DIY ECU Flash

flash7210 · **Posted:** Wed Jun 01, 2016 1:07 pm

Phx flyer wrote:

After thinking about your response, I guess you mean "origional file" ? I used the proceedure of using notepad to identify my oem software contained 808 . So, that is the yeti file type I uploaded. Is this what you mean? I also tried Nicks upload, same results, when I turn the key, nothing happens and fuel gauge reads nothing. Then I upload the origina lWith the origional read oem bin file and the jeep comes back to life & fuel gauge reads full. But I now have the error codes due to fcv and egr tube being blocked. with the original read I get:
VIN# ------------------(actual vin number)
Chrys ecu type' Bosch edc 16C/C2-9.9
Chrys software # 56044562CF
Chrys factory No CA5vu43koxxoo
Bosch ecu version No : RB Cnt_N0CR3K/430C
ECU found on KLine

Given that you have a 2005 model, its more likely that you have a 811.
example: my 811 tune is 1037380811P_39943

Phx flyer · **Joined:** Fri May 27, 2016 10:57 pm **Posts:** 21

just figured it out!! My oem software is 103780811P & I read this as 808 when it is actually 811 code. Just finished a road test, engine lite is off, runs great. Now I hope the MAS dte stays off which was possibly an egr problem. Going back out for a longer test ride. Your response is GREATLY appreciated.

Richard in Phoenix

mass-hole · **Posted:** Thu Jun 02, 2016 11:18 pm

Yeti wrote:

the break point start at 0F4D72 this is water temp in volt but you need a conversion factor , the second break point start at 0F4D82 and this is air temp in fahrenheit /10 and the idle value start at 0F4D8A

:wink:

Yeti, I believe the 8 numbers starting 0f4d72 are actually kelvin*10. You can see one of the numbers is 2731 which would correspond to 0C. The 4 numbers starting at 0f4d82 are the ones that seem strange to me.

My Jeep definitely idles at 760 so it seems to stick to the 980 row. I don't think I have ever seen it idle higher.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

kouik · **Posted:** Fri Jun 03, 2016 5:27 am

mass-hole wrote:

Yeti wrote:

the break point start at 0F4D72 this is water temp in volt but you need a conversion factor , the second break point start at 0F4D82 and this is air temp in fahrenheit /10 and the idle value start at 0F4D8A

:wink:

Yeti, I believe the 8 numbers starting 0f4d72 are actually kelvin*10. You can see one of the numbers is 2731 which would correspond to 0C. The 4 numbers starting at 0f4d82 are the ones that seem strange to me.

My Jeep definitely idles at 760 so it seems to stick to the 980 row. I don't think I have ever seen it idle higher.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

My Jeep idles at 1000rpm on a cold start in the winter (-10c and under) for about 30sec then the rpm works its way down to 760rpm once the engine warms up. This cannot be seen under warmer climate or if the block heater is used.

Yeti · **Posted:** Fri Jun 03, 2016 5:58 am

I have tested the temp with my scan tool and see when the rpm drop with water and air temp 800 900 and 980 correspond to a farenheith /10
the temp is programmed for low degres

in the map 1000 it's the max rpm at cold start in low temp and when the water or air temp .....the first that come in the temp programmed drop the rpm , you can see a fine adjustment for the rpm /temp , I have changed the 700 -800-900-980 break point for lift the temp and increased the rpm at 1200 rpm in cold start ...only in winter

mass-hole · **Posted:** Fri Jun 03, 2016 9:50 am

kouik wrote:

mass-hole wrote:

Yeti wrote:

the break point start at 0F4D72 this is water temp in volt but you need a conversion factor , the second break point start at 0F4D82 and this is air temp in fahrenheit /10 and the idle value start at 0F4D8A

:wink:

Yeti, I believe the 8 numbers starting 0f4d72 are actually kelvin*10. You can see one of the numbers is 2731 which would correspond to 0C. The 4 numbers starting at 0f4d82 are the ones that seem strange to me.

My Jeep definitely idles at 760 so it seems to stick to the 980 row. I don't think I have ever seen it idle higher.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

My Jeep idles at 1000rpm on a cold start in the winter (-10c and under) for about 30sec then the rpm works its way down to 760rpm once the engine warms up. This cannot be seen under warmer climate or if the block heater is used.

That's probably why I haven't noticed. My Jeep was in the garage all winter which never got much below 32 and usually had it plugged in on really cold days.

Sent from my Nexus 6 using Tapatalk

apardo001 · **Posted:** Fri Jun 03, 2016 7:51 pm

This map has a 5 minute timer after every start... why don't we keep conversations about maps on Yeti's topic, he already posted very usefull information there:

http://www.lostjeeps.com/forum/phpBB3/viewtopic.php?f=98&t=83743

:mrgreen:

Yeti · **Posted:** Sat Jun 04, 2016 7:38 am

many thanks :wink:

tim_pato · **Posted:** Wed Jun 08, 2016 3:32 am

Thankyou to all that have contributed to this epic thread (took some reading haha) there are quite a few sellers of the cable on ebay, is safe to use the cheapest one available?http://m.ebay.com.au/itm/MPPS-V13-02-Interface-USB-OBDII-OBD2-For-VW-AUDI-BMW-Mercedes-Ecu-Flasher-16-Pin-/191092861160?nav=SEARCH

Yeti · **Posted:** Wed Jun 08, 2016 9:50 am

the mpps it's a china clone , than do not matter where you buy it , it's always china product

talon64 · **Joined:** Sat Apr 02, 2016 1:27 am **Posts:** 9

Finally got my cord... waited for two months before i bought another one (talk about patience) i'm also a 526, so greybeast and 3D lookin forward to collaborating! i had winols pretty much figured out a while ago, but since lost or drank away that knowledge. Yeti, thanks for the hard work you've been putting in. really helps us! i tried to copy your mild tune over to the 526, if you get a moment care to check it out? hopefully i didnt miss any maps. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/twdc0thik6ws ... nGTCa?dl=0 if that works. ran with it so far, and noticed a bit of extra torque, but like most of us, i don't run my libby too high.

also.. may have been touched on before, but it's been a while since i read this forum through and through. i'm stuck with a CEL, but when scanning for codes, i come up with nothing. did a battery pull, but still nothing. anybody got any ideas?

cheers,

Will

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Jun 09, 2016 9:23 am

Have you had it scanned with a Mopar DRBIII tool? It should tell you what the DTC is.
Also, have you tried the builtin code reader, i.e. turn key on and off three times then leave on and see what codes are given on dash....just a thought. :idea:

Joe Romas · **Posted:** Thu Jun 09, 2016 9:35 am

WWDiesel wrote:

Also, have you tried the builtin code reader, i.e. turn key on and off three times then leave on and see what codes are given on dash....just a thought. :idea:

The built in scan has not worked since a very early Chrysler reflash unless someone has found a way to put it back in :?:

Joe

WWDiesel · **Posted:** Thu Jun 09, 2016 10:35 am

Joe Romas wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

Also, have you tried the builtin code reader, i.e. turn key on and off three times then leave on and see what codes are given on dash....just a thought. :idea:

The built in scan has not worked since a very early Chrysler reflash unless someone has found a way to put it back in :?:

Joe

That is odd, my builtin works perfectly... Still like my OBC had held scanner the best for pulling codes though... :wink:

psCRD · **Posted:** Thu Jun 09, 2016 10:52 am

WWDiesel wrote:

Joe Romas wrote:

WWDiesel wrote:

Also, have you tried the builtin code reader, i.e. turn key on and off three times then leave on and see what codes are given on dash....just a thought. :idea:

The built in scan has not worked since a very early Chrysler reflash unless someone has found a way to put it back in :?:

Joe

That is odd, my builtin works perfectly... Still like my OBC had held scanner the best for pulling codes though... :wink:

I have never been able to do the built-in scan either.

Yeti · **Posted:** Thu Jun 09, 2016 2:14 pm

talon64 wrote:

Finally got my cord... waited for two months before i bought another one (talk about patience) i'm also a 526, so greybeast and 3D lookin forward to collaborating! i had winols pretty much figured out a while ago, but since lost or drank away that knowledge. Yeti, thanks for the hard work you've been putting in. really helps us! i tried to copy your mild tune over to the 526, if you get a moment care to check it out? hopefully i didnt miss any maps. https://www.dropbox.com/sh/twdc0thik6ws ... nGTCa?dl=0 if that works. ran with it so far, and noticed a bit of extra torque, but like most of us, i don't run my libby too high.

also.. may have been touched on before, but it's been a while since i read this forum through and through. i'm stuck with a CEL, but when scanning for codes, i come up with nothing. did a battery pull, but still nothing. anybody got any ideas?

cheers,

Will

there is something wrong in the fcv map , give a stright line , you have not touch the egr Hysteresis , and wrong pressure in the rail system compared on the rail limiter

ps : remember that I can do a custom tune

tim_pato · **Posted:** Fri Jun 10, 2016 10:36 am

Just put of curiosity marco, how much do you charge for a custom tune?

Yeti · **Posted:** Fri Jun 10, 2016 2:34 pm

on private message please

talon64 · **Joined:** Sat Apr 02, 2016 1:27 am **Posts:** 9

I never bothered with the builtin, I'll see what it garners up (if anything). If not, then i'll just reload my original flash, and then try some shenanigans with that to clear the nonexistent code.
Thanks, for the heads up yeti, i'll look into fixing that. if no go, then i'll definitely PM you for a tune.

ACLakey · **Posted:** Wed Jun 15, 2016 10:31 pm

Great post, I recently acquired a 2005 CRD from my uncle with 126,000 miles on it... Loving it. As I read through this thread I am wondering if you need to install a EGR elimination kit or does the flash disable it?

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