Elecronic draw- Jeep liberty CRD- unknown cause

Danno150 · **Joined:** Fri Jul 19, 2019 4:10 pm **Posts:** 19

Hi- 2005 CDR Jeep Liberty.. Something is causing a constant draw on battery. IF it sits for a day or 3, battery will be dead. About 6 Months ago this started. Thus far- it is not the Battery nor the alternator, battery new- Optimia - alternator 2 years old and pushed 14 volts. There is a few google suggestions that -several things- from cigarette lighter to power connector for trailer is guilty.
However- computer and electronics for a Diesel are not the same as a gas model.
I have a tester but would like to know how and what's expected to check fuses on what setting to hopefully find a continuous draw that is not wanted. I have a quick connect I installed for the negative battery post so I don't get stranded when away at work.
Any other suggestions or experiences- bring it on. . . .please.
Help.

New addition 1 14- 2024. I know you can't stand the suspense, I am continuing to search as detailed response suggests. Jeep is often parked all week giving me weekends - outdoors- to work on. Last couple have given no time and foul weather. I haven't given up. Will update.

Dan.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Wed Jan 03, 2024 2:43 pm

Sorry, this is kinda long, but here goes.....

To Test for Parasitic Battery Drain

To test for the overall system voltage draw on a battery:
With the key off, all doors shut and locked using remote, and then waiting for at least 1 hour or more to allow for all modules to time out (go to sleep).

TEST A
• Connect a multimeter set to milliamps between the negative battery post and the negative battery cable, then being careful, disconnect the negative battery cable while keeping the leads connected. or in your case use the quick disconnect.
• You can also use an AMP Clamp Meter to Measure Parasitic Battery Drain in place of a multimeter. Simply clamp it around the main negative battery cable with it set to milliamps.

NOTE: If using a multimeter, it is important to maintain the connection through the multimeter when you disconnect the battery cable so you don't have to go through the wait period again to allow all the modules to time out (go to sleep). If you simply disconnect the battery cable and then connect the multimeters' leads from the battery cable to the battery post, you will have to wait and allow all the modules to time out (go to sleep) to prevent any false readings.
This test will provide you with the overall system drain/voltage which should be 0.045 amps (45 milliamps) or less which is generally considered acceptable for a vehicle’s battery when the vehicle is at rest and all modules have timed out (went to sleep).

Now, if your system drain voltage is >45 milliamps, it is time to test each individual fuse to determine which circuit is causing the unwanted drain on the battery.

• With one multimeter still set to milliamps connected between the negative battery cable and negative battery post.
(A 12v test light can be used in place of the multimeter for this test if you only have one multimeter available.) A 12v light connected between the battery cable & battery post while they are disconnected will indicate a battery drain by being illuminated; the brighter the bulb burns, the greater the battery drain. This method will just not tell you the total amount of the drain which you really need to know.

TEST B
• To perform this test, it is best to use a second multimeter set to millivolts and read the voltage draw across each individual fuse until you find the one(s) with the highest volt reading. (Could be more than one)
• Start with the fuses in the TIPM (Power Distribution Center) under the hood, and then move to the fuse panel on the left side of the dash
• Once you have found the suspect fuse or fuses with the highest voltage reading, remove the fuses one at a time while at the same time observing the milliamp reading on the multimeter that is connected between the battery post and cable. When the fuse is removed (pulled), the milliamp reading should drop. If it drops to <45 milliamps or less, you have found your main parasitic drain. (Be aware, in some cases, it may be more than one fuse {circuit} causing the unwanted drain on the battery. This is why it is very important to watch the total drain on the system at the battery when removing each suspect fuse.

There are plenty of YouTube Videos if you search which shows how to check for parasitic drain on a vehicle's battery.
Here are a couple samples:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=lRcj1fQ ... leMechanic
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jnQ3qCY ... 7sAnalysis

:SOMBRERO:

Danno150 · **Joined:** Fri Jul 19, 2019 4:10 pm **Posts:** 19

Hi. Sorry for my delays. Yes -my - delays.
Between work, snow, weather, work and laziness, just completed today.
I watched the 2 videos attached, great ideas but I simply don't posses that kind of equipment.
I went through the A/and B/ sequences. When disconnecting the battery (disconnect switch) - my meter has a 20ma switch and a 200ma switch, near as I can see it just moved the decimal point.
When battery was connected, meter showed flat zeros 000.0. When disconnected, same showing. This I admit did confuse me. I tried the 20ma, same readings. My mind- no draw. Should this have not read -something?.
I should add that I opened the drivers door simply for future access and closed the latch and let the vehicle rest over an hour (suggested in videos) to allow the electronics to 'sleep'.
I then went to the fuse box under hood- large fuses via battery. I may have lost proper sequence here, battery quick connect was still in disconnect position. I checked the open fuses (same size as interior left side dash) and the larger ones that had to be removed to check pins. All showed zero, but how could they show other if the battery test showed zero?. It was mentioned to use millivolts for this test. My meter has no such thing. I used the voltage setting, likely wrong. Some of the bigger fuses showed 58 volts, some showed 25/29 some zero.
By this time I was thoroughly mixed up, how are these readings possible?. Some of the xtra large fuses have multiple pins. I did try the Ma setting here- all zero. In the videos it said there was a risk of pulling a fuse and placing the system back into 'wake up mode', it's possible I didn't this.
The negative post is disconnected.
I tested [b]voltage[b] on all the dash fuses, all were zero. ???.
I'm sure your reading this thinking 'dummy' you should have done . . . .
I do hope it jumps off the page and you can set me right as that light bulb has not lit here just yet. It was about -8 when I was in the yard, feet are still cold. lol
If you can see what I did wrong - please do tell.

Last Summer when this all started, I left the house here to mow grass at Folks Cottage, vehicle started here fine, about an hours drive 55 miles secondary roads. I used a drive thru coffee place about 1/2 way. Just after leaving with coffee, pings from dash, followed by more, air bag lights, low fuel (was full) power steering, radio shut itself off, time I reached cottage it wouldn't even shift gears, A/C was not turned on at the time. Stopped at gate to shore, quit, not enough power to run the radio, that's how fast it drained a full battery. I then replaced the battery (old one is still here running a 12v bilge pump and works fine). Since then the drain, possibly prior that I didn't connect. Now when doors are opened, none of the interior lights come on etc., that may be an internal setting?.
Few years prior I added a fuel pump when Jeep wouldn't start (took 2 Months to diagnose a bad crank p/u, then another Month to determine it had to be an 'original' Bosh p/u as the computer reads 'incompatible part'. Pump still is fine it can be heard when key is cycled ahead.
I mentioned this as there may be some kind of connection for the trained eye.
I rarely suffer from to much information.

Dan.

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Sat Feb 17, 2024 2:36 pm

Lots of questions on how you performed your tests and what Multimeter are you using.
1. what is the brand of Multimeter are you using? Most have a mA or A, mV, V-DC, settings, etc...see enclosed picture below.
...... (the Amp setting may autoscale and you will not have an mA setting depending on the meters functions)
2. where are you connecting your meter leads when you perform your test? Makes a huge difference!
3. are you physically removing the negative battery cable from the battery post when performing the parasitic draw test?
4. do you have the battery connected (in service) when performing the mV test across each fuse.

Final, where are you located?
May have to talk by phone to walk you through some of these tests to ensure you are performing them correctly. :wink:

You can email or PM for more info.

Danno150 · **Joined:** Fri Jul 19, 2019 4:10 pm **Posts:** 19

Sorry wrote all and was checking your meter picture and lost my potential reply. I'll try again.
1/ Meter is a Hioki 3200 that I've had for years. Works well but generally used for voltages and ohms. Has volts, ohms, 20na 200na 20ma 200ma and 10a.
https://www.bing.com/images/search?view ... orm=rc2idp
2/ Leads are slot type to device- pin type at probe ends. Connected device ends to common-black and na, ma slot (same slot) to device. Connected to battery cable and top (connected part) of quick connect - when in the non connected state, screw loosened.
3/ No I did not as per suggestion of first reply where I have a quick disconnect.
4/ Yes/no, was disconnected at first try, (quick connect), then reconnected after zero readings from meter on Ma. This is where I was unsure it connection was to be made or not.
No doubt I messed something up, but I've yet to see just what.
I'm in NB Canada.
Did I say something wrong?.

Dan.

Elecronic draw- Jeep liberty CRD- unknown cause

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