After much consideration I have decided to go ahead and install an Airflow snorkel. Stu is sending me one.

As I will be installing this myself any helpful hints from those that have done this before would be appreciated. I am hoping I can resist my normal tendancies to modify this thing.

Resistance is useless

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'04 sport, 3.7, dobinsons 50mm lift, full skids, mopar rock rails,DTT's, 4.1's. 245/75/16 MT ATZ's

So say the Borg!

I would Recommend you stay into touch with Stu(he did a great job of installing mine, and others, as you have seen). Also Cmohr & Fouros know the details on this install but all are in QLD. Good Luck

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02KJ LTD
245x75Rx16 Hankook MTRT03
ARB Winch Bar,Tiger11 Winch,4xNarva spots,GME UHF,Navman GPS
Mopar Skid Plates,dual battery system,Tubular Jeep s/steps,
2.5" Lift OME Shocks & King Springs,AirFlow Snorkel
Long Range fuel Tank 115 Ltre,Drawer Unit
Rola:Roof Rails,Basket,Shovel Holders & Luggage Boot
Desert Edge Off Road Camper

Stu asked me to give him a call the day before I do it so he can advise on how to save half the time, sounds good to me. I'm in no hurry.

The Snorkel arrived today. My modification genes kicked in as soon as I saw that restrictive opening in the snout that dumps to the airbox. The corrugated duct was included but that only yields about 75mm ID if best and that's if you cut the snout back to the body of the Snork. I am running a 90mm airbox tube at present and don't want to lose any low end performance through restriction of the intake (yes, I realise it is pressurised at speed but Stu seemed to run into problems from 0-60kph before the change over to the corrugated tube which only returned the intake to stock size). So..... I am thinking of opening up the Snorkel dump to the airbox (which is IMHO the weak link in the design) and this would be done by...yes you guessed it - a fabricated fibreglass oval duct that carries the necessary cross-sectional area to equate to 90mm diametre round ducting. It would need to be small enough in height to fit the limitations of the guard height. It would mean cutting the snout hole differently (not a circular hole anymore), and working out how to secure the fabricated duct to the snork, but it seems do-able and I like a challenge. I might ring around to Pirtek and a few other places to see if they have an oval, corrugated sprial wound duct with sufficient cross-sectional area to meet my needs. Who knows they might have flanges for those as well.

The standard corrugated tube attached to the snorkel would have an area of 38 squared * 3.14 = 4534 sq mm. My current 90mm airbox induction pipe would have an area of 45*3.14 = 6359 sq mm.

An oval duct 76 by 105 would have are area of 6384 sq mm. So using the same height Oval (76mm) as the standard corrugated 76mm duct (but widening it to 105mm) I should be able to meet the 90mm intake area of my present system (and gain with the ram affect as well).

Does this sound logical? Would the snorkel body tapering towards the snout carry enough cross-section to make oval opening up the dump worthwhile? At what point does ram pressure begin to distort the filter seal and mesh backplane?

I'm by no means an expert but there is some heated debates about the yes-no factor of ram air on a diesel in the diesel section of this forum, some say that a diesel is just an air pump and will only take the required air so "ram air" will make no difference. others think it makes a difference. Me, I think I need a snorkel just to get fresh air and maybe help with a river/creek crossing if I can ever find one to cross that will make me worry about water ingress.

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2003 CRD KJ Cherokee Sport
2" OME lift kit
245/70 R16 LT Bridgestone D694's
ARB Winch Bar with 12,000lb Winch fitted with ROPE
Full set of Mopar Skids (Modified to fit my year model)
Mopar OEM Fog Lights fitted to a SPORTS model
JEEP Spot Lights fitted
Rola Vortex Roof Basket

Yeah Damo I get it. My recent problems with the EGR pipe (which had me thinking it was a blown turbo hose) caused me to remove the turbo hose to check it. I was frankly surprised at the small diametre of the turbo output connection. If you look at CRDSTUs sticky on the Snorkel on AJOR, the connection from the airbox to the turbo inlet narrows down to about 73-76mm (can't remember exactly). As others have said over the years the opening up of the airbox intake side really will only reduce negative pressure in the box (caused by the turbo trying to grab air) and not create positive (as ram effect). Negative pressure will then cause the draw in of air from the positive pressure side (through the aixbox inlet - as the air pressure moves to equalise). Forced induction, whether through an airbox ram pipe (like my 90mm mod) or from a snorkel, will have limited benefit other than ensuring that air is already there when the engine wants it (thus the minimisation of negative pressure episodes (which may mean slightly quicker turbo spoolup). Does it matter whether the air comes in through a 90mm pipe, or a 76*105mm oval pipe, or a 76mm corrugated hose (standard snokel) - probably not, other than the millisecond differences possible through enhanced positive pressure maintenance. It comes down to just how obsessive are you about these things, and I admit I surrender to it from time to time.

The snorkel is installed. Very noticable with the window down, not an unpleasant sound. I went with the spiral tube. I actually fabbed up the fibreglass 76mm * 105mm tube but the amount of bending the spiral tube had to do could not be equaled by a stiff tube (I would have had to kink it and cut it to add another section - too much work for a dubious return on my time). I cut off the spiral tube attachment and just screwed the tube into the snork (with Sikaflex) - likewise on the airbox (junked the plastic fitting and just screwed the spiral tube into the box (less diametre loss that way I reckon). I bedded the entire snork in Sikaflex 227, Locktite on all the studs and nuts. Used the direct A pillar mounting technique for the support bracket - slicing the rubber molding and screwing it directly into the pillar metal (was that cmohrs suggestion - thanks). BTW there probably needs to be a little write up on doing that as the molding sits on a aluminium/plastic rail that I had to cut the spine out of to locate my bracket, and rig a rubber molding bypass (thanks Sikaflex).

As I told Stu, that third (inside) hole is the sort of job that they give to people in Hell! The first two were easy with my nibbler, but the third was unreachable with my tool so back to the old drilling and grinding. I'm now of the opinion that Stu does not charge enough for his installs!

Thanks to Stu for his assistance on the phone. If anyone is going to do this themselves I am happy to advise on all the things that are not in the instructions.