Help please, I am looking for the Accessory wire behind the hinge down panel under the steering wheel. I want to hook my new UHF (TX3100) up to the Accessory lead from the ignition (so that my UHF can never flatten my battery). Anyone know off the top of their head where it is? Where can I terminate the earth as well.

I used the cigarette lighter wires, spliced into both.

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'04 sport, 3.7, dobinsons 50mm lift, full skids, mopar rock rails,DTT's, 4.1's. 245/75/16 MT ATZ's

Thanks Ross, I'll pull that cubby out and get to those wires.

The cig lighter is probably the best option if you are going to splice onto existing wires as it should have a 30 or so amp fuse, just dont light the element while transmitting as it will prolly overload the circuit. Personally I would go straight off the battery with a fused lead. If you want it to turn off with the key put a relay in, this way you wont load up any of the potentially sensitive electrics.



86 to GND
85 to cig lighter +ve
87 to battery +ve with in line fuse
30 to radio +ve lead
Find a decent chassis bolt for the -ve or go direct to the battery -ve (pref)

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2005 2.8 CRD auto,
OME lift with a little extra
255/70R16 Cooper Discoverer ATR's
Airflow snorkel
Provent
Magnaflow
MOPAR alloy front bar, Lightforce 170's
3 out of 4 MOPAR skid plates, MOPAR hitch
GME UHF

Thanks Paul. After the nightmare I had running the Antenna coax through the firewall I really don't want to get in there again to do a battery lead. My cig lighter has a 20 amp fuse and is right next to the UHF location and is easy to access so that will probably be it. The cig lighter is only used to power my Sat Nav so I don't think I'll be overloading it with a radio that is inline fused to 2amps. I agree that best world solution might be a direct feed from the battery (and that is what I did on my boat) but too hard for me and my old back in the KJ.


Update:

Finished the install tonight. Had to pull the facia surrounding the radio and heater to get to the cig wires and drill the holes in the cubby for the radio cables. All is complete and working.

That's what Ed did when he installed mine, works a treat.

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Member No: 152595
Susky Bro V The Highlander Terminator, got it Wuggs

Lifted by CRDSTU
265/70/16 STT's on 16x8 Chrome Soft 8's
CDKJ

I have to say, the more I see installations like yours (neatly done, by the way, which is what we expect from Glend) the more I wonder why all CB's don't have the controls on the handset. Must be a real pain changing channels on the move.

Update: OK, I suppose the 50% - 100% price difference may have something to do with it!!

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November 2006 2.8 CRD manual, CRDSTU front springs, King HD rears, Polyairs, LT245/70R16 Pirelli Scorpion ATRs, DP chip, Airflow snorkel
TJM alloy front bar, Ox 9500lb winch, Hella Compact 4000 spots, Complete set Mopar skid plates, Mopar cargo barrier
GME TX3440 UHF, Codan NGT HF

Yeah Pipes the control mikes are just too expensive in my opinsion- in this GME series it is $100 more than mine and the electronics are exactly the same.

Changing channels on the move is ok as the transmission would be in Drive and the display and buttons are cleary visible and reachable to the driver. I toyed with mounting it on the side of the transmission tunnel, even stuck it on there with double sided tape to test the concept, but that was hard for the driver to see and operate as it was 90 degrees to my line of site, the passenger could not see or operate it at all, and it was cleary visible to any thief wishing to smash the window and grab it. Much harder to steal where it is (need tiny fingers to get to those knurled knob back under there). My clip on sunglasses still fit under there as well.