yourself?

Team J.a.G · **Posted:** Wed May 26, 2010 7:44 pm

Sorry glen I knew I should have posted a photo but I haven't taken any yet, but I will get to it later today.

No, of course, I didn't make it myself :-)r

, but had a steel fabricator who does a bit of fabrication for me for my other side-line (work :roll:

)

Team J.a.G · **Posted:** Wed May 26, 2010 9:59 pm

Here it is

Glend · **Posted:** Thu May 27, 2010 12:02 am

Greg, looks nice - makes a nice cheese grater!

BTW where did you get the snorkel filter, I need one of those for my desert trip?

Team J.a.G · **Posted:** Thu May 27, 2010 3:31 am

Glend wrote:

Greg, looks nice - makes a nice cheese grater!

BTW where did you get the snorkel filter, I need one of those for my desert trip?

http://www.4wdsystems.com.au/index.php?id=43 -

Unifilter Beanie $22ea = postage
PH orders 0883690033

Hap:) · **Posted:** Thu May 27, 2010 6:15 am

Yeah

that skid extension looks good!
Do all those driving lights "4" on the bull bar cause any cooling problems?

Team J.a.G · **Posted:** Thu May 27, 2010 7:02 pm

Hap:) wrote:

Yeah

that skid extension looks good!
Do all those driving lights "4" on the bull bar cause any cooling problems?

I,ve driven about 5-6,000k (4k towing the camper) since I've had them re-positioned with the ARB bar and had no problems with the cooling system what so ever.

G'ME MUD · **Joined:** Tue Jul 17, 2007 7:55 pm **Posts:** 370

That plate looks like it should do the job nicely. The front of the engine skid acts like a scoop.

Team J.a.G · **Posted:** Thu May 27, 2010 7:50 pm

G'ME MUD wrote:

That plate looks like it should do the job nicely. The front of the engine skid acts like a scoop.

Yeah, that's right Ross.... on our last trip around Longreach, Winton, Lark Quarry etc. I collected mud, grass hoppers and birds in the engine skid, which promted me to do this front plate. Since then I've been down to Yuragir NP (Brooms Head, Minnie Waters Area) and it proved itself well

nobster · **Joined:** Wed Mar 12, 2008 2:52 am **Posts:** 126

Nice looking plate there Greg :wink:

Team J.a.G · **Posted:** Sat May 29, 2010 2:33 am

nobster wrote:

Nice looking plate there Greg :wink:

.............................And I bet you've seen one just like it :wink:

cmohr · **Posted:** Thu Jun 03, 2010 2:25 am

I first wanted to do something about the engine case breather, I have not yet got a Provent, but , after doing a bit of reading, for the time being am happy to do an Elephant hose mod. I simply blocked the hose at the breather that goes to the airbox, replaced it with a long hose that goes over and loops under the powerbrakes booster, and sticks up near the side of the engine bay, at the end I put a good little breather filter. On idle I can see a small amount of oily haze coming out, so happy that is no longer going into the intake and building up in the turbo hoses and intercooler.

I also had a look at the Boost Control sensor on B2, I removed it and a big sticky lump came out of the hole. I could not see any sensor at all, it was shaped the same size as the hole, then when I touched it about 5mm chunk just fell off the end. I started blasting it with MAF cleaner, and it was amazing half the size of the chunk fell away under pressure, I kept cleaning and eventually I could see what I believe to be the temp sensor sticking down, I cleaned all away from it, then noticed that it seemed like there was an indent at its base. This turned out again to be crap, I cleaned out a further 3mm buildup filling the body of the sensor, and then at the bottom of that, a small hole, I cleaned that in went in about 3mm or so, I could then see what I believe is the pressure sensor.

Gobsmacked......it had about 15-20mm of sooty/oily stuff caked on it, there was no way it could be reading anything. I then took it for a drive, I could feel a bit more instant throttle response. I'd hate to think just what the inside of that intake manifold looks like considering what was stuck to that sensor, and for that matter what has gone back thru the engine because of the EGR soot and the engine oil mist

I then turned to the EGR. I had just blocked the small pipe leading from the actuator diaphram to the EGR valve, I simply put a small screw in the top of the actuator that would stop pressure and block suction to the EGR, but after re-reading SAKJ's post on it, I removed that block then removed the other end of the same tube (at the EGR valve itself) To block it, I put a small (50ml) plastic bottle on the end, You can see when the valve opens as the plastic bottle sucks in and crushes, when the valve releases the bottle expands again. This made quite a difference. I was always happy with the CRD, but now it seems again more responsive (even more that just after cleaning the Boost control sensor) I'm thinking that having the bottle on the end is giving the actuator a OK signal that the EGR is openning, where as before there would have been no movement in that switch to signal the EGR openning, so maybe it was backing off boost or fuel injectors or something at the ECU??? I dont know but all I know is its pretty good, and again a positive effect.

All this should stop all the soot and oil buildup. I mean seriously we talk about needing good air filters on these CRD's yet the cars own systems seem to be indroducing what feel like sandblasting into the intake.

Time will tell. now need to get a service done, oil change, new filter, as the oil is Black......... no actually, its blacker that black.... It BLACKBLACKBLACKYBLACK...Black

Glend · **Posted:** Thu Jun 03, 2010 5:46 am

Well you've started to get to the heart of the matter there Chris. Soot and oil make a real messy putty that clog up not just KJ CRDs but all modern turbo diesels. The Golf TDIs are another great example of emissions system that hobble the engine over time.

The EHM (Elephant Hose Mod) will drop out some oil on the driveway and make a mist mess around where it exits under the vehicle (keep it away from the exhaust pipes). I prefer the Provent for the cleanliness of the solution and it allows me to see how much oil (and water) is being collected.

When GDE gets the pre-2005 software ready you'll be able to forget about EGR forever, and you get 'other benefits' like injection timing changes, better fuel economy, more torque, etc etc.

Now that you've peered into the intake body hole wh,ere the Boost control sensor lives, just imagine what is lurking in there. I've yet to hear of an effective way to clean that up other than pulling the head sending it out to be flushed.
There is really nothing that you can shoot in there to clean it out that won't wind up in the cylinders.

The intercooler is probably also got some oil in it, but surprisingly when Phil R pulled his apart and sent it off to the radiator guys to pressure test and plug his leak, they did not find much oil in it - the suppostion is that the boost pressure was pushing it out into the EGR valve and intake body. Of course there is no soot going into the intercooler normally so that is a big bonus.

cmohr · **Posted:** Thu Jun 03, 2010 7:11 am

Thats right Glen, I can only imagine whats in that manifold :grim:

And yes, no soot thru the intercooler, I can clearly see the EGR pipe run around the back of the engine and connect to the intake manifold right below that Boost sensor, so no wonder it gets such a colection.

That breather I have done will not leak anything Its a loop down then up to a filter vent, any oil will collect in the bottom of the loop for the moment.. But it is only a very temporary mod, just until I get the provent, but, after seeing all that gunk I had to do something.

All in all........ Lov'in my KJ..

cmohr · **Posted:** Sun Jun 06, 2010 11:14 pm

Well, I did put in an oil catch can on the weekend, it may not be a "Provent" but it will do the job, Its a nice small unit (400cc) and has a drain on the bottom as well as a inspection port at the top, inlet and outlet, as well, it has a neat clear pipe up the side (so as you can see the level of oil in there) I have hidden it in behind my aircon condensor, fits perfectly there, and I have run the hoses round behind my fuel filter, I have not actually put the venting back into the airbox, I have fitted a small airfilter on the return hose, I'll see what occurs there. But happy with the instal and how its working. (Pics later)

I also whilst doing this, checked over my turbo hoses. I have installed my Samco hoses, and did notice quite a loud turbo whistle after my exhaust was fitted, but, what worried me was that I could see an oily build up around the top of the intercooler just near the hose connection. I found that the inlet turbo hose clamp (a funny looking one) was not sealing the pipe all the way around onto the intercooler, and that the whistle I was hearing was actually escaping boost when the turbo kicked in. The exhaust place must removed all the hoses when they were making the new dump pipe, and then put on the weird clamp that didnt seal properly. I have replaced the clamp with a conventional hose clamp, and now has a perfect seal, all whistle has gone. I cleaned up all the oily residue in the area, and I'll check it again soon, to make sure there is no leak. I was worried that maybe the intercooler was cracked and leaking, but after the whistle stopped I'm confident it was the problem.

One thing tho??????? The 2.5lt CRD does not seem to have a MAF sensor in, or, on the intake. It may be all in the boost control sensor, maybe an "all in one" sensor??????

Kj running better on takeoff now, (must have been that loss of boost at start off :wink:

) but, funny I never felt any other loss in power when driving any other time, just the whistle.

Glend · **Posted:** Mon Jun 07, 2010 1:48 am

Chris, what did you put inside the catch can for the oil to coalesce? Reason I ask is that they don't normally come with anything (for the rice burners). The Provent has a filter to promote the oil mist coalescing. I have heard that stainless steel pot scrubbers work well.

cmohr · **Posted:** Mon Jun 07, 2010 6:08 pm

Glend wrote:

Chris, what did you put inside the catch can for the oil to coalesce? Reason I ask is that they don't normally come with anything (for the rice burners). The Provent has a filter to promote the oil mist coalescing. I have heard that stainless steel pot scrubbers work well.

Exactly Glen... Good old steel wool, takes up some volume, but works a treat. The can has a allen screws around the top that makes it easy to take the whole top off, I know it sounds crazy , but I vaccumed it first to get rid of the steel dust, so as I only had the wool left. Maybe thats why they use the scrubbers, larger steel , but the wool works better.

Edit.... I did put a piece of filter paper at the top to stop any dusting . we use it here at work in the presses.

cmohr · **Posted:** Tue Jun 08, 2010 7:07 pm

You know, you have me thinking about now Glen, and rethinking, the wool in there with the filter ontop, the oil vapour is probably not going down into it and just bypassing it altogether (as the inlet and outlets on the top of the catch can are pretty close beside each other. I might see if I can get some expanded alloy mesh, and create a wall barrier between the two halfves of the interior betwix inlet and outlet, that way the mist has to go thru it, and that will get it coalescing in there, I wonder if I can get some charcoal to act as a scrubber????

Glend · **Posted:** Tue Jun 08, 2010 7:40 pm

Chris, originally I thought I woudl save a few bucks and tried to get a riceburner catchcan to work. I agree the inlet and outlet ports on most of them are likely to create a bypass of the filter medium. I cut a thin aluminium plate to fit in as a baffle to force the mist into the filter medium. In the end I abandoned the whole thing and went for the Provent. There are plenty of posts on LOST about building these things from poly pipe and pot scrubbers (must be stainless steel of course - otherwise you wind up with a can full of rust).

The Belafonte, ....Building a better CRD Version Pics P4

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