Homemade Provent installed

RJM · **Posted:** Sun Sep 27, 2009 1:59 pm

Squeeto wrote:

Quote:

Both my units are drilled and tapped

How thick is the plastic where you tapped? I have 3/4 inch of thread contact with pvc to pvc fittings (with teflon tape) and they leaked.

Approx 1/4", The body of the filter is not PVC I think it is structural foam, the same material used to make heavy duty tool boxes. try silicone on the threads as pipe dope instead of teflon tape, make sure both male and female ends are clean with no oil residue. It seals better and has greater vibration resistence.

Squeeto · **Posted:** Sun Sep 27, 2009 2:22 pm

If you only have about 1/4 inch with no trouble, I probably should have been less delicate with mine. I was just concerned about plastic stress.

I have all the parts so I will probably just go and get pvc solvent and glue. Permanently weld it all together except for the top (oil free) fittings for access.

I do like the idea of the 'see through' bowl though. Only, I have tapped acrylic for pipe fittings before and it definitely chips.

Squeeto · **Posted:** Sun Oct 11, 2009 3:41 pm

This is my final glued version. The top (dry section) is not glued so that the inside can be accessed.
It has been in the truck for a week and it is not leaking.

Squeeto · **Posted:** Sun Jan 10, 2010 12:57 am

This is 4700 km (2900 miles) later.

Not much oil but none seems to be lining the hose exiting the top.

Auberon · **Posted:** Sun Jan 10, 2010 12:21 pm

I went there, with my initial thoughts, then after much study, became aware of the potential issues of micro-swarf released from any type of steel-wool. As one who machines metal, this rang true when I reflected on the microscopic particles produced no matter how cleanly the swarf parts away from stock.
When I do mine will post for comment.

I truly hope you have no grief from what is supposed to be a demon that sneaks up on you.
Cheers
Auberon

Squeeto · **Posted:** Sun Jan 10, 2010 1:23 pm

It's ok, I bought the laser swarfed steel wool.

I didn't glue the top so I still have access. Let us know what you do.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Jan 10, 2010 1:35 pm

I have a question.............

Would a "copper wool" pan cleaner pad work better than the steel wool pad?

Squeeto · **Posted:** Sun Jan 10, 2010 3:43 pm

I don't see any harm. You could probably use carbon filter pads for fish tanks too.
My only worry is small pieces breaking off and finding their way into the intake.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sun Jan 10, 2010 7:19 pm

I don't think that could happen, I mean I just don't see what would cause the steel strands to rip off and then travel on a vertical incline for approx. 24 inches?

Squeeto · **Posted:** Sun Jan 10, 2010 9:12 pm

You might need to do some work on another part of the engine, pull out your homemade provent, set it on its side, now it is half way to inverted. But I was mainly thinking about the carbon pads deteriorating and getting sucked in.

Auberon · **Posted:** Mon Jan 11, 2010 12:28 am

I'm referring to particulates a few microns across and very abrasive, able to stay in colloidal/brownian motion in oils.
Cheers
Auberon

Squeeto · **Posted:** Mon Jan 11, 2010 1:11 am

We had a cruise ship quarantined a few years back, I think due to everyone having colloidal brownian motion.

___________

If this is really an issue, some who have piped the drain back to the block may want to know about this.

racertracer · **Posted:** Sat Feb 27, 2010 10:17 pm

This set up works. I installed it back in November and I used 2 Chore Boy Copper Scrub Pads instead of steel wool.

During my recent oil change I checked the reservoir in my home made Provent type oil separator and it was half full, I easily drained the oil into a cup.

It was an easy set-up. It cost me 26 dollars in parts and after 7000 miles it collected a 1/2 cup of oil in the reservoir.

Drains easily and it keeps the intake plumbing clean. :lol:

This works........ what's not to like?

arengant · **Posted:** Fri Feb 25, 2011 2:14 pm

what's to prevent the copper from letting off particles also?

I might be confused (again) but I thought GDE suggested that no provent is necessary as long you are taking the carbon out of the oil using their tune. A little clean oil shouldn't hurt right??

jnw010 · **Joined:** Thu Aug 05, 2010 3:51 pm **Posts:** 9

I've done something very similar, but left the end venting to air. Essentially it's an EHM without all the smoke.
I used a compact sink waste trap. The bottom unscrews and I clean the gunk out every oil change.

At first I just used the steel scrubbers

But I found there was still some smoke coming out, so I ended up using some carbon filter material from a cooker extracter fan which I cut up and added to the srubber. It seems to work well enough.

Squeeto · **Posted:** Sun May 22, 2011 10:26 am

jnw010
Good idea. Nice clean catch can.
Not all the ehm guys will see it in this thread though.
You should make a mention of it in 'Liberty CRD...Love that Torque'.

The hose connection is compression-fit? Is it 3/4 inch?

You might consider drilling a few holes in the filter tube for pressure bypass if the oil fills up enough to reach the lip.

ibHenry · **Posted:** Tue Sep 20, 2011 4:34 pm

Just run your clear vinyl hose directly to your filter box, drill a 7/8 hole and insert hose and attach a breather filer, it works awesome. :grim:

It costs almost 10.00 bucks! I will post some pictures this weekend.

arengant · **Posted:** Tue Sep 20, 2011 7:20 pm

You don't think you'll clog up the air filter?

bluecurd · **Posted:** Fri Feb 24, 2012 1:24 am

When the gulf coast was doused with oil, some people in Florida suggested using coastal Bermuda hay because of it's natural ability to absorb oil. I know we're talking about hot vapors and such, but it seems that hay would not gum up as quick as cotton balls, and if you had first a layer of this, then a layer of steel wool, and finally a screen filter to catch metallic/grass debris, could this work well? Also as far as the screen mentioned goes, could you use a snorkel pre filter/dust guard? (such as the one RRO supplies with their snorkels). Very nice job on your separators, this is my next project after the final stages of my lift this weekend

jsrmonster · **Posted:** Fri Feb 24, 2012 9:56 am

CCV (crank case vent) mod is must for all diesels. Been using this homemade one for years in my TDI's. All parts are glued except the lid which is press fit. Use 3/4" heater hose, 1/2" or smaller hose may clog up with crud/sludge. Make sure there ar no kinks either.

The blowby/crap coming out of the breather coats the compressor wheel with oil, water, acid, soot, and other byproducts of combustion.

A heavily oiled compressor wheel will get out of balance and kill a turbo quickly. When kept clean will last many miles.

Jeff

Link to tdiclub - my $10 ccv catch can:
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showpost.php? ... ostcount=7

Homemade Provent installed

Who is online