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 Post subject: Re: Kennedy lift pump installation
PostPosted: Fri May 06, 2016 1:46 pm 
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Posts: 202
After struggling with picks to (succesfully) remove the OEM connectors, I removed that fuel line, and was shocked to see color-coded "easy removal tabs" on the stock connectors!
Ummm, tempted to say... why hasn't anybody mentioned this fact anywhere? Do I have a freak line, or are those push-tab release connectors common and stock? Green tab on connector above tank; Yellow tab, other end of same line on connector above rear diff.
Spare yourself time and grief!
PICS IN POST BELOW.

-Due to the underwhelming search-engine algorithms on LJ, to help reduce both search-aggravation and thread-redundancy I encourage "Thread-Starters" to include relevant topic-specific keywords at the tail of their first post. Subsequent "Posters" can always supplement additional keywords-

KEYWORDS: (VIEW ENTIRE THREAD); fuel-pump, Kennedy fuel pump installation, installing fuel pump, kennedy, inline, in-line, fuel-line connectors, air in fuel, air-in-fuel, fuel-supply problems, fuel supply troubleshooting


Last edited by Gypsy62 on Sat May 07, 2016 6:10 pm, edited 3 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Kennedy lift pump installation
PostPosted: Sat May 07, 2016 1:41 am 
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UPDATE: DONT BUY A KENNEDY OR ANY OTHER NON SELF-PRIMING LIFT PUMP! I'm kicking myself! Read entire thread for details. The following is my misguided original post:

My Kennedy install in pics. Obviously, you can zoom-in to view detail:

Before you touch rear fuel-lines, remove and cap (I prefer clean drill-bit shanks) supply at the fuel-head; this nearly eliminates fuel-spillage when you remove the rear line ("finger-over-a-straw").

Image

Remove the 3 screws securng the cap-housing to permit lowering the fuel tank:

Image

Socket extensions required for easing removal of the 2 forward fuel-tank strap-bolts(15mm?):

Image

Tank lowered to right, providing excellent top-access (floor-jack obscured by blanket):

Image

Green push-tab to remove OEM tank-top fuel-fitting (obviously, connector is off-vehicle in pic):

Image

Yellow push-tab at other-end of OEM fuel-line:

Image

Fuel-supply fitting at tank (OEM fuel-line removed),l; it's the LARGEST line (right-side, mine). Notice SINGLE hose barb; you may need to heat the end of your new hose to get it to slide over the barb:

Image

Double-clamp new hose, one on each side of the barb:

Image

To reduce possibility of damage, I located my Kennedy between the tank and rear diff, on this relatively-protected horizontal frame tube (in pic, tank lowered). The frame-tube is 1 15/16" wide:

Image

This also permitted me to design a single-bolt mounting system (using an L-bracket and a piece of angle-iron) for easier Kennedy R&R (hopefully, never). To obtain the best fuel-line orientation, I installed the mounting brackets at an angle on top of the Kennedy (as pictured). Establishing and implementing that angle takes TIME (I suppose you could duplicate angle from pic). Also note pieces of clean towel inserted in Kennedy's hose-barbs to prevent contamination during design and install (use teflon-tape when installing hose-barbs on Kennedy).
If available, use all grade-8 hardware (here, pedaling for parts, not practical). The Kennedy's 2 included mounting-bolts tend to cross-thread; if you've got them started correctly there should be no resistance whatsoever when turning.
USE BLUE THREAD-LOCKER ON EVERYTHING.:

TOP-VIEW, before drilling angle-iron:

Image

Top View, after drilling angle-iron:

Image

Kennedy, installed.
Gorilla-tape wrapped any potential chaffing points. Shrink-wrapped Kennedy wiring past floor-grommet. Zip-tied where logical:

Image

I REJECTED a through-floor location so I wouldn't have to cut the stock METAL line for installation of new fuel line. That approach provides the added assurance of sliding/clamping the new line over OEM "barbs" at BOTH ends.
However, if that's your preferred mounting location, fine. Here's a simple bracket-setup option for through-floor alternative.

Image

If you elect to mount your Kennedy vertically through the back-deck (my initial intention), to reduce the possibility of carpet-damage when you mark and drill your bolt-holes from under-vehicle, slide a 2x4 (or firewood, etc) under the rear-deck's carpet; if your drill-bit hits scrap-wood, no worries:

Image

Here in Baja, I did battle with these rat-bastard bugs crawling all over me on the concrete pad. It didn't help that they look like the bugs from Star Trek that eat through your eardrum and latch onto your brain-stem...

Image

But this is post-nuke, trench-warfare; bugs are protein!

Suerte


Last edited by Gypsy62 on Wed Jan 25, 2017 10:29 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Kennedy lift pump installation
PostPosted: Sat Jun 04, 2016 1:38 am 
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Hi Gypsy 62. Any chance you can reload the pics. They are all broken.

Cheers

Chris

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2006 CRD Jeep Liberty / Cherokee - Weeks Stage 1 & 2, GDE Eco Tune, Carter In-Tank Fuel Pump & Provent 200.


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 Post subject: Re: Kennedy lift pump installation
PostPosted: Wed Jun 15, 2016 1:36 am 
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From my location, pics still appear on thread.
Is it possible that photobucket is only permitting viewability from my IP address?


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 Post subject: Re: Kennedy lift pump installation
PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2016 1:58 pm 
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Posts: 60
Sorry for the noob-ish questions, but I'm going to try to tackle this job in the next few days and I have limited mechanical skills. So, with the quick release fuel lines do they have problematic quick release connectors at the tank itself? I bought a kennedy lift pump in hopes that I wouldn't have to drop the tank, but I want to eliminate the known air leak areas. Assuming the fuel line issue is resolved is it really necessary to mount the pump near the tank? Are there other areas along the fuel line that are known to be problematic for leaks? It just seems like it would be easier to mount the pump in the engine bay. And sorry for this next question... Why is it necessary to power the pump from the wire that is only active for 20 seconds when the ignition is engaged? Is there a similar power source easily available in the engine bay? Thanks, everyone. With the cold mornings I'm starting to get quite a bit of air in the system and I'm sick of bleeding the jeep before heading to work.


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 Post subject: Re: Kennedy lift pump installation
PostPosted: Fri Dec 09, 2016 8:08 pm 
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Location: Green Cove Springs FL
I use a facet type pump in the engine bay. It works great.
I think the kennedy might be a bit too big and works better attached to the frame rail.

_________________
Bought my '05 CRD on June 2nd '07, used with 29,000 miles.
intake elbow and EGR delete. 7 volt Etecno glow plugs
Yeti stage 2 ECU tune. Straight pipe exhaust. DIY intercooler hoses
Provent and modified factory 180F thermostat
Replaced cylinder head (cracked) at 160,000 miles + ARP studs
Cheap 1 inch lift, 245-75R-16 tires.
Still love it.


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 Post subject: Re: Kennedy lift pump installation
PostPosted: Sat Dec 10, 2016 10:56 am 
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Location: Central GA
acuboy wrote:
Sorry for the noob-ish questions, but I'm going to try to tackle this job in the next few days and I have limited mechanical skills. So, with the quick release fuel lines do they have problematic quick release connectors at the tank itself? I bought a kennedy lift pump in hopes that I wouldn't have to drop the tank, but I want to eliminate the known air leak areas. Assuming the fuel line issue is resolved is it really necessary to mount the pump near the tank? Are there other areas along the fuel line that are known to be problematic for leaks? It just seems like it would be easier to mount the pump in the engine bay. And sorry for this next question... Why is it necessary to power the pump from the wire that is only active for 20 seconds when the ignition is engaged? Is there a similar power source easily available in the engine bay? Thanks, everyone. With the cold mornings I'm starting to get quite a bit of air in the system and I'm sick of bleeding the jeep before heading to work.

The factory fuel pump relay/system powers the fuel pump for 15-20 seconds when the ign. sw. is first turned to the on position, then it powers / runs the pump continuously as soon as the engine starts up...

There is no need to change the OEM fuel line fittings if the lift pump is installed inside the fuel tank as they are designed for positive pressure applications and will not leak air into the fuel system...
Dropping the fuel tank is a little bit of work to access the tank module change out, but it provides the cleanest trouble free factory like system available... :wink:

_________________
2005 Jeep LibertyCRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stage4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit & Battery Tray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast&Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic. Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat,
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan / Hayden HD clutch
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


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 Post subject: Re: Kennedy lift pump installation
PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 3:24 pm 
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UPDATE: JANUARY 2017.

My jeep has been undergoing major surgery the past five months as time & task has permitted. I just wrapped for post-tbelt testing and had a fuel-supply issue.
I isolated my virtually unused shiny new Kennedy pump to confirm operation: ZIP. Whirls like a wizard but no flow.
PO'D at its premature failure, I just spoke to John at Kennedy: THESE ARE NOT SELF-PRIMING!!!
What is the point of this thing if you can't rely on it to pressurize the ENTIRE fuel system? It's useless for sparing the battery/starter:
A. If you're changing fuel filters or servicing the fuel head and the line backflows dry to the tank.
B. If you're drunk-err, I mean distracted and run out of fuel.

No way would I have chosen a non self-priming pump for this application. Sure, my fault for assuming that it was, but I just erroneously trusted that any aftermarket pump being discussed on LJ for lift purposes would be self-priming.

Therefore, NO WAY do I recommend these Kennedy pumps!
%#@&[×* !!!

I'm not entirely abandoning my position that an external pump has some advantages over an in-tank pump, but now I may grudgingly burn the kennedys cost and replace it with the type of heavy-duty SELF-PRIMING pumps used in agricultural spray applications. I'm toooo familiar with them from WVO systems in pre-pstroke fords; they're indestructibly reliable, but you have to dial-in the correct pressure down from 45psi.

I'll also research pressure-correct SELF-PRIMERS and report back.

In-favor of the in-tank, I have to say KJ tanks are very easy to drop and dangle to the right-side permitting fairly speedy and painless access to an in-tank pump when necessary to service.


Last edited by Gypsy62 on Wed Jan 11, 2017 9:33 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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 Post subject: Re: Kennedy lift pump installation
PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 7:23 pm 
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Joined: Fri Jun 22, 2007 11:43 am
Posts: 3793
Location: Green Cove Springs FL
A check valve in the line would prevent fuel drain back.

I use a facet pump. It's self priming and has a check valve.
Sorry, I don't remember the part number.

_________________
Bought my '05 CRD on June 2nd '07, used with 29,000 miles.
intake elbow and EGR delete. 7 volt Etecno glow plugs
Yeti stage 2 ECU tune. Straight pipe exhaust. DIY intercooler hoses
Provent and modified factory 180F thermostat
Replaced cylinder head (cracked) at 160,000 miles + ARP studs
Cheap 1 inch lift, 245-75R-16 tires.
Still love it.


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 Post subject: Re: Kennedy lift pump installation
PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 8:59 pm 
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Location: Central GA
Absolute best option; put in an-tank pump and FORGET IT!!!! PROBLEM SOLVED!!! :BANANA:
I don't understand why some insist on toying with these external fuel pumps that always seem to give problems at some point and time! :shock:
Not to mention all the mounting and location issues... :roll:
Most of the external in-line pumps cost more than the in-tank pump anyway!!!

_________________
2005 Jeep LibertyCRD Limited :JEEPIN:
Blk Brush Guard/Hella's
Ironman Springs/Bilstein's
Yeti Stage4 MaxTune
Weeks ElbowKit & Battery Tray
NO FCV/EGR
Samcos/ProVent
SunCoast&Transgo
Carter Intank-pump
2mic. Sec.Fuel Filter
Flowmaster/NOcat,
V6 Airbox
GM11 blade fan / Hayden HD clutch
98 Dodge Cummins, 5"exh. Viair, Huge K&N


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 Post subject: Re: Kennedy lift pump installation
PostPosted: Wed Jan 11, 2017 9:59 pm 
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The Kennedy didn't die, it just needed to be primed (which is unacceptable to me).

Yeah, obviously the in-tank option has advantages, too. Probably more. I may go that route. My normal bias for external pumps doesn't really apply here:
A. Ease of access for installation & service: these tanks are easy to drop.
B. Being able to source a greater variety of pumps.
C. Multi-purpose pump configuration: utilizing valves/lines, being able to use the external pump as an independent transfer unit. Besides, in order to maximize that function it would require an on-off switch, not just the ignition-on burst.

Again, I'm shocked this kennedy brand of non-priming pump earned it's own thread.

BUYER BEWARE: DON'T USE THE KENNEDY, OR ANY OTHER NON SELF-PRIMING PUMP.

After purchasing one new and investing time, energy and money into installation, I've repeatedly suffered priming issues, imho compared to any non-priming external pump an in-tank pump is a 10x better option.

I may mount the Kennedy somewhere as a dedicated transfer unit, and keep a squeeze-primer next to it #&%@ !
On the upside, if I do go in-tank then at least I've already bypassed the first 2 funky OEM fuel fittings.


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 Post subject: Re: Kennedy lift pump installation
PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2017 9:36 am 
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I'm just curious why you didn't prime the kennedy you had with the priming pump at the fuel filter head. We already know they will pull from the tank to the filter....

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 Post subject: Re: Kennedy lift pump installation
PostPosted: Thu Jan 12, 2017 12:25 pm 
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Because I did not know that the Kennedy wasn't self-priming and wanted to confirm precisely why I wasn't getting flow solely using the ignition-on as a power-primer.

I still can't be 100% certain that there wasn't some crimping/constriction occurring above-tank where the modified fuel line made its 180 to route forward. Now, at least that possibility has been eliminated.

Anyway, I'm self-disgusted that I bought and installed a non-priming pump. However, since I've already plunged headlong into the rocks of stupidity I'm going to reinstall it and insert a quality check-valve downstream. Waste less money on a partial solution, and the pump's fittings and wiring are already installed.
(Thanks to Flash for the check-valve reminder. Infuriation can veil the obvious)

A quality non-primer is certainly better than nothing, and as long as the fuel gauge doesn't take a surprise dump I have no plans to run it dry. Of course, you are correct; the manual primer is always available. I'm just PO'd that I'd have to use it at all.


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 Post subject: Re: Kennedy lift pump installation
PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2017 2:11 pm 
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If anybody is looking for a kennedy lift pump I have a brand new one to sell. I ended up going with the in-tank solution and missed the window for returning the kennedy pump. I'll probably throw it on ebay in a week or so. If you want just pm me and I'll give you a good price!

thanks
duncan


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 Post subject: Re: Kennedy lift pump installation
PostPosted: Thu Jan 19, 2017 4:07 pm 
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It's really not worth skipping the in tank pump. I mean the thing is about as OEM as you can get. Dropping the tank is NOT hard if you have a floor jack. The only thing I've heard is getting the new pump to twist in to the locking tabs can be tough, but all I had to do was put my knee on the pump, put my weigh on it, and then use a piece of wood and a hammer to give it a few taps and it clicked in.

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The Red Rocket-2006 CRD-400 ft-lb tune, Eco Trans Tune, Week's Kit, Mishimoto Hoses, Airtex Lift Pump, HDS Tstat, 2 Micron Racor, ARP's, OME 790's+top plate+clevis, JBA 2.5" rear+Iso, JBA UCA, Moab's, 265/70R16 Duratracs, ARB Bumper

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