DIY ECU Flash

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Fri Mar 04, 2016 1:35 pm

I currently have the GDE "Full torque" tune and want to try a milder tune and am not wanting to brick my ECM doing it.

So I have a spare ECM on the way the vehicle specific data will need put into it.

I looked at the MPPS software found no option for that.

So I'm asking what is the best or easiest way to get the vehicle information into it :?:

Keith at GDE will do it but that involves shipping.

I would like to copy the information myself if possible

Thanks

Joe

kouik · **Posted:** Fri Mar 04, 2016 2:27 pm

mass-hole wrote:

Did you ever figure this out?

These are how I got all the info on how SOI maps work:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=m9zBF7dRYMU

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=WoOBaTTI7fo

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zZA0xX0ExhY

Nah, I'm still trying to decipher this mystery, seems that the first three maps control the start of the main injection, but I can't put my finger on what triggers them, air temp, coolant temp or fuel temp... but I did find something rather impressive for fuel economy. It seems that with the EGR disabled I had good results with a SOI advance ranging from 4 to 12deg across the RPM band on map 1,2 and 3. I also had good result with lower fuel pressures and higher turbo pressures. Although lowering fuel pressure kills horsepowers it does somewhat increase engine torque due to a slower burn, but I had to compensate with an earlier SOI to give time for the combustion process to occur. I seem to have achieved a tune that has considerable power and a fuel economy (10L/100km @ -18 Celsius 75mph highway cruise), which is better than nothing given the conditions. The problem right now for me is testing those tunes, the weather has been all over the place lately, ranging from arctic frigid cold to spring like rainfall from one day to another. Without any consistency its hard to tell what the tunes really do for MPG. But in my case upping the rail pressure always resulted in a substantial lost of fuel economy. Perhaps because of the parasitic power draw from the fuel injection pump, perhaps because I have a small leak at injector number 3 or both...

Again thank you for the valuable info, every little bit helps!

mass-hole · **Posted:** Fri Mar 04, 2016 9:53 pm

Joe Romas wrote:

I currently have the GDE "Full torque" tune and want to try a milder tune and am not wanting to brick my ECM doing it.

So I have a spare ECM on the way the vehicle specific data will need put into it.

I looked at the MPPS software found no option for that.

So I'm asking what is the best or easiest way to get the vehicle information into it :?:

Keith at GDE will do it but that involves shipping.

I would like to copy the information myself if possible

Thanks

Joe

If you are refering to the vin number and all that stuff, then no I have not heard of a way to do that.

Greybeast · **Joined:** Sun Feb 21, 2016 9:08 pm **Posts:** 5

I posted a page back that I had modified the Stock 526 to have EGR-FVC_delete

I went back and validated and found I had missed one section of the FVC - I have fixed it and I am pretty sure I got it all right - it seems all the change addresses end up being the exact same as the 808
here is the modded 526 on drop-box - Hope I got it right
https://www.dropbox.com/s/y3nuqd0oyzmtgvf/Greybeast-526-EGR_FCV_delete-stock.bin?dl=0

Yeti · **Posted:** Sat Mar 05, 2016 11:52 am

Joe Romas wrote:

I currently have the GDE "Full torque" tune and want to try a milder tune and am not wanting to brick my ECM doing it.

So I have a spare ECM on the way the vehicle specific data will need put into it.

I looked at the MPPS software found no option for that.

So I'm asking what is the best or easiest way to get the vehicle information into it :?:

Keith at GDE will do it but that involves shipping.

I would like to copy the information myself if possible

Thanks

Joe

you need the same hardware ECU 1st , then you need to open the ECU , buy the KTag china clone and read the e2p and the flash , clone the ECU and write the clone in the new ECU , you need to solder some pin or buy a specific bench like in this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5KPvVKLoD04

in the video they use a " Galletto " FGTech V54 china clone .....I do not suggest to use this programmer , is very instable

mass-hole · **Posted:** Sat Mar 05, 2016 1:06 pm

Yeti wrote:

Joe Romas wrote:

I currently have the GDE "Full torque" tune and want to try a milder tune and am not wanting to brick my ECM doing it.

So I have a spare ECM on the way the vehicle specific data will need put into it.

I looked at the MPPS software found no option for that.

So I'm asking what is the best or easiest way to get the vehicle information into it :?:

Keith at GDE will do it but that involves shipping.

I would like to copy the information myself if possible

Thanks

Joe

you need the same hardware ECU 1st , then you need to open the ECU , buy the KTag china clone and read the e2p and the flash , clone the ECU and write the clone in the new ECU , you need to solder some pin or buy a specific bench like in this video

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=5KPvVKLoD04

in the video they use a " Galletto " FGTech V54 china clone .....I do not suggest to use this programmer , is very instable

He should probably just mail it to gde, lol

Yeti · **Posted:** Sat Mar 05, 2016 4:16 pm

yes is not simple job

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Sat Mar 05, 2016 4:29 pm

Yeti wrote:

:lol: yes is not simple job

Will do. Thanks to you both :SOMBRERO:

3/8/16 Update.

I received my used ECM today and sent it to GDE to have vehicle specific data and a stock OEM tune loaded.
We'll be out of town for about a week and hopefully it will be here when I return.

Anyone found a pre f37 tune yet? That with EGR and FCV delete might be perfect :lol:

My Liberty is now a grocery getter and I'm looking for quiet, reliability, longivity and easy on fuel

Joe

phum · **Posted:** Sat Mar 05, 2016 7:21 pm

Hello all,
Have read with interest,
Will this system and tunes work with the 2006 export model such as we have in Australia?
thanks,
Peter

Yeti · **Posted:** Sun Mar 06, 2016 12:53 pm

ooo yess , change something in the EGR management , but you can do it

phum · **Posted:** Sun Mar 06, 2016 4:58 pm

Yeti wrote:

ooo yess , change something in the EGR management , but you can do it

Is that a yes or a no?
doesnt sound as if its as simple as with European / American models, is that correct

Yeti · **Posted:** Mon Mar 07, 2016 6:25 am

it's a yes , Australian model have the same file present in the EU revison

phum · **Posted:** Mon Mar 07, 2016 5:37 pm

Yeti wrote:

it's a yes , Australian model have the same file present in the EU revison

Thanks,
Now for the fun

wilco549 · **Posted:** Thu Mar 10, 2016 8:53 am

I'm testing the Yeti Stage IV 811 tune in my '05 and have ran into a slight performance issue: around 2500 rpm in higher gears the engine appears to have a mild miss every 1/2 sec and is fairly repetitive. Very much like a spark plug misfire in a gasser. Not noticed accelerating up through the lower gears. Not noticed under full torque but under less torque. I will probably go back to the stage II this evening as I did not have any issues with it. Any suggestions or anything I should be looking for, ie. bad parts under the hood? Has anyone else had the problem with this tune and found root cause?

:JEEPIN:

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Mar 10, 2016 9:54 am

Been running the Stage IV Hot tune for over a couple of years now with absolute no problems!!! :wink:

Could the problem you describe be fuel related or an injector issue??? Do you have a lift pump installed?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Thu Mar 10, 2016 2:49 pm

wilco549 wrote:

I'm testing the Yeti Stage IV 811 tune in my '05 and have ran into a slight performance issue: around 2500 rpm in higher gears the engine appears to have a mild miss every 1/2 sec and is fairly repetitive. Very much like a spark plug misfire in a gasser. Not noticed accelerating up through the lower gears. Not noticed under full torque but under less torque. I will probably go back to the stage II this evening as I did not have any issues with it. Any suggestions or anything I should be looking for, ie. bad parts under the hood? Has anyone else had the problem with this tune and found root cause?

:JEEPIN:

The first time I loaded up the stage4 tune back in September I noticed more power but there were times where it really ran like crap. I thought the tune screwed something up so I went back to the stock tune. It still ran like crap so something else had to be the problem.
Turned out that I had a problem with the rail pressure sensor and the wiring going to the MPROP. Once I got those worked out the engine started running right again.

The stage4 tune pushed rail pressures higher. I have a fuel rail pressure gauge so I could definitely see the difference. Higher pressure means more fuel being injected.
If you have a fuel supply problem on the low pressure side the engine might be starved for fuel at higher RPM.

The fuel rail pressure gauge has turned out to be a great diagnostic tool.
The TorquePro app on my tablet is also a good diagnostic tool.
And of course, scan for codes whenever you suspect a problem.

I've recently re-loaded the stage4 tune. Here is what I've noticed compared to the stage2:

1. rail pressure is higher under hard acceleration. About 24-25,000psi. Where stage2 was 22-23,000psi.

2. boost is lower. About 20-21psi. Stage2 was 22-23psi. (yes, I have a boost gauge too)

3. less torque converter shudder.
I still have a stock TC and I dont know why but its harder for me to induce shudder. You'd think that with more power there would be more shudder but I only really notice when it shifts into 5th.

4. MPG ???. Dont know yet but I expect it to be about the same.

wilco549 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 11, 2016 7:14 am

No lift pump. I guess I need a fuel rail pressure gauge to diagnose the root cause?

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 11, 2016 10:34 am

wilco549 wrote:

No lift pump. I guess I need a fuel rail pressure gauge to diagnose the root cause?

A ELM327 OBD bluetooth adapter + Android phone or tablet + TorquePro app will offer the most diagnostic abilities for the buck. Can read several different sensors and scan for codes. It can give you an idea of what rail pressure is supposed to be but its not a direct read on the rail pressure sensor.

Check all your fuel lines leading from the tank to the fuel filter and from the filter to the engine. Make sure that the fuel filter is tight and purge any air from the filter head.

Although the in-tank lift pump is best, there are half a dozen ways of doing a lift pump.
I use a Facet pump mounted up in the engine bay, at the fuel filter inlet.

wilco549 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 11, 2016 3:38 pm

flash7210 wrote:

wilco549 wrote:

No lift pump. I guess I need a fuel rail pressure gauge to diagnose the root cause?

A ELM327 OBD bluetooth adapter + Android phone or tablet + TorquePro app will offer the most diagnostic abilities for the buck. Can read several different sensors and scan for codes. It can give you an idea of what rail pressure is supposed to be but its not a direct read on the rail pressure sensor.

Check all your fuel lines leading from the tank to the fuel filter and from the filter to the engine. Make sure that the fuel filter is tight and purge any air from the filter head.

Although the in-tank lift pump is best, there are half a dozen ways of doing a lift pump.
I use a Facet pump mounted up in the engine bay, at the fuel filter inlet.

I have the ELM327 but it appears to me that I would only read the sensor value, not actual pressure. If the value indicated by the sensor is out of range, would it not set a code? By my thinking the sensor needs to be validated by a gauge.

flash7210 · **Posted:** Fri Mar 11, 2016 4:37 pm

wilco549 wrote:

flash7210 wrote:

wilco549 wrote:

No lift pump. I guess I need a fuel rail pressure gauge to diagnose the root cause?

A ELM327 OBD bluetooth adapter + Android phone or tablet + TorquePro app will offer the most diagnostic abilities for the buck. Can read several different sensors and scan for codes. It can give you an idea of what rail pressure is supposed to be but its not a direct read on the rail pressure sensor.

Check all your fuel lines leading from the tank to the fuel filter and from the filter to the engine. Make sure that the fuel filter is tight and purge any air from the filter head.

Although the in-tank lift pump is best, there are half a dozen ways of doing a lift pump.
I use a Facet pump mounted up in the engine bay, at the fuel filter inlet.

I have the ELM327 but it appears to me that I would only read the sensor value, not actual pressure. If the value indicated by the sensor is out of range, would it not set a code? By my thinking the sensor needs to be validated by a gauge.

My AutoMeter fuel rail pressure gauge is wired directly to the fuel rail pressure sensor. If there were a pressure sensor problem it would either display zero pressure or an erratic reading.

I dont know which app you are using but when I use TorquPro its not a direct reading from the fuel pressure sensor. I can have the engine idling and then unplug the pressure sensor, TorquePro will display 26,400 psi. Obviously this is not true. If it were a direct read of the sensor it would display 0 psi. And at idle rail pressure is nowhere near 26,000 psi.
That 26,000 psi reading comes from ECU demanding the rail pressure solenoid to go to max pressure because the ECU can no longer tell what pressure actually is.

This is clue for diagnosing a high pressure fuel system problem. If torquepro displays pressure of 26,000psi at idle, the problem is the pressure sensor or the wiring to the pressure sensor.

DIY ECU Flash

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